Lorenzo: “Alex (Abramov) was fantastic, because when I radioed....

(MountEverest.net) “I had to spend the night on my own on the ridge at approx 8600m due to a frozen eye, and then descend to Camp 3 at first light to 8300m,” Lorenzo Gariano told ExplorersWeb. The climber attempted Everest last year from the North side as a member of the 7 Summits/7 Summits club team.

One year later, Lorenzo is fully recovered and preparing to give Everest another shot. He will join the same team, a joint venture between Dutch Harry Kikstra and Russian Alex Abramov and one of the largest teams on Everest in recent years.

So we checked with Lorenzo - what happened up there last year, really? Why was he alone, and what is it like to climb with the 7-summits outfit?

One mistake cost me the summit

ExWeb: Hi Lorenzo, we`d like to know more about what happened during your summit night. Were you supposed to be guided by 7summits-com? What went wrong on the ridge - why were you left alone? And what happened to your eye?

Lorenzo: “It was my choice to go unsupported and without a Sherpa as I have already summited other 8000m peaks. A small mistake cost me the summit: I decided not to put my goggles on before leaving Camp 3 as the rock above was dark. My right eye consequently started to freeze and I lost vision in it for over 24 hours.”

“I was following other climbers but trailed behind when my vision in that eye went, so when I arrived on the ridge I sought shelter and waited for daylight to come back down on my own. I was very lucky and was pleased to still be very strong and stay focused.”

Alex was great

ExWeb: What is your general opinion about the 7summit outfit, and other commercial outfits on the mountain?

Lorenzo: “Alex (Abramov) was fantastic, because when I radioed in from Camp 2 he sent his strongest Sherpa to come and help me down. He was very relieved and happy I came down OK. I am very pleased with Alex and will be joining him again this year.”

Learn to see around

ExWeb: Harry is coming back this year to lead a blind climber - what`s your take on that?

Lorenzo:“I think Harry needs to take care on this project he has undertaken as it is a double-edged sword, but I am sure his experience from last year and strong Sherpa back-up will prevent any upsets.”

ExWeb: Based on your own experience, what would be your advice to other climbers this year?

Lorenzo: “My advice is that you should go to Everest with a view to enjoy the trip, the surroundings and try to learn something from the beautiful Tibetan people there. Too many westerners go there with the only aim for the summit and their silly egos. They should take more in as they travel through and try and understand the mountain and its people.”

“I think this is why many fail, as they underestimate the powers of nature. I think many commercial outfits should be more ethical and try and get their rich western climbers to appreciate Tibet and its plight more.”

Lorenzo Gariano is attempting Everest from the North col route this spring. He has previously summited Lhotse and several peaks in the Alps such as the Matterhorn. Last year, Lorenzo attempted Everest by the same route, but turned around at approx 8600m due to health (visual) problems. Both in 2005 and this year, Lorenzo will be a member in 7Summits-7Summits-club team.

Russian Alex Abramov, is once again joining forces with Dutch Harry Kikstra – together they are assembling one of the largest Everest teams of the last few years: A total of 30 clients catered to by a staff of 43 people. The team is aiming for the summit of Everest via the North Col route beginning April 1, 2006. Some team members will only climb up to the North Col, others will remain in BC. Among the latter will be Lorenzo`s brother Giuseppe.

Abramov offers a full service trip, but requests his clients be self-sufficient and well trained. Harry Kikstra will climb as a guide for one of his clients: Thomas Weber. Thomas suffers from a sight problem which becomes more acute with altitude. The team has also set up a full-service North Col Base camp with kitchen-tent, dining-tent, cook, kitchen-boy, radio station, electricity, and 2 web-cameras in BC and ABC.