The message from March, 31. Lyudmila Korobeshko.
March, 30-th we climbed the Island Peak. It was not easy, but all under the order. March, 29 we have gone from Chukhung to the base camp of Island Peak. Six person: Tamara has decided to remain because of illness. Nadia has gone with us though also felt quite badly. The base camp is approximately at height of 5000 meters, it approximately 2,5 hours of a way. We had a meal and have gone to bed early. There was a snow in the evening.
As well as planned have risen at one o`clock. Weather was improved, have left at 2. The wind abates, bright stars have appeared. The first part of a way - on a scree. Here and there it was necessary to climb on rocks. About seven we have reached a crest. Here Nadia has decided to turn back. We continue at five, plus our guide Pikej, by a narrow rocky crest which has soon come to the beginning of ice-fall. Here we put on crampons and harness, have roped and go far through snow bridges and cracks. Approximately in one hour we came to an ice wall, degrees seventy, and can be and more. About 200, 250 meters high. If not fix rope – it is difficult to say how we could manage it ! When we have passed the wall, it was only less then hundred meters crest to the summit. At midday we were staying on the highest point: Artem Golovin, Dmitry Kuzin, Valery Moiseenko, Marina Nemirova, Lyudmila Korobeshko, and also our guide Pikej.
Weather has deteriorated even one hour before. A pair of pictures and all - we go downwards. To six p.m. have returned to the camp in darkness and snowfall.
About a route. It appeared much more difficult, than it was expected. Probably, now the way passes more to the right of an old way.
We have now gone down in Dingboche on 4300, we have a rest. Tomorrow the most part of group gathers upwards, on Kala-Patar. Надя and Tamara come back in a civilization.
Best regards !
