Second Team went to the North Col....
Our first team under the leadership of Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov has spent two nights on the North Col, at height of 7100 meters and has made an acclimatization outing to the 7500 meters. The first team, 10 persons, has gone down today in ÀÂÑ camp. Then they have left to the base camp where they were waited by Andrey Selivanov, the doctor of expedition. And the bath. The first team gathers to five-day rest: some - in Jangmu, some – in Tashi Zong, some – in Xegar. Tashi Zong and Xegar are two different cities, at 4200 meters each. Jangmu is a city near the border, at 2700 m. A trip to Jangmu is rather expensive, but is worth to cure a throat completely. High-altitude cough torments the majority of members of expedition. It is normal for such altitude. Even our Sherpas suffer it, 18 from 20 also has cough.
The second team under the leadership of Alexander Abramov, Ludmila Korobeshko and Nikolay Cherny is going to start tomorrow on the North Col, with the same program. That is: spending a night on the Saddle (North Col), climb on 7500-7800 meters, descent to the Saddle, the second night on the North Col and further descent downwards. Today we have a briefing on which we have defined, that the first team gathers in the base camp at 14th of May. Roughly 16th of May they leave in ÀÂÑ already for the final summit attempt. The second team gathers in the base camp 17th of May. They start for a summit attempt at 19th of May. Now there is a fine weather, only one bad thing - every afternoon snow goes, but there is no wind.. Some groups have gone already for a summit attempt. It is a pity a little, that we have not finished acclimatization yet.
We have now established following camps: on North Col – 7100 m (Camp-1), Camp-2 on 7700 m, Camp-3 on 8300 meters. In each of high-altitude camps there are 8 tents and for three sleeping bags in each tent. Though we can place 24 persons in each camp. Camp-1 on the North Col: we have 12 tents, 36 sleeping bags, it is enough place for members, climbing Sherpas, and Sherpas bringing products. It is rather big camp.
Once again I repeat, now the first teams have begun summit attempts. It is possible, that already 11th of May some climbers will achieve the top, the weather favours for it.
We congratulate all with a holiday of the Victory Day !
Àóäèîçàïèñü: http://www.7vershin.ru/010.wav