In general, our expedition is practically prepared for an ascent.
News from 7 Summits Club Everest Expedition. Tibet side. Spring 2005.
May, 5. Alexander Abramov by the phone from the Everest Base Camp.
Greetings from Base Camp!
As expected, weather in the beginning of May always spoils. This year approach of bad weather was late for one week. Under forecasts strong a wind begin with 7th May. And now, there is very strong snow, and in base camp, and in ÀÂÑ. Our Sherpas made only to ascents to the camp 8300 only. And not all planned. Today there was a radio communication, Nikolay Cheny has told, that today Sherpas could not make the way above camp of 7700 meters. Because of a strong snowfall.
In general, our expedition is practically prepared for an ascent. All Members have spent the night on North Col. All have made climb above on a slope up to height of 7500-7700 meters. Syerpas have prepared a camp on North Col: there are 6 tents, 15 sleeping bags. The camp is completely loaded by products, equipment. The camp of 7700 meters, is the second camp, also is provided with all equipment: 5 tents, 15 sleeping bags, products, kitchen facilities etc…..
The assault camp (8300 meters) has prepared still not enough, there are not enough places for installation of tents. I have suspicion, that some expeditions have grasped there more platforms, than it is necessary for them. But in any case, it is necessary for us to put in camp of 8300 meters of 5 tents. We proceed from following tactics of an ascent. We have now 20 members and 13 sherpas, and we plan, that teams of 15 person (9-10 members and 5-6 sherpas) simultaneously could leave on climb.
Tomorrow all participants will go down downwards, in base camp. And further we plan departure downwards, for 4-5 days. On heights up to 4000 meters. Someone will go in Êashize, it to 50 kms from Base Camp. And someone will go down in more comfortable conditions, in 125 kms from camp, in small town Xegar. All of us should gather in base camp May, 11-12. And May, 14-16 we shall rise in ÀÂÑ. There we plan to sit and wait for weather. And as soon as possible, to leave on summit attempt. Our expedition has passed for own middle, all as a whole goes normally.