Now our preparation for Cho Oyu expedition goes well. We have checked up all equipment remained after Everest and have selected all that is necessary for Cho Oyu. Sherpas help very well. In Katmandu there were rains, but to my arrival have practically stopped. It is getting hotter every day.
I have arrived in Katmandu successfully, in Doha, in connection, with absence of places I was placed in business class. Two times, on both changes, I was nearly late aboard the plane as read the most interesting materials of our future book " Seven Summits" which was given me just before a start from Moscow.
Two days prior to my arrival to 3 places in Katmandu terrorists have blown up 3 bombs practically simultaneously. But this time I was not touched.
Today I met Ms. Howley, to testifie... Then I have visited the President of Association of Mountaneering of Nepal of Mr. Ang Tsering. We discussed conditions of Everest expedition for 2008. China has again raised the price on permit for Everest approximately for 1500 dollars.
Our Cho Oyu team arrives tomorrow. I hope to send photos of meeting at the Airport.
1999. Beginning of cooperation.
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Ang Tshering
ExWeb Olympic Everest Summit Report - official word from China/Nepal on 2008 climbing
(MountEverest.net)
In a special report two weeks back, ExWeb wrote that Nepal`s government announced reductions in climbing fees, while China contemplated a raise and also to restrict Everest during the Olympic torch summit push in addition to screening of climbers next spring. Now at last, ExWeb has received official word regarding the situation.
Everest Summit in Lhasa
Last week, Ang Tshering Sherpa, Chairman for Asian Trekking (P) Ltd and President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, flew to Lhasa for a meeting with CMA & CTMA, in an event attended by high level delegates from Beijing and Lhasa.
In an email to ExWeb today, Ang Tshering reports: "I am very glad to say that the event was a great success for all of us in the mountaineering community."
"After a series of meetings with the President and Vice President of the China Mountaineering Association and the General Leader and Deputy General Leader of the Chinese Olympic Everest Expedition, the General Secretary of China Tibet Mountaineering Association and the concerned government bodies and authorities, we were able to make great progress for the future."
No restrictions during summit push - on the South side at least
Getting down to the unofficial reports ExWeb received that China would try to convince Nepal to help restrict the peak from both sides during the Olympic torch climbers` summit push, Ang Tshering writes:
"First of all, there are many rumors circulating in our national and international media that Mt. Everest will be closed to climb from the Tibet side. These rumors are false. China will also not limit the number of expeditions in 2008."
"The Olympic team has not yet given any indication or mention regarding the restriction of climbing during their summit push from the North Side. We will have to wait for them to make an official decision on this matter. However, there is no restriction on the south side."
Screening of climbers
About screening of climbers, Ang Tshering reported:
"However, their major concern is that their Olympic expedition runs smoothly, safely and with no problems. To ensure that this will be the case they will be strictly vetting each and every expedition so that they will only have `quality` expeditions." According to Ang Tshering, following three main criteria was required by China for expeditions to fulfill if they want to climb Everest from the Tibet side in 2008:
1. All members of an expedition have to be the same nationality.
2. All documentation and confirmation of expedition has to be sent at least two and a half months in advance.
3. Only well organized, well supported and fully equipped teams will be allowed to climb.
A major blow to teams supported by Nepali Sherpas, the news was however revised in a later mail today:
"Since then [the previous report], I have been putting your requests and suggestions forward to CTMA and we have only just received great news. They are now willing to accept up to 3 nationalities per expedition including Nepali staff."
Transparency
At the meeting, Ang Tshering also put forward the growing problem of safety and security (theft) on the mountain. "CTMA has agreed to take stern action against any individual or group found to be involved in theft or misconduct," he reports.
"They are now working out how to implement this. It is very likely that they will install extra Liaison officers at Advanced Base Camp. NMA and the concerned Nepali authorities fully support this move. I hope this will finally solve this ugly and embarrassing problem."
During the summit, a special banquet was held in honor of Asian Trekking and NMA, hosted by the vice chairman of Tibet autonomous government. As Asian Trekking is the official GSA for CTMA, the agency asked Ang Tshering to be their mouthpiece; and forward any news and updates regarding mountaineering in Tibet and China.
"It will be my great pleasure and privilege to keep the mountaineering community informed," Ang Tshering ends his email, stating that both organizations will now work close together to effectively and efficiently exchange and provide information.
Climbers: Help the movement for lower climbing fees!
Instrumental in the quest for lower climbing fees (and not just on Everest), and an active member of the Royalty Revision Committee formed by the Nepal Government at NMA`s recommendation, Ang Tshering says that the tourism situation in Nepal is now much improved, with lots of enquiries and bookings.
But the mountaineering side still needs a boost. Nepal is starting to realize that the country`s climbing fees are still too high compared to China and Pakistan. Climbers wishing for the fees to be lowered should therefore soonest email Ang Tshering Sherpa and/or NMA stating their reasons and support of the current campaign (emails below).
The honorary banquet was hosted by the vice chairman of Tibet autonomous government; the General Secretary of Tibet Autonomous Government; the Director General of the Sports Commission of Tibet Autonomous Region; the Director General of the Sports Commission of Tibet Autonomous Region and acting president of CTMA; and other government officials.
"At this event CTMA organized a special felicitation program to honor our long standing friendship. I am very proud to receive that honor," Ang Tshering wrote. Asian Trekking sponsored one of the early Chinese/Tibetan expeditions (Lhotse) and outfitted their expeditions to Annapurna, Daulagiri, Manaslu, Kangchenjunga and Makalu in Nepal.
