Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club of 2006 was led by Alexander Abramov. In General, the results of the 2005 expedition were rather positive. And this became a good basis for assembling a large expedition for the next year. A ...
Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club of 2006 was led by Alexander Abramov. In General, the results of the 2005 expedition were rather positive. And this became a good basis for assembling a large expedition for the next year. A competitive price and a good level of service helped attract new customers from all over the world. Dutch Harry Kikstra (7summits.com), who realized his dream of reaching the summit in 2005, did not lose enthusiasm and joined several projects at once. All this made it possible to assemble a truly gigantic expedition: 28 members, six guides and a doctor who is going to climb. At the same time, foreigners made up the absolute majority - 23 people plus 4 as video crews.
- Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader, Everest Summiter, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)
- Nikolay Cherny, Russia (guide, co-leader, Everest Summiter, 6 other 8-thousenders)
- Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, Everest summiter)
- Harry Kikstra, the Netherlands ( guide and co-leader, Everest summiter)
- Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiter)
- Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)
- Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)
- Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)
- Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)
- Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)
List of expedition members:
Lande Vladimir Russia
Rozhkov Ilya Russia
Ryzhenko Arkadiy Russia
Plyushkin Igor Russia
Pushkarev Vladimir Russia
Lorenzo Gariano UK
Kirk Wheatley UK
David A. Lien USA
Ron Morrow USA
William Hazelton Tyler III USA
Slate Stern USA
Ronald Kevin Muhl South African
Noel Richmond Hanna UK
Petter Kragset Norway
Torbjørn Orkelbog Norway
Henrik Andre Olsen Denmark Johnny Brevik Norway
Thomas Weber (blind climber) Germany
Vince Bousselaire USA
Richard Harris Australian
Christopher Harris (son) Australian
Michael Charles Dillon Australian
Lincoln Ross Hall Australian
John Delaney Ireland
Frode Høgset Norway
Barbara Tyler USA
Patrick Hugh Flynn Ireland
Gariano Giuseppe Italian
6 kitchen boys
Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)
Expedition start date : April 10
Expedition end date : June 10
18th of May. Ludmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov from АВС, 6400м.
The main event of last days: Vladimir Lande successfully summited Everest - May, 15 at 9.00. He has spent, from 8300 up to the top, about 6 hours, very good time. Vladimir climbed together with Nima Sherpa, then they have successfully gone down. Yesterday (May, 17), Vladimir has left for Katmandu by an evening jeep. Two days before our senior guide Nikolay Cherny and climber Vladimir Pushkarev have left expedition through illness.
Yesterday May, 17, all first group has gathered in АВС. Abramov, Kofanov and Коrobeshko have decided, that they are the cleverest, and came in АВС not for 2 days, as all normal people, but for one. As a result, Kofanov is very tired, Ludmila is simply exhausted. Only for Alex Abramov it is good, he feels most better.
Yesterday at supper, we have together celebrated the national holiday of Norway - Day of Independence. After supper Alex Abramov has lead a briefing. He addressed to the group leaving upward, once again told about dangers of Everest. Except for that, all people checked and put on masks, reducers, oxygen cylinders. It was cheerful.
Now in the morning, we go for breakfast. After it the first group –
Ilya Rozhkov, Russia
Arkadiy Ryzhenko, Russia
Igor Plyushkin, Russia
Lorenzo Gariano, UK
Kirk Wheatley, UK
David A. Lien, USA
Slate Stern, USA
Ronald Kevin Muhl, South African
Noel Richmond Hanna, UK
Petter Kragset, Norway
Henrik Andre Olsen, Denmark
Johnny Brevik, Norway
with guides Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov leave on the North Cole. And further under the plan of an ascent. Weather forecast is quite favorable now, on the nearest days 5-6.
Today May, 21, at 8 a.m. Tibet time ( 4 a.m. on Moscow ) the first climbers from our expedition have reached the summit of Everest. There were a guide Sergey Kofanov (Russia), sirdar Mingma Gelu Sherpa (it is his 6 ascents), 3 more Sherpas. Slate Stern (USA), Henrik Olsen (Denmark), Arcady Ryzhenko (Russia) and 2 more Sherpas have summited after them a bit later.
At 10.00 Igor Svergun (a guide of expedition from Ukraine) has transferred by a portable radio set, that he is on the summit, together with Noel Hanna (Ireland), Kirk Weatley (England) and Lorenzo Gariano (UK - Italy) and 2 more Sherpas have joined them soon. In total we have 16 summiters today. Now all members and guides go down. The weather is rather good, but the wind is more strong as in the morning.
In АВС all did not sleep since seven mornings - we were on communication with climbers. A summit attempt began at midnight. Thus, the first climbers came on the top for 8 hours. Before breakfast all of us by turns looked in a telescope at a summit triangle where rather precisely we saw all ours climbers.
For breakfast Simone Moro has come to us on a visit. He has congratulated our team on success. Only yesterday he has made a traverse from the South through the summit of Everest and has gone down to the North. For now he has decided to live in our camp and gives interview about his feats with pleasure.
Norwegian Vikings Peter Kragset and Johni Brevik, and also David Lien yesterday have gone down in АВС from the height of 8000 m. On a portable radio set guides have informed also, that three more members who have left today on attempt - Igor Plushkin, Ilya Rozhkov and Ronni Muhl have reached the height about 8700 m.
Now the second group leaves upward from АВС. These are four Australians: Chris - 15-years climber, his father Richard, 2 more operators - Lincoln and Michael, and also Harry Kikstra and Тhomas Weber (blind climber), Alex Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. So, taking into account ascents of Vladimir Lande and Nima Sherpa, we have 18 persons have risen the summit of Everest on our expedition now.
From Harry’s blog: Sunday, May 21. 2006
we have been watching the team all morning, here is the first unofficial 7summits update. Mingma Gelu & Sergey K summited quite early as planned and waited for the rest of the clients. Apparently Slate Stern summited soon after and was going down quickly after, in good speed. Henrik Olsen also summited in good time and finished his 7 summits!
Ilya was having problems at the 3rd step and sat there for a long time, but our team is bringing him down now.
Noel summited about 25 minutes ago and is now going down and just a few minutes ago, at the end of our maximum time allowed, Lorenzo arrived at the summit, where our guide Igor Svergun was waiting for him, they will be coming down now and will be taking everybody they meet on the way. More Sherpas have summited as well, names to follow later.
Ronnie Muhl is now at the 2nd step, so we will have to take him down as he is going too slow to go for the summit safely, just as Igor Plushkin. At the moment we are not sure if Kirk summited or not, but so far everybody is safe and in good hands and we will make sure that all members and sherpas come down together. Maybe more later, we will be leaving with team B soon.
Alex Abramov report:
May, 21 the first group of climbers, 20 person (9 members, 2 guides and 9 high-altitude porters) makes an attempt to reach the summit of Everest. Climbers have left camp at height of 8300 meters in midnight. All group used artificial oxygen during the ascent. By 10 a.m. 16 persons have reached the top of Everest. The others 4 climbers have reached heights 8600 - 8700 meters, among them was Igor Plyushkin from Krasnodar. At 10:30 all team, all 20 persons started to descent to the camp 3. At 3 p.m. all team was already down in camp of 8300 meters. The weather was good. Sherpas have prepared tea and climbers had a rest for two hours. Then all team has gone down (still using oxygen) for spending night in the camp 2 at 7800 meters, on more safe altitude. So day May, 21 was finished.
May, 22 in the morning after breakfast at 12 a.m., the team was ready to start for descent from camp of 7800 meters downwards to the North Col (7000 meters). Igor Plyushkin has passed 15 meters from his tent and has felt badly. He has addressed to guides for help, complaining on lack of oxygen and difficulty at breath. Thus he moved with use of oxygen equipment. The increase of submission of oxygen from two to four litres in minute has not helped. Injections have not helped also, struggle for life proceeded one and a half hour. Unfortunately, Igor`s condition thus essentially was not improved. At 13:45 guides were forced to verify death. The body was solved to leave at height of 7800 meters. Guides have photographed it, have closed by sleeping bags and have covered by stones. At 7 p.m. all team was down in advanced base camp ABC, on height of 6400 meters.
Igor Plyushkin, 54 year, was a skilled climber, had climbed all 7000meters summits of the former USSR. (Snow leopard)
I also want to tell about events of May, 21-22 which occured not in area of summit and second camp. May, 21 the second group planned an exit for the North Col. There were 4 Australian climbers, and among them father and son, Richard and Christopher Harris. From the first steps from АВС the son, Chris now 15 years old, has felt badly. He had a collapse, that is sharp pressure drop, and all group has returned to camp. We have taken the appropriate measures: the guy has spent with a mask about one hour, his pressure was normalized. Later the Australian team made decision to try once again.
In the morning May, 22 after first 300 meters, Chris has felt very badly again. After that we have finally made decision to refuse an ascent. In camp ABC we have again carried out medical actions, Chris was filling better. Tomorrow they will go down in base camp. Also in this day when above guides struggled for Igor`s life, Sergey Chistiakov in camp ABC has felt badly. We also have connected the oxygen equipment. When he has felt better, he has on gone downwards, into middle camp. So May, 22 was for us a fatal day. At once several persons were ill. Now, we hope, that Sergey is already out of danger, as well as Chris. Everest expedition is very heavy business and an organism of many people simply does not maintain long loading. Now only Harry Kikstra, Тhomas Weber and strongest of Australians Lincoln Hall continue an ascent.
18:30 Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.
21 – 25th of May good weather kept on the Everest, the wind was very weak. May, 25 in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Тhomas Weber (Germany), guide Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has left camp of 8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen as about 20 superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and three Sherpas has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed about his success on a portable radio set.
At 9:15 Harry Kikstra has informed, that Томас Weber, a climber with weakened sight, has completely lost sight. For this reason, traverse on rocks to the top at height of 8800 meters he considered practically impossible. Having conferred, Тhomas, Harry and two Sherpas have begun descent at 9:30 a.m., only 50 meters from the summit on height. At 10:00 Lincoln Hall has reached on descent a snow triangle, at height of 8800 meters. And at this moment Sherpas have transferred, that Lincoln started to move downwards very bad, coordination was lost. At 10:30 Lincoln has lain on snow and could not go down independently any more. Sherpas have begun rescue works. To the aid we have sent two more Sherpas from camp ABC with oxygen. They should bring additional oxygen, drink etc ….
Unexpectedly at 12:20, Harry Kikstra has informed that he is with Тhomas and to two Sherpas at a level of the Second step, height of 8700 meters. And that Тhomas has a collapse, Томас has told only: « I have died » and have lost consciousness. At 12:40 the death was verified . Harry has sent one of Sherpas upward to the aid of transportation of Lincoln. Then he has gone downwards with the second Sherpas. From 9:30 till 19:20 , almost 9 hours, four шерпов tried to get Lincoln lower. A crest here is very complicated technically and in condition of Lincoln it was possible to lower him for 9 hours on 300-400 meters on a crest. Sherpas could lower him from the Second step on height of 8700 meters. During descent Lincoln two times talked on a portable radio set to friends. Conversations were addle, there was an obvious loss of orientation in time and space. After 5 p.m. Lincoln has ceased to reply. Movements have got chaotic character. Sherpas continued attempts to move Lincoln along a crest, but at 19:20 the death was verified. The probable reason: brain cerebral edema, pulmonary edema . Now 21:30, Sherpas have gone down from a crest in camp 8300м, they are outside of danger though have got awfully tired. Harry Kikstra is in camp on 7000 m on North Col.
Conclusions: in season of 2006 on Everest the record amount of climbers, under our information - 15 person was lost. Strangely enough, the reason of it became extremely good, windless weather. This unnatural weather for Everest proceeded from May, 10 till May, 25. This weather has allowed a plenty of climbers to reach the summit. In more severe conditions, they, probably, would stop climb at lower heights. The summit became a trap for climbers with the latent problems of health
News about Lincoln Hall.
May, 25 at 19:20 Sherpas have stopped the rescue operation proceeding more of 9 hours at height about 8700 meters. They have verified the fact of death of Lincoln Hall, on the basis of that from 17:00 till 19:20 he did not submit any attributes of life. Five Sherpas, completely exhausted, have gone down in darkness in camp 8300.
In the morning May, 26 at 7 in the morning, Dan Mazur, which was climbing with group of clients, has informed, he is near Lincoln Hall. Lincoln was motionless, but submitted weak attributes of life. Immediately 13 Sherpas, spending night on North Col (7000 meters) were sent for realization of rescue operations on height of 8700 meters. The same task was put to five Sherpas which stay in camp 8300 . Unfortunately, two of them have lost sight yesterday and required help. Thus, approximately by 11 a.m. three Sherpas with tea, oxygen and medicines have reached Lincoln. After plentiful drink and reception of medicines, Lincoln started to talk, though speech of him was untied and he could not move independently . Not waiting arrival of the basic group, three Sherpas have started to move him on a crest. Now they could move him on 50 meters on a difficult rocky site. Now the second group of eight Sherpas with all necessary came for help. If weather will allow, rescue operations will proceed all night. Thank for the help and support to Dan Mazur, Russell Brice and Jamie MacGinnes.
At ten in the evening on local time Lincoln Hall and Sherpas accompanying him have gone down in camp on North Col (7000м). Yes! Lincoln Hall has passed without assistance the whole snow slope, from 7500 m! In camp on the Saddle doctor Andrey Selivanov met him and led to a dining tent, which is now as a field hospital. As he said, the first problems of Lincoln is an acute psychosis, a disorientation in space, also he shows resistance accompanying and now to the doctor. First of all it will be necessary to calm him. The reason – an acute edema of a brain and hypoxia. The doctor have examined his hands – frostbitten 2-3 degrees. Legs to the moment of communication were not examined yet. On a question on prospects Andrey has told: « We shall overcome ! ». Now Lincoln is in heat, in spacious tent with electric illumination, 10 person are engaged in his service. Descent in АВС is planned for tomorrow`s morning, but not early, when there will be a sun and will become warmer.
Under last message, for today (23:00 local time), Lincoln Hall has fallen asleep in warm tent in camp on North Col. Necessary and possible (in this place) medical aid was rendered to him.
News from 7Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alexander Abramov
May 27 at 12.30 Chinese time rescue team of 10 Sherpa and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov descended from the North Col. They delivered Lincoln Hall to ABC. Lincoln was able to walk on his own. During the whole previous night Lincoln was sleeping on oxygen on the North Col.
As soon as he arrived in ABC Lincoln was given new portion of medical care. Brain edaema is practically gone now. He regained adequate perception of reality. Lincoln made a telephone call to his wife Barbara. He told her that he has bad frostbites of his fingers. Barbara answered that she would love him all the same even if he would loose all his fingers. In two days Lincoln is planning to go down to BC and then depart for Katmandu and Australia.
Big thanks to Sherpas of 7 Summits Club and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov, who at risk for their own lives conducted unique rescue operation on Everest. During several last years there was no team able to descend an unmoving body from the altitude of 8800m
KATHMANDU, Nepal, May 29 (UPI) -- Lincoln Hall, the Australian climber who survived a night in the open near the summit of Mount Everest, left base camp Monday in the back of a jeep. He was expected to arrive in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, on Tuesday, and could return to Sydney in a few days after further medical treatment, the Daily Telegraph reported.
Hall collapsed last Thursday as he descended from the summit. His teammates decided he was beyond help, but a U.S. climber found him still alive the next day and his team sent a group up from the North Col to bring him down.
"He does realize he has been very, very lucky, surprisingly lucky," Jamie McGuiness, another climber, told The Daily Telegraph from Everest Base Camp. "He was very close to death, but he wasn`t actually dead and he came around."
Hall was suffering from pneumonia and frostbite and could lose some of his extremities to amputation.
In 2018, 100% of members and guides of the expedition of the 7 Summit Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. It is 59 PAX: 26 mountain climbers, 20 members (19 Russians and 1 Polish), 6 ...
In 2018, 100% of members and guides of the expedition of the 7 Summit Club successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest. It is 59 PAX: 26 mountain climbers, 20 members (19 Russians and 1 Polish), 6 Russian guides and 33 Sherpas.
No one was injured or frostbite. This is the result of fifteen years of experience in organizing expeditions on Everest and other eight-thousanders by the 7 Summit Club, Alexander Abramov, his team of guides and Sherpas.
Our record achievements
Lhakpa Sherpa is 9 times at the top, a world achievement among women.
Alexander Abramov - 9th ascent.
Dmitry Tertychnyy is 17 years old, the youngest Russian.
Ksenia Samarina is 26 years old, the youngest Russian woman.
Alexander and Dmitry Tertychnyy, and first family ascent of father + son in Russia.
Two married couples on top of Everest in one day (possibly a world achievement):
Igor Demyanenko - Jamilya Murtazina
Airat Yunusov - Zemfira Yunusova.
Maxim Shakirov - 3rd time
Karina Mezova, Dmitry Ermakov, Vladimir Kotlyar, Andrey Mariev and Igor Demyanenko - the 2nd time.
Ivan Lukasevich. Himalayas – the Russian way. Super-photos from trekking to the base camp of Everest (Nepal)
Trekking to Everest base camp – what could be simpler? Well, what is there to write? What are the secrets to open in the space, trampled by millions of feet? What unprecedented to put photos of the places where all views ...
Trekking to Everest base camp – what could be simpler? Well, what is there to write? What are the secrets to open in the space, trampled by millions of feet? What unprecedented to put photos of the places where all views captured thousands of times? Yes, winter conditions make this route more freely, and instead of a great number of tourists on the trails there are separate groups. The weather becoming clearer, the air more transparent, the mercury in the thermometer shrinks and creeps down, but the essence consists in the fact that it is the most popular and isogeny route in the Himalayas, remains the same.
For me, this was the fifth trekking in the Himalayas. I have to admit that the grandiose types I've had the opportunity to see other parts of Nepal, though a gigantic wall of Lhotse-Nuptse live makes a lasting impression, despite the fact that its outlines painfully familiar after hundreds a long time before-seen photos. And the view from Kalapathar is also amazing. We were surprised by the weather, presenting a myriad of crystal clear days without a cloud in the sky day and night. Of course, not without snow, which, it seems, wore an official event, purely for show and filling the statistics of precipitation, which in January, although minimal, but still not zero…
Further in Russian
The 7 Summits Club organizes every year climbing programs to the highest volcano of the planet Ojos del Salado. An expedition in January 2017 did not promise to become something out of the ordinary, but nevertheless, for its ...
The 7 Summits Club organizes every year climbing programs to the highest volcano of the planet Ojos del Salado. An expedition in January 2017 did not promise to become something out of the ordinary, but nevertheless, for its participants it was unexpectedly extreme. But at the same time, it was very fun and very athletic. The group could not reach the top, but received a lot of emotions and impressions .... Photos of Igor and Natalia Smirnov’s
Climbing Breithorn in good weather - it is a pleasant walk along the snowy slopes with simple skills of climbing to an altitude of 4165 meters. At this time, the weather is promised no surprises, except pleasant. The sun was shining, there ...
Climbing Breithorn in good weather - it is a pleasant walk along the snowy slopes with simple skills of climbing to an altitude of 4165 meters.
At this time, the weather is promised no surprises, except pleasant. The sun was shining, there was no wind, the trail to the summit was carefully trodden by numerous climbers, who left early in the morning.
The ascent took place in late September in the framework of the Alpine trek on the way the Russian army under the command of Alexander Suvorov in 1799.
Nadejda Usovich participated in the expedition to the Lenin peak in early August. The expedition did not achieve its main goal. Due to bad weather conditions the climbers returned home without the summit. Instead, they got a lot of ...
Nadejda Usovich participated in the expedition to the Lenin peak in early August. The expedition did not achieve its main goal. Due to bad weather conditions the climbers returned home without the summit. Instead, they got a lot of impressions and experience of high-altitude climbing…
From her diary…
All night the wind was blowing and it was snowing. Since the hour of the night, groups woke up one by one, exchanging a few words, and, obviously, delayed outing, the weather was bad. By 5 am a group of St. Petersburg climbers ventured to go to the assault, but they have not succeeded to reach the top in this day. There was a strong wind swept up the entire trail all the way and they had to make snow trails knee that takes a lot of strength. Other groups have postponed exit at night. By 7 am established fine weather, the sun was shining and it was even more or less heat. I slept most of the day, compensating for a sleepless night. By 7 pm the weather began to deteriorate again.
All night the wind blew a hellish and snowing. At times it seemed that the tent will take, as the house of Elli. Again, starting with the one in the morning, here and there flashing lights, there were heard a short dialogues and all subsided. I rearranged the alarm for an hour before 5am. Two my halves fought, one wished that the wind abated, and with peace of mind to go down. Another eagerly prayed to the wind ceased, and we finally came to the assault.
We came out of the tent at 5 am, still a strong wind blew, but the snow had stopped, the view of Peak Lenin was excellent. The clouds were under our feet, and on the horizon, a thin strip of scarlet doing amazing beauty of the sunrise. I noted that some of the tents for the night drifted almost completely. At an altitude somewhere in 6300 could be seen three flashlight, nevertheless there were brave souls who dared to go out today to the assault. As it turned out later, they returned to the camp as early as 10 am, much frostbited.
The forecast for the next 2 days were given the deterioration, sit next to an altitude of 6100 does not make any sense, and it was decided to begin the descent at 8am. The entire inside of the tent was covered with frost and any awkward movement, with its walls, attacked snowfall. All things were damp, at the feet of piled up a snowdrift. Several tents of our group had to dig out from the outside. It was bitterly cold, while a fixing crampons in fleece gloves, I froze all the.
All members of the group to the question «how are you?» - answered “never again”.
Down we ran almost happily. In camp 2 it was very warm and we stayed there for almost an hour, basking in the sun. This camp offers a great view on the top, I looked up to see around the ridge huge flags - the wind raged there until now, it was clear that to come in that day to the summit would be impossible, would there blew us away like dry leaves from the tin roof. By 3 pm we were down to camp 1, the descent took place without incident, though it was slow and tiring. By 5 pm again it threw the snow, but here, in a huge tent, its knock on the tent even gave some sense of comfort…
Leh was the capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, now the Leh district in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Leh district, with an area of 45,110 km2, is the second largest district in the country, after Kutch, Gujarat (in ...
Leh was the capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, now the Leh district in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Leh district, with an area of 45,110 km2, is the second largest district in the country, after Kutch, Gujarat (in terms of area). The town is dominated by the ruined Leh Palace, the former mansion of the royal family of Ladakh, built in the same style and about the same time as the Potala Palace-the chief residence of the Dalai Lama until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to Dharamsala, India, during the 1959 Tibetan uprising. Leh is at an altitude of 3524 metres (11,562 ft), and connects via National Highway 1D to Srinagar in the southwest and to Manali in the south via the Leh-Manali Highway
As agreed the previous evening, at two o'clock in the morning we were going to have breakfast and go on a long journey. Slowly tossing in a sleeping bag, I tried to delay the moment of lifting the stern. But when he heard the ...
As agreed the previous evening, at two o'clock in the morning we were going to have breakfast and go on a long journey.
Slowly tossing in a sleeping bag, I tried to delay the moment of lifting the stern. But when he heard the talk and cheerful tinkle of gear members of the expedition, I was forced to accelerate.
The sky was covered with stars, and there were no signs of surprises.
Christina finally got sick. She crawled out of the tent, but listlessly wandered around the bush, periodically asking me whether to go to her at the top.
Those who could, had breakfast. Christine was able to have breakfast. But later she took a heroic decision not to go to the summit.
Но поалев очень эпизодически, так и рассосался в ровное светлое небо.
В целом все было бы ничего. Кроме двух мелких деталей.
Во-первых, погода не обещала ничего хорошего и не давала расслабляться.
Ну и еще. Идя первым, тропя дорогу в снегу, Пемба просто выбивался из сил. Сначала он шел достаточно бодро, но потом все чаще начал останавливаться. Два шага - остановка, два шага - остановка.
Tatiana Yalovchak climbed Mount Everest in the team of the 7 Summits Club. She reached the summit with one of the symbols of Ukraine – an embroidered towel. "I am happy that I brought the rushnyk with me. Our symbol of strength, ...
Tatiana Yalovchak climbed Mount Everest in the team of the 7 Summits Club. She reached the summit with one of the symbols of Ukraine – an embroidered towel.
"I am happy that I brought the rushnyk with me. Our symbol of strength, goodness, beauty and peace And a part of my soul with him. Hope for prosperity and peace in Ukraine"
We want to note that during New Year period (mid Dec 2015 to mid January 2016) 9 groups with a total of 39 people climbed on Kilimanjaro with the "7 Summits Club". Group climbed from different sides of the volcano, by the route ...
Article in Russian ... As a result, I was not able to reach the top missing a couple of hundred meters.. I did everything I could, and even more. I resisted to the last, and climbed higher and higher. But, alas! In the end, leaving only the ...
As a result, I was not able to reach the top missing a couple of hundred meters.. I did everything I could, and even more. I resisted to the last, and climbed higher and higher. But, alas! In the end, leaving only the desire and the will, but no forces. I could not take a step up. I had to climb down from a height somewhere 6700 meters, after admiring the amazingly beautiful surrounding countryside from this height panorama…
Once we settled in the loggia, it started to rain. Rain went to the darkness and midnight. All around it was wrapped up in mist, so that come true what was promised by all our predecessors. They said that we will go in the sputum, in ...
Once we settled in the loggia, it started to rain. Rain went to the darkness and midnight. All around it was wrapped up in mist, so that come true what was promised by all our predecessors. They said that we will go in the sputum, in swamps, trembling dank. In the morning, it was announced earlier (5 a.m.) wakey. There was no rain. Looking ahead, I will say in that day it did not start, it started only with the following darkness.
By the way, the loggia, where we settled (name Magic Lodge) was quite a good quality. Stilt house for two people, electricity, toilets in each, hot water, clean linen, warm blankets (important! - 12 degrees in the night), great food from a local chef, a lot of fruit.
In the morning we got into jeeps and drove an hour to the village of Malka at an altitude somewhere in 2550 m. There we met porters of 14 people (2 for each person). Local guide Luke came with us, he was from the village of Paya. The porters were divided exactly in half on bare and shod.
We distribute the goods and went. On this day our guide Olga Rumyantsev promised us 7:00 grueling transition. First, a bit along the fields, and then we went into impassable jungle…
About four hours later we were on the barely visible path, climbing over fallen tree trunks and forced his way through the bushes. Sometimes porters had to work a machete. One of the locals are periodically read to us a short lecture on the local flora (fauna there is miserable).
The first big rest we did after four hours of walk, came out of the woods on an alpine meadow. By the way we have risen about a thousand meters. The mood was good: More three hours at an open area with a small rise - and we are in the camp. But three hours later accompanied us Papuans showed no indication that we will soon stop. And our forces were calculated at the end. I asked - where? And I get the answer: three hours. Maybe a mistake? We are waiting for Luke to ask again, but he confirmed. It came as a surprise even to Olga Rumyantseva. And Luke said that, first, it will be a normal place for the camp not earlier than three hours, and secondly, that place is convenient because is close to the top.
We go further, angry and knackered, knowing that he was right. Around the swamp, there is no place to put the tent. Someone tries to joke, they say, the Papuans have no watches there, so their concept of time is extensible. Not fair. Papuans were very punctual (told breakfast would be at 6:30 - and it was), and the sense of time they have correct. As a result, the very first of us did go three hours. And the latest (this, of course, I) – at all four. All this time we walked by a long ridge at an altitude of approximately 3800-4000 meters, the trail first rose 50-100 m, then fell and rose again.
At the end of such difficulty we lost scored meters, going down at 300 meters to the river and the forest, where there really was a clearing suitable for the camp. An hour went to make a campsite. …. I was upset by my tent and laid down to sleep on an empty stomach, I only drink.
The morning we caught when we were still on the side of the mount of Belukha. So carefully, step by step we have four hours reached the crest of the mountain. The top was at hand, we need only one last spurt. The guys who went before, ...
The morning we caught when we were still on the side of the mount of Belukha. So carefully, step by step we have four hours reached the crest of the mountain. The top was at hand, we need only one last spurt. The guys who went before, managed to fix the ropes, so it was already easier. Securing on the railing of a Jumar, we began to rise in turn, had one last leap to the top. Finally, after five hours of hard work on the side, we went to the top. That’s All! Another victory over myself, we have the height!
The top met us prickly, cold, biting wind, but it did not matter, we have not noticed, we were happy, congratulating each other and from the summit welcomed the rest of the group that came to the top. Chronicled his ascent to the camera, the moment came when I had to say goodbye to the summit
The spring - ерц best time for travel to South Korea, at this time everything blossoms, the nature wakens, the feeling of a holiday is created. However, regardless of a season this remarkable country will leave nobody indifferent. You will ...
The spring - ерц best time for travel to South Korea, at this time everything blossoms, the nature wakens, the feeling of a holiday is created.
However, regardless of a season this remarkable country will leave nobody indifferent. You will see the surprising nature, ancient monuments (In South Korea more than 10 monuments of world heritage of UNESCO are), you will try exotic dishes of local cookery.
And, above all – you will get acquainted with hospitality of people who are always glad to guests.
Koreans are very emotional and dynamic. It is fascinating and interesting to communicate with them.
It was a very strange expedition. And all strangles were negative. Firstly, I would call it inhuman experiments on human beings. But as the people themselves consciously went for it, so the experiment itself is quite humane. The problem was ...
It was a very strange expedition. And all strangles were negative.
Firstly, I would call it inhuman experiments on human beings. But as the people themselves consciously went for it, so the experiment itself is quite humane.
The problem was - to ascend the mountain of the height of more than 5000 meters in three days - it is, in principle, not very sensible idea. Especially it looks questionable, given that participants were no athletes and never climbed any mounytain before. And of course with acclimatization. Just normal office people. Some of them even never seen mountains.
Secondly, I never went to the mountains with plaster.
In general, it is even more doubtful event turned out to be quite feasible. Although the guide with plaster - it looks at least strange….
Tashi Tenzing, multiple climber of Mount Everest, the youngest son of Pem Pem, the eldest daughter of the great Tenzing Norgey. November 30th he will be 50 years old! The date worthy to tell the history of his life, continuing the great ...
Tashi Tenzing, multiple climber of Mount Everest, the youngest son of Pem Pem, the eldest daughter of the great Tenzing Norgey. November 30th he will be 50 years old! The date worthy to tell the history of his life, continuing the great generation of Tenzing.
"The famous GRANDPA of our hero was born in the highlands of the Khumbu in Nepal. Later, as an adult, he moved to Darjeeling (India). It is likely that in fact he was born in Tibet. After birth, was named Namgyal Wangdi. Then, on the advice of Lama was named by parents as Tenzing Norgay, which means "happy wealthy supporter of religion." He did not attach much importance to his exact age, proper names and their transcription (Sherpas at the time did not use written and accurate calendar in the home). Date of birth he defined approximately, according to the memoirs of mother about the weather and the harvest. "
Best pictures from Kilimanjaro expedition. A report from 7 Summits Club climber from 1-8th February expedition on Kilimanjaro:
Best pictures from Kilimanjaro expedition. A report from 7 Summits Club climber from 1-8th February expedition on Kilimanjaro:
A Dagestan climber in the group of 7 Summits Club took part in the attempt to climb to the top of Mont Blanc. Guide - Denis Provalov. Due to inclement weather, the group did not reach the summit. However, all participants were grateful for ...
A Dagestan climber in the group of 7 Summits Club took part in the attempt to climb to the top of Mont Blanc. Guide - Denis Provalov. Due to inclement weather, the group did not reach the summit. However, all participants were grateful for an interesting journey.
Members of thr 7 Summits Club Natalia and Igor Smirnov climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in november of 2013 by Machame route. ...
Members of thr 7 Summits Club Natalia and Igor Smirnov climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in november of 2013 by Machame route.
Chile – it is an amazing country of 1000 volcanoes and thousands of lakes, glaciers and deserts... In Chile, there is 15 regions, all lovely and picturesque. Today I want to show you just one - Atacama ... Often travelers, who come to ...
Chile – it is an amazing country of 1000 volcanoes and thousands of lakes, glaciers and deserts... In Chile, there is 15 regions, all lovely and picturesque. Today I want to show you just one - Atacama ...
Often travelers, who come to climb Ojos, in a hurry do not have time to see this beauty.
Well, now a few words about the ascent ofOjos del Salado.... It's time ...
No special difficulties, most importantly, as always - be lucky with the weather. Well, no need to rush - 7000 meters yet – a need of acclimatization has not been canceled ...
I had hoped to acclimatize on Orizaba, but between the two mountains I got 14 days. A lot, too many. But I could not resist and tried to start climb on top of Ojos immediately after arrival. I had a luck, but... not right!
We had a picnic with a guide Mario first right into the crater, well then moved to the top, in total spending on the summit more than three hours. Good weather and lack of wind contributed to this. But in the end, the desire to go down to the restaurant and wash out to sea and had overpowered ...
Oh yes, our car was not able to climb up to 5800 meters, so we lugged all by yourself from the 5200 and back. From Copiapo to Copiapo we spent 6 days for the ascent ...
Along the way I lost the camera. Then it was found, but returned me only flash card with photos. Sorry for the camera, which was on Everest, South Pole, and many other points ...
But I'm happy, now I have something to show you ..
Take care of yourself! Good luck in the mountains. Vitaly S.