Korobeshko Luda

May 12 Dhaulagiri

Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Report for the past period.

 May 7 - moved from BC to C1. A little faster than last time - in just 9 hours. The icefall melted, the cracks became wider.

 May 8 - moved from C1 to C2. By evening we learned that the advance group had been walking from C2 to C3 for as long as 12-14 hours... This made us a little... wary. We felt that our plans could change. However, we were told by radio that the plans were in effect and the advance group (the hanging team and the combined group) was ready to go on the assault in a few hours. Around midnight we were woken up and told that plans had changed and the upper group had decided to spend an extra day in the upper camp.

 May 9 - woke up late. Anyway, it was a forced rest day at 6200... Celebrated Victory Day and Igor Smirnov's birthday. Walked up a bit.

 May 10 - early rise and exit at 5 am to C3. The crossing turned out to be really tough - a snow-ice slope with falling snow. By the end - 35-40 degrees. There was nowhere to rest at all. We got there quickly - in about 10 hours. But we were exhausted. The camp is not conducive to rest and recovery at all - a tiny area at an angle of 25-30 degrees. The tents are crooked, it is impossible to walk between them without crampons and self-belay. There are 3-5 people in each tent. Boiling water is a huge problem. By this time, the ropers and climbers from the international team had just started to return from the summit (their journey to the summit took 15-20 hours).

In the end, we decided to leave after 9 p.m. We slept for 2-3 hours (whoever could). And by 10 p.m. we somehow got out of the tents. And immediately a steep snow-ice slope. We passed it in an hour and a half. Then the ridge. And then - an oblique traverse. All the ropes are under snow. Everything needs to be re-tracked and the ropes dug out. Snow above the knee. We walked very slowly. And then the wind picked up. We all hoped that it would die down. But it only got stronger. It was very cold. After 2 hours of fighting the wind and snow, the Sherpas said that it was dangerous to go further in such a wind. And we ourselves realized this. So we decided to turn around.

There were many adventures on the descent, including an avalanche, which miraculously only touched us with the edge. By the evening of the same day we were already at the Base Camp.

May 11 - today. We are already on our way to Kathmandu. We are resting and exchanging impressions in Pokhara. We decided that even if we go to another mountain, we will keep the previous name - "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club".

The leader of the Dhaulagiri expedition, Lyudmila Korobeshko, sends from Nepal:
Hello everyone from Dhaulagiri! The plans have changed. At night, a message came that the advance group was unable to leave C3 for the ascent. They were too tired during the climb from C2 to C3. They climbed for 9-13 hours and the last ones arrived only at 19:00. There is little space for tents. 4-5 people sleep in a tent.
Well, that means we will spend two nights at C2. Our assault is postponed to May 11.
This morning, we congratulated Igor Smirnov on his birthday and each other on Victory Day!

Today, our group passed a not very difficult section from Camp 1 (5800) to Camp 2 (6200). Progress was hampered by a large amount of snow. The advance group of Sherpas and an international company climbed to Camp 3, also known as the assault camp. Again, due to the large amount of snow, it was not quick. They spent about 9-10 hours. How will this affect their attempt at the ascent tomorrow? Four Sherpas led by Makalu Lakpa will be the first to set out tonight. Let's wish them good luck!

The 8000 Club team, led by Lyudmila Korobeshko, successfully climbed to Camp 1 (5800m) on the slopes of Dhaulagiri. As planned. The Sherpa group that is supposed to finish the route is in Camp 2 (6200 m) together with the international team of climbers. Tomorrow, according to the plan, four Nepalese led by Makalu Lakpa will climb to Camp 3 and go to finish the route at night. So far, the rope has only been fixed to 8000 meters. The summit for the international group is scheduled for May 9. For ours - for May 10. The main thing is that the weather does not interfere with the implementation of these plans.

May 6, Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Today we had a day of preparation for the assault exit. Tomorrow, May 7, we leave Dhaulagiri Base Camp for C1. Then according to the plan: May 8 - transition to C2. May 9 - transition to C3. May 10 – Summit Assault and descent to C2. May 11 - return to BC.

The international team has already left today. They will go a day ahead of us.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 5, Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! We are still at Dhaulagiri Base Camp. The exit is slightly postponed due to weather conditions.

We started the morning, as always, with exercise. Today, the legendary Pakistani climber Sajit Sadpara, son of Ali Sadpara, joined us. He is doing the 14x8000 project without O2.

After breakfast, we held oxygen classes and distributed the Sherpas. The exit is scheduled for May 7. And the assault on the summit, accordingly, is on May 10. So tomorrow is another day of rest and preparation.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 3, Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club! We are resting again. And it looks like for a long time. Forecasts show snowfalls in the coming days… To raise morale, we decided to organize a flash mob demonstrating our expedition gear.

In the evening, we held a teleconference with Yura Lukyanov (he is already in the hotel in Kathmandu, he was discharged from the hospital). Our immediate plans are to stay at the Base Camp on May 4 and 5. Possibly, we will leave on May 6 if the weather improves.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Photos from the Sherpa team. Photographed in the area of Camp 3.

May 2 Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Today we had a rest day in the Dhaulagiri Base Camp. We had a bath day, washed and did laundry. And the female part of the expedition also organized spa treatments, with masks and creams.

By lunchtime, a helicopter arrived with a new member of the international expedition. He brought us a parcel from Yury Lukyanov with kazy, red caviar, chocolate and other goodies.

That night, from May 1 to 2, the team of rope-riggers attempted to storm the summit. They reached 8000 (lost time by climbing false couloirs several times) and after almost 20 hours of storming, they turned around.

In the evening, we checked the forecasts - unfortunately, there will be snowfalls in the coming days. So we will sit in the BC and wait for the weather to improve.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

May 1st to Dhaulagiri. Happy holiday to everyone and namaste from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group! Today we returned to the Base Camp after two high-altitude overnight stays. Unfortunately, one of the participants - Yura Lukyanov - was forced to end the expedition due to health reasons. Now he is in the hospital in Kathmandu, recovering.

On the first day we reached Camp 1 (5700m) in 10 hours, gaining more than 1000 m vertically. It was a tough climb - many steep ropes on rocks and ice, cracks...The next day we moved to Camp 2 (6200m). This climb was much easier - only 500 m of difference and easy snow terrain.

This morning we celebrated May 1st with a friendly line in Camp 2 and cheerfully ran down. True, we almost got lost in the fog, which began just when we were approaching the icefall. But everything worked out, we found the way. Everyone went down to the camp alive and well.

Now we are resting.

We are planning an assault exit no earlier than May 4-5. Now the ropes are fixed to Camp 3. But tomorrow the first attempt to storm the summit by the team of Sherpas fixing the route and two members of the international team (a Pakistani and a Taiwanese are spending the night today in Camp 3 without oxygen) is possible.

Head of the expedition to Dhaulagiri Lyudmila Korobeshko.

According to reports from Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club"! On April 29, the weather improved a little, and we went on the first acclimatization rotation. at 5.20 from the camp. One of our participants felt unwell and with the help of the Sherpas returned to the base camp. The rest continued their journey and reached Camp 1 in 10.5 hours.

On April 30, the group successfully ascended from Camp 1 to Camp 2. All the participants who ascended feel well. The weather is also good. We spend the night here today - at an altitude of 6200. Tomorrow we descend to Base Camp.

** The leader of the Lakpa Makalu Sherpa team reports that he hopes to reach the summit by May 1 and fix the ropes on most of the route.

The list of the route preparers: Taraman Tamang, Pem Dorchi Sherpa, Phurba Kusang Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Chhumbi Sherpa, leader of Lakpa (Makalu) Sherpa.

April 28 Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the group "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club"!

Today we had a day of waiting for the weather to improve at Dhaulagiri Base Camp. It was snowing, the wind was howling, and at times the noise of avalanches was audible. By evening the sky cleared up and the stars appeared. So tomorrow early in the morning we are planning a two-night rotation for acclimatization. Tomorrow - to C1 (5700), the day after tomorrow we will move to C2 (6200) and on May 1 - we will return to the base. Everyone is cheerful and healthy.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 27. Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group!

 Today we spent the whole day preparing for tomorrow's planned exit for the first rotation. We packed our things for 3 days, selected food, checked the gear. It started snowing at lunchtime. About 10-15 centimeters fell. After 17:00 the sun came out, avalanches began to descend. Then it started snowing again, then fog descended.

 A small consultation was held over dinner. Its result was the decision to postpone the exit for one more day. According to the forecast, tomorrow will also snow all day. On the one hand, it's sad, I really want to get moving already. But safety comes first. So tomorrow we'll be back at the base camp.

 P.S. - we did our morning exercises. As usual. We even did some push-ups. And in the evening, traditional spa treatments awaited us.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 26, Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Today we had a Puja. It was conducted by our old friend, Lama Pasang, who has worked with us on expeditions more than once. We blessed our most important pieces of equipment and received a blessing from the lama. And after the Puja, according to tradition, Nims began dancing.

Apart from the seven of us, there is only one international team in the camp near Dhaulagiri. Also 7 people. We got to know them better at the Puja. The son of the famous Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara, Sajit, is here. Three strong climbers - Czech Klara, Iranian Aram and a German climber who is going without Sherpas and without O2. And a few more climbers, whom we know from last year on Dhaulagiri.

Unfortunately, snowfall is forecasted for the near future. But nevertheless, we are planning an acclimatization rotation for the day after tomorrow, April 28. All the participants are doing well. They are already eager to get into the fight - they have gained strength during the two-day rest.

And this morning we also saw off Natasha Smirnova. Her trek program is over. And she flew to Kathmandu, where she was reunited with her daughter Nina, who has just returned from trekking to Everest (now she dreams of Elbrus and Kilimanjaro).  Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 25. Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group! Today we had a day of rest. But we started it traditionally - with morning exercises. And then we had a bath - washed ourselves, did our laundry. After lunch the weather got worse - it started snowing, the wind picked up, it got colder.

At 18.30 we had an aperitif as always. Today we tried kyzy from Yury Lukyanov from Kazakhstan. It is not inferior to the magical lard that Ira Zisman fed us throughout the entire trek. We washed it all down with the signature borscht from Dendy.

Tomorrow we have Puja - the consecration of the camp. And we see Natasha Smirnova off to the mainland. Her trek program is coming to an end. In 1-2 days we plan to go to C2. But according to the forecast, there will be heavy snowfall the day after tomorrow. For now, we are thinking and monitoring the forecast.
Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 24, Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group! We are finally home! That is, at the Dhaulagiri Base Camp (BC). Behind us are 5 days of intense trekking with two passes above 5200 and an ascent on a peak at 5800 m. We spent three of the four nights at 5000. We hope this will replace one rotation on the slopes of Dhaulagiri. The trek, by the way, is very wild. We met almost no people, there is no infrastructure. We spent the last night in a picturesque place by the river. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Reminds me of Tibet.

Today we overcame the highest pass on our way - French Pass. And by lunchtime we entered the camp, where our favorite chef Dendy and his team warmly greeted us. A scarf on the neck, an aperitif, chicken water soup, onions and garlic. Everything as we like.
Now we will rest in the camp at 4700 for the next 2-3 days. We will arrange a bathhouse and a big wash.
Head of the expedition to Dhaulagiri Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Audio message from the head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko:

April 23. Hello everyone from the Dhaulagiri expedition! Today we completed part of the trek from Dhampus Base Camp to Hidden Valley. We spend the night at an altitude of 5100 in a picturesque place. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we arrive through the pass to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Expedition leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 22, Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group! The first night at an altitude of 5000 went well. Today we got up at 4 am, at 5 we set out to climb. We walked along steep scree and snowy slopes. The views were stunning: on one side Tukuche and Dhaulagiri, on the other - Nilgiri and Annapurna.

By 10 am we climbed the peak of Dhampus small (5800 m). We took pictures and quickly ran down. And just in time. After lunch the weather suddenly deteriorated - it started snowing with rain. Now we are already in tents. Resting. Of course, everyone is tired, but healthy and feeling good. The day after tomorrow we plan to be home (that is, at Dhaulagiri Base Camp).
Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 21. Club 8000 Expedition to Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! The first night at 4100 was calm. It was warm and windless. At 7 in the morning we had tea and at 8 in the morning we went further. In 6 hours we reached the assault camp of Dhampus Peak, located at an altitude of 5000. We gained almost 1000 meters vertically. On the way, our mountain Dhaulagiri opened up to us in all its glory! We managed to take pictures against its background. Snowy slopes had already begun. Having arrived at the camp, we had lunch and decided to rest a little. Tomorrow we will have an early rise and go out to assault Dhampus Peak (6012 m). Everyone feels well, despite the rather sharp gain in altitude. The weather is also pleasing so far.Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 20. Expedition to Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! This morning we left Marfa early in the morning towards Dhaulagiri Base Camp. According to the plan, the trek should take 4-5 days. We walked for almost 6 hours to the first camp and gained 1400 vertical meters. The path passed by coniferous forests and juniper thickets against the backdrop of the most beautiful peaks of the Nilgiri massif. By lunchtime, we arrived at the camp at an altitude of 4100. We had a festive picnic in honor of Easter with supplies that we brought from our homeland. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we are going to 5000 and the day after tomorrow we will try to climb the six-thousander Dhampus Peak. We are doing well. The weather is great.

The leader of the Dhaulagiri expedition is Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 19. Dhaulagiri expedition news. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Our team went on an acclimatization hike today - climbed 550 meters above the Marfa settlement, saw Jomson and a piece of the Mustang kingdom. On the way back, we walked along the colorful streets of Marfa, filled with the spirit of Tibet.

And in the evening we had an oil painting "Masons invent meldonium." We boiled and painted eggs in the field. Tomorrow we are heading on a hike towards the Dhaulagiri Base Camp. There will be no connection for 4-5 days. Don't worry! We will send voice messages to the answering machine. (If we catch the satellites!) Dhaulagiri expedition leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.