"Red Fox Elbrus Race" - final report

Red Fox Elbrus Race - 2010 8-12 May, 2010 A new record on skyracing to the Elbrus was set on the festival of extreme kinds of sports "Red Fox Elbrus Race". An athlete from Moscow Mikhail Klimov climbed the highest summit of Europe for two ... read more

Red Fox Elbrus Race - 2010

8-12 May, 2010

A new record on skyracing to the Elbrus was set on the festival of extreme kinds of sports "Red Fox Elbrus Race".

An athlete from Moscow Mikhail Klimov climbed the highest summit of Europe for two hours and twenty seven minutes within the main discipline of the festival that is skyracing to the Elbrus.

Andrei Puchinin has been taking part in the festival for three years; he called the day of the 10th of May "the Records Day" as 30 athletes ascended the highest top of Europe. The last year result was improved more than 16 minutes and it became the main achievement. Five participants among the leaders were able to improve Semyon Dvornichenko's result who was the winner last year (2:43).

After the finish the record-holder Mikhail Klimov, master of sports in cross-country skiing and second- class sportsman in mountaineering, said that his victory in skyrunning in Red Fox Elbrus Race was the result of the training during many months when he mounted the top of the Elbrus for nine times. «My ski training and proper acclimatization helped me much».

 

We should notice that skiers' participation and elite change became the main discovery of the festival: another skier, a sportsman from Yakutsk Dmitry Ploskonosov became the leader of the first stage of 2010 Skyrunner® World Series Trials: Vertical Kilometer®, the victory in it gave him 100 points in the world rating.

«I was surprised a little that there was such a long ascent, I had to run so much, the pace was set very high at the beginning, - Dmitry said after the finish. - I decided not to lag behind the leaders; I was following the leaders' group up to the finish. Step by step the group was lessening and only two of us left before the finish. And I won».

«Vertical Kilometer» was held in Russia for the first time. The distance with the vertical drop of 1000 meters was made from Polyana Azau till the Stance «Mir», it became the highest one in the World Series Trials. The result of forty eight minutes and one second made the Russian sportsman the winner of a man's contest; as for the women - the best was Megan Kimmel from the USA with the result of fifty nine minutes and seven seconds (10th place in the total contest).

Besides, Megan Kimmel from the USA became another discovery of the festival: she won three from four woman contests except the Vertical Kilometer, Megan was the leader in the skyrace to the Elbrus (she set a festival record among women - three hours twenty two minutes and sixteen seconds) and in the personal ski-mountaineering race, she also took the second place in the team ski-mountaineering race (in a pair with Natalya Alexandrova from Magnitogorsk).

 

Within the ski-mountaineering programme there were contests in the Open Cup in the Elbrus Region, the Cup of Russia (man and woman personal contests), All-Russian interagency contests in ski-mountaineering among military men in the Victory Cup in personal and team contests.

The winners of the Victory Cup in the team contest were the military men from Interior Ministry troops Ivan Rybakov (Grozny) and Sergey Matkin (Balashikha). Their team was the first on the finish. The winner of the "Victory Cup" in the personal contest was also Ivan Rybakov - "the golden ensign", he demonstrated his leadership in ski-mountaineering among the military men last year too.

 

The golden medals of the Cup of Russia and the Open Cup of the Elbrus Region were handed to Yuri Kurganov (Chelyabinsk) and Mingalim Sibaev (New Zealand). Among the women pairs the best proved to be the team of Elena Kirievskaya (Magnitogorsk) and Karina Mezova (Nalchik).

 

The eventful programme of the festival finished with the four-kilometer race on snowshoes with the vertical drop of 500 meters. The whole team of the festival: participants, judges, organizers, members of the press took part in it. The distance ran from "Krugozor" till "Mir", the total length being four kilometers. Andrei Fedorov from St.-Petersburg and the athlete of the Red Fox Asia Team Ksenia Maeva from Almaty were among the leaders in the man and woman contests; Andrei had won mountain race for mountaineers "The March Hare" and he was awarded a free trip to the festival from the Company Red Fox.

 

The participation of the athletes from St.- Petersburg club for the people with the limited possibilities "Mashtab Plus" was initiated by the organizers of the festival - the company Red Fox and the Russian Mountaineering Federation. Six sportsmen with poor eyesight took part in the Elbrus Race and successfully achieved the summit. Each of them was awarded an official sign "The Russian Mountaineer".

 

The director of the Company Red Fox and the participant of the festival Vladislav Moroz (the ascent time to the Elbrus was five hours and four minutes) draw the main conclusion: "The leaders' record time, the number of athletes, including foreigners (this year sportsmen from Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Ukraine, Georgia, USA, Lithuania, Greece, New Zealand took part in the festival) and safety of this event demonstrate real growth of both sports skills of participants and organization level of the event. I must also notice the contribution made by the Government of Kabardino-Balkaria, the Elbrus Search and Rescue team of Emergency Ministry, the head of the company "The Elbrus Cable Cars", and the head of the National Park "The Elbrus Region". I am really proud of the team who has been organizing such a great sports holiday. I hope that after Vertical Kilometer is included into the schedule of World Series Trials the number of participants from Russia and abroad will increase next year."

 

For additional information, please, contact:

Anna Stolbova

+ 7 926 814 17 63

a.stolbova@gmail.com

Crina climbed Pico de Orizaba (6.194 m), this is her sixth volcano from the Volcanic Seven Summits

Ola Senior Abramov, I just came back in 'civilization'. I wanted to let you know last news about our North America 2010 Expedition on Altitude Mountain Club. Last week on May 21th I climbed Pico de Orizaba - highest vulcano in North ... read more

Ola Senior Abramov,

I just came back in 'civilization'. I wanted to let you know last news about our North America 2010 Expedition on Altitude Mountain Club.

Last week on May 21th I climbed Pico de Orizaba - highest vulcano in North America. As you know already this is the 6th from 7 volcano for me from Volcanic Seven Summit. The last one will be Mt. Sidley in Alaska. As I do know I'm already on a little step to be the first omen who make Volcanic Seven Summits & also the youngest climber....

Next days we do have here in Mexico a meeting with the Romanian Ambasador. She wants to promote my achievements in Mexican Press. Do you mind if I'll put in the press release infos about the expedition in Antarctica & that you'll guide the first women for Volcanic Seven Summits in Antarctica?

Best regards,

COCO

Crina (Coco) Popescu is a 15 year-old alpinist, representing the Romanian Alpinism and Escalade Federation

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 Crina climbed Pico de Orizaba (6.194 m). This is her sixth volcano from the Volcanic Seven Summits

The next challenge for Crina is McKinley (6,194 m) from Alaska, the Altitude Mountain Sportive Club informs. Crina Coco Popescu is a 15 year-old alpinist, representing the Romanian Alpinism and Escalade Federation.

Pico de Orizaba (5,636 m) from Mexico is the highest North American volcano and the sixth volcanoes she escaladed in the circuit of the seventh highest volcanoes on each continent - Volcanic Seven Summits.

Coco is the world's youngest female alpinist to climb the world's highest volcanoes. At the end of 2010, Crina planned to climb Sidley from Antarctica - the last volcano from the Volcanic Seven Summits. The mount on Mt. Sidley in Antarctica would make Coco first world alpinist to climb all there is to climb in the circuit.

The young alpinist Crina Coco Popescu is taking part in the "North America - 2010" expedition organised by the Altitude Mountain Sportive Club. The aims of the expedition is to climb the highest volcanoes on the continent - Pico de Oribaza from Mexico (%,636m) and the highest top on the continent, McKinley (6,194 m) from Alaska.

She was born on December 3, 1994 in Rasnov. Coco is currently a student.

Crina Coco Popescu achievements record:

2010 - 21 May: Mexico – Pico de Orizaba (5635m) – the highest North American volcano, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2010 - January.: Papua, Indonesia – Carstensz Pyramid (4884m.), world youngest alpinist in Romania - the highest top in Australia and Oceania, the most technical top in the SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit;

2010 - January.: Papua New Guinea – mount Giluwe (4,368 m), the world’s youngest alpinist, first alpinist from Romania - the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2010 - January.: Australia – mount Kosciuszko – the highest mountain in Australia, the Dick Bass version from the SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit;

2009 - July : Russia, mountain Caucasus, top Elbrus (5,642 m) – the highest top in Europe, SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit, the highest volcano in Europe, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2009 - June : Tanzania, mountain Kilimanjaro, top Uhuru (5,895 m) – the highest top in Africa, SEVEN SUMMITS Circuit, the highest volcano in Africa, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

2009 - January.: Argentina, Cordelier Andes – Aconcagua (6,963 m), route "Route Polish Iceberg", the world’s youngest person – the highest top in South America, SUMMITS Circuit;

2008 - December.: Chile, Atacama – top Ojos del Salado (6,893 m), world’s youngest person – world’s highest volcanoes, the highest volcano in South America, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit.

2008 - top Alam Kooh (4,850 m), the North face, premiere for Romania;

2008 - the Alborz Massive (Iran), top Damavand (5,671 m), world’s youngest person – highest volcano in Asia, SEVEN VOLCANOES Circuit;

 2008 - Mount Caucasus – top Kazbek.(5,047 m) ), world’s youngest person;

2008 - May: Mount Olimp – top Mytikas (2,919 m), in winter;

2007 - Nepal – top Kalapattar (5,550 m), Everest Base Camp;

2007 - Turkey – top Ararat (5,165 m), world’s youngest person;

2007 - Mont Blanc(4,810 m);

2007 - The Alps- Mont Dolent (3,800 m);

2005 - The Alps- Dente del Gigante (4,014 m).

The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest

Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good ... read more

Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

 

Dr. Igor Pokhvalin from Crimea - Everest Summiter, the first Ukrainien on the Seven Summits

 

Happy end of the most hard day

The most stressful day of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition is coming to an end. All members, guides and Sherpas have found their place in the camps and rest. The first group completed went down to the base camp at 5200 meters. All are ... read more

The most stressful day of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition is coming to an end. All members, guides and Sherpas have found their place in the camps and rest. The first group completed went down to the base camp at 5200 meters. All are feeling well, vision problems, which are often at high altitude, as usual, during a descent were held without a trace. Most of the second group came down to a comfortable camp ABC. Only our women Malgorzata and Elena should spent night above, at 7700 m. With them stay our guides and Sherpas. Oxygen, drinking, drugs - all in abundance, until the morning all should recover and continue their journey. Now it will a way home. Let greetings for tomorrow. By the way, snow in the evening almost ended and in the morning it may be good weather.

The second group is on the top

At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest ... read more

At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

The second group is near the top

At 7 a.m. local time, the second group  is in the "snowy triangle", an hour from the summit. Snow is strong, there is no wind at all. It seems that this is the first day of the monsoon. Alex Abramov. Group members: Guide Sergey ... read more

At 7 a.m. local time, the second group  is in the "snowy triangle", an hour from the summit. Snow is strong, there is no wind at all. It seems that this is the first day of the monsoon. Alex Abramov.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

Our first summit group 10 climbers on the top !

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky ... read more

First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

 

 

 

 

Everest: record of early exit for the summit bid

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., ... read more

In the camp 3 at the altitude of 8300 meters there are about 100 climbers. In such situation, a turn on fix ropes could be a major obstacle for success. Therefore, our first group decided to go to climb before everyone else - in 9:30 p.m., before getting dark. It looks as a new word in tactics of Everest climb. According to our calculations, our group should reach the top of Everest in the 4-30 - 5-00 a.m. local time. The second group came to the camp 7700 meters, everything is OK.

First group: guide Noel Hanna (Ireland), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky (all – Russia), Steve Berry (UK) , James Wilde (USA).

 

 

 

 

Everest: the first group goes on the attack line

The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), ... read more

The weather is excellent! In the morning the "Group One" came to camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to camp 2 (7700 m), Unfortunately, there is first loss. For reasons of health, Pole Krzysztof Ginalsky went down, he has very bad cough. This morning 13 - year-old Jordan Romero reached the summit. We are in anxiety about our American friends and are waiting for them on their way down.

 

 

Next step on Everest

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper ... read more

Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.

Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day.

 

 

Everest: strong winds broke our plans for summit

The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second ... read more

The first group of expedition 7 Summits Club is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds. For the second day, no one could go up. Sherpas, who were unable to carry loads to the upper camps, are also sitting in the tents. The second group remains in the camp ABC. Waiting on Everest, tedious, anxious - it is a heavy need. The main thing is not to get sick, save a form. Wind is expected to become moderate already the next night. However, in the coming days are expected with snowfalls. Would it be a good window for climb ?

PROGRAM of XIII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL "Vertical"

PROGRAM of XIII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL "Vertical" May, 17 (Monday) 14.00-20.00 ul. Seleznevskaya 11, page 3 Memorial Museum of Y. Senkevich Accreditation 13.30-14.00 PRESS CONFERENCE for journalists 14.00-15.30 16.00 – 20.00 ... read more

PROGRAM of XIII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL "Vertical"

May, 17 (Monday)

14.00-20.00 ul. Seleznevskaya 11, page 3

Memorial Museum of Y. Senkevich

Accreditation 13.30-14.00

PRESS CONFERENCE for journalists 14.00-15.30

16.00 – 20.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«THE ICE SCULPTOR» (Switzerland)

«RIFT VALLEY – EPISODE 3: FROM HELL TO THE HOLY LAND» (Austria)

«AN ANGEL IN THE CLOUDS» (Italian)

 

May, 18 (Tuesday) 17.00-21.00 Academy of Emergency Ministry

17.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

Festival Competition Film Screenings

«ECHO WALL» (UK)

«CLIMBING SPIRIT» (Italy)

«AN ANGEL IN THE CLOUDS» (Italian)

«LEAD ME IN THE SEA» (Russia)

«PICNIC OF FOURTH CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY» (Moscow)

«WILD BALKANS» (Austria)

«ON THE TRAILS OF BLACK SEA SHORE COAST» (Russia)

«SECOND DISCOVERING OF ALASKA» (Russia)

«TO REACH» (Kyrgyzstan)

«LUNATIC» (Russia)

«THE FORTUNATE ONE» (India)

«BLACK RIDERS» (Russia)

«WINTER. PAINTINGS OF MOOD» (Russia)

“COUNTRY OF THE THREE TUNGUSKA" (Volgograd)

«BHUTAN – A SEARCH FOR HAPPINESS» (Slovakia)

«PUTORANA OR TRIP ON THE YENISEI TO THE COUNTRY OF BASALT SOMBRERO» (Russia).

«WILD BALKANS» (Austria)

«ON THE TRAILS OF BLACK SEA SHORE COAST» (Russia)

May, 19 (Wednesday) 14.00-20.00 Ski Club "Kant"

19.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«MOMENTS OF WINTER» (Russia).

“ATTENTION, MOUNTAIN" (Russia)

«SEZON» (Russia).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

 

May, 20 (Thursday) 14.00-20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

Day of Mountaineering Films

17.00 – 21.00 Festival Competition Film Screenings

«MOMENTS OF WINTER» (Russia).

«MOUNTAIN OF HAPPINESS» (Ukraine).

«PRICE OF VICTORY - 2008» (Ukraine).

«ACOPAN TEPUI – MOUNTAIN OF GODS» (Germania).

«SEVEN EIGHT HUNDRED NINETY-THREE» (Ukraine).

«CLIMBING SPIRIT» (Italy).

«BEYOND THE WALL» (Italia).

«CARSTENSZ – THE SEVENTH SUMMIT» (Slovakia).

 

May, 21 (Friday) 13.00-20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

«GRAVITY NEVER SLEEPS». (Switzerland).

«URUCA ( 5.12C R/X )». (Brazil).

«FISHERMEN AND THE SKY». (Ukraine).

«DIVERS». (Russia). 2009

«FREE SKI». (France).

«NICE ROPE JUMPING TEAM». (Russia).

«PARACHUTE DAY-SPRING». (Ukraine). 2009.

14.00 - 15.30 THE MAIN AWARDS CEREMONY.

PRESENTATION OF THE FILMS NOMINATED FILM FESTIVAL "VERTICAL"

SPECIAL GUESTS OF THE FESTIVAL:

Polar explorers and Dmitry and Matvey Shparo.

Travellers brothers Sinelnik.

World record holder in the weight-lifting Anatoly Yezhov.

"Endless Flight of Dmitry Maslennikov”. Special presentation. Famous paraglider.

Golden edelweiss – Award for the best climb of the Year. Mountaineering Federation of Russia.

Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«GRAVITY WORKSHOP». (Russia).

«WHITE NOISE». (Switzerland).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

«SEZON» (Russia).

“EXPEDITION RA-RA-1 AND 2 "(Norway).

«REAL STORY» (Moscow).

“UNDERWATER ADVENTURES. CONFESSIONS OF A DIVER "(Moscow)

 

 

May. 22 (Saturday) 13.00 - 20.00 RGUFKS&T (Sirenevy Bul. # 4)

13.00 – 14.30 Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«AMBASSADORS OF MONTENEGRO» (Slovenia).

«CALL OF MOUNTAINS» (Republic of Dagestan).

«FOREST BELL» (Moscow).

«KPD» (Moscow).

14.30 - 16.30 Movie Review of the Russian Competition

Awarding of the winners of the Russian Competition

"THE ARCHIPELAGO OF COLÓN (Moscow)

"GORBIACHIN-2009" (Moscow)

"THE ROAD TO THE SEA" (Moscow)

"LAND QUECHUA" (Moscow)

"TRUE COURSE" (Narofominsk)

"KAZBEK SOLO" (Vladikavkaz),

"THE WORLD NEXT DOOR" (Ukraine)

"OASIS IN THE DESERT" (Moscow)

"EASTER ISLAND" (Krasnoyarsk)

"ISLANDS, VOLCANOES IN ITALY" (Moscow),

"PLATEAU UKOK: ALEPH REALITY" (Vladikavkaz),

"SUNDAE" (Kamchatka), "SHORT STORY" (Kemerovo)

"TALES OF THE TEREK FORESTS" (Moscow)

"UZUNKOL – WINTER IN SUMMER" (Krasnodar).

17.100 – 20.30 Festival Competition Film Screenings:

«INFINITE FLIGHT TO CLOUD».(Russia).

"EXPEDITION CONTINUES" (Moscow).

"SUNDAE". (Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky).

"MAN FROST” (St. Petersburg)

«THE URALS» (Wild Russia Series, Part Ii) (Germany).

«LOST TEMPLE» (Israel).

“AROUND THE PLANET BY-OFF ROAD 4x4” (Russia).

«THE ASCENT TO THE STONE AGE» (Russia).

«MOUNT ST. ELIAS» (Austria).

«THE ROAD TO HEAVEN» (Ukraine).

«HELP» (Russia).

«FEVER» (Russia).

Everest: the way to the summit is open, plans and timing are defined

On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather ... read more

On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.

Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.

First group: guide Noel Hanna, Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry, James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Second group. Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.

Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.

Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.

 

 

 

Our group climbed Everest, the Northern Peak

Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 ... read more

Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours, the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although Northern ! "

The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the expedition continues.

Our group climbed Ama Dablam

May, 13 a group of climbers from Club 7 Summits climbed on Ama Dablam. Now they go down, everything is OK. It was Pavel Laktyushin, Dmitriy Nikitin, Vladimir Khitrikov (our guide) and two Sherpa climbers.   read more

May, 13 a group of climbers from Club 7 Summits climbed on Ama Dablam. Now they go down, everything is OK. It was Pavel Laktyushin, Dmitriy Nikitin, Vladimir Khitrikov (our guide) and two Sherpa climbers.

 

Everest Expedition: how to use a window

Today the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillman’s Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 – 17 of May a weather "window" is expected ... read more

Today the whole team, led by Nicholas Cherny, went into the Tillman’s Glade for additional acclimatization. I and Mingma tomorrow go to the Middle Camp and the day after to the ABC. 16 – 17 of May a weather "window" is expected and our Sherpas plan to finish supply of goods and equipment to the camp at 8300m. And we (Alex and Mingma) probably go up to the Changtse in this brief moment of calm. Weather forecast promised after 22 May good conditions and we plan to climb the main Peak on these days ...

Alex Abramov

 

Thanks to Alex there was a meeting of generations: 13-year-old Jordan and Nicholay (a legend of Mount Everest, aa  www.jordanromero.com)

 

Changtse, South Ridge

 

Victory Day in a new Cosmic station tent

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began. We invited all expeditions, ... read more

We rested three days in Xegar and Tashidzong, where we fished for trout in mountain river, and from where we brought a fresh lamb. Then the whole team gathered on May 9 at the Base Camp. And the holiday began.

We invited all expeditions, which were in BC (15 expeditions) and staged a party in honor of the Victory Day. This is the traditional celebration here. Almost everyone came, because now in the camp has nothing to do, there is too strong wind above ABC camp. Guests were interesting to look at the camp of "7 Summits Club", especially at a big new tent, named a space station. Inside that big tent more than fifty people sat around the table.

The party was fantastic. People eagerly communicated with each other, drinking beer and other beverages. Climbers from different expeditions tried to know each other better. In the focus, of course, were women, only seven for hundreds of men.

Everything was going so well that the official part was not required. But one time Alex Abramov told about the Victory Day. The people happily agreed, that is all, and they continued their conversation.

Soviet and German military marches sounded, someone even danced. In the next tent somebody was singing with a guitar. The guests were reluctant to finish, joy and communication. The party lasted from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. .

People sometimes have to relax. Such an unusual event memorable!

About plans of our team: for May, 15 forecasts promise a small window for 1-2 days.

But we are a big and serious expedition. We want to wait for a good stable weather for climbing. We hope the good weather will come after the 23rd May.

Best regards,

Alex Abramov

President of "7 Summits Club"

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vandalism under Everest

In 2008, the year of the Olympics in Beijing, the Chinese announced that they provided cell phones to camp ABC (6500m). This was called "China Mobile". So it was - they put on from BC to ABC 4-5 powerful repeaters. All repeaters except one, ... read more

In 2008, the year of the Olympics in Beijing, the Chinese announced that they provided cell phones to camp ABC (6500m). This was called "China Mobile". So it was - they put on from BC to ABC 4-5 powerful repeaters. All repeaters except one, are on the slopes of the mountains surrounding the valley and it is hard to pin down. Therefore, up to the Middle Camp there is a very good mobile connection.

But above the Middle Camp, we found on the trail broken by someone, probably by Tibetan yaksmen, amplifying station (repeater). Solar pelted with stones, antenna and cables were plucked out of touch. Who do it ? Now there is no mobile in the ABC camp, because the signal is fed from the amplifier to an amplifier, and now the chain is broken.

 

 

 

   

  

 

 

Training in the area of the camp ABC.

 

 

 

 

During the acclimatization ascent, we surveyed the route of ascent on the southern ridge of the North summit of Everest (Changtsze).

 

 

 

A new super-construction in our Everest base camp

Yesterday all members of 7 Summits-Club Everest expedition depart to Xegar on 4200 m for rest. Jeeps come only at 7 p.m., so we had time to put our new eightmeters-tent. The task was not simple, but interesting. Nicholay Cherny acted as ... read more

Yesterday all members of 7 Summits-Club Everest expedition depart to Xegar on 4200 m for rest. Jeeps come only at 7 p.m., so we had time to put our new eightmeters-tent. The task was not simple, but interesting. Nicholay Cherny acted as foreman and as topman. Then the rest teammates enthusiastically joined in the work, including Sherpas. When it came time to raise the curtain, it was 15 people working together. ...

This is a real super-construction. Outside you can not understand the scope, but it towers high over our giant yellow tent. Inside the tent - everything looks like a cinema hall and recreation room for 20-25 people.

Today a team of our four guides and doctor Igor Pokhvalin, with a sense of accomplishment, go to Tashidzong at 4000 m, to rest for 2 nights. On May 9, we plan to return to the base camp and invite guests for celebration on the Victory Day in the new tent. .

Best regards !

Alex Abramov

 

 

   

 

     

 

 

     

 

     

 

     

 

 

 

 

 

Kilimanjaro in a record tempo, and in bad weather ... Congratulations!

Today in the 6.45 a.m. our team reached the highest point of the Kilimanjaro Uhuru Peak (5895 m). The ascent was done in a very high tempo, despite strong winds, storm and almost complete lack of visibility. Now the group has descended into ... read more

Today in the 6.45 a.m. our team reached the highest point of the Kilimanjaro Uhuru Peak (5895 m). The ascent was done in a very high tempo, despite strong winds, storm and almost complete lack of visibility. Now the group has descended into Horombo Hut, all happy and getting ready for the wildlife of Africa on safari.

Here are the names of heroes: Natalia Adler, Adele Bahtigozin, Mikhail Belyakov, Stanislav Gradov, Maxim Zadubrovsky, Vladislav Mamulkin, Alexei Skaballanovich, Vladimir Khristenko, Dmitry Chikin. Guides: Ludmila Korobeshko, Vladimir Lavrinenko.