Beautiful Indian girl scales Europe’s highest peak Mt. Elbrus as six of seven summits

Pune, April 25 (IANS) Braving strong gales and temperatures below minus-20 degrees Celsius, Pune mountaineer Krushnaa Patil Sunday scaled Europe’s highest peak, Mt. Elbrus (5,642 metres). Accompanied by a sole guide, Vladimir from ... read more

Pune, April 25 (IANS) Braving strong gales and temperatures below minus-20 degrees Celsius, Pune mountaineer Krushnaa Patil Sunday scaled Europe’s highest peak, Mt. Elbrus (5,642 metres).

Accompanied by a sole guide, Vladimir from Russia, Krushnaa started the treacherous climb in a blanket of 20 cms snow at 6 a.m. Sunday.

“Owing to heavy snowfall, low temperatures and strong winds, she had to wait for three days at the base camp for the weather to clear. Luckily, she got a window today to finally attempt the climb and succeeded in reaching the summit by 1 p.m.,” her mother Ranjana Patil told IANS here Sunday night.

By late afternoon, Krushnaa started her descent and is expected to reach base camp - at around 3,694 metres - by early Monday morning, Ranjana, herself an avid mountaineer, said.

With this, Krushnaa has scaled six of the world’s seven tallest peaks in all the continents and her eyes are now set on Mt.McKinley in Alaska (6,194 metres).

Incidentally, last month (March 13), Krushnaa and Ranjana both scaled the 2,228-metre Mt. Koscinszko, the highest Australian peak.

A couple of months before that, Krushnaa summitted South America’s highest peak Mt. Aconcagua - 6,961-metres high - in January this year.

Earlier, in May last year, Krushnaa reached the summit of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8,848 metres), followed by Africa’s tallest mountain, Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,895 metres) in October and the highest peak in Antarctica, the 4,897-metre tall Mt. Vinson massif, in December.

Ranjana Patil said her daughter plans to conquer even Alaska’s Mt. Mckinley within the next few months. She added preparations are already underway for the effort which will make her the first Indian to scale all the seven peaks in the seven continents of the world.

Krushnaa, who is pursuing Bachelor of Arts (BA) at Pune University, is a professional Indian classical dancer and choreographer. She also designs dance costumes, jewellery and home interiors.

 

 

Miracles on Everest ...

One day members of the expedition visited the monastery of Rongbuk. There our Dr. Igor Pokhvalin performed miracles with the help of simple tablets. And the other team members trained on the sacred rock. So we all deserve a miracle. And in ... read more

One day members of the expedition visited the monastery of Rongbuk. There our Dr. Igor Pokhvalin performed miracles with the help of simple tablets. And the other team members trained on the sacred rock. So we all deserve a miracle. And in the evening the miracle happened… at the base camp. Huge glowing pylon rose up between the tents. It was a miracle worthy deeds of the Gods. If it had happened a hundred years ago, all of Tibetian fell to the feet of Alexander Abramov. But even now, we feel that respect for our leader among Tibetans have risen.

 

Alex Abramov wants to climb Everest on bike

 

To the monastery for a miracle

 

Miracle 1: Our Doctor help to a monk

 

Miracle 2:  8d + on-sight

 Main Miracle

 Our Wizard - Uncle Kolya

 Woa !

 

 

 

Well-known Ukrainian climber Vladimir Khitrikov leads our expedition to Ama Dablam

Today, a guide and leader of our expedition to fabulous Ama Dablam Vladimir Khitrikov fly from Kiev to Kathmandu. For two days he will be devoted to the preparation of equipment, products and formalities before the arrivals of main group. ... read more

Today, a guide and leader of our expedition to fabulous Ama Dablam Vladimir Khitrikov fly from Kiev to Kathmandu. For two days he will be devoted to the preparation of equipment, products and formalities before the arrivals of main group. April 26 Pavel Laktyushkin should arrive in Kathmandu. He is one of the most active members of the 7 Summits Club. With our Club he has already traveled to the following programs: Kilimanjaro, Ecuador, Mont Blanc, Elbrus, Aconcagua. And now – to Ama-Dablam. A day later, on April 27 Ilya Kovalev and Dmitry Nikitin arrive to join the team.

Vladimir Khitrikov (55) is one of most experienced sport mountaineers of ex-USSR. He was a member of great expedition Lhotse South Face 1990.

 

  

 

 

Photo from the capital of Sherpas

Hi, we are in Namche Bazaar. Some member of our group ran, some crawl, but at least everyone is alive and well. Especially information for friends and relatives Oleg Pak announced that the goat was not mad. So no one was hurt. Such sacred ... read more

Hi, we are in Namche Bazaar. Some member of our group ran, some crawl, but at least everyone is alive and well. Especially information for friends and relatives Oleg Pak announced that the goat was not mad. So no one was hurt. Such sacred goat bites, we were told by locals, only the elect, and it is considered as a good omen.

In the evening we have scheduled training sessions, we will deal with the equipment.

Olga Rumyantseva

 

A new stage of our expedition begins

Half an hour later two groups under the guidance of Uncle Kolya and Noel Hanna went on acclimatization to the advanced base camp. All these things have to move to a height of 6400 m.             read more

Half an hour later two groups under the guidance of Uncle Kolya and Noel Hanna went on acclimatization to the advanced base camp.

All these things have to move to a height of 6400 m.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our Island Peak expedition landed in the Khumbu Valley.

 Morning flight to Lukla. After landing, we started up. By lunchtime, we came to the village of Phakding. Everything is good: the weather, and mood. After dinner the group went to acclimatize to the local monastery, 600 years old. We ... read more

 Morning flight to Lukla. After landing, we started up. By lunchtime, we came to the village of Phakding. Everything is good: the weather, and mood. After dinner the group went to acclimatize to the local monastery, 600 years old. We met local monks and beat drums.

Island Peak expedition: 13 members, 2 leaders (Olga Rumiantseva and Sergei Timofeev).

Sergei Timofeev (52) from Yekaterinbourg is a well-known Russian climber, many-times Champion of Russia. He knows Nepal perfectly, has climbed Everest and three separate peaks of Lhotse.

Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move up...

Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move for the night up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) at 5800 meters (approx 19,000 feet). Under the new expedition concept developed by Abramov over the past two years, the ... read more

Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move for the night up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) at 5800 meters (approx 19,000 feet). Under the new expedition concept developed by Abramov over the past two years, the group moved in lock step, slowly to the destination. The new concept is part of Abramov's safety first initiative, to ensure that no one is lost on the mountain, and should an unfortunate accident occur, guides, sherpas, and team members are around to help.

 The team left after breakfast yesterday at 11:30 local time, with everyone arriving around 18:00, just before dinner. The slow pace was designed to keep everyone together and allow everyone to arrive fresh and without any major altitude issues.

 Having been in Alex's Everest program in 2005, I noticed immediately the improvement in IBC services; new tents, heated dining facilities, electricity, and toilet tents. I must say that I dreaded always going through IBC, because it was always cold and the accomodation, spartan. It was a shock to come back to IBC and see that although the camp had shifted 50 meters up the glacier, almost a world of difference exists in the services there.

 We had a grand dinner, and sat around the table discussing in comfort various topics; cutting the ropes on our least favorite teammates seemed to come up quite often :) ... Some in the group played cards and others quietly drank tea until approximately 22:00 when we turned out the lights and cut off the heaters.

 Fully hydrated and well fed, the team slept through the night until the sun hit our tents at around 09:00 today. Again a great meal was prepared and we packed our things and returned to Base Camp. The team left IBC at 10:00 and we wound our way back down the East Rongbuk Glacier descending 600 meters over 12 kilometers under blue skies. Just past the Yak camp where the East Rongbuk meets the main Rongbuk glacier, we had wonderful views again of Pumori and Everest's North Face. A giant Lenticular Cloud had formed over Everest's peak, causing pause and photographs to be taken.

 We are now back in Base Camp, having just finished a late lunch, everyone queueing for the showers. We will have the next three nights here to complete stage 1 of the acclimatisation process in the expedition. Afterwards, our plan is to head up to Advanced Base Camp and spend 1 night there and return. While I would love to share the rest of our plans with you, I want to make sure everyone knows that there must be some flexibility in expedition planning, therefore I will only communicate 3-4 days of plans in advance.

 Another small announcement is that Alex and the 7 Summits corporation have agreed to support the charity Global H2O, a global clean water initiative. The charity, Global H2O, was founded in 2009 and raises money to create sustainable clean water sources and sanitation facilities for those in need. The first project was completed in February of this year, bringing clean water to over 1500 people in Uganda. The charity is looking for support globally either via fundraising, volunteers, donations, or corporate sponsorship. You can find out more atwww.globalh2o.org.

 Other than that, everything is running smoothely here and the spirits are high.

 All the best from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

James Wilde

(on behalf of the 7 Summits team)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Start of a new expedition to Nepal. For Island Peak with Sergei Timofeev

Today we farewell to a long trip leaders of the expedition to Island Peak Olga Rumyantseva and Sergei Timofeev. They will ensure climb of this trekking peak for 13 climbers of different qualifications, combined with a dream to enjoy a view ... read more

Today we farewell to a long trip leaders of the expedition to Island Peak Olga Rumyantseva and Sergei Timofeev. They will ensure climb of this trekking peak for 13 climbers of different qualifications, combined with a dream to enjoy a view on beautiful Himalayan peaks of the world headed by Everest. And also they pass on the legendary trail from Lukla airport to the upper Khumbu valley and climb the mountain of Kala Patar. Few people can tell about Nepal as much as Sergei Timofeev, a master of sports from Yekaterinburg. For example he climbed all three summits of Lhotse in the three different expeditions by three different ways.

 

Team members:

Adinyaeva Aelita

Akhmetshin Rustem

Barsukov Stanislav

Belousov Gleb

Bermisheva Pauline

Ganzha Alexei

Kiselev Sergey,

Nebuchinov Roman

Nosov Mikhail

Oleg Pak,

Salnikov Marina

Dmitri Seliverstov,

Andrey Shlyapnikov.

 

 

Sergey Timofeev    Master of Sports in mountaineering, "Snow Leopard", winner of two gold and silver medals of the USSR championships, three gold, three silver and four bronze medals at the championships of Russia, member 5-Himalayan expeditions

So what is base camp like to live in?

The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move ... read more

The team arrived yesterday at Everest Base Camp (5200 meters). All of us were dizzy from the gain of over 1000 meters from Shegar. However, we were welcomed with a great lunch, and then got busy finding our gear and unpacking for the move up to ABC in a few weeks.

 For some out there, Everest Base Camp is something very hard to comprehend. 5200 meters is higher than Mont Blanc, and the barometric pressure (oxygen level) is about 60% of that where most of us normally reside. Nights at base camp are warm in the group tents, and people think that with all the luxury provided on such an expedition that this is an easy undertaking. The truth is that we must all head back to our tents and sleep in sub zero temperatures for the next 40 days!

 

 The one great thing going for us is that we have Alex and his guides looking out for us. We have a good level of comfort. The food is well prepared and the corners are not cut here. There are two doctors with us and we are all being monitored closely. The program is well structured and the first rule here is all about safety.

 So what is base camp like to live in? Well, currently there are 100 people waiting and acclimatising. There is a LOT of gossip going around. The big talk this year is of the boy who wants to climb Everest. Some think it is a publicity stunt, some who know the family think it is pressure from the parents to pick up where they left off, and some really dont give a damn. In any case this is the story on the north side.

 During our time in base camp, we will go for short walks, eat, read books, watch movies and avoid getting ill. There will be much speculation as to what teams have the best acclimatisation schedule, when the weather window will come, and which team is strongest.

 Our base camp is pretty well up the Rongbuk, just below the morraine dam. This keeps us isolated well from both the fierce Everest wind as well as rumors. It also is a shorter walk up to IBC, which is a great benefit...

 In any case all is well and we are all settling in. I am sure that everyone in the team wants to thanks their friends and family for allowing them the opportunity to pursue this great dream. We are all thinking of you.

 Best regards from Everest Base Camp, Tibet, China,

Jamie (on behalf of the 7 Summits Club Team)

Let’s hydrate the world!

James Wilde
Managing Director & Founder
Global H2OAbout the Foundation

 

 

   

 

     

 

   

 

     

 

   

     

 

     

 

   

Victor Bobok and friends returned form the North Pole

Even the easiest route to the North Pole, with helicopter was in this year challenging. Severe storms, extremely low temperatures - all of this introduces an uncertainty into the plans of flights, as well as a very strong drift, which is ... read more

Even the easiest route to the North Pole, with helicopter was in this year challenging. Severe storms, extremely low temperatures - all of this introduces an uncertainty into the plans of flights, as well as a very strong drift, which is constantly shifting point of poles on the ice surface. What to say about those who go skiing! The difficulty of the campaign surpassed the worst expectations. So that our members have reached the extreme northern point of the planet can be proud of. Club North Pole explorers replenished our friends Vyacheslav Adrov (by helicopter), Irina Klimova (by skiing) and Igor Grishkov (by skiing, the program "Last Degree") .... Congratulations!

Also the North Pole was reached (dog sledge program) by our friends Vasily Kolesnikov and Alexei Soloviev.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The group went to Shegar, Earthquake here - only on TV...

During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and ... read more

During the past few days, the 7 Summits Club team has seen a lot of the Tibetan culture, traveled across the plateau to reach Shegar, and begun to bond as a group. Of all these things the most interesting questions coming from friends and family are: “What are the hotels like?” and “What do you guys eat every day?” That said this entry is not about Everest but about the food we are eating and what we will plan to eat.

 The staple of the Nepali and Everest Climb diet is the famous Mo Mo. Mo Mos come in a variety of shapes and flavors and resemble what most people will recognize as a Spring Roll. The are Yak MoMos, Chicken MoMos, Mystery Meat MoMos, and, my favorite, Veg MoMos. MoMos can be steamed or fried. Any which way you have them, MoMos are great and have an even better name.

 The standard Everest breakfast has many variants (the Russians love to use this word), but there some standard building blocks. The building blocks are chapatti / pancakes, eggs, some form of meat, and bread. Sometimes there is porridge. The variety of egg styles changes every day. Sometimes they are fried, sometimes they are scrambled, sometimes they are boiled.

 Dinner is also always very good. Fresh meat and vegetables are served every day. Sometimes we have pizza even. All in all from a food perspective we are well taken care of at the main camps. Above the North Col, we will be eating tea crackers, soup, chocolate, and drinking lots of hot tea and water--- as will most other at the high camps.

 Today the group went to Shegar and walked through the new and old parts of the village. We made our way up to the monastery. After a short visit to the monastery, the team proceeded up to the top of the hill. Everyone was in good form and made the top.

 Now we have free time until dinner at 8 and will begin tomorrow at 8 o’clock on the ride to base camp. The truck is filled with all sorts of goodies for base camp, and the team is anxious to get there.

 

Best regards from Shegar,

Jamie (photo in the middle)

On behalf of the 7 Summits Club team

Start of the Everest expedition, all participants in Katmandu

April, 8 Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the ... read more

April, 8

Early in the morning 16 Sherpas and 3 guides of 7 Summits Club (Cherny, Larin and Hanna) left Kathmandu. In the evening they crossed the border into the City Dzhangmu on the Tibetan side. Afternoon flight Qatar Airways brought the remaining members team - all 16 people. They landed with a delay of 8 hours, committing an additional landing in India.

In the evening we had a "Familiarization briefing”, goes into a festive dinner. Alexander Abramov showed participants a slide show with their nearest future. Then the team members a little drunk, but happy, had gone to rest in the famous Hotel Yak and Yeti.

April, 9

In the morning we all went to the bus tour of Kathmandu, along with the best guide, whose name was Varvara. That evening there was the distribution of team jackets and shirts. Then we moved to the best restaurant in town named "Kaiser" ...

Tomorrow, April 10, according to the plan we purchase of personal equipment and packing goods. April 11, we must fly to Lhasa.

  

 

  

 

 

A call from the North Pole. Victor Bobok - 7 Summits + 2 Poles !

Our best guide Victor Bobok and his group has reached the North Pole. Despite the heavier than usual weather, bitter cold and wind, our skiers have made "last degree" programme, i.e., the last 111 km, in perfect tempo. In reality, they were ... read more

Our best guide Victor Bobok and his group has reached the North Pole. Despite the heavier than usual weather, bitter cold and wind, our skiers have made "last degree" programme, i.e., the last 111 km, in perfect tempo. In reality, they were about 12-15 km more, because every day the ice drift carried them in the opposite direction.

Our congratulations to Victor, who made the Grand Slam - a collection of 7 summits and two poles. Before him, in Russia only Fedor Konyukhov did it.

Again 8848: Nepal and China agree on Mount Everest's height

China and Nepal have agreed a solution to a long-running disagreement over the height of Mount Everest. They agreed that the world's highest mountain - which traverses the border of the two countries - should be recognised as being 8,848m ... read more

China and Nepal have agreed a solution to a long-running disagreement over the height of Mount Everest.

They agreed that the world's highest mountain - which traverses the border of the two countries - should be recognised as being 8,848m tall.

The Chinese previously argued it should be measured by its rock height. Nepal said it should be measured by its snow height - this is four metres higher.

During talks in Nepal's capital Kathmandu, China accepted that claim.

This means the official overall height of Everest is now designated as 8,848m. Nepal also recognises China's claim that the rock height of Everest is 8,844m.

Correspondents say that while thousands of people have climbed the mountain since the first ascent in 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, its exact height has been disputed ever since the first measurement was made in 1856.

The broadly-accepted height of 8,848m was first recorded by an Indian survey in 1955. It measured the mountain's snow cap, rather than the rock beneath it.

But geologists say that the estimates of both countries over the height of Mount Everest could be wrong.

They say that the mountain is becoming higher as India is gradually pushed beneath China and Nepal because of shifting continental plates.

In May 1999 an American team used GPS technology to record a height of 8,850m - a figure that is now used by the US National Geographic Society - although it has not been officially accepted by Nepal.

BBC News

1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition

On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the ... read more

On Saturday, 3th of April in Kathmandu a historic event took place - the first commercial climbing competition among Sherpas who work on Everest. Name of competition: "1-st Everest Sherpa wall climbing competition". The idea belongs to the leader of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and director of Asian Trekking - Dawa Steven Sherpa.

These competitions were designed as a team competition between expeditions. Therefore, the participation fee in the amount of $ 10 per person were paid no Sherpas, but by leaders of expeditions. 11 Sherpas from 7 Summits Club and 11 Sherpas from Asian Trekking and 2 Sherpas from the team of Jamie McGuinness took part in the competitions.

Competitions were held on speed, as pair races without time fixing (elimination system or knock-out system). As a result, 1-st place (as well as 3 and 4) got the Sherpas of the 7 Summits Club, second place went to a Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The winners received prize money provided by the organizers: $ 200 for 1-st place, 100 for second, 50 for 3rd and 50 for 4 th place.

After the competition, all participants ate dalbat and discussed the competition and their results.

Numerous spectators, journalists of the leading Nepali newspapers, legendary climbers were all delighted with this event. President of Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tsering offered to make it as an annual event and hold them between all the expeditions, departing on Everest.

 

Great Sherpa Apa (in green) is going for the 20 th climb the summit of Everest. At this time his mission is to place the ashes of Mt Everest conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary on the summit of the world's tallest mountain

Our friend Ang Tsering came to look at the competition

 

Alex explaining the rules

 

 

The winners hiding unplanned cash

Mingma, our permanent Sirdar and Alex

Joint Team climbed Pumori almost to the top

Summit attempt took place on April 1. Prior to this, March 30, it was snowing and so the whole day on March 31 team stayed at Camp 2, waiting "until the snow settles." The weather was normal: a strong wind and cold. In 6800 Peter Pustelnik, ... read more

Summit attempt took place on April 1. Prior to this, March 30, it was snowing and so the whole day on March 31 team stayed at Camp 2, waiting "until the snow settles." The weather was normal: a strong wind and cold. In 6800 Peter Pustelnik, from the morning not feeling very well, decided to turn down. Slovak Peter Hamor went with him. The remaining climbers continued their ascent. However, only 100 meters from the summit, they were forced to retreat. The reason: lack of equipment, they required screws and snow stakes. It was decided not to risk, because the main purpose of ascent was not a summit, but getting acclimatization.

 

In the evening the entire team except for Russians was down to base camp. Sergey Bogomolov and Eugene Vinogradsky, again for reasons of acclimatization, they still remain for the night in Camp 2.

 

S. Bogomolov: "But we are satisfied. Acclimatization plan on the mountain run well".

According to Peter Pustelnik, it is possible that the Kinga and the Portuguese Joao Garcia will make another attempt to climb Pumori. But I think this is unlikely, because the Russian participants had already turned down the camp and lowered equipment.

 

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Everest 2010 highlights: Jordan Romero

Jordan Romero of Big Bear, Calif., is already an accomplished climber who has reached the tops of some of the world’s highest peaks. At age 10, Jordan and his parents climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa, Mount Kosciusko in Australia, ... read more

Jordan Romero of Big Bear, Calif., is already an accomplished climber who has reached the tops of some of the world’s highest peaks. At age 10, Jordan and his parents climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa, Mount Kosciusko in Australia, and Mount Elbrus in Europe, Outside Magazine reports. The next year, he was the youngest person ever to climb Aconcagua in South America and Denali in North America. Last year, he climbed Indonesia's Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Oceania and the so-called "eighth" summit. Now, along with his father Paul Romero and Paul’s partner, Karen Lundgren, Jordan has his sights set on Everest.

Jordan and Paul Romero

 

Jordan Romero trains daily to prepare for the extreme hardships of climbing the world’s tallest mountain. No longer in school, he follows an independent study program which allows him to focus on his climbing. The family has two hypoxic tents on loan. His mentors, Romero and Lundgren, are pro adventure racers. But Outside points out that Team Romero seems to operate in a world of all-consuming passions. There are no professional guides on the team, a detail that has experts concerned. If Jordan does complete his record-breaking summit, he'll be the only teen to do so without an experienced Everest climber on his team.

 While some point out the importance of Jordan being a role model for active kids, not many Everest climbers support the attempt. Russell Brice is one of Everest's most successful guides. As he told Outside, "I do not see how young people under the age of 18 can gain enough experience about mountaineering or themselves to undertake such a project safely.” Others point out studies on the teenage brain show that it is only 80 percent developed and that to put an emotionally inexperienced child on one of the world’s most dangerous mountains would be irresponsible.

 Jordan isn’t letting the doubters stop his efforts. As he told Outside, "I just focus on the goal I set out when I was 9, which is to climb the Seven Summits. I'm just not giving up. Stopping at nothing. I don't let people's doubts bring me down."

FULL ARTICLE IN THE SITE OF OUTSIDE MAGAIZINE

 

Four or more challenges on Makalu

While the main attention is focused on Annapurna, where women are arguing for the right to be the first on all 14 eightthousanders. Meanwhile, the number of so-called "challenges" in the first place the other giant peak - Makalu. Two teams ... read more

While the main attention is focused on Annapurna, where women are arguing for the right to be the first on all 14 eightthousanders. Meanwhile, the number of so-called "challenges" in the first place the other giant peak - Makalu. Two teams are planning to make new routes, and the German Luis Stitzinger intends to perform the first ever ski descent from the summit.

41-year-old Stitzinger, in recent years, got a taste for the establishment of outstanding records. He has already made descents on three eight-thousanders, set speed records on the Polish route on Aconcagua, etc. .. His climbing partner is his girtl-friend Alix von Melle, as well a guide, as well an extreme skier. However, on Makalu Luis will skiing alone, too severe would be descent.

Route for ski descent

 

 

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From ExplorersWeb

Americans Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt plan to make waves on a lonelier 8000er: Makalu.

“Marty Schmidt and I are headed to the south side of Makalu, leaving this coming week,” Chris Warner wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.”

Route details

“Our planned route lies between the SW Ridge (opened by Czechs in 1976) and the SE Ridge (Japanese climb in 1970),” expedition website SharedSummits reported. “The route will ascend snow gullies and rock bands, up the 7000 foot face to Makalu SE (7803 meters). Here it joins with the Czech and Japanese routes along the SE ridge, knife-edged and gendarme guarded all the way until the summit.”

“At 8300 meters, a 100 meter rock band blocks the route, making for an extremely technical summit day,” SharedSummits added. The climbers expect to find snow slopes to 60 degrees, ice to 85 degrees and rock sections to 5.7.

Himalaya veterans

Both climbers are highly experienced mountaineers: In addition to new routes on Shivling and winter Ama Dablam, expedition leader Chris Warner has been on 13 expeditions to 8000ers, reaching the summit of Everest (guiding three times), K2, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma (solo south side) and Cho Oyu, plus attempts on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak.

A regular on Denali and Aconcagua; Marty is a seasoned high mountaineering guide and a four-time Cho Oyu summiteer (including a speed ascent and a ski descent), who also topped-out Kangchenjunga and attempted K2 from both sides.

“Marty Schmidt and I are headed to the south side of Makalu, leaving this coming week,” Chris Warner wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.”

 

 

 

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From Everestnews.com

Will Cross

Will Cross departs shortly for Makalu as part of his Giant Mountain Challenge; a quest to climb six of the highest peaks in the world. All are located in the Himalaya and all are above 8000m. The purpose of this challenge is to demonstrate that one can lead an extraordinary life with diabetes, an incurable condition and a global pandemic. So far, Cross has topped out on Everest, Lhotse and Cho Oyu. He has had diabetes for over thirty years.

Novo Nordisk continues to be the primary corporate partner of this endeavor. Wild Things is the exclusive pack and gear provider. Dermatone is the exclusive sun care protection. HealthiFeet and Adventure Medical Kits have also stepped forward to support the Giant Mountain Challenge.

 

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March 27, Ukrainian National expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010" started from Kiev. The expedition includes 10 climbers, 2 coaches, a doctor. Expedition leader - Valentin Simonenko. The purpose of the expedition - climbing Makalu (8463 m), the fifth summit of the world, by a new route along the South-West Face. This expedition is dedicated to the memory of the famous Ukrainian climber Vladislav Terzyul, who climbed all the Eight-thousanders. He died on the descent is from Makalu, the latest in his list of 14.

The team includes athletes from different regions of the country:

1. Yuri Kruglov - team captain

2. Sergei Pugachev (Gorlovka)

3. Sergei Boublik (Sumy)

4. Maxim Perevalov (Odessa)

5. Vladimir Klebansky (Odessa)

6. Andrew Kiyko (Kharkiv)

7. Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkiv)

8. Paul Kirichek (Kiev)

9. Dmitry Venslavovsky (Vinnitsa)

10. Igor Storozhenko (Donetsk)

Head Coach - Mstislav Gorbenko, the second coach - Michael Zagirnyak, organizer and leader of the expedition, Valentin Simonenko.

 

Winter Training on Elbrus

Expedition will last 2 months. Upon arrival in Nepal athletes decide to organizational matters, then 8 days walk will reach the base camp .. May 27 athletes plan to return to Ukraine.

The expedition can be monitored at blogging site leader and team captain Yuri Kruglov: kruglov.biz

 

From the left: Michael Zagirnyak, Yuri Kruglov, Mstislav Gorbenko

Start of the International Everest Expedition of the Seven Summits Club

On Sunday leader of the International Everest Expedition Seven Summits Club Alexander Abramov flew to Nepal. Guides and climbers arrive later in early April, and while President of our Club will hold the necessary organizational and ... read more

On Sunday leader of the International Everest Expedition Seven Summits Club Alexander Abramov flew to Nepal. Guides and climbers arrive later in early April, and while President of our Club will hold the necessary organizational and protocol events that precede the expedition. This year we return to Tibet, which poses the usual problems: obtaining permits, providing transportation and so on. On Monday Alexander arrived in Delhi. It is a temporary stop, as the Kathmandu airport was closed due to bad weather.

Alex Abramov

 

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

List of members

Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)

Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)

Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)

James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)

Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)

Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)

Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)

Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Russia (1970)

Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)

Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)

Steven BERRY, UK (1955)

Guides

Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader

Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide

Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide

Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition

Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor

Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)

Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)

Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)

Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)

Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)

 

From the farewell party:

Alex Abramov

Nikolai Cherny

Max Bogatyrev (left)

 

 

Victor Bobok starts to the North Pole

On Saturday, the leading guide 7 Summits Club Victor Bobok flew from Moscow to Oslo. Further his path will pass through the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and the station of Barneo to the North Pole. The last 111 km, that is the last ... read more

On Saturday, the leading guide 7 Summits Club Victor Bobok flew from Moscow to Oslo. Further his path will pass through the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and the station of Barneo to the North Pole. The last 111 km, that is the last degree, Victor Bobok will lead a team of five tourists. For Victor, if successful, it will be the end of program "Grand Slam" - 7 Summits + 2 Pole on skis. He will be the first in our country who can do it.