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19 day, April 28, BC (5 200 m), day of rest

Source: blog of Evgeny Karyakin: everest-2015.blogspot.ru

Today, tomorrow and the day after tomorrow there will be planned rest days in the BC after the ABC. We spend it in the internet tent reading the news about the horrible disaster in Nepal and in the Himalayas. The situation with the continuation of the ascent is unclear; there is a lot of conflicting rumors. Leaders of other expeditions come to our camp to talk with Alex Abramov, share gossip, bring and drink alcoholic beverages. The mood at all, in General, is rather depressed.

If you take the dry residue from gossip and rumors, so far there is no concrete. We have no official Chinese statements of authorized persons until now. Leaders of expeditions await of arrival of a big sports boss from Lhasa, it is possible that after his arrival appears some understanding of the situation, or probably not. When we get the big boss is also unknown.

Alex Abramov gives a Skype interview with the Russian media directly from the sun, Valdis Pelsh – by phone, Bogomolov – by e-mail.

On the Internet there are a whole bunch of distorted and just invented informational messages. Importantly, none of the Russian trekkers, hikers and climbers who were in Nepal during the Catastrophe, was not injured... This is important – there were a lot of friends in different places;

Thank God that all living things!

Currently we can only sit, to enjoy nature and to wait for further developments.

Author: Jack Karyakin

All, Hello! This Is Dima Semenov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club. Now we are at 3900 at the hotel-refuge LeapRus. The weather looks quite good. Tonight our group will try to climb Mount Elbrus. Good luck to everyone! All, goodbye!

Hi, everybody! This is Vladimir Kotlyar. Good morning! We have here a morning sunrise over the summit of Everest. We are staying now at the summit of Kala-Patar. We are very lucky: at the moment, visibility is excellent, no clouds, we can see al mountains aound. Simply amazing! He mount of Pumori is right in front of us, of course, beautiful mountain! Now here we take a little break for a smoke ... and we start go down. We plan today to try to get to Namche Bazaar... All the best! We are all OK…

A Message From Denis Provalov. Everest base camp from the North ( Tibet). The expedition of 7 summits club.

Dear friends! Just few minutes we are descended from ABC (6400). I hasten to reassure you. With me and our group, all right, we all are alive, no injuries.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club reports from Nepal:

Hi! This is Vladimir Kotlyar, expedition to Island peak, now probably quoted. Because we finally thought about it and decided that we're not going  the Island Peak. In response to recent events we decided to stop our expedition ... We are now in Lukla (?) .... In the group all feel great. We are a little tired, it's the only thing we have.. Nothing to worry about. Just because we had to help in the evacuation of wounded people... (more unclear)

In Russian

1. On Everest expedition from the North. Today our guide Noel Hanna called. He is now in the base camp with the second group. Today there was an aftershock in B.c... But that's okay. No one was hurt. The camp and the route are at a safe distance from a possible way of rockfalls and avalanches.

They decided not go in the middle camp as previously planned, to wait for the first group.
The first group with guides Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin and Denis Provalov came out today from the camp at the altitude of 5800 meters into the camp of ABC at 6400 meters. They are also OK. Tomorrow they will descend back to the base camp.

2. The group of Vladimir Kotlyar on Island Peak today in Pheriche has assisted in evacuating of wounded from the base camp of Mount Everest. They have everything in order. Their journey will continue tomorrow

A message from Vladimir Kotlyar >>>>>>

3. A new group led by a guide Artem Rostovtsev flew this morning from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Also, all according to plan. In Tibet, there no great destruction, the situation is calm.

4. Our office in the centre of Tamel (7 Summits Adventures) suffered from the earthquake. All employees are alive and well. They are working from home or from their tents :(

Hi! It is Vladimir Kotlyar, the guide of the 7 Summits Club expedition to Island peak. We are still in the Pheriche. We don't leave this place for the simple reason, that today our group helped to evacuate the wounded, which was got down from the base camp of Mount Everest. It was a lot of them here. So we just found no moral strength to be aside and leave this small village. Our help was very useful. All members of the group, without exception, actively participated in rescue operations...

Then we planned to go further but it was again a new push and we decided not to risk. So we sit here and drink rum just before bedtime, enjoying life. In General, here it is not so bad.

And we send best regards to our Everest expedition! We could not contact direct, we are worry and hope that everything is OK.

So, we sit in the mountains, everything is closed, but somehow we will get from there. All the best! The rum supply allow us to sit here for another week. Not more! Adios!

Hi! This is Vladimir Kotlyar (guide of the 7 Summits Club) from Nepal. We are all well. We're all alive and healthy. Our relatives worried, getting the news about the earthquake. Here it was a few hours ago. We felt it not very strong. The weather deteriorated, it is snowing, but we are safe under the roof.

We are now in the village of Periche. At the altitude of 4276 meters, as written in our Lodge. We're fine, we're going to dinner. All the best! Be Happy!

Yesterday was beautiful and calm

Hello!  This is Alex Abramov, from Tibet, from an the 7 Summits Club expedition on Everest. Today, in Nepal has been a very strong earthquake. The echoes of this disaster were on our side, Tibetan, where is our expedition. All is good here, just several avalanches have come down and somewhere there were rockfalls...

... But otherwise, all is well, we are alive and healthy, sending greetings to family and friends. In Kathmandu all situation is worse, theu said, many victims, destroyed buildings. But also, we contacted with our group which are on the Nepalese side - Island's Peak, the second group in Tibet. All things there are good, so don't worry. They are safe.

We have not very good weather, snow is coming. Goodbye!

Yesterday it was our last rest Day in  the base camp. We have mastered the different possibilities of our base Camp:  played table tennis and billiard, watched TV and listened to a lecture by Valdis on the film making.

 In the evening we celebrated the birthday of Roman Reutov. He is now 31 years old. The evening was not boring, there were: toast friends and the leaders of the expedition, Tibetan folklore ensemble of the people's Republic, famous showman (Valdis)  from the first Russian television channel.  The main item was obligatory dance with every expedition girl in the hall. The party was a success.

 Today the team goes to 5800 m and tomorrow to the Advanced Base Camp at 6400 meters.

The weather is bad, the snow falling down.

 Follow the events live!!

The first outing to the altitude of 5800 meters is usually the hardest.

For the first time the team wears backpacks, and it is hard after the long and heavy jeeps trip. We begin walking on a broken yaqui trail. There is a lot of snow all around. The locals don't remember so much snow. A lot of snow is as on the trail, as on the slopes.

After 7 hours, the team from Basic (5200m) came to an intermediate (Middle) camp.

There is a comfortable accommodation: warm dining tent, warm tents, warm sleeping bags. The camp stands on the crest of the moraine, and all the wind flow around. The night went well, in the morning all were able to wake up :)

Next evening, already in the Base camp we inaugurated our club tent. It is a hemisphere of 12 meters in diameter. Inside there are: the TV, billiards, table tennis, library.

Now almost nobody from members gets ill. But Oleg Pimenov and Liana Chavdarova went down for prevention. They have a mild cough and to restore health, it is useful to stay down in the warmth of a kilometer below the Base camp.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from Tibet. Yesterday we had excursions to the Palace of the Dalai Lama Potala. Me and Mingma with the other guides were doing different sorts of purchases, Internet settings and all sorts of other things. Today the hosts said goodbye to us and our team drove 7 hours to the town of Shigatse, where we settled in a very nice hotel. Here we shall buy blankets, pillows, for base camp, in order to live comfortably over the next forty days. And tomorrow we will go further.

By the way, yesterday a dinner was held with the leadership of the Tibetan mountaineering. We discussed, among others, how to fix ropes on Everest. And also we discussed a visit the Tibetan climbers in Russia, to be held in June. The 7 Summits Club invites several representatives of the Tibetan mountaineering, with whom we want to climb Elbrus.
Goodbye! To the following information! Bye!

Hello everyone! This is Olga Rumyantseva from an expedition to Carstensz Pyramid. As I said, the day before yesterday we all by our friendly team in quite difficult conditions climbed (Pyramid) Cartenzs. Igor Stolyarov completed the Seven summits program, what made him for the second day very happy...

We are now on the way home, already nearly reached the third camp. So hopefully soon we will be in Sugapa. And go to Bali, it is time - some participants became similar to the Papuans, speak their language, eat their food, chew red poppy, etc... Bye!

The first expedition on Elbrus of the 7 summits Club in season 2015 has completed successfully. A Guide of 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev returned early yesterday to Moscow from the Caucasus after the successful ascent with a group on Elbrus. The team was lucky with the weather: thanks to the precise providence of guides, they caught a window of good weather between snowfalls. And 14th April (on the fourth day of their stay in the Elbrus region) the summit of the Eastern Peak was made.

According to a guide of 7 summits Club Olga Rumyantseva, today's climb was successful. The whole team descended to base camp. Tomorrow they begin the return journey through the jungle. We congratulate all participants and leader! And especially, that is, separately, we congratulate Igor Stolyarov with successful completion of the program 7 summits!

Igor Stolyarov - on the right

Alex Abramov: 

The entire team flew to Lhasa. Immediately mountain sickness struck us, so that the flag was upside down...
Now all feel good. Tomorrow a day in Lhasa. Need to do a lot of things.

On April, 10th eleven mountaineers will start their expedition to the top of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8848 m). Professional guides will accompany the group, because most of the participants will climb the highest peak on Earth for the first time. Climbing fans will have a unique opportunity to watch the ascent which will form the basis of a documentary with a working title of “The gene of altitude, or how to summit Everest”.

Vlad Moroz on the summit of Ama Dablam with Mt. Everest behind (L)

TV producer Valdis Pelsh will join the expedition to lead a team of photographers to capture the trials of climbing the Northeast Ridge route to the top of Everest from the early stages of preparation near the base of the mountain, ascending to base camp, acclimatization at the various camps along the route through the final push to the top. The film will tell the story of the team’s conquest of Everest and any related rescue activity.

Modern technology will allow a complete video record of the climb. Each climber will have an action camera, so no interesting event will remain behind the scenes. Three cameramen, two of which are professional mountaineers, will focus on recording the climb. With a dedicated video team the expedition promises to deliver many unique shots, both beautiful and emotional, since each mountaineer will face several physical and psychological trials.

Expedition team members:

Alexander Abramov – mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the 7 Summits Club, expedition leader

Ivan Dusharin – mountaineer, Master of Sport, International Class, Snow Leopard title holder, vice-president of the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Vladislav Moroz – mountaineer, Master of Sport, director of the Red Fox company

Denis Provalov – speleologist and mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the Moscow Federation of Sporting Speleology. In 2013 he set a World record for altitude differential of 10,998 m, between climbing to the top of a mountain and then descending to an underground cave.

This expedition is organized with support of the 7 Summits Club and RD Studio.
Red Fox and Zamberlan are equipment partners of this Everest Expedition

Hello! It is Alex Abramov from Nepal. Congratulations on your New, 2072-m year! Yes, You heard right, in Nepal tonight all celebrate such a date. Generally, the holiday goes for a holiday: Day of cosmonautics, Easter, and now the New Year. And we're all here. Today we visited the Russian Embassy at the invitation of the Ambassador. Father Seraphim blessed our expedition to secure success. And finally, tomorrow all of our holidays are over. Tomorrow at 9am we will leave the hotel and around 11 a.m. we fly to Lhasa. And there, as we have just seen on the weather forecast, temperatures of minus six degrees.

Serious expedition begins. Our team is 20 people, including our movie crew. Goodbye!

Alexander Gukov and Alex Lonchinsky (a guide of the & Summits Club) received last night a well-deserved award for the world's best climbing achievement 2014. Again, we congratulate our boys! For the second time in history, the 7 summits Club participates in the winning this prestigious trophy. Waiting for them home, and while we will try to convey the atmosphere of celebration with the help of a borrowed online photos...

We received two messages from the head of the expedition to the Pyramid Carstenzs (Indonesia, the island of Papua New Guinea) a guide of 7 summits Club Olga Rumyantseva.

Sunday 12 April:

"We came to camp 4. On the way we enjoyed the beautiful views. After he arranged the camp and had lunch, we held a technical training with elements of the jumar ascends and Tyrolean traverse (that's all we will meet very soon on the ascent"

Monday 13 April:

"We got to base camp. All is well. And if the weather permits, today we will go on summit climbing"

A few photos from past expeditions

Beautiful views on the way to and from base camp

Base camp

Tyrolean traverse