All news: 23 May 2025

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, Everest expedition leader:

 I would like to briefly comment on the situation with high-speed ascents to Everest, which are now being discussed as a miracle.

 Previously, expeditions to the Himalayan eight-thousanders lasted 2-5 months. The team set up camps themselves, carried loads, acclimatized on the route. It took a month just to set up 4 high-altitude camps. Then - a week of rest and the assault. Only those who retained their strength reached the summit.

Gradually, they began to attract more and more Sherpas.

In 1993, our team had 9 people and 0 Sherpas.

In 2000 - 12 people and already 3 Sherpas.

Now - 2 Sherpas per participant and the expedition duration is 35-40 days.

 And now - a revolution.

While the Sherpas spend 3 months preparing the route, the "speed climber" acclimatizes at home - in a hypoxic tent or with xenon. Then he flies to the base camp by helicopter and quickly goes to the summit along the "ready route" with oxygen, accompanied by Sherpas.

As a result, the assault takes everyone 5 days, but before, it took months. Now - "artificial acclimatization" and a week-long hike.

 Is this good or bad?

It doesn't matter. Everyone has their own goals. Before, in order to run around the stadium, they built it themselves. Now - come, buy a ticket and run.

Perhaps it's time to reconsider the approach: if the participant does not participate in the preparation of the route, then it is not necessary to sit in the mountains for a month. Let him come when everything is ready - and in a week to the summit.

 But on one condition: preliminary acclimatization must be competent and safe - under the supervision of specialists.

 On the investigation of the "xenon" team in Nepal.

 Yes, it is true - an investigation has begun in Nepal regarding the use of xenon. Xenon is officially recognized as doping and is banned in sports competitions. But climbing Everest is not a sports competition, and from this point of view it is not entirely clear what exactly to accuse the British team of.

 On the other hand, it is unethical to announce a record, openly proud of having used doping. It is the same as publicly promoting psychoactive substances: "Expand your consciousness and conquer the peaks!"

I did it - and that's fine.

Personally, I do not think that this is a reason to seriously punish athletes. Moreover, I assume that all this hype is an excellent PR move by the organizers. I do not rule out that next year there will be even more xenon clients.