16 September 2019, 17:30

Ludmila Korobashko, expedition guide and director of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:

 The days of 12-13-14. 14-15-16 Sep. The second acclimatization rotation.

 On Friday the 13th we decided not to go up, and started for second rotation  on Saturday the 14th. In the morning it rained a little. We reached the First Camp in about 5 hours. Now the Camp 1 is changed. Then dozen of new expeditions came with their tents. It snowed after dinner. But we were already in our big, cozy Red Fox dinner tent, where members of other expeditions tried to sneak in from time to time.

  The next morning we tried to get out early to cross dangerous areas before the slopes melted. We put on avalanche sensors, helmets, quickly gathered, but were not the first.  We had to pass some  group on the road. But on steep sections it was necessary to wait long - a rope upwards was only one. This section from  Camp 1 to  Camp 2 is the most dangerous on the route. There are  a lot of the overhanging cornices and seracs here. It was scary, so we hardly rested. We tried to quickly run through the dangerous areas. So we passed several ladders thrown over crevasses, in some places it was very impressive...

   By lunchtime we reached the Second Camp.  There we had discussed long time, how safely is chosen place for our camp. After all, just in this place a few years ago a big avalanche killed dozens of people.  We went to sleep with avalanche sensors on.

  We woke up at 5am, it was snowing. We quickly gathered to be first on descent. But  after 20 minutes on a steep section we again ran into the Chinese. But in the end, we still quickly descended to the First Camp. There we had breakfast and ran on through rain and snow. By 11 am wet, but happy we rushed to the base camp – to dry off, relax and watch the forecasts...