10 September 2019, 16:17

Manaslu. Days 7-8. September 9-10. The first acclimatization rotation outing at 5700 (to camp 1).

The morning of 9 September began with the Puja - blessing of the camp. At 6 a.m. Lama came from a neighboring expedition and began to read prayers. Our Sherpas built a stupa for the Puja. By 8 a.m. all members of the expedition gathered near the stupa. They brought equipment for the consecration and donations.

We lit a fire, the smoke went towards the mountain, which is considered a good sign. Drank the sacred drink and at the end of the ceremony castˇÔ tsamps toward the stupa.


About 10 am we left the Base camp. To 12 hours we reached the Crampons Point. Then we put on our crampons and went out on the glacier. There are many crevasses, but all are well marked. Bridges are reliable. The last 200 meters we were given a little hard: three consecutive steps. By the way, this year we put the first camp 150 meters higher than usual. But this place is more beautiful  and secure. And part of the route to the second camp is clearly visible - a somewhat frightening icefall with some overhanging.


 We went from basˇ camp to first in 6 hours. The vertical drop is about 1000 m. in the evening we measured oxygen (from 65 to 85) - on average, normal. We ate soup with chicken and rice. The first camp we have quite comfortable - there is a dining tent, sleep two in sleeping tents, and even with mattresses. And we allocated to the doctor a separate tent - for his kilograms of medicines. He had already "saved" two members - bandaged sprained wrist and plastered cracked nail.


We didn't sleep so badly. Although almost all had pain in the head, was saved by diacarb and analgesic (with Pentalgin). There were avalanches in the night, but we were almost used to this sound.


In the morning after breakfast we worked with avalanche sensors. Members quickly found everything that Dr. Larin had hidden. And then we all ran down the valley together. We reached the base camp in less than two hours - we really wanted to go to the bath.

Now we wash, rest, gain strength before the second more difficult rotation.