Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ... …         We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21     15th May we ...

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Oleg Pimenov climbed Mount Everest as a member  of the first group of  the 7 Summits Club. He published a collection of photos on Facebook, that we remade in the report ...

 

 

 

 

We decided that the best window will be on May 20-21

 

 

15th May we come in midlle camp. Everest was clean

 

 

On the morning of the 16th Everest began to smoke.  Getting worse...)

 

 

16th of May. In the advanced base camp (ABC) there were classes on the basics of survival. The technical part of the oxygen equipment and work with it

 

 

In the palm there is your life. Regulator. Wear near your  heart!

 

 

May 17th the familiar path to the saddle of Mount Everest to 7000m. Ahead - a string of Chinese expedition. Ropes on top yet not fixed. All hopes for Chinese

 

 

North Col

  

 

On the morning of May 18ер the Chinese have moved to the top of ...

 

 

We go after (for the Chinese)

 

 

Centered under stones  there is our advanced base camp – yellow spots

 

5 and a half hours, it took  the way to the camp 7,700.  Without oxygen it would  be all 7-8. Someone put in a poor tent

 

 

Here I am at home. 7700m. Behind, our goal looms

 

 

May 19th morning Sherpas moved to put the last camp. We have further 5 hours of relaxation

 

 

I admire climbers  by the window

 

 

It blows, however. Abramov said that the weather was perfect. Although sometimes difficult to resist

 

 

 

Traces of the past

 

 

That last camp 8300. The summit meets with flags

 

 

Everyday life above the clouds. All a bit nervous

 

 

The start is scheduled for an hour in the morning on 20 May. We skip ahead only Chinese. They go out at 11 pm. Breakfast

 

 

Half an hour later we reached the crest. The first stage of 8564m passed in the night,  not noticed, green shoes covered with snow. IPhone had  made 2 photos of second  step and had cold.

 

 

View of the third step, a pyramid and Chinese

 

 

Stylish design

 

 

Go along the ridge. Abramov said that it is just a walk.

 

 

The oxygen plan was to climb with two cylinders, and  one for the descent. One cylinder at maximum flow gives life for 4 hours. Before the third step  we  are changing the first balloon

 

 

The third stage and slow Chinese

 

 

 

We have passed the third step, 8710m. In front of the pyramid. With Irena Kharazova

 

 

A snowy field in front of the pyramid. With Vladimir Kotlyar and Roman Reutov

 

 

I go on the field ...

 

Fixed or non-fixed ropes

 

 

 

My Sherpa Mingma, he was on Everest 3 times from both sides

 

 

On the Everest  better  to climb at night. Pyramid

 

 

Sometimes it blows. A bit....

 

 

With acrophobia  it will be hard on Everest. Pyramid, 70 meters from the top.

 

What's the first thing you need to do at the top? Smoke break (Sherpas)

 

  

So how it looks. 8830

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Group photo. 8848m - with Irena Kharazova

 

 

In the background, a group of climbers is coming from Nepal. 8848m

 

 

Guides, video operator and my friend makes a proposal to his girlfriend. 8848m - Vladimir Kotlyar

 

 

Abramov think, in what direction to go down, Tibet or Nepal. Lyudmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov

 

 

Like the portrait. 8848m

 

 

No higher point is on the planet. - Vladimir Kotlyar

 

 

 

We rest under the roof - with Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

 

 

Everest crest

 

 

Fixed rope on the crest

 

 

Changze, the northern peak of Everest.7680m

 

 

A short rest on the descent.   No sleep here - the greatest risk  not to wake up

 

 

Saddle or 4th camp on the horizon

 

 

Yet we have to descend from the saddle. To stay alive and healthy, you need to go down to the 4 day go up to 8848 down to 6410m. If the ascent took 6.5 hours, descent – 11! Without food and water - with Vladimir Kotlyar, Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko

 

 

At the bottom of the North Col. By tradition, the climbers on Everest left here poles - Ludmila Korobeshko

 

 

 

Well, 18 hours later I'm in advanced base camp

 

 

May 21th - it is  too early to relax to us . There was a run 23 km on the glacier to the base camp. Savings oxygen cylinder on top to be my sail -   with Vlad Moroz