On October 24, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800 m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places."
Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru ): The route "Katana" to Rovaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword…
When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fangi in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks.
Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sl. M4, M5. we all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.
The idea of the first ascent in Rowaling is not the only idea, I have a lot of them. Perhaps this idea, despite the crazy logistics, vibrated the most strongly and Alexey was easy on the upswing.
In general, he is an outstanding climber, I do not understand why he is underestimated in the St. Petersburg Federation, probably, as always, personal motives.
Thanks to Vento, Bask Co and personally to my friend Konstantin Babkin, who ordered me a painting, and then helped me a lot in financing this expedition!
Go to the mountains as to a temple and do not look for dividends, Its will decide for themselves how sincere you are, there is not for money and fame here, but moreover, super-existence....