Very few high and well known mountains have kept through history their ancient names: Olympus, Fujiyama, Vesuvio, Demavend and Elbrus. Mt.Khan Tengri can join this great company. “Ruler of skies”, “Inaccessible for man”: these were the emotions the majestic pyramid gave rise to with ancient people. The peak stands in the eastern part of the Tengri Tag Range of the Tien Shan mountain system. This pyramid has a fantastic charming touch: the ...
Deposit for reservations 1 000 $
Full payment 30 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Leader-guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest Summiter)
all group transfers according to the program
Hotels accommodation (2* B&B, 2 nights)
Accommodation in base camps
Meals in towns, base camps and on the way to/from them
Briefing on details of climbing routes
Fixed ropes on the route
Radio contact with BC when climbing
Helicopter flights from Miyda-Adyr (Karkara) to BC on Inylchek Glacier and back. Luggage allowance is 30kg per person (1kg of overweight costs 3euro)
All local permits and registrations
Tents for high camps
Gas cartridges and petrol for stoves
Service in North Inylchek Glacier BC includes:
accommodation in tents for 2-3
three meals a day
shower, sauna, toilet, left luggage
electricity: 220V; 50H
registration with Rescue Service
long distance radio contact
walkie-talkies for climbing
Price does not include
Return airfare to Bishkek
Personal climbing equipment
Overweight in helicopter flights
Moscow – Bishkek - Karakol – Karkara – North Inylshek Glacier - Summit - Moscow
Why go there?
Very few high and well known mountains have kept through history their ancient names: Olympus, Fujiyama, Vesuvio, Demavend and Elbrus. Mt.Khan Tengri can join this great company. “Ruler of skies”, “Inaccessible for man”: these were the emotions the majestic pyramid gave rise to with ancient people. The peak stands in the eastern part of the Tengri Tag Range of the Tien Shan mountain system. This pyramid has a fantastic charming touch: the rosy-grey colour of its marble façade. The other, historical, touch is that only in 1989 foreign climbers got a chance to see and touch it “alive”.
There are about ten routes of different grades of difficulty to the summit of Khan Tengri. They are divided into two groups: from the South Inylchek Glacier and from the opposite side, the North Inylchek Glacier.
The classic route from the latter is practically avalanche-free. Some other convenient features of this route: up to Chapayev Peak’s shoulder it is visible from BC (so the rescue people can watch the climbers’ progress through their binoculars); VHF radio is very stable on this side; a lot of good acclimatizing options: Kyrlytau (5450m), Bayankol (5791m) and Kazakhstan (5761m) peaks; last but not least: at the start of the climbing season the route is equipped with fixed ropes which help speed and safety.
There is an esthetical side as well: for the background this climb has Khan Tengri’s north wall: 3000m high, made of black and yellow marble.
The route follows a rocky spur and comes to the snow dome of Chapayev Peak, from which the wide snowy West Ridge takes over. It ends at 5900m and another rocky ridge goes on to the summit. Good camping places are at 4500m (Camp 1), 5500m (Camp 2) and 5900m (Camp 3: a comfortable place for tents or snow caves). For tents the West Ridge offers only some rocky shelves at 6400m, so this Camp 4 is not always used by climbers who prefer to start from Camp 3 and spend on the ascent 12-14 hours. In 2006 and earlier some people managed to put in 20-25…
Tips guidelines (important information!)
You entrust your life, health, your time and money to the guides. And the guides take this responsibility for you and for the success of the whole trip. They are doing this 24 hours. 10-20 USD per day is expected as the normal amount of tips for the Guides and the staff of the program. If you liked everything about the trip, please don't forget to thank them. You can give the tips directly to the Main Guide and he will distribute it among the staff.
By air and by land
From Bishkek to Karakol we go in comfortable cars, minivans or buses (depends on group size); from Karakol to Miyda-Adyr BC and back - in less comfortable 4WD vehicles.
From Miyda-Adyr BC to Inylchek BC and back - by helicopter, MI8-MTV
Hotels 2* B&B, double room basis
In camps stationary tents and strong assault ones (for 2-3)
Self-catering in the towns
Full board in BCs (3 meals a day, professional cooks, vegetarian menu available, meals made to order)
In high camps meals are cooked by guides, water is melted snow
Guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest summiter with several 7-thousanders on his climbing record)
Health and medical insurance
Our guide will have a first aid kit. We strongly recommend to bring with your own specific medicines you might need. Besides, we recommend to start taking some vitamin complex 3 weeks before the expedition. A very good idea would be to test and acclimatize yourself, say, on Elbrus (in June).
As in all high mountains weather is quite unpredictable, but July and August are the most favorable months for the ascent.
Food in towns
Food-stuffs for ascent
Tips for local staff
Large expedition bag (optional)
Warm sleeping bag (good for -20°C)
Crampons (we recommend Grivel G12)
Rucksack 80-90 liters
Rucksack 40-60 liters
Harness (Petzl or Black Diamond)
Self belay device
Screwgate karabiners - 3-4 (Petzl, BD or Yatis)
Jumar ascender (Petzl)
Collapsible ski poles
Personal washing implements
Plastic boots (“Everest” by Millet or “Scarpa Vega”)
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore Tex jacket with a large hood
Gore Tex trousers (semi-overalls preferably)
Jacket “Polartec - 100” - 2 items
Warm underwear - 2 sets
Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
Windblock face mask
UV protection glasses (plastic, not glass!)
Ski goggles (preferably)
Accumulators and accessories for your camera(s)