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Climbing McKinley (Denali). Alaska. Sports style without Guides

   
The proposed route is a classic climbing route to the top of McKinley (West Buttress) - along the West Buttress. The glacier is covered with snow, glacial cracks are not visible. The steepness of the entire mixed snow-ice route can reach 40–45 degrees. These sections are equipped with fixed ropes.
22 days
Group: from 6 pax
2 900 USD
Deposit: 600 USD
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  • Price includes
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Day 1
Arrival in Anchorage. Transfer to the hostel (20min). Overnight at the hostel.
Day 2
Transfer to Talkitna (2.5 hours, 100 km). Overnight in a hostel.
Day 3
Meeting at the rangers in the morning (receiving permits and briefing). Packing things. Departure to the glacier after lunch (40 min.). Arrival on the glacier (2200m). Digging pits under tents. Setting up camp. Dinner. Overnight in tents.
Day 4
Start the climb. From the airfield (7200 feet, 2200 m) to Camp 1 Fork (7800 feet) or Ski Hill (7900 feet, 2400 m). Setting up camp. Overnight in tents.
Day 5
Trekking to Camp 2, Upper Kahiltna Glacier (9600 ft, 2900 m).
Day 6
Trekking to Camp 3 (11,000 ft, 3,350 m). Usually skis and sledges are left here, as well as some of the products for the descent.
Day 7
Transfer to Camp 4 (BC) Rangers Camp (14,200 ft, 4,330 m). There is a passage via the famous Windy Corner, considered to be the key of the route. Descent to camp 3 (11 feet). Overnight at Camp 3 at 11,000 ft, 3,350 m.
Day 8
Move to the Rangers Camp / BC (14,200 ft, 4,330 m). Overnight.
Day 9
Rest and acclimatization in BC at 4330m.
Day 10
Carry to High Camp (17,200 ft, 5,240 m). Fixed ropes Descent to BC at 4330m. Overnight in BC at 4330m.
Day 11
Move to the camp (17,200 ft, 5,240 m). Night at 5240m.
Day 12
Rest and acclimatization in the camp at 5240m.
Day 13
Climbing to the top of McKinley / Denali (6193m). Descent to the camp at 5240m.
Day 14
Descent to BC (14,200 ft, 4,330 m). Overnight in BC at 4330m.
Day 15
Descent to camp 3 (11000 feet, 3350m).
Day 16
Descent (snowshoeing) to the airfield at 7200 ft / 2200m. Overnight at the airstrip.
Day 17
Flight to Talkitna.
Day 18
Transfer to Anchorage.
Day 19
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 20
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 21
Airport transfer. Departure home
Day 22
Arrival home
Deposit for reservations 600 USD
Full payment 30 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Date Guides Price Group
May 10 - May 31, 2021
-
2 900 USD
Deposit for reservations 600 USD
Full payment 30 days before
No refund if you cancel less than 30 days!
Date Guides Price Group
May 10 - May 31, 2021
-
2 900 USD
Price includes

- return flights Talkitna-Kahiltna glacier (2200m) -Talkitna
- return trasfer Anchorage - Talkitna - Anchorage
- 1 night in Anchorage in a hostel 
- 1 night in Talkeetna in a hostel
-consultation and assistance in preparing the necessary documents for receiving permits
-consultation along the route

- all the necessary group climbing equipment (tents, ropes, shovels, gas burners)

- food on the route

- escort by the Russian representative of the Club of 7 Summits in Talkitna and Anchorage

Price does not include

international flight
visa application
climbing insurance
permit
personal equipment

Trip overview

Anchorage - Talkeetna - Airstrip (2200m) - Kahiltna Glacier - Camp Eleven (3300m) - Rangers` Camp (4350m) - High Camp (5200m) - Summit (6194m)

Classic Route - Western Buttress

Climbing McKinley - the highest point in North America - is sometimes compared with climbing Everest in complexity. It is really harsh and cold: tents among deserted snowy expanses, glaciers with lots of cracks, temperatures up to - 25-35 degrees. In general, you need to think carefully before embarking on such an adventure.

The proposed route is the classic route to the summit of McKinley (or Denali, which in the place of the Aleutian language means “high” or “great”) - along the West Buttress. The main part of the path passes through a “closed” glacier (a glacier whose surface is covered with snow, glacial cracks are not visible). This whole snow-ice route does not carry great technical difficulties, although the steepness of individual sections can reach 40–45 degrees. These sections are hung with a railing.

The route (the total length of about 30 km) goes along the Kahiltna glacier through the camps 2400m, 3000m, 3300m. It’s about 15 km on a Ski tour, dragging a sled with a load. Then the skis are left (usually in the Eleven camp at 3300 m) and the cats make a rather long transition, through the "Windy Corner", to a height of 4330 m. This is Advanced Base Camp (or Ranger Camp). The next passage to 5200 to the assault camp and from here, through the "Denali Pass" climb to the top. The route is complicated by very low temperatures (the problem is even going to the toilet) and an abundance of large cracks.

Accommodation
In Anchorage, the hostel stays 1 night on arrival. In Talkitna, living in a house for climbers (several rooms for 6-8 people, such as a mountain shelter).
Meals
Meals in Anchorage are about $ 20-30 a day. In Talkitna, food is cheaper than $ 10-20. Breakfast at the Road House is good (less than $ 10 half).
Staff
Independent trip without guides.
Health and medical insurance
Doctors (volunteers) are on the Kahiltna Glacier, in BL at 4300 (Ranger Camp).
Need to take a first aid kit. In addition, we recommend that you take vitamins a month before the trip
Weather
Daytime on the glacier is about 0, night -10-20. At altitude it can drop to -30-35 ° С. The weather is changeable and unstable. Often, because of the weather, you have to sit out in camps.

1) We have the biggest record of orginizing many commertial technical and altitude expeditions.

2) We offer the scheme of discounts for loyal clients.

3) You can contact your personal advisor in the gear issue for free consultation. Plus free delivery of your personal rented gear to base camp.

Additional information
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