Introducing ourselves:

1. Club 8000 is a closed, elite club of climbers on the highest peaks of the World.

2. Only a person who has climbed on the summit above 8000 meters can become a member of the Club.

3. People who have climbed the peaks of 7000m and above can become candidates for Club membership. That's why we support the Snow Leopard project - the best high-altitude mountaineering school.

 The company "Club 8000"

Under the new project, a new organization was created, the company LLC "Club 8000".

Club 8000 is the first company in Russia that implements the most complex and prestigious project for organizing ascents of all 14 eight-thousand-meter peaks.  Every year we plan 5-6 expeditions to the peaks above 8000 meters.  All our expeditions are led by our super qualified high-altitude guides, climbers of Mount Everest, K2 and other eight-thousandth peaks. The company is headed by Alexander Abramov, the most famous leader of Himalayan expeditions in Russia, an authoritative all over the world, an 11-time climber of Mount Everest.

About 8000.club website

We have opened a new website. On it you will be able to get acquainted with all the climbing programs for 14 eight-thousand-meter and 5 seven-thousand-meter (Snow Leopard).  There will also be an opportunity to register, that is, to become a member of the Club. We will inform you about the progress of our expeditions.

Join the most ambitious and prestigious project "Climbing 14 eight-thousand-meters"!

 The project "14 eight-thousanders" - now it's real! The increased level of training of our Sherpa friends, the improvement of equipment, the use of helicopters and other innovations in logistics. Eight-thousandths have become more accessible. Not tfor everyone, of course, but only to those who want, believe and know how to endure, and everything is real...

Climbing Annapurna (8091m)
March 25 - April 28, $29,150, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Makalu (8481m)
April 12 - June 4, $ 29,250, Lyudmila Korobeshko

Climbing Mount Everest (8848 m)
April 15 - May 27, $ 88,410, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Broad Peak (8051)
June 20 - August 8, $35,870

COMBO Climbing K2 (Chogori) (8611m) and Broad Peak (8051)
June 20 - August 8, $59,900, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Cho-Oyu (8201 m)
September 5 - October 4, $33,000

Climbing Manaslu (8156m)
September 5 - 30, $ 26,420, Sergey Larin

Climbing Dhaulagiri (8167m)
September 5 - October 15, $ 31,900, Lyudmila Korobeshko

Climbing Shisha Pangma (8027m)
September 10 - October 9, $40,910

   The 7 Summits Club in the person of its President Alexander Abramov handed Nims "Golden Ice ax", so we evaluate his achievement ...

What was Nims talking about?

Nothing is impossible! The main thing in the project was precisely this idea! Show that it is possible. Nims sacrificed his pension,  laid his own house. And normal sponsorship appeared only after the completion of the first, most difficult part of the project.

 But at the same time, he wanted to show that Nepalese can be considered  as leaders in high altitude mountaineering. They consider themselves underrated.

Nims paid special attention to the fact that during the project, his team held four rescue actions. Critically, this could affect success. Especially at the very beginning, when the schedule was broken due to the rescue action at Annapurna.

The most difficult was, of course, Kanchenjunga. It was only the fourth day after the descent from Dhaulagiri. Fatigue was incredible. However, when on the descent, Nims's group found three climbers who were unable to move independently, they were assisted. And of the 40 climbers who were in the nearest camp, no one took part in the action.

Nims also climbed with  supplemental oxygen because there can be different situations on the ascent and often other climbers have to be helped. What would be impossible without additional oxygen.

Before K2 he was worried more than usual. After all, no one was able to get to the top before them. Even very strong teams. Under the mountain there were about a hundred climbers. When they arrived at the base camp, everyone turned to Nims with a question about their plans. He answered - today we drink (alcohol) and no plans. And in the morning his team took the storm of the most formidable mountain.

By the way, during the 16-year service in the elite unit of the English army (the Gurkhas are considered by many to be “the best warriors in the world”) Nims did not drink alcohol at all. But now he believes that it can even be useful in the mountains.

On Pakistan's eight-thousanders, the Nims team had difficulties associated with the work of local porters. Nepalis simply did not like the pace of their movement. Therefore, they carried goods under Broad Peak and Gasherbrum independently.

Nims plans to issue book,  ti finish a film, work in his company Elite Himalayan Adventures, make a new route to Cho Oyu, perhaps for new records ...

And! Collaborate with  the 7 Summits Club and work with our groups. And not only in Nepal!

From an interview with Forbes magazine:

I am not really afraid of anything. But there is an old saying: If someone says, “I’m not afraid of dying,” they must either be a Ghurka or they must be lying. I am a Ghurka (laughs)!

Reinhold Messner, the man of the era who first climbed the eight-thousanders: “Nims, I can see in your eyes - it comes from your soul, from your heart - I think you can do this project.”

 Now we made sure that Messner was right. Nims is a very honest, decent, pure in his goals, strong person in every way, and at the same time he is adequately thinking. We are friends now!

Plans of climbing the eight-thousanders by expeditions the 7 summits Club. 2019 -2020

September 2019

 Manaslu (8156), Nepal. The tour-leaders Sergei Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April – May 2020

Lhotse (8516m) + Everest (8848m) from the South - leader Vladimir Kotlyar.

Makalu (8462m, Nepal) – leader Artem Rostovtsev.

Everest (8848m, Tibet) from the North - leader Alexander Abramov.

July 2020

Gasherbrum II (8035m, Pakistan)

K2 (8611m, Pakistan)

September 2020

Cho-Oyu – leader Sergey Larin.

Our expeditions are served by our well-trained team of Sherpas, proven high-altitude guides and well-trained in the provision of camping services. With the ideal organization of expeditions, members have a great chance to achieve success, to reach the summit. Climb all 14 eight-thousand - no longer a fantastic dream, but it can be quite a real goal.

 Today I'm calling from our actual base camp, ABC camp, at 5700 altitude. We are ready to accept congratulations… Tomorrow, September 30, we are already going down and are already leaving for civilization.

 All members of the expedition are happy, feel good and send greetings  to family and friends!

We went down below ABC camp on the day of rest to catch the net. And it managed to be done.   So look at the photos, how we climbed to the camp 1 on 6400. Today we rest. Tomorrow we leave for three days in camps 1 6400 m and 2 7100 m.

 The most famous Princess of China and Tibet Wencheng, revered by the Tibetans as the goddess of mercy, saw us off with a smile and a kind words. By the way, the mountain we are going to is translated as "the Goddess of turquoise". Beautiful!

 September 5^th the expedition to Cho-Oyu starts under the leadership of our Director, Lyudmila Korobeshko. The group consists of three members and a leader. And on September 10^th  Sergey Larin's team goes after them. Our irreplaceable doctor of Everest expeditions and honored guide leads the expedition to Shisha Pangma.  This will be the first attempt of the 7 Summits Club to climb this mountain.

First time in a new place and in a new format!

We are waiting for you at the Trade Center Tsvetnoy - on the 6th floor ...

The presentation starts at 19.00.

In the program:

Alexander Abramov, the permanent leader of all our Everest expeditions and the president of the 7 Summit Club, will talk about the peculiarities of the attempt to climb this year and will present the team ...

Valery Rozov will tell about his records in  basejumping: from the slopes of Mount Everest ...

And for the first time about a new record - a jump from the top of Cho Oyu ...

Ivan Dusharin will share his memories of climbing K2, a legendary mountain, even steeper and more difficult than Everest ....

A new world record for the Russian legend

On October 5, 2016, after a 21-day expedition on the sixth-highest peak in the world – Mount Cho Oyu on the Chinese/Nepalese border – Rozov stood on the edge of his chosen exit spot at 7,700m and leapt into thin air, breaking his own record from 2013 by 500m.

It was my dream and my goal for the last three years.

Valery Rozov

Climbing Cho Oyu is no small accomplishment on its own, let alone BASE jumping from the top of the south-west wall. The expedition itself wasn’t so easy for the group of climbers.

A recent dump of fresh snow and a few days of very bad weather meant the group were unable to reach the exit spot at the first attempt. They had to wait a full week before being able to make another attempt. But once they saw the weather clearing up and allowe a little time for the snow to melt a bit at the exit spot, it was go time.

 Valery Rozov climbing his way up Mount Cho Oyu in the Himalayas

After 90 seconds of pure freefall, Rozov opened his parachute and kept flying for another two minutes before landing safely on the glacier below, at 6,000 meters above sea level.

For the Russian legend, boundaries are made to be pushed and limits are made to be exceeded: nothing seems to be too much of a challenge for him.

The 51-year-old athlete is no stranger to breaking record with a combination of mountaineering and BASE-jumping. In early May of 2013, he set the previous world record for the highest BASE jump by leaping from an altitude of 7,220m from Changtse in the Everest Massif.

http://www.redbull.com/en/adventure/stories/1331825478086/new-record-highest-base-jump-rozov

Lyudmila Korobeshko opened the evening, on the rights of the Queen

Alexander Abramov (the King) gave the floor to Sergei Larin, who told how the expedition under his leadership ahead of time rose to the top of Cho Oyu.

Igor and Natalia Smirnova, as members of the expedition, added to the report  emotions and own photos...

The most great time were given to Oscar Konyukhov. The Audience listened to his story with open mouths, and after the guests filled up the lecturer with questions. Buying information on a record flight around the world in a balloon, carried out by Fedor Konyukhov paint, all new bright colors.

Leader and trainer of the program "Altitude" Alexander Yakovenko reported about the great success of this project (five peaks per season).

Vladimir N. Shataev presented a certificate "Snow leopard" another hero of our time - Dmitry Moskalev.

 Artem Rostovtsev spoke briefly about the competition on trailrunning in the Crimea. We are very grateful to him for introducing us to running sports activities:

Well, to the delight of many fans and lovers of the Crimea, we saw the first public performance of our Crimean teachers rock climbing Natalia Kartashova. She, of course, was worried. But performed brilliantly. Many, I am sure, listening to her story on the background of the Crimean types on the screen began to change their plans and to embed them in another visit to the Crimea.

The second speech, Oscar Konyukhov was shorter, but no less interest. This time it was about two new projects of his Father Fyodor. As usual, it should be supercandy: rise above all in a hot air balloon (in the stratosphere) and down below all in the Marianas trench.

As usual after a fun lottery where lucky to even those who've never had much luck, alas the time has come to part...

Until next time, friends !

Sergey Larin, head of the expedition: So, on September 30th at 9 am 5 participants of the 7 Summits Club expedition were on the top of Mount Cho Oyu. "Turquoise Goddess" has taken the above-mentioned part of the team and almost let go. The composition of the group: Vasily Kernitsky, Dmitry Kuznetsov, Igor Smirnov, Zygmunt Berdychowski (Poland), Sergey Larin. With the support of four sherpas: Nima, Pasang, Doji, Mutuk ...

 On the same day we went down to 6400, and the next - in the ABC camp. Now organizational problems began at an early depart of the team and changing tickets dates.

 The second part of the team starts to climb 3 October ...

Sherpas Team

Today the team of the Seven Summits Club - five Members and four Sherpas - at 9 am Nepal time stood on the top of Cho Oyu. Some of us are still standing. Now we begin the descent. Team: Sergey Larin, Dmitry Kuznetsov, Dmitry Smirnov, Zygmunt Berdychowski and Vasily Kernitsky. I hope I did not forget any one. And four Sherpas. Congratulations are accepted only in the ABC camp. In our expedition team there are two more participants, but they work on a different route. Today, they do not climb. Sergey Larin.

23.09. Natalia Smirnova went to Lhasa, she has such a program. We are in C1. Weather forecast unstable and often changing. Therefore, we will not acclimate as expected on the theory, but on the basis of weather windows.

24.09. We went up to 250 meters from the C1 (6400m) and descended to ABC. The weather deteriorated again, this time coincided with the forecast.

18.09. We went from the base camp for acclimatization, we scored 500 meters.

19.09.We collected our camp and prepared for moving loads in the Middle Camp and ABC camp. When weighed to give a total weight - 2.5 tons. Participants left by foot, the goods had to leave later on a truck. But the truck will not allow by the police. Now we are sitting in the intermediate camp, Middle Camp at 5400 and forward to their belongings., who slowly drive up on  motorcycles. Everything else is good.

Sergey Larin, leader of the expedition. 

Diary of the expedition on Cho Oyu. 15.09 we arrived in Shigatse (3800), the second largest city in Tibet. We walked around the city and who wanted could buy  pillows. While there was not a single day without rain.

 16.09. In the morning we went to the monastery, the second largest in Tibet. There we worshiped the world's largest Buddha statue. Then we went to Tingri (4300).

 17.09. After breakfast we drove to the base camp. In Tingri Chinese began to build housing estates and road towards Cho Oyu. Therefore, after 1.5 hours we were in base camp (4900). On Cho Oyu - it is rather an intermediate camp, than the base, as we plan to spend only two nights here. All the rest of the time camp ABC (5700)  will be our base. Everything goes according to plan, the members feel good.

Sergey Larin from Kathmandu:

Preparations for the expedition to Cho Oyu continues. Finally, all participants gathered in Kathmandu. All luggage was delivered on time! Sherpa Team of 7 people today early in the morning went to Tibet with loads through Gyirong. Since the road through Zhangmu is still closed after the earthquake. Monsoon is not over yet, every day in Kathmandu rains. Today we will have a gala dinner dedicated to the start of the expedition. Tomorrow our plan is to fly  to Lhasa at 11 a.m.

The legendary mountaineer, basejumper, skydiver and holder of numerous records - Valery Rozov is taking part in the expedition. He plans to establish another world record!

Members of the expedition:

- Valery Rozov

- Nick Lebanidze (Georgia)

- Zygmunt Berdychowsky (Poland)

- Dmitry Kuznetsov

- Igor Smirnov

- Natalia Smirnova

- Vasily Kernitsky

September 6th, Sergei Larin flies from Moscow to Kathmandu. And all participants will gather in the capital of Nepal, Sept. 11^th. Then - they will go to Lhasa and then to the base camp of Cho Oyu.

Evgeny Voronov became the first Russian who committed descent from Cho Oyu on a snowboard, for the first time for Russia from the peaks above 8000 meters. Eugene reached the summit of Cho Oyu 8201m in the team of the 7 Summits Club under the direction of Alex Abramov. Then he made ​​a descent on a snowboard to the first camp at an altitude of 6400m (up to stones). The descent was "clean" without the use of fixed ropes (more than 500 m.)

That evening, Eugene went on foot to the camp ABC 5700m, where the team went down day later.

Ekatherina Pozdeyeva – Anatoly Mensky - Kyrill Muraviev - Oleg Pimenov - Alexander Abramov - Georgy Kuzmin - Evgeny Voronov.

Now is the time for Nepal 9-45. We have plenty of time, and with great difficulty climbed to the summit of Cho Oyu. Seven members and six Sherpas.

Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!

And now ..

From Camp 2 to Camp 1 Eugene Voronov went by snowboard. We all were frozen at Camp 2 and tired as dogs. Only Eugene hovered over the steep slopes like a bird.

The real picture is as follows: the route we have mastered, all got up and spent the night at an altitude of 7100m. All are healthy and ready for a rest before attempting to assault. Now we have three nights to spend in the ABC at 5700m, and then go on the final climb.

The team:

Catherine Pozdeeva (Khanty-Mansiysk), George Kuzmin (Moscow, Russia), Anatoly Mensky (Tyumen), Cyril Muraviev (St. Petersburg) and Oleg Pimenov (Latvia, Russia). Leader: Alex Abramov.

All were satisfied with the Saturday Day and vowed to clean up at home, so everywhere was clean. Tomorrow we have, the whole team, go to sleep at 7000m.

On the evening of culinary party. Tomorrow we go up for 2 days. No Communication.

Climbing from the intermediate camp (5300) in the ABC camp (5700). The ABC camp will be the main location during the expedition.

Leave the Middle camps. The snow begins.

Camp ABC, Sunny and frosty morning

According to reports from the Himalayas, the mountains have still a lot of snow. But on Cho Oyu, the Sherpas have already fixed up ropes to camp 2 at a height of 7300 meters.

According to reports from the Himalayas, the mountains have still a lot of snow. But on Cho Oyu, the Sherpas have already fixed up ropes to camp 2 at a height of 7300 meters.

While climbing we in the city. We are eating, watching, eating again. In General, it is an acclimatization, baby. There was a meeting with the Minister of Sports of Tibet Mr.Dava Tzering.

We agreed next year to take command of the Tibetans on Elbrus. And the Tibetans will take the Russian team at the Northern Summit of Mount Everest - Changtse.

Tomorrow we are going higher. Already at 3, 900m.

Departure from Kathmandu

Arrival in Lhasa

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from the eternal city Kathmandu. This expedition on Cho Oyu, the peak with height 8201 meters. Now our expedition begins. Yesterday almost all the participants of the expedition came to Nepal. It: Catherine Pozdeeva (Khanty-Mansiysk), George Kuzmin (Moscow, Russia), Anatoly Mensky (Tyumen), Cyril Muraviev (St. Petersburg) and Oleg Pimenov (Latvia, Russia). Another member of the expedition Eugeny Voronov (Perm) will join the group on the 13th of September. Now we arrange questions with equipment and going to look at cultural values Nepal, Patan city. I also want to say that our office in Kathmandu greeted us very warmly. And this year they have so many different groups.....

Dear friends,

I wish you a Healthy, Prosperous and Happy New Year 2013!!!!

Asian Trekking's Celebration of 30th Anniversary:

Completing the year 2012, was a landmark for Asian Trekking. It marked the completion of our 30 year journey since being established in 1982.

To celebrate the 30th Anniversary of Asian Trekking in adventure tourism, we organised a tree plantation programme followed by a picnic on 30th Dec 2012 at Lakhuri Bhanjyang, above Kathmandu Valley. Among our 122 staffs (office and permanent field staff) most of them were present on the occasion.

On the occasion we felicitated, with certificates and rewards, our staffs who have been with us since the beginning in 1982. I feel proud to mention that these loyal and hard working staff are Suk Bahadur Ale (Sukre), Kali Bahadur Basnet (Kalu), Mingmar Tamang, Bhai Kaji Tamang (Maila Tamang) and Bala Bahadur Magar (Maila Magar). And, to my great surprise and honour, the field staff presented me with a mini stupa as a "token of love." It is because of our staffs' hard work, honesty, passion and dedication that Asian Trekking is where it is today.

An interaction program between office staff and field staffs were also held on that day. Various topics were discussed such as improvement in Asian Trekking’s services, welfare of the staffs, upgrading equipment to meet the existing requirement, required training for the climbing guide as well as trekking guides, cooks, kitchen boy etc. Though we completed 30 years, we are excitedly looking forward to the next 30 years.

Joint Tourism Coordination Meeting Between Nepal and China

On 17th and 18th December I attended the Sixth Meeting of the Joint Tourism Coordination Committee between the Government of Nepal and the People's Government of Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) which was held in Lhasa. I was a member of the Nepalese delegation, in the capacity Mountain and Adventure Tourism Expert.

The meeting was held in a very cordial and friendly atmosphere. The 17 member Nepalese delegation was headed by Mr. Mohan Krishna Sapkota, Joint Secretary of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation of the Government of Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region delegation was led by Mr. Yu Yun Gui, Director of Tibet Tourism Administration of the People’s Government of Tibet Autonomous Region.

The purpose of the meeting was to promote and expand cooperation in the areas of tourism and trade to the mutual benefits of both Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region.

Meeting with China Tibet Mountaineering Association

Also, on 19th December 2012 I had a meeting with China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) general secretary including other authorities of CTMA over the Tibet Expedition.

We discussed about the cooperation of future expeditions and how to run the expeditions smoothly without disruptions, visa issues and border closures. We also discussed over the issues of rope fixing, route making and permit fees on Mt. Everest, Mt. Ch-oyu, Mt.. Shishapangma and other mountains inTibet. CTMA assured me that the future expedition will run smoothly. I firmly believe that our mutual cooperation and our frequent dialogue will bring fruitful results in the development of mountain tourism both in Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region. I will continue to voice our concerns with the authorities for the betterment of mountaineering and tourism in the Himalayas.

First Aid and Medical Training:

Continuing our committment of safety in the mountains, this year again Asian Trekking organized first aid and medical training for the staff. A total of 40 staff participated in a two day training program.

The course focused on First Aid, Patient Stabilization, CPR, High Altitude Sickness and Response, etc.

Our sincere gratitude goes to Dr. Pranav Koirala, Dr. Kamal Thapa and Dr. Simant Thapa of the Mountain Medicine Society for conducting the training.

Maurice Herzog, French mountain climber, dies at 93:

I also have sad news to share. Legendary French mountaineer and author Maurice Herzog, died at the age of 93 on 13th the December 2012. Maurice and his climbing partner, Louis Lachenal ascended Annapurna I, the 10th-highest mountain in the world, on June 3, 1950. Doing so, they became the first person in history to successfully climb to the top of an eight thousand m peak.

Following this feat, Maurice wrote the hugely popular book, Annapurna, which has been translated into dozens of languages and estimated to have sold more than 20 million copies worldwide. First published in 1951, Maurice's book put Nepal on the world map ‘for the first time’ and greatly promoted Nepal as a mountaineering and tourism destination.

I am very proud to have known him as a close friend. His passing is a great loss, though his legacy survives in all the mountaineers and adventurers he inspired.

Asian Trekking and I express our heartfelt condolences to his family and pray for his peaceful eternal journey.

Thank you for your support:

Lastly, it is my pleasure to keep you all up to date as to our activities here in the Himalaya. If you have any questions please do let me know. I thank you for your support in the past and look forward to our cooperation in the future.

Ang Tshering Sherpa

Asian Trekking (P) Ltd

www.asian-trekking.com

Putrin Valery (1940 r.) - A graduate of the Minsk Radio Engineering Institute (1964), studied science, has three certificates on inventions (1976, 1977). Master of sports of cycling and mountaineering (1970). He has participated in the national championship on mountaineering (1968, 1970, 1971, 1974, 1979), was the trainer of the international mountaineering camps in 1976, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1983 and 1984. Until the last days Putrin worked as chief specialist at the Research Institute of Radio.

In 1987 Putrin was a leader of expedition of  USSR national team, that made the first winter climb on the peak of Communism. In 1991, he was the head of the first Russian Himalayan expedition, which opened a new route to the summit of Cho Oyu (8201 m).

Photos from Mt. McKinley expedition

On Kilimanjaro

"The Congress of the climbers" will be dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the first Soviet and the 20th anniversary of the first Russian ascents on Everest.

All climbers along the list of summiters are invited to participate. Beginning in 1982, and by 2012 more than 150 climbers from the former Soviet Union have climbed Mount Everest.

7 Summits Club acts as the lead partner in the Russian Mountaineering Federation organizing a meeting of climbers on Everest. It is no accident:

Alexander Abramov and 7 Summits Club had nine expeditions to Everest, starting in 2003. They all ended by reaching the summit. About 100 man/climbing accomplished it. So that members of our expeditions to Everest, the 7 Summits Club members will form a significant part of the invitees.

This event will be the official name is "Congress of the climbers." The exact time and the program will be announced later. But it is clear that it will be about historic climbs in 1982 and 1992, on the climb of the North Face and so on. Climbers will be awarded honorary by signs "Summiter of Mount Everest", there will show pi.

But "Congress" - is not only and not so much a meeting of sumiters, it is, above all, a meeting of climbers with the general public and the media.

We invite all members of the 7 Summits Club, all our friends, all who are interested in this topic!

Watch for information on our website.

"Congress climbers" take place on 8 November (Thursday) in the lecture hall of thePolytechnicMuseum

Moscow, New Square 3/4,

The ascent took place in the aftermath of the avalanche that claimed several lives a week before. Although over-shadowed by this tragedy, the climbers decided to make one last attempt to climb the peak because of the years of preparation and mental commitment. The fact that they had done everything possible to help the victims of the accident helped them make the decision. "The decision to try for the summit after such a tragedy was a difficult one, but ultimately I decided to climb in their honour and it also helped me cope with the emotional challenges I was also going through from being first on-scene to such a tragedy,” said Benedikt Böhm.

For Böhm and Haag, the journey up Manaslu began five years earlier. In 2007 they travelled to Manaslu with the same goal in mind, but had to turn back at 7,300 metres due to the danger of avalanches. This time around, after acclimatizing for weeks and a whole day of decision-making in base camp, the team had a stroke of luck: a weather window and stable snowpack.

Setting off at 6pm from base camp at 5,000 m and without oxygen, Benedikt and Sebastian had almost 3,300 vertical metres of climbing ahead of them to reach the summit. Conditions deteriorated at 7,400 metres and the three climbers were battling fierce storms and icy cold. Böhm, who went on ahead of the team, waited for Haag in an unoccupied tent at camp two. After an hour it was time to get underway again, and they considered abandoning the attempt, but mustered the effort to continue the ascent as a group. The wind eased off as the sun went down. Benedikt Böhm went the final 150 metres alone to reach the summit at 9 in the morning, after five hours of climbing from camp two.

Happy, but humbled in remembrance of the accident a few days previously, he did not pose for the usual victory shot on the summit. Instead he dedicated the ascent to the climbers who had died in the accident. After waiting for an hour he went back to meet with Sebastian Haag and Constantin Pade who chose to turn back 150 meters short of the summit to save their energy for a safe ski descent. “The most important thing of any expedition is first and foremost to come home safely,” commented Sebastian Haag. “The events of the past few weeks have given me even more respect for the power of these mountains and my first goal is to see my family again.” Skiing together, the group reached base camp after 8 hours of descent. The total climb, including speed ascent and ski descent, took 23.5 hours. Typical climbs up Manaslu using oxygen take four days.

It was an unbelievable achievement, not just for Benedikt Böhm, but for the whole team on Manaslu. According to official records, it is the first ever speed ascent of Manaslu coupled with a subsequent ski descent.

Program of the expedition

Cho Oyu (8201 m) is the sixth highest mountain in the world, located a short distance to the west from Everest in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal along the Tibetan border.

There's no really technical sections and the objective dangers are close to non-existent. Its relatively easy access makes it an attractive climb for someone with limited time, as it can be attempted in roughly 6 weeks round trip. Base Camp is accessible by jeep and it is possible to reachKathmanduin a very long day from Base Camp.

Because of it's ease of access, ABC is often crowded with a large number of expeditions. Just west of Cho Oyu is the Nangpa La, the old trade route between the Khumbu Sherpas and Tibet.

It was the third such peak climbed, and the first climbed by light expedition and in Autumn. The mountain was first climbed on October 19, 1954 via the north-west ridge by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama of an Austrian expedition. Cho Oyu was the fifth 8000 meters peak to be climbed, after Annapurna in June 1950, Mount Everest, Nanga Parbat and K2.

Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck (34) has successfully started into his ninth Himalaya-Expedition. He climbed in 10 1/2 hours and alone the over 2000 meter high south-west-face of Shisha Pangma, with its 8027 meters of altitude the 14th highest mountain in the world.

Ueli Steck has successfully implemented his idea "Speed" from the Alps into the Himalaya: to climb big difficulties in big altitudes and this as fast as possible.

Ueli Steck acclimatised himself one month in the Khumbu Valley on the south side of Mount Everest (Nepal) and he moved on from Kathmandu to Shisha Pangma on April 10, 2011.

Shisha Pangma is the only peak over 8000 meters which lies completely in Tibet (China). Two days lasted the trek to the basecamp (5250 meters). After another two days he went with his Canadian partner Don Bowie to the advanced basecamp (5800 meters) at the foot of the wall. Bowie felt not acclimtazed enough and in poor health so that he decided not to go for an attempt. Because of the favourable weather forecast Bowie agreed with Steck, that Ueli should go for an attempt alone.

On Saturday at 22.30 hours Ueli Steck started to climb. After 10 1/2 hours he summitted with the 2000 meter high south-west-face his third summit over 8000 meters and was less than 20 hours later back to basecamp.

Ueli Steck and Don Bowie will now continue their expedition. They will try to climb together Cho Oyu from the north side. Cho Oyu is with 8201 meters the six highest mountain in the world.

In our office: Mikhail Yarin, Alex Abramov, Gleb Sokolov and Pavel Shabalin

Makalu. Polish woman climber Kinga Baranovska, which goes to his eight eighåt-thousanders, will be there a major star ... Slovak Peter Hamor plans, high-speed solo climb without oxygen. For acclimatization he plans to climb Lobuche East and Pumori.

Lhotse. Carlos Soria, 72-year-old Spanish climber intends to climb its 10 th eight-.thousander. In the company with him will climb Carlos Pauner and Juan Oiarzabal, who has now 24 climbs on eight thousanders (overall record). Austrian paragliding Mike Kueng wants to flight over the summit ridge (8500 m), starting from the south. On account of this 42-year old athlete is a lot of records, including a flight at an altitude of 10,100 meters. But the goal is very difficult: from the bottom up in the Himalayas nobody could rise above 7300 m yet. Austrian already is flying in the vicinity of Namche Bazaar, as part of his great expedition "paratrekkers.

Soria (left), Kueng and below - the planned route record

On Everest should be lively as usual ...

In addition to numerous commercial expeditions, many people will try to speak own word on the slopes of tallest peak of the planet.

In the focus - Basque woman climber Edurne Pasaban, which tries to climb the highest peak without the aid of artificial oxygen. If successful, all 14 eight she would have "made" without oxygen. Also will try a clean, oxygen-free ascent a 35-year-old Australian climber Allie Pepper .. And men… once again going to climb without oxygen Englishman David Tait. Before that he planned to climb a new route on Lhotse. Mexican David Liano is back to his project climb Everest from both sides during the season. Without oxygen, and one day plans to go to the summit an Ecuadorian Ramiro Tesalema. Brazilian Rodrigo Raineri announced his intention to descend from the top of a glider.

 Allie Pepper - after Cho Oyu climbs Everest without oxygen

Sherpas go for at least 3 record. Famous Apa go to the top once again.

Pemba Dorji plans for a day to visit both Everest and Lhotse. His brothers dragged to the top of the world's tent - they plan to stay at an altitude of 8848 meters over 24 hours.

On Cho-Oyu the most interesting fact is that refusal to participate in the expedition Japanese Hiro Takeuchi. In solidarity with the victims of the catastrophic earthquake compatriots. Takeuchi - the first real contender for the 14 eight-thousanders from the country which was a quarter-century was among the leaders of Himalayan mountaineering. He remained only two: Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri

The following is the detail of the permits issued to expedition teams for 8000m Peaks by the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation in this Autumn Season 2010:

2 Teams of 1 member each on Mt. Everest (Nepal Side)

2 Teams with a total 6 members on Mt. Lhotse

8 Teams with a total of 86 members on Mt. Manaslu

2 teams with total of 9 members Mt. Dhaulagiri from Nepal Himalayas

The above figures do not include the number of high altitude Sherpa (HAS) climbers.

Tibet Expeditions - Autumn 2010:

The following are the teams permitted on 8000m Peaks in Tibet:

2 Teams with a total of 12 climbers on Mt. Everest (including HAS)

25 Teams with a total of 340 climbers on Mt. Cho-oyu (including HAS)

3 Teams with a total of 45 climbers on Mt. Shishapangma(including HAS)

Death and Casualties:

Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m):

An avalanche on Mt. Dhaulagiri killed three Japanese climbers, Osumu Tanabe(49 yrs),Toshio Yamamoto(36 yrs) and Daisuke Honda(32 yrs) and a Nepalese Guide Pasang Geylu Sherpa on 28th September.

Mt. Cho-Oyu (8201m):

The leader of the Cho-Oyu South West Face Expedition 2010, Walter Nones(39 yrs) of Italy had a fatal fall on 3rd October and died while climbing Mt. Cho-Oyu from South West Face New Route.

Mt. Manaslu (8163m) Base Camp:

Mr. Nobuaki Kuwabara(61 yrs) of Japan diet at the Base Camp of Manaslu on 24 September 2010. He was member of "Adventure Guides Mt. Manaslu Exp.2010" under the Leadership of Mr. Kenji Kondo of Japan.

We pray that may all the departed souls rest in peace and express our condolence to their family members and friends.

UIAA General Assembly Highlight:

The UIAA General Assembly which was held from 6th-9th October in Bormio was very fruitful. The outcome of the assembly is beneficial to all the members of UIAA. It focused on the necessity of the Expedition Commission to be re-activated. On the sidelines of the 2010 UIAA General Assembly, leading members of the global climbing community discussed the concerns of climbers and challenges of undertaking expeditions to high and remote mountain ranges.

The next general assembly of UIAA will be held on 5th to 8th October 2011 and the general assembly of UAAA will be held on 9th October 2011. Both the events will be hosted by Nepal in Kathmandu. Since the same year Nepal is celebrating Nepal Tourism Year 2011, I hope that both the events will be instrumental in promoting Nepal Tourism Year 2011 to make it a great success, as well as bringing many benefits to the mountaineering community.

Summit of Manaslu

Explorerweb

October 15 at 12:30 PM Eric Larsen plus Sherpas Dawa Gylatzen, Tshering (Chhering) Dorje, Pasang Temba and Dawa Tenzing bagged the first Everest fall season summit in four years. The Terramar sponsored expedition concluded Larsen’s quest to reach the “Three Poles” in record time.

Serial Everest summiteer lost on Baruntse The loss of Chhewang Nima Sherpa put a sad end to the climbing autumn season, wrapped up in a special report by Ang Tshering Sherpa. 19x Everest summiter Chhewang Nima Sherpa was caught in an avalanche while fixing ropes on Baruntse upper sections.

Marty Schmidt’s “shortest Himalaya expedition ever” Marty cut his solo 4-day Lhotse attempt short in order to guide a client on Ama Dablam.

Jordises out of Lhotse Spanish “K2 pirates” Corominas and Tosas finally threw in the towel on Lhotse, due to dangerous conditions.

Shisha Pangma South Koreans Chang-Ho Kim, 41, and Sung-Ho Suh summited Shisha Pangma at 2:15PM on October 14, after climbing the British route on the peak’s south side. Chang-Ho Kim claims Shisha as his twelfth 8000er without supplementary O2; Sung-Ho Kim his tenth.

Cho Oyu summit mysteries German Ralf Arnold told ExplorersWeb he was the first Cho Oyu summiteer of the season, topping out October 1, 2010 at 10:30AM in a 15 hours roundtrip from C2. An October 7 Cho Oyu summit claimed by Argentinean Adrian Sanchez was questioned after the alleged summit picture turned out shot in C1 by expedition mate Marcelo Hernandez.

Dhaulagiri Search parties found the body of Daisuke Honda, one of the four climbers swept by an avalanche, buried in snow at about 5,000 meters on Dhaula.

Manaslu Together with a Japanese climber and his two Sherpas, Mexican couple Badía Bonilla and Mauricio López reached Manaslu summit sans O2 at 2:40PM, local time on October 1, some time after the HiMex and Carlos Pauner’s groups. “We were the last to summit that day,” Badia debriefed back in Kathmandu.

Blind Everest summiteer Erik Weihenmayer led a team of war-battered soldiers to the top of the 20,075-foot Lobuche on October 13.

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m) was topped out on October 8 by Dutch Dick Valk, Kaji Sherpa and expedition leader Paul Boslooper.

While Nepal was celebrating its four-day Tihar holiday, Nepali pilot Sabin Basnet and technician Purna Awale were scouring the upper ranges of Mt Ama Dablam – meaning mother's necklace – a Himalayan range whose main peak juts up to 6812m above sea level. They had been sent by domestic airline Fishtail Air to airlift two Japanese climbers who had fallen ill.

After successfully rescuing the first climber, the two men went back for the second when high winds buffeted the aircraft and caused it to crash while trying to land. Two other helicopters sent to locate the missing chopper and its crew had to search the area for hours before they could locate the wreck and the bodies. Fishtail officials said they have now started the difficult operation of bringing the bodies down from the inaccessible mountain range.

This is the second air accident since August that resulted in casualties. In August, an aircraft crashed near Kathmandu valley, killing all 14 people on board, including a Japanese tourist. Last month, three Japanese climbers and their Nepali guide were swept away by an avalanche while climbing Mt Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest peak in the world.

The best high-altitude pilot, a real pioneer of rescue above 7000 m -  Sabin Basnet

With swiss team after Lantang flight to find Tomas Humar

After epic Dhaulagiri rescue withh his swiss teachers

Just a few climbers remain at base camp. Only the Koreans decided to starve and wait at base camp the weather, which by forecasters was promised in 5 days.

Our climbers, have tickets from Kathmandu on October 16, so they can not stay for another 10 days.

As they say: "The Mountain does not allow me go!" We go back to come again.

Manaslu

Hard season: the Himalayas against the climbers ... first autumn climbing and loss of ...

 September 28 Japanese climbers from the team of the Association of Mountain Guides have got in an avalanche on the way from base camp to Camp 1 on the slope of Dhaulagiri. Mountain Guides Osamu Tanabe (49 years), Toshio Yamamoto (1936), Daisuke Honda (32) and Sherpa Pasang Gyelu Sherpa are died. Tanabe was the leader of Himalayan mountaineering in the country of the Rising Sun ". He has had 9 eight-thousanders, including Mount Everest in winter by south-west face, K2 and Makalu by a new routes.

 Osamu Tanabe

Season on Manaslu is more successful. Although not without sacrifice. A Japanese mountaineer has died at the base camp.

Success of the Spaniards is in a focus. Carlos Pauner reached his 10th eight-thousander. And Carlos Soria, who turns 71 years old, went on the 9 th. This year veteran of the Spanish mountaineering completed the program of "Seven Summits", and plans "to make" 14X8000 before 2014

Soria and Pauner in the base camp

In the team of Himex a large group of climbers reached the summit of Manaslu on October 1. Russell Brice CEO (58 years) for the fourteenth time climbed peaks above 8,000 meters. True, 9 times it was Cho-Oyu. For Sirdar Phurba it was, by the way, 23th 8000 m peak (15 times Everest) and he became the leader among the Sherpas in this field.

Guides of Himex on the summit: Adrian, Russel and Marc

And the first of the season on top Manaslu was a leader of the expedition Dream Guides Kenton Cool. He led the team of three members and three sherpas. According to Kenton, tireless Dorjee Sherpa make almost all the way to the summit as first. From the summit of Manaslu Cool and one of the clients Andrew Eggleston went to the camp 4 on skis. It was September, 30th.

According to information from an expedition leader Fabrizio Zangrilli, 1th October, some German climber managed to reach the summit of Cho Oyu. This immediately restored power to several companies, they have resumed the upward movement in the camps.

Later it turned out that they were two experienced climbers 42-year-old Austrian Rupert Hauer and guide of the expedition 39-year-old Alix von Melle, known as a girlfriend of Luis Stitzinger. Ascent from Camp 3 to the top took 6,5 hours. There was a very strong wind, but good visibility.

If a forecast will be justified, we could expeat another climbs on Cho Oyu. We hope that among the lucky winners will be the names of our climbers.

Chao, Walter ...

Italian Walter Nones was found dead under the SW face of Cho Oyu, he was 39 years old. During a reconnaissance of a new route for south-western face, he climbed to an altitude of 6,800 meters with the Sherpas. Later he came out already in the solo assault. Misfortune.

Quality of fixed ropes leaves much to be desired. The group of Tibetan climbers who have fix it did not return to base camp to continue operations.

Two Sherpas, who yesterday had stopped by a small avalanche, today tried to reach the summit. But they again got on top of a slope in an avalanche, which, fortunately, it was scattered along the slope, and no one caught. As a result, no one managed yet to reach the summit. But the way to the top now is almost trodden.

We have scheduled two nights at 7150m, then at 7500m and will be on the way back tomorrow. Descend to thr base camp: for rest and preparation for the main summit assault.