Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Report for the past period.

 May 7 - moved from BC to C1. A little faster than last time - in just 9 hours. The icefall melted, the cracks became wider.

 May 8 - moved from C1 to C2. By evening we learned that the advance group had been walking from C2 to C3 for as long as 12-14 hours... This made us a little... wary. We felt that our plans could change. However, we were told by radio that the plans were in effect and the advance group (the hanging team and the combined group) was ready to go on the assault in a few hours. Around midnight we were woken up and told that plans had changed and the upper group had decided to spend an extra day in the upper camp.

 May 9 - woke up late. Anyway, it was a forced rest day at 6200... Celebrated Victory Day and Igor Smirnov's birthday. Walked up a bit.

 May 10 - early rise and exit at 5 am to C3. The crossing turned out to be really tough - a snow-ice slope with falling snow. By the end - 35-40 degrees. There was nowhere to rest at all. We got there quickly - in about 10 hours. But we were exhausted. The camp is not conducive to rest and recovery at all - a tiny area at an angle of 25-30 degrees. The tents are crooked, it is impossible to walk between them without crampons and self-belay. There are 3-5 people in each tent. Boiling water is a huge problem. By this time, the ropers and climbers from the international team had just started to return from the summit (their journey to the summit took 15-20 hours).

In the end, we decided to leave after 9 p.m. We slept for 2-3 hours (whoever could). And by 10 p.m. we somehow got out of the tents. And immediately a steep snow-ice slope. We passed it in an hour and a half. Then the ridge. And then - an oblique traverse. All the ropes are under snow. Everything needs to be re-tracked and the ropes dug out. Snow above the knee. We walked very slowly. And then the wind picked up. We all hoped that it would die down. But it only got stronger. It was very cold. After 2 hours of fighting the wind and snow, the Sherpas said that it was dangerous to go further in such a wind. And we ourselves realized this. So we decided to turn around.

There were many adventures on the descent, including an avalanche, which miraculously only touched us with the edge. By the evening of the same day we were already at the Base Camp.

May 11 - today. We are already on our way to Kathmandu. We are resting and exchanging impressions in Pokhara. We decided that even if we go to another mountain, we will keep the previous name - "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club".

The international team has already left today. They will go a day ahead of us.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

We started the morning, as always, with exercise. Today, the legendary Pakistani climber Sajit Sadpara, son of Ali Sadpara, joined us. He is doing the 14x8000 project without O2.

After breakfast, we held oxygen classes and distributed the Sherpas. The exit is scheduled for May 7. And the assault on the summit, accordingly, is on May 10. So tomorrow is another day of rest and preparation.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

In the evening, we held a teleconference with Yura Lukyanov (he is already in the hotel in Kathmandu, he was discharged from the hospital). Our immediate plans are to stay at the Base Camp on May 4 and 5. Possibly, we will leave on May 6 if the weather improves.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Photos from the Sherpa team. Photographed in the area of Camp 3.

By lunchtime, a helicopter arrived with a new member of the international expedition. He brought us a parcel from Yury Lukyanov with kazy, red caviar, chocolate and other goodies.

That night, from May 1 to 2, the team of rope-riggers attempted to storm the summit. They reached 8000 (lost time by climbing false couloirs several times) and after almost 20 hours of storming, they turned around.

In the evening, we checked the forecasts - unfortunately, there will be snowfalls in the coming days. So we will sit in the BC and wait for the weather to improve.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

On the first day we reached Camp 1 (5700m) in 10 hours, gaining more than 1000 m vertically. It was a tough climb - many steep ropes on rocks and ice, cracks...The next day we moved to Camp 2 (6200m). This climb was much easier - only 500 m of difference and easy snow terrain.

This morning we celebrated May 1st with a friendly line in Camp 2 and cheerfully ran down. True, we almost got lost in the fog, which began just when we were approaching the icefall. But everything worked out, we found the way. Everyone went down to the camp alive and well.

Now we are resting.

We are planning an assault exit no earlier than May 4-5. Now the ropes are fixed to Camp 3. But tomorrow the first attempt to storm the summit by the team of Sherpas fixing the route and two members of the international team (a Pakistani and a Taiwanese are spending the night today in Camp 3 without oxygen) is possible.

Head of the expedition to Dhaulagiri Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club"! On April 29, the weather improved a little, and we went on the first acclimatization rotation. at 5.20 from the camp. One of our participants felt unwell and with the help of the Sherpas returned to the base camp. The rest continued their journey and reached Camp 1 in 10.5 hours.

On April 30, the group successfully ascended from Camp 1 to Camp 2. All the participants who ascended feel well. The weather is also good. We spend the night here today - at an altitude of 6200. Tomorrow we descend to Base Camp.

** The leader of the Lakpa Makalu Sherpa team reports that he hopes to reach the summit by May 1 and fix the ropes on most of the route.

The list of the route preparers: Taraman Tamang, Pem Dorchi Sherpa, Phurba Kusang Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Chhumbi Sherpa, leader of Lakpa (Makalu) Sherpa.

Today we had a day of waiting for the weather to improve at Dhaulagiri Base Camp. It was snowing, the wind was howling, and at times the noise of avalanches was audible. By evening the sky cleared up and the stars appeared. So tomorrow early in the morning we are planning a two-night rotation for acclimatization. Tomorrow - to C1 (5700), the day after tomorrow we will move to C2 (6200) and on May 1 - we will return to the base. Everyone is cheerful and healthy.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

 Today we spent the whole day preparing for tomorrow's planned exit for the first rotation. We packed our things for 3 days, selected food, checked the gear. It started snowing at lunchtime. About 10-15 centimeters fell. After 17:00 the sun came out, avalanches began to descend. Then it started snowing again, then fog descended.

 A small consultation was held over dinner. Its result was the decision to postpone the exit for one more day. According to the forecast, tomorrow will also snow all day. On the one hand, it's sad, I really want to get moving already. But safety comes first. So tomorrow we'll be back at the base camp.

 P.S. - we did our morning exercises. As usual. We even did some push-ups. And in the evening, traditional spa treatments awaited us.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Apart from the seven of us, there is only one international team in the camp near Dhaulagiri. Also 7 people. We got to know them better at the Puja. The son of the famous Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara, Sajit, is here. Three strong climbers - Czech Klara, Iranian Aram and a German climber who is going without Sherpas and without O2. And a few more climbers, whom we know from last year on Dhaulagiri.

Unfortunately, snowfall is forecasted for the near future. But nevertheless, we are planning an acclimatization rotation for the day after tomorrow, April 28. All the participants are doing well. They are already eager to get into the fight - they have gained strength during the two-day rest.

And this morning we also saw off Natasha Smirnova. Her trek program is over. And she flew to Kathmandu, where she was reunited with her daughter Nina, who has just returned from trekking to Everest (now she dreams of Elbrus and Kilimanjaro).  Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

At 18.30 we had an aperitif as always. Today we tried kyzy from Yury Lukyanov from Kazakhstan. It is not inferior to the magical lard that Ira Zisman fed us throughout the entire trek. We washed it all down with the signature borscht from Dendy.

Tomorrow we have Puja - the consecration of the camp. And we see Natasha Smirnova off to the mainland. Her trek program is coming to an end. In 1-2 days we plan to go to C2. But according to the forecast, there will be heavy snowfall the day after tomorrow. For now, we are thinking and monitoring the forecast.
Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Today we overcame the highest pass on our way - French Pass. And by lunchtime we entered the camp, where our favorite chef Dendy and his team warmly greeted us. A scarf on the neck, an aperitif, chicken water soup, onions and garlic. Everything as we like.
Now we will rest in the camp at 4700 for the next 2-3 days. We will arrange a bathhouse and a big wash.
Head of the expedition to Dhaulagiri Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April 23. Hello everyone from the Dhaulagiri expedition! Today we completed part of the trek from Dhampus Base Camp to Hidden Valley. We spend the night at an altitude of 5100 in a picturesque place. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we arrive through the pass to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Expedition leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

By 10 am we climbed the peak of Dhampus small (5800 m). We took pictures and quickly ran down. And just in time. After lunch the weather suddenly deteriorated - it started snowing with rain. Now we are already in tents. Resting. Of course, everyone is tired, but healthy and feeling good. The day after tomorrow we plan to be home (that is, at Dhaulagiri Base Camp).
Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

The leader of the Dhaulagiri expedition is Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Early this morning we left the hospitable hot Pokhara and headed towards Dhaulagiri - to the village of Marfa at an altitude of 2700 m. By bus. The road was difficult (in some places there was almost no road).

After 6 hours of shaking, we reached the apple capital of Nepal, as Marfa is called. This village is really buried in apple orchards. It is located 7 km from Jomson on the route of the Annapurna trek.

Having checked into the lodge, we went for a walk around the center of the village. An amazing place - very similar to Leh or Tibet. We visited a Buddhist monastery, went into authentic souvenir shops, visited very atmospheric cafes. We tasted the main local drink made from apples - Calvados.

In the evening, we had dinner at our lodge. Tomorrow we are going on a radical ascent for acclimatization.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

This morning we flew to Pokhara early. We arrived in Pokhara in the hottest part of the day and immediately went to the roof to cool off in our wonderful pool overlooking Phewa Lake. In the evening we walked along the lake and bought a strategic reserve for tomorrow. In the morning we head to the apple capital of Nepal - the village of Marfa at an altitude of 2600 meters, located between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.

Head of the expedition - Lyudmila Korobeshko.

⠀ Leader: Lyudmila Korobeshko. Director of the 7 Summits Club, the only woman to have completed the Seven Summits project three times, visited both poles twice. She climbed Everest three times, as well as Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Makalu, and K2. Completed the Seven Volcanoes project and became the first Russian woman to complete the 7+7 project (7 summits + 7 volcanoes).
⠀
Irina Zisman. Completed the Seven Summits project, climbed Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, and Ama Dablam.

⠀Vladimir Belkovich. Completed the Seven Summits project, climbed Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Manaslu, Lenin Peak, Ama Dablam.

⠀Vasily Kernitsky. Climber of Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism Peak, Lenin Peak.

⠀Yuri Lukyanov. 6 peaks out of 7 of the Seven Summits project, completed the Seven Volcanoes program, Snow Leopard, climber of Manaslu and Makalu.

Dmitry Moskalyev. The second Russian to complete the Seven Summits program, climber of Everest, K2, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, Snow Leopard, President of the Moscow Mountaineering Federation.

⠀Igor Smirnov. He has 6 peaks out of 7 of the Seven Summits project, climber of Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma, Makalu, Ama Dablam.

Photos from last year's expedition.

 May 11th. Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Yesterday, half of the camp went down. It was a fairly large Indian expedition (about 10 participants and the same number of Sherpas). They spent a month and a half on the mountain and after another unsuccessful attempt to hang the ropes (on May 8-9, the national team tried to do this, but only reached 7,400), they decided to curtail the expedition.

As a result, our team of 6 people remained at Dhaulagiri, and another international team of 7 people.

As of yesterday morning, the input data was as follows

  In fact, there are no fixed ropes. Those that the team re-(!) hung up to 7,400 a day ago are already under the snow. It needs to be re-hung, and from C1 - there are many cracks opened.

  The condition of the site from C2 to C3 is very avalanche-prone.

  The ropes are all used up, we need to bring new ones from Kathmandu.

  And the main thing is the weather. Snowfall is expected daily for the next 8-9 days…

After weighing all this, we decided to wind down. The members of the international team said they were waiting for our decision (they have almost no Sherpas for making the route). And they were very happy when they found out that we were winding down. They said that everything was correct. By the way, there are very interesting characters in the national team. Anna Tybor from Poland, who planned to ski down from the top of Dhaulagiri.  Arjun is a Hindu who became the youngest climber to descend Lhotse and Everest in 2010. He is making a 14X8000 project. He says that he has agreed on the possibility of entering Pakistan, and this is the main problem for Hindus. He hopes to become the first Indian to climb all 14 eight-tiers. Aiden is a climber from Turkey who has climbed 10 out of 14. This is his third time on Dhaulagiri. And some more interesting characters. We've become friends here.

After making a difficult decision, we had a farewell dinner.

We've been waiting for a helicopter to fly to Pokhara all morning.   By 13.00 he almost reached us, then everything was covered with clouds and heavy snow began to fall.

We hope to leave tomorrow morning now… Some participants have ideas to try to rush to Kangchenjunga and Lhotse. But first we need to get to Kathmandu.

 Greetings from the members of the expedition from BÑ Dhaulagiri! Today we had a double holiday - Victory Day and the Birthday of Igor Smirnov, a member of the expedition.

Our morning started with the song "Victory Day" and active holiday exercises.

At breakfast, we congratulated Igor with a cake, deciding that we would arrange a more serious celebration later in the evening. But then the participants of the neighboring expedition came to our dining room with congratulations and gifts for Igor. So we opened the champagne and started celebrating all at once. Then the male half of our exp went for a walk, and Ira and I had a bath day.

Before lunch, the fix-ropes team came down. They barely managed to climb from C2 to C3 in a strong wind and snowfall in 14 hours (usually 5-7 hours). Avalanches swept by several times, one even slightly touched them. At night, they even made an attempt to climb above Camp 3, but quickly turned around due to the avalanche-prone situation and bad weather.

Besides us, there is only one more expedition here near Dhaulagiri - a team of Indians with Pioneer company. But after these events, they decided to curtail the expedition.

In general, we are still looking at forecasts - but there will be snowfall in the next 8-10 days. Tomorrow we will gather a consultation and decide how to live on.

The weather in BC is average - either snowfall or wind. But sometimes the sun comes through. All the participants of our expedition are cheerful and hope for the best.

 Greetings to all from BC Dhaulagiri from our cheerful team!

Today we had a day of preparation for the summit assault. In the morning, we did exercises with elements of Turkish breathing exercises, which was conducted by our Turkish friend from the neighboring expedition. After breakfast, high-altitude meals were distributed by day and personal belongings were collected.

But by lunchtime, the advance fix-ropes team got in touch. They reported that the weather is bad (snow and wind) and the condition of the route is very difficult - deep dry snow. In 12 hours they did not manage to get from C2 to C3…

In such a situation, it was decided to postpone our exit for a few days. According to the forecast, the nearest window is probably May 14-15.

But we were very pleased with the video message from our friends from Transglobal Car. They even dedicated poems to us! So we try not to lose heart and wait for the weather to improve.

 If you suddenly lost us, know that everything is fine with us! From 4 to 6 May, the previously slightly ill head of the group, Lyudmila Korobeshko, went to catch up with acclimatization, for two nights in C1 (5700) and C2 (6300). The main part of the expedition to Dhaulagiri, which had previously completed the entire acclimatization program, also did not waste time. We explored the surroundings under the guidance of Igor Smirnov. We built stone towers under the leadership of Volodya Belkovich (although we expect something else from him).  Rocks and crashed helicopters were explored under the guidance of mountaineering geologist Vasily Kernitsky. We tried to lead a more sporty lifestyle under the guidance of the snow leopard Yuri Lukyanov. We spent a shock Easter with colored eggs and cakes, and also shot films under the guidance of the indefatigable Irina Zisman.

Today, immediately after my descent to the base camp, our sirdar and I made plans for the assault. So far they are very optimistic and look like this.  Early tomorrow morning on May 7, the fix-rope team and our sirdar with several Sherpas go up and will try to reach Camp 3 and hang ropes to the summit by May 9.

We are going out on May 9th with the expectation of being on top on May 12th. The forecasts are not the most rosy yet - from today it snows every day, but there is almost no wind. Let's hope for the best 🙏

After breakfast, I decided to take a walk with a climb, as now I urgently need to acclimatize. Igor Smirnov acted as my guide around the neighborhood (over the past almost two weeks, they have scouted everything around the base camp). Igor and I climbed 300 meters vertically to the moraine opposite our route. From this point, we had a great view of our entire upcoming route on Dhaulagiri. The section from BC to C1 is broken through by avalanches from time to time. One of them was even captured on video.

The members have a rest in the next few days. And I plan to go out to C1 tomorrow and the day after tomorrow to C2 for acclimatization. That is, from May 4 to May 6. According to the forecast, there will be a slight increase in wind tomorrow, and snow begins on May 5. But I hope to get down to heavy snowfall, which is forecast for almost a week from May 6…

So far, the weather and the conditions of all participants at the Dhaulagiri base camp are excellent.

 Greetings from our team from Dhaulagiri Base Camp. I finally managed to get to BC. Despite the ongoing fires around Pokhara, a helicopter dropped me off at BC today, May 2, around 11.30 am. And literally 5 minutes later, my whole team came down here after the second acclimatization rotation.

We celebrated our reunion with a festive lunch. The members have a lot of impressions. The route is very difficult - there are many cracks, seraks, avalanche outflows and objectively dangerous places. And yesterday, a very strong wind of 50-70 km/h rose and visibility dropped to almost zero. In such bad weather, they had to go from 5800 to 6500 and survive a windy night in Camp 2. But the team went through all the tests with honor. We shot a lot of beautiful and interesting videos from the route.

Now we will have a long rest in the BC before the assault. The weather, by the way, is deteriorating. The wind increases, and then snowfall is promised for almost a week. It will be just possible to have a good rest.

All the participants are alive, healthy, washed and full of energy!

According to our sirdar Makalu Lakpa, our entire team made the climb from C1 (5800) to C2 (6500) today. And spent the night at camp C2. The wind has increased slightly, but tomorrow it is forecast to weaken. All the members are feeling well and tomorrow they are already planning a descent down to the Base Camp (4700).

I am still in Pokhara and I still hope to fly to BC Dhaulagiri every day.

I offered prayers to Shiva so that the children at Dhaulagiri would be well on acclimatization. And for me to finally fly to their Base Camp.

Greetings from the team from Dhaulagiri and from the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko!

Our team entered the second rotation this morning. We climbed from BC (4700m) to C1 (5800m) on the slopes of Dhaulagiri, bypassing the icefall. According to our chef Dendy, who stayed in touch with BC, the whole group successfully reached C1 after lunch and stayed there overnight, as planned. Tomorrow we should go even higher in C2 (6500m).

I'm still in Pokhara - I can't fly out in any way. Planes and helicopters do not fly due to poor visibility. Fires are raging around Pokhara, no one is putting them out - today I specially went around the neighborhood to look at the situation…

Greetings to all from the team from Dhaulagiri from the head of the expedition - Lyudmila Korobeshko!

I'm still stuck in Pokhara, where I arrived yesterday in the hope that it would be easier to fly from here to BÑ Dhaulagiri. But fires are raging around Pokhara and there is smog. Helicopters and airplanes do not fly.

I am in touch with the team that is currently in the Base Camp. Yesterday, the members rested and walked around the neighborhood. A Puja consecration ceremony was held at the camp today. Early tomorrow morning, the team under the leadership of Sirdar Lakpa Makalu leaves for the second rotation in the upper camps. According to the plan, tomorrow the climb to C1 (5800), the day after tomorrow - C2 (6500), then another night in C2 and descent down.

Good luck!

And again, greetings to all from the slopes of Dhaulagiri! We made the first rotation at 5700, touched the Mountain. The exit was scheduled for 6.30, everyone lined up as one for the solemn photo of the team. Our Sherpas seemed to be more worried than us, even organized a mini puja before going out. Throwing handfuls of rice, we walked cheerfully to the mountain.

As we moved along the slopes, the fun was replaced by surprise, alertness and, in places, clicked in some places! - how different it is from the Everest, dear to every heart, hung to the centimeter!

The set of 1000 m also made itself felt, the last hours passed in silence, only deep breaths reminded some words not used in decent society.

After 7 hours, the tents finally appeared, fatigue was replaced by the bustle of arranging temporary nests, we discussed the nuances of sensations and conditions, exchanged pills and received a cup of warm sweet water called Black Tea. There was no aperitif at 6.30 pm, the organisms refused everything except painkillers, sleeping bags and soup from the bags.  A windless morning greeted swollen faces with the sun and relative warmth, everyone survived, some even rushed to walk towards the second camp, but they did not walk for long, about 10 minutes.  Hastily pouring into themselves a thick gray soup of positive temperature, they gathered on their way back.

Fragments of fixed ropes were periodically encountered; the ropes cowardly went under the snow and ice. It was especially unpleasant to part with ropes in front of cracks with melted bridges. Here it is necessary to note the heroism of our Sherpas, they just walked and groped for an alternative passage with their feet.

The prospect of beer after the first washing and a delicious lunch on this expedition added coherence and cheerfulness to the team. And after some 3 hours we were at the base camp, surrounded by the care of a Dendy who persistently sent us to wash …

We also did not forget the traditional photo of the entire team, including Sherpas, a Dandy cook with assistants and an electrician (perhaps he has other functions).

 Today's aperitif at 6.30 pm was more restrained than usual: we decided to refrain from raising the already high tone. Then everything is according to plan: SPA treatments with hot towels, a hearty dinner. It started snowing again ... We hope he won't interfere with our plans …

 23.04. Today we were preparing for tomorrow's exit to the first camp. Part of the team took a walk in the neighborhood, the rest were saving up resources. But the sunny weather turned to snowfall and after lunch we decided to cancel the exit, because the passage of some sections becomes unsafe.

After a short afternoon rest, everyone traditionally gathered at 6.30 pm for an aperitif with lard to maintain tone, morale and oxygenation. After a video call with the head, the spirit, tone and oxygen increased significantly. Our chef Dendy, as always, indulged in gastronomic delights, after dinner with chicken soup and momo it is difficult to reach the tent, so for now we are sitting in a warm, quiet family circle!

Greetings from Nepal from the participants of the expedition on Dhaulagiri! Today we spent the first night at a new altitude - 4700 in the Dhaulagiri valley. On beds with sheets and pillows. However, some participants decided that they did not want to relax too much, and put mattresses on the floor for themselves - this is more familiar. 

We have established a good Internet connection in the camp. In the morning, I realized that I was completely ill. I decided to go down to Kathmandu for rest and recovery. I handed out instructions to the team members. Well, they are all experienced - each has 3-5 eight-thousanders. We decided that the first rotation (overnight at C1 at 5800) they would go without me. But under the strict guidance of our most experienced sirdar Lakpa Makalu. Now our Sherpas have installed C1 and made a cast of C2. The fixed ropes are hung up to the assault camp C3.

After breakfast, the participents walked to the beginning of the route - to the crampons point (where the glacier begins and the crampons put on). And after lunch they put me in a helicopter. So I'm already in Kathmandu. I'm trying to recover. And get back in line.

 Greetings to all from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4700! Today we made a long march from 3600 (Italian Base Camp) to the main Base camp at 4700. It took us 7.5 hours. The path is not the easiest - there are many ascents and descents. So we gained about 1,500 meters in total.

The valley leading to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp is absolutely wild. We didn't meet anyone at all on the way. And the terrain is very similar to Tibet. The route to the Middle Camp is moraines, steep cliffs, dust, waterfalls.

Our camp is very comfortable - large single tents with beds. We plan to rest and acclimatize in the base camp for the next two days.

 Good afternoon! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko from the expedition to Dhaulagiri. Today, April 20th, we are at the Italian base camp at an altitude of 3600, under the Western face of Dhaulagiri. We've been here for three days now. Yesterday, April 18th, we arrived and took a walk. On April 19th, we had a full-fledged acclimatization day. We climbed up the slopes to the Western Wall. We gained 500 meters vertically. And today is like our final day here, at this altitude, in this camp.

Today we decided to take a walk to several beautiful waterfalls, which turned out to be very close to the camp. However, the path to them turned out to be quite difficult. It was necessary to drop about 250 meters down steeply to the river. And then go to her and gain another 300 meters. We didn't reach the waterfalls, but we had a very good walk.

 We're having lunch now. The weather is not bad. However, clouds are coming up now. And tomorrow, according to the plan, we will trek to our base camp, directly under our route from the North. That is, tomorrow we have to walk 6-8 hours and about 12 kilometers. Everyone feels good. Nadezhda is flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow. And our six will continue their adventures and climb Dhaulagiri. At the moment, we are informed that the fixing ropes ends in the second camp. And even they were made to the third camp. But apparently there were snowfalls and they were a little bit swept up. We're supposed to be at Base Camp tomorrow night. Perhaps there will be more information. And we hope that tomorrow we will be able to connect the Internet. See you tomorrow!

  Hello everyone from Dhaulagiri! So, our team arrived at the Italian Base camp under the Western Face of Dhaulagiri yesterday, April 18. Everything is fine! We flew in by helicopter and set up camp here. And we even managed to take a walk yesterday to acclimatize a little higher. The height is almost 3700 meters. Everyone feels good. The night went well too.  In the evening, of course, we celebrated our arrival under a new mountain for us. And now it's a nice sunny morning. The entire Western Face is visible.

According to the plan, we will spend two more nights here. We will acclimatize today, tomorrow, and the day after tomorrow we are going to move to the main base camp. It's more than a kilometer higher. We will go around the mountain a little bit and approach from the north and our route will run completely from the north side of Dhaulagiri. Well, it's very beautiful, very wild. There are no villages here, the nearest village is two days' journey down. That is, everything is fine, hello everyone! All participants feel great.

  Namaste!  Now from Pokhara from the Dhaulagiri group of the 7 Summits Club. 25 minutes of summer and we are already drinking morning coffee at the Pokhara Hotel on the shore of Lake Fewa. While flying on the right side, we saw our beautiful Manaslu (we climbed in the fall of 2019), waved to her, remembered the work of the High-Altitude Laboratory…

We decided to wait out the daytime heat at +34 at the hotel. Here we met Vladimir Gonchar and other persons from Annapurna. I was impressed by the stories about the storming of Annapurna.

In the late afternoon, we took boats and sailed to the other side of Lake Fewa. There we went up to the Peace Stupa on the top of the nearest hill. The views are amazing. A place with a very strong energy! Energized before a long expedition 😊

On the way back, we were greeted on the shore with torches and dancing. It turned out to be a local Aarati ceremony (as in Pashupati). We had dinner and decided to go to bed early. Enjoy the final night in civilization. After all, tomorrow morning we are already moving by heli into the Italian Base Camp at 3600m.

Today was our final day in Kathmandu. We walked through the Tamel, issued permits for Dhaulagiri, attended the amazing evening Aarati ceremony in Pashupatinath and did the most important action that traditionally brings success to our team - walked three times around the largest stupa of Buddhanath.

In the evening we sat at the Hard Rock Cafe, where we finally met with our sirdar and a great friend, Lakpa Makalu. He has just successfully climbed Makalu (last Thursday) and supervised the installation of fixed ropes. He arrived in Kathmandu today. And tomorrow, early in the morning, he flies with us to Pokhara and then to Dhaulagiri.

We will try to keep in touch.

All namaste from Kathmandu from the Dhaulagiri group! Today, all participants of the expedition to Dhaulagiri gathered in the capital of Nepal. Each participant of our expedition has already visited Kathmandu several times and managed to climb several eight-thousand meters. Everyone has 3-5 8000+ vertices behind their backs. Having more experience, we all had a good rest from the flights today and went to our favorite Mezze in the evening. Then Nims (with whom we have repeatedly crossed paths on different 8000) invited us to a nearby Penthouse bar, where we tasted a set of "14 eight-thousanders" and tried to find our own Dhaulagiri.  A serious mountain 😊

Tomorrow we get permits, perform the most important ritual for good luck (try to guess which one) and visit Pashupatinath at sunset.

⠀Leader: Lyudmila Korobeshko - Director of the 7 Summits Club, implemented the Seven Summits project three times, visited the poles twice, climbed Mount Everest three times, as well as Cho-Oyu, Manaslu, Makalu and K2. She completed the Seven Volcanoes project and became the first Russian woman to complete the 7+7 project (7 Summits + 7 volcanoes).

⠀Irina Zisman. She completed the Seven Summits project, climbing Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, and Ama-Dablam.

⠀Vladimir Belkovich. Completed the Seven Summits project, summiter of Mount Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Manaslu, Lenin Peak, Ama-Dablam.

 Igor Smirnov. He has 6 Summits from 7 of the Seven Summits project, summiter of Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, Shisha-Pangma, Makalu, Ama-Dablam.

 Vasily Kernitsky. Climber of Mount Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, Korzhenevskaya peak, Communism peak, Lenin peak.

 Yuri Lukyanov. 6 Summits out of 7 of the Seven Summits project, Snow Leopard, summiter of Manaslu and Makalu.

 The project "14 eight-thousanders" - now it's real! The increased level of training of our Sherpa friends, the improvement of equipment, the use of helicopters and other innovations in logistics. Eight-thousandths have become more accessible. Not tfor everyone, of course, but only to those who want, believe and know how to endure, and everything is real...

Climbing Annapurna (8091m)
March 25 - April 28, $29,150, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Makalu (8481m)
April 12 - June 4, $ 29,250, Lyudmila Korobeshko

Climbing Mount Everest (8848 m)
April 15 - May 27, $ 88,410, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Broad Peak (8051)
June 20 - August 8, $35,870

COMBO Climbing K2 (Chogori) (8611m) and Broad Peak (8051)
June 20 - August 8, $59,900, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Cho-Oyu (8201 m)
September 5 - October 4, $33,000

Climbing Manaslu (8156m)
September 5 - 30, $ 26,420, Sergey Larin

Climbing Dhaulagiri (8167m)
September 5 - October 15, $ 31,900, Lyudmila Korobeshko

Climbing Shisha Pangma (8027m)
September 10 - October 9, $40,910

Yesterday, April 26, we successfully climbed Dump peak 6015. Here it is also called Tapa Peak. We would not call this  mountain a trekking peak. It was rather hard  with the use of crampons, ropes and harnesses. At some point, we regretted not taking the ice axes. There were even sections of rock climbing at an altitude of 5600-5800. However, we are usually lucky with the route-the rain, the ice, the snow on the waist.

Today in the morning we went down to the village of Marfa at an altitude of 2700.

In General, it was a great trekking with picturesque views of Dhaulagiri and a worthy end of the route-climbing to the Dampus peak!