List of Sherpas :

 1: Lakpa Sherpa-Makalu 1 🇳🇵 6:30am

2: Tashi Sherpa-Makalu 1 🇳🇵 6:30am

3: Lakpa Tenje Sherpa-Makalu 1🇳🇵6:30am

4: Ong Dorchi Sherpa-1 🇳🇵6:30am

5: Ngang temba sherpa-Makalu 1🇳🇵6:30am

The presentation of Lyudmila Korobeshko's book "The Height Gene 2.0: A Woman's View" will also take place as part of the evening. There was a lot of communication, pleasant meetings and acquaintances. Well, we had fun, too. See the photos, look for yourself! And those who were not with us, envy! It is rare where you can meet so many positive people.

 Yesterday, a solemn celebration of the Makalu climbers took place in the Makalu BC. They were awarded certificates and medals. And then the unofficial part began - with a cake from our chef Dandy and dancing from our Sherpas. By the way, we also solemnly presented the main sirdar and Guinness Book record holder Lakpa Makalu from our 8000 Club with a commemorative medal for Makalu (this year he climbed to this peak 7th times). This morning, part of the group was able to fly to Kathmandu. 5 participants were stuck in Lukla due to bad weather (Simone Moro personally settled everyone in good hotels and promised to take them to Kathmandu tomorrow). One participant, Volodya Belkovich, flew to the Everest BC and plans to climb Lhotse in the coming days. We hope that tomorrow, on May 20, everyone will gather in Kathmandu - both Makalu and Everest teams and celebrate our successful ascents!

List of summiters:

Lyudmila Korobeshko - head of the expedition;

Israfil Ashurli – deputy leader;

Igor Smirnov;

Yuri Lukyanov;

Vladimir Belkovich;  

Valery Babanov.

At the Base Camp, the climbers received certificates and honorary badges-medals.

On May 17th, the team of the 8000 Club climbed on the summit of Makalu 8,485 m:
Lyudmila Korobeshko - head of the expedition;
Israfil Ashurli - ascended on the second attempt, took part in rescue work;
Igor Smirnov;
Yuri Lukyanov;
Vladimir Belkovich;
Valery Babanov.
Now the whole team is in the Base Camp.

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May 13. In the morning, a helicopter arrived and finally our entire team of Makalu Minions gathered in Makalu BC. Yesterday, due to bad weather, only part of the group - 5 people - was able to fly. Even the pilot Simone Moro himself could not immediately take off. And he spent about 2 hours with us at the base camp waiting for the weather to improve.

So, there are 9 of us. Marina Gevorgyan completed her program "Touching the Makalu" and flew home. Veronika Zaripova, one of the strongest participants of the expedition, fell on the descent after the second rotation and suffered a severe knee injury. Until the last, she hoped that she would be able to return to the ranks. But the doctors said that a month minimum load is prohibited. So Veronica had to complete the expedition. She has already left Nepal.

Yesterday there was a strong wind and a terrible cold in the camp.  The weather has improved this morning. And at 8.00 the good news came - a team of Sherpas led by our Lakpa hung ropes to the top!!!  There is the first ascent on Makalu in the 2023 season!!!

By the way, Kristin Harila also climbed the summit of Makalu.

Tomorrow we are going to start - the first climb to C2 and further according to the plan.

 List of climbers:

1. Lily Kovalenko
2. Irina Zisman
3. Vladimir Belkovich
4. Yuri Lukyanov
5. Igor Smirnov
6. Vasily Kernitsky
7. Valery Babanov
8. Israfil Ashurli (deputy leader)
9. Lyudmila Korobeshko (leader)

 Wish us good luck!

Part of our group flew under Makalu. Barely maneuvering between the clouds. And then the weather completely deteriorated. Simone Moro made an attempt to fly out for the rest of the participants, but got into heavy clouds. He had to come back, turn off the screws of his helicopter and sit with us at 5700 waiting for the weather to improve…

Greetings from Nepal from the magical Rivendell from the Makalu Minions team! We have the third (it is the last) day of rest. Yesterday, some of the Minions went for a fabulous walk to the village, where no one had been before - the Portse. It is located on the opposite bank of the river. To get into it, you need to climb to the Tengboche monastery, then descend 300 meters, cross the river and climb 300m again. There are practically no tourists in the village (it is far from all routes). But there are many mountain tours in the vicinity, musk deer, ulars, eagles are found here.

 In the evening, Alla Mishina from the Everest Masala Team group gave us a surprise - a festive dinner at home style: fried potatoes with onions, baked chicken with garlic, sauerkraut ... we were shocked ... pleasant.

Closer to night, we received news from Makalu base camp that Kristin Harila had arrived there. Now the fixing route will definitely  fast!

In the morning, I solemnly signed my new books with all the participants of our exp. (the first 10 copies were delivered to me from Moscow - thanks to Kristina for bringing them to Nepal).

Our participant Marina Gevorgyan was escorted to Kathmandu today. Her program "Touching the Makalu" has ended. But she promised to continue to pray for us. 

At lunch, we walked to the stupa above Tengboche and ran down to the soup that Alla had prepared. In the evening, she promises some kind of surprise for dinner ... tomorrow morning on May 12, we fly to BC Makalu. Most likely, this will be the plan.

 May 13 - preparation at the base camp (BC)

May 14 - move immediately to Camp 2

May 15 - climb to C3

May 16 - climb to C4

May 17 - summit and descent to C2

May 18 - descent to BC.

May 10th.  Greetings from Nepal from the magical Rivendell from the Makalu Minions team! We have the second day of rest. Yesterday, on May 9, Victory Day and Igor Smirnov's birthday were celebrated. In the morning, we arranged a festive exercise and a festive breakfast with songs. Then we went for a walk through the sacred places above the Tengboche Monastery. Having descended, we found a group of Everest with Abramov at the head in our lodge. We continued to celebrate together.

This morning Viktor Volodin flew to visit us in a blue helicopter, and then a group of trekkers led by Kristina Putintseva came. They promised to send us the book "The Height Gene 2. A Woman's Look" from Namche by this evening.

Greetings from Nepal from Deboche, from a height of 3800 m, from the team "Minions of Makalu"! All night the Minions slept a heroic sleep in the Makalu base camp at an altitude of 5700 m, after the second acclimatization rotation.  By morning, they listened with trepidation to see if the wind was getting stronger. After all, we decided to fly down to Deboche, relax on the green before the decisive assault. And according to the forecast, strong winds were promised for three days. After breakfast, we packed our things, and the painful hours of waiting dragged on. The wind was getting stronger. And lo and behold, Simone Moro cuts the clouds with screws and descends after us from heaven (more precisely from the Mainland). In a couple of hours, he transported the whole group to the wonderful Rivendell hotel (2 km lower in altitude than BC). He drove 2 people each time - from 5700 it's the only way.

And now our dreams come true - hot water, heated sheets, cappuccino and apple pie! How little a person needs for happiness!

According to the plan, we have three nights of rest on the green (May 8-11).

May 11 return to BL.

May 12 preparation for the climb.

May 13 climb to C2 (6600).

May 14 move to C3 (7500).

May 15 move to C4 (7800).

May 16 assault Makalu and descent to C2.

May 17 descent to BC.

 Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition to Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

News from the expedition on Makalu.  A couple of hours ago we went down to Makalu base camp. As planned, we acclimatized to 6800, spent two nights in the second camp. Everyone feels good, we are waiting for the good weather to fly down to rest. Valery Babanov, who later went to the slopes of Makalu, stayed one more night in Camp-2 at 6600m.

Against the background of Barunze. On the way from Makalu Base Camp to Camp-1. The height is 6000m. The views are amazing.

The team "Minions of Makalu" goes from the second to the third camp on Makalu. Behind - Everest and Lhotse. So they look unusual from here.

Camp 2 at 6600 on Makalu at night.

On May 5, we entered the second rotation. By 18.00 we arrived at Camp-2, having gained 900 meters in a strong wind. We warm up in tents. A heavy mountain. But it's all right. Tomorrow we will go up to 7000 meters if the wind subsides. The weather is not good, there is a strong wind. We are also planning to meet Valery Babanov, who is planning an oxygen-free ascent as part of the 8000 Club expedition.

May 4. The weather has deteriorated since morning.  Snow and wind. We decided to postpone the climb until tomorrow. A team of Sherpas came out to try to fix ropes to the top of Makalu on May 6-7.

Happy May 1st to everyone!  Yesterday we went to the first acclimatization. The climb to Camp 1 turned out to be quite difficult - there was a steep part in front of the camp itself. We spent the night at 6300. In the morning, part of the group got up into Camp 2, left the drop there and also ran down. The snowfall was quite heavy both days. Tomorrow and the day after tomorrow, May 2 and 3, according to the plan, are rest days. Everyone feels good. But we tired, of course.

  Hello everyone! The 8000 Club team flew into the Makalu base camp. The helicopter flight impressed the participants very much, there were passes, gorges, ridges under us. The pilot was the legendary Italian climber Simone Moro. The camp itself also pleased the participants of the expedition. Very comfortable and convenient. At the camp we were greeted with bread and salt by our old friend the cook from Everest - Dandy. He treated us to the traditional Everest soup "Chicken Water" (potato chicken rice). Tomorrow  there will be the puja ceremony in the camp and if the weather allows, the team will go to camp 1. Everyone feels great, the mood is good.

 Greetings to all from Nepal, again from Pheriche, from “Makalu Minions team”! Today we spent the second night at the Everest Base Camp and left the hospitable camp of climbers on the Everest of the 7 Summits Club. We went down to Pheriche. By 15.00 we were in our cozy Edelweiss lodge. And then it just started snowing. We hope the weather will improve by morning, because tomorrow morning we have to fly directly to the ABC camp on Makalu. We will burhan today for good weather! Wish us the weather and good luck!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition on Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

Greetings to all from Nepal from the Everest BC (altitude 5300) from the Makalu Minions team! We spent the first night at an altitude of 5,300 in the Everest BC. Slightly swollen. To disperse the blood, we went for a walk around the camp. We went to lunch at the camp of our partners - 14 Peaks. Here we met a lot of friends - including Volodya Kotlyar.  We met the legendary Kami Rita Sherpa - 26 times on Everest. After a delicious lunch, we went to visit our group with Vitya Volodin and Sveta Kotlyar. In their camp, we were given delicious coffee. According to the plan, Victor and his team will go up for a few days for acclimatization tomorrow.

And we're going down to Periche tomorrow. And the day after tomorrow we have to fly into the camp near Makalu.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition on Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

P.S. Alex also conducted a theoretical oxygen lesson.

 Greetings from Nepal from Everest Base Camp (altitude 5300) from the Makalu Minions team! This morning we left Lobuche (4900) and by lunchtime we arrived at the Everest Base Camp of the 7 Summits Club Expedition. Here we were greeted with a solemn formation and champagne, comfortably placed in large tents with beds, fed a delicious lunch.

For the next two days we will live here and acclimatize. All participants of the expedition on Makalu feel great. Almost as good as the Everest people who have been living here for three days.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition on Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

Greetings from Nepal from a height of 4200 from the Makalu Minions team! Today we made the trek from Deboche (3600) to Pheriche (4200). On the way, we made a small detour to visit the oldest monastery in the Solo Valley-Khumbu - Pangboche. Here we were shown the scalp and the hand of the Yeti (they are kept inside the monastery in a locker under lock and key). In the village of Shomare we ate delicious pizzas. After that, the weather turned bad. In Pheriche, we were already almost fully laid out - in gortex and warm clothes.

In Pheriche, we stayed in a cozy Edelweiss lodge, where there is a cappuccino and even a foot massage! We'll try it tonight!

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition on Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

All namaste from Nepal from the expedition on Makalu "Minions of Makalu". Today we woke up in Namche and saw that the entire Sherpa capital was covered with snow. But by the time we left, the snow had almost melted - we were walking to the sound of drops. The whole trip to Tiangboche pleased us with beautiful views of Ama-Dablam, Cholatse (where Valera Babanov is going now), Everest and Lhotse. We walked through thickets of yews and rhododendrons.

We could not pass by the famous Tiangboche Monastery - already, according to the good old tradition, the whole group made a cora around the monastery and went inside. We were very lucky - a very cool local lama was reading a prayer there. At our request, he agreed to bless our expedition on Makalu and tied a thread around each participant's neck and katu.

Now we are staying at the wonderful Rivendell Lodge (perhaps the best on the route). The owners of the lodge and their dog Shenki remember us well and welcome us very cordially. We washed with hot water, had lunch and rest.  We're going to Pheriche tomorrow.

All Namaste from Namche from the participants of the expedition on Makalu! We started this morning cheerfully - with morning exercises.  After breakfast, we went out to acclimatize to the famous Everest View Hotel. In an hour and a half we gained 400m and sat down to drink tea with a view of Everest and Ama-Dablam (soon covered by clouds). After about 10 minutes, the snow began to fall. We danced in the hope of dispersing the clouds (it helped for 20 minutes) and through this window we rushed down to Namche.

Only three of the most advanced (Irina, Marina and I) decided to stay and try something new - yoga at the lodge at 3800. It was awesome! First the tuning, then stretching and asanas, at the end - shavasana with singing bowls and tea with rhododendrons.  While we were at yoga, bad weather raged, as soon as we came out, the sun came out. We quickly rushed down to Namche. We ran straight to the Sherpa Barista, where we had a great lunch with the whole group and even with Valera Babanov.

Here the weather has completely deteriorated. It's been raining and snowing for the fifth hour. We hope the weather will improve tomorrow. We have to go to the famous Tiangboche Monastery.

By the way, today we finally approved the name of our team – "Makalu Minions". Everything will be clear from the photo.

20 April. News of the expedition on Makalu.  Namaste from Namche Bazaar - the capital of the Sherpas! We ran here together in 5 hours from Phakding today. And very timely - immediately after our arrival in Namche, it began to rain with hail. But we were no longer afraid - we settled in rooms with hot water and heated sheets.

At lunch in the most famous cafe in Namche - Sherpa "Barista" - we met with Valera Babanov. He and a friend were lifted to Namche  by Simone Moro by helicopter. The next 3-4 days our routes coincide with Valera.

Tomorrow we are planning a day of rest and a disco in a Japanese hotel with a view of Mount Everest.

April 19. Greetings to all from the expedition on Makalu!  Today our team arrived in Lukla and started moving towards Everest.  This year there are new rules - now at the checkpoint immediately after Lukla, documents are checked for a long time and a special trekker card is issued.

Halfway to the Phacking we had lunch and at sunset we came to the Shangri la Resort Sherpa - a cozy hotel among the pine forest and overlooking the neighboring Summits.

Tomorrow we move to the capital of the Sherpas – Namche Bazaar.

Greetings to all from Kathmandu from the expedition on Makalu! Today, on April 18, the last two participants arrived - Marina and Valery Babanov. We sent part of the cargo immediately under Makalu (in very beautiful bags). Then part of the group went to buy equipment, and the other part - to get acquainted with the culture of Nepal.

We visited several Hindu and Buddhist temples, saw the world's largest statue of Padmasabhava, meditated in the caves where Padmasabhava himself achieved enlightenment, made three koras around the largest stupa in Nepal.

In the evening we gathered for a gala dinner, which our Ecuadorian friend, Edgar Parra, unexpectedly shared with us. Tomorrow morning, according to the plan, we will start the trek to Everest Base camp.

Hello everyone from Kathmandu!  Today almost all the participants of our expedition on Makalu gathered in Kathmandu! Almost all of them are Everest summiters, many of them have several eight-thousandth peaks behind them, there are two "Snow Leopards"!

Tomorrow we send some things straight to the base camp Makalu, we buy more equipment and the day after tomorrow we are on the road! Forward and Up!

 Greetings from Nepal from the expedition on Makalu! The first members of our team finally began to arrive in the capital of Nepal. In the morning, Veronica and Lilia (climbers of last season's Everest) arrived. By the way, these brave girls are planning to make two ascents of 8000 at once - to Makalu and Lhotse.  In the late afternoon Israfil Ashurly arrived in Kathmandu, an experienced high-altitude climber (took part in a dozen expeditions to the eight-thousandth Summits) who is an assistant leader in our expedition.

In the evening we paid a friendly visit to the Everest expedition led by Alex Abramov. All the girls first of all ran to be photographed with the legend of Soviet mountaineering - Sergey Bogomolov. He is participating in an expedition to Mount Everest as a preparation for his main goal - K2 this summer. Early tomorrow morning, the Everest team will fly to Lukla, and we will meet the main part of our team on Makalu.

That's the scope! 28 people take part in three expeditions. Good luck to everyone, the summit and a safe descent.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Alex Abramov and Andrey Selivanov, the doctor of the Everest expedition, took part in the photo shoot.

We present the participants of the 8000 Club expedition on Makalu.

1. Irina Zisman. Moscow.
Experience: The Seven Summits project. Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu. Ama-Dablam.

2. Lilia Kovalenko. Samara.
Experience: 6 Summits from the Seven Summits project, Everest, Manaslu. Plans 2x8000 - Makalu + Lhotse.

3. Veronika Zaripova. Ufa.
Experience: Everest, Ama-Dablam, Lenin Icon. Plans 2x8000 - Makalu + Lhotse.

4. Vladimir Belkovich. Moscow.
Experience: The Seven Summits Project, Everest, K2, Manaslu, Lenin Peak, Ama-Dablam. Plans 2x8000 - Makalu+ Lhotse

5. Igor Smirnov. Moscow.
Experience: 6 Summits from the Seven Summits project, Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, Shisha-Pangma, Ama-Dablam.

6. Vasily Kernitsky. Moscow.
Experience: Everest, Manaslu, Cho-Oyu, Korzhenevskaya Peak, Communism peak, Lenin Peak.

7. Yuri Lukyanov. Shymkent, Kazakhstan.
Experience: 6 Summits from the project "Seven Summits", "Snow Leopard", Manaslu.

8. Valery Babanov Valery. Chamonix.
The star of world mountaineering. New routes to the eight–thousand-meter Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri, twice winner of the international prize "Golden Ice Axe", the best ascents in the Himalayas - new routes to the Peak  Meru, Nuptse and Jannu.

9. Israfil Ashurli (assistant to the head of the expedition to Makalu) Baku. Azerbaijan.
Experience: The Seven Summits project, Everest, Manaslu, Broad Peak, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Snow Leopard.

Head: Lyudmila Korobeshko. Director of the 7 Summits Club. She has completed the Seven Summits project three times, visited the poles twice, three times Everest summiter, Cho-Oyu, Manaslu.

We have 13 participants on Everest now, a lot of Sherpas are involved, there will be a lot of oxygen and helicopters. Alexander Abramov will be a leader.  In the team: guide Viktor Volodin, doctor Andrey Selivanov and base camp manager Lena Abramova.

On Makalu we have a team of 8 climbers, it is headed by the famous Russian climber Lyudmila Korobeshko.

As always, we organize expeditions with the best possible service.

Follow the news! 

Your Alexander Abramov.

 Another 8000.Club group will be working on Everest at this time. The team will be led by Viktor Volodin.  They have a special sport program. This year Nepal will celebrate the 70th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953.  Expedition of the 8000.Club will follow in the footsteps of the legendary Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

 You will also be able to follow the news from these expeditions on the website of the 7 Summits Club.

 Introducing ourselves:

1. Club 8000 is a closed, elite club of climbers on the highest peaks of the World.

2. Only a person who has climbed on the summit above 8000 meters can become a member of the Club.

3. People who have climbed the peaks of 7000m and above can become candidates for Club membership. That's why we support the Snow Leopard project - the best high-altitude mountaineering school.

 The company "Club 8000"

Under the new project, a new organization was created, the company LLC "Club 8000".

Club 8000 is the first company in Russia that implements the most complex and prestigious project for organizing ascents of all 14 eight-thousand-meter peaks.  Every year we plan 5-6 expeditions to the peaks above 8000 meters.  All our expeditions are led by our super qualified high-altitude guides, climbers of Mount Everest, K2 and other eight-thousandth peaks. The company is headed by Alexander Abramov, the most famous leader of Himalayan expeditions in Russia, an authoritative all over the world, an 11-time climber of Mount Everest.

About 8000.club website

We have opened a new website. On it you will be able to get acquainted with all the climbing programs for 14 eight-thousand-meter and 5 seven-thousand-meter (Snow Leopard).  There will also be an opportunity to register, that is, to become a member of the Club. We will inform you about the progress of our expeditions.

Join the most ambitious and prestigious project "Climbing 14 eight-thousand-meters"!

 The project "14 eight-thousanders" - now it's real! The increased level of training of our Sherpa friends, the improvement of equipment, the use of helicopters and other innovations in logistics. Eight-thousandths have become more accessible. Not tfor everyone, of course, but only to those who want, believe and know how to endure, and everything is real...

Climbing Annapurna (8091m)
March 25 - April 28, $29,150, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Makalu (8481m)
April 12 - June 4, $ 29,250, Lyudmila Korobeshko

Climbing Mount Everest (8848 m)
April 15 - May 27, $ 88,410, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Broad Peak (8051)
June 20 - August 8, $35,870

COMBO Climbing K2 (Chogori) (8611m) and Broad Peak (8051)
June 20 - August 8, $59,900, Alexander Abramov

Climbing Cho-Oyu (8201 m)
September 5 - October 4, $33,000

Climbing Manaslu (8156m)
September 5 - 30, $ 26,420, Sergey Larin

Climbing Dhaulagiri (8167m)
September 5 - October 15, $ 31,900, Lyudmila Korobeshko

Climbing Shisha Pangma (8027m)
September 10 - October 9, $40,910

 According to information from the head of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal, our good friend Mingma Gelu, the country will be fully open to tourists from August 1. The epidemiological situation in Nepal has long been considered quite favorable for this. It remains only to agree on the air transportation system, rules and procedure for returning to normal life.

 The 7 Summits Club is optimistic about the prospects for the autumn season in Nepal. We have already prepared expeditions to the eight-thousandth Manaslu  and Makalu, which you can still join. And all our traditional programs will be held, including Ama Dablam, Mera peak, Island peak, trekking to Everest Base camp, etc…

   The 7 Summits Club in the person of its President Alexander Abramov handed Nims "Golden Ice ax", so we evaluate his achievement ...

What was Nims talking about?

Nothing is impossible! The main thing in the project was precisely this idea! Show that it is possible. Nims sacrificed his pension,  laid his own house. And normal sponsorship appeared only after the completion of the first, most difficult part of the project.

 But at the same time, he wanted to show that Nepalese can be considered  as leaders in high altitude mountaineering. They consider themselves underrated.

Nims paid special attention to the fact that during the project, his team held four rescue actions. Critically, this could affect success. Especially at the very beginning, when the schedule was broken due to the rescue action at Annapurna.

The most difficult was, of course, Kanchenjunga. It was only the fourth day after the descent from Dhaulagiri. Fatigue was incredible. However, when on the descent, Nims's group found three climbers who were unable to move independently, they were assisted. And of the 40 climbers who were in the nearest camp, no one took part in the action.

Nims also climbed with  supplemental oxygen because there can be different situations on the ascent and often other climbers have to be helped. What would be impossible without additional oxygen.

Before K2 he was worried more than usual. After all, no one was able to get to the top before them. Even very strong teams. Under the mountain there were about a hundred climbers. When they arrived at the base camp, everyone turned to Nims with a question about their plans. He answered - today we drink (alcohol) and no plans. And in the morning his team took the storm of the most formidable mountain.

By the way, during the 16-year service in the elite unit of the English army (the Gurkhas are considered by many to be “the best warriors in the world”) Nims did not drink alcohol at all. But now he believes that it can even be useful in the mountains.

On Pakistan's eight-thousanders, the Nims team had difficulties associated with the work of local porters. Nepalis simply did not like the pace of their movement. Therefore, they carried goods under Broad Peak and Gasherbrum independently.

Nims plans to issue book,  ti finish a film, work in his company Elite Himalayan Adventures, make a new route to Cho Oyu, perhaps for new records ...

And! Collaborate with  the 7 Summits Club and work with our groups. And not only in Nepal!

From an interview with Forbes magazine:

I am not really afraid of anything. But there is an old saying: If someone says, “I’m not afraid of dying,” they must either be a Ghurka or they must be lying. I am a Ghurka (laughs)!

Reinhold Messner, the man of the era who first climbed the eight-thousanders: “Nims, I can see in your eyes - it comes from your soul, from your heart - I think you can do this project.”

 Now we made sure that Messner was right. Nims is a very honest, decent, pure in his goals, strong person in every way, and at the same time he is adequately thinking. We are friends now!

Plans of climbing the eight-thousanders by expeditions the 7 summits Club. 2019 -2020

September 2019

 Manaslu (8156), Nepal. The tour-leaders Sergei Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April – May 2020

Lhotse (8516m) + Everest (8848m) from the South - leader Vladimir Kotlyar.

Makalu (8462m, Nepal) – leader Artem Rostovtsev.

Everest (8848m, Tibet) from the North - leader Alexander Abramov.

July 2020

Gasherbrum II (8035m, Pakistan)

K2 (8611m, Pakistan)

September 2020

Cho-Oyu – leader Sergey Larin.

Our expeditions are served by our well-trained team of Sherpas, proven high-altitude guides and well-trained in the provision of camping services. With the ideal organization of expeditions, members have a great chance to achieve success, to reach the summit. Climb all 14 eight-thousand - no longer a fantastic dream, but it can be quite a real goal.

8 October, 2012 Annapurna. The avalanche...ILjas Tukhvatullin group was climbing from C1 to C2 yesterday, when the huge avalanche headed down... It happened on 3 p.m. Iljas and Ivan Lobanov have been burried, only one climber was not caught. He tried to find his friends, but it was impossible... He ascended the rest 150 m to C2 - there was the safety place, the air wave only broke the tent... Then he descended to C1 and radioed to BC. Today Gleb Sokolov and his group are asceding from BC to the tragedy place to try to find somebody... It was not the serac crash, the whole icy slope fell down, perhaps as a result of earthquake...

http://www.russianclimb.com/

From camp four, with our boots still on and probably looking a bit rough at this point with crazy things still frozen to our beards, noses and who knows where else. We are vey happy to announce that our entire Mountain Professionals team, Tone, Leif, Vibeke, Fredrik, Ryan, Chhirring, Pema, and Lhakpa, reached the summit of Manaslu 8163m this morning!

A big congratulations to our climbers, they enjoyed mostly blue bird skies and some mild winds at the tip top that basically blew a little spindrift around but we could still enjoy the very narrow and steep summit pyramid.

We owe a tremendous thanks to our Sherpa guide staff, who work tirelessly from fixing line for our team in exposed sections to brewing up hot tea when they know we need it most... like right now, Lhakpa is at our tent door!

We will descend in a short time to camp two for the relative comforts there and keep continuing down with caution until the safety of base camp and send more details and photos. Thanks a lot for following, from a tired but elated group up here in the clouds.

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Altitude Junkies: Manaslu 2012 Expedition Dispatches

Update - October 1, 2012
We have had 15 successful summits! Two of our Sherpas and one team member did not go to the summit. The team is now in the process of descending to Camp 2. Everyone is safe and doing well. A more detailed dispatch will be posted as soon as they return to base camp.

Update - September 30, 2012
The team, including Sherpas and members, are at Camp 4 and doing well. They will be heading for the summit tomorrow.

Members of the expedition: Alexander Bykov (born 1988), Yevgeny Yegorov (1956), Sergei Ilyasov (1957), Andrew Kutsy (1959), Ivan Lobanov (1961), Dmitry Serebryakov (1964), Gregory Yudin (1955).

Ilyas Tukhvatullin - one of the strongest climbers bothRussiaandUzbekistan. With a team of Russia, he was on the record routes on the North Face of Mount Everest and K2 West Face. To his credit there are many ascents of peaks above 7,000 meters, the climb of the North Face of Khan Tengri in duo with Pavel Shabalin, winter first ascent of the North Face of Aksu etc….

This season, the famous mountaineer Gleb Sokolov also goes to the Annapurna, and some climber from Moscow.

http://racek-club.climberca.com/

Autumn in the Himalayas...

Manaslu became the most popular autumn mountain in recent years. Once Chinahas restricted access to the peaks of Tibet (Cho Oyuand Shisha Pangma) an expedition Alpine Ascents International went to Manaslu (guide Garrett Madison). AsGermany's commercial expedition Amical (guide Herbert Wolf) and a team fromIndia, including a young climber Arjun who aim to go all 14 eight-thousanders. And a small commercial group gathered by American guide Ryan Water.

For the media, perhaps the most interesting event is an attempt of 73-year-old Spaniard Carlos Soria to climb his 12th eightthousander -Dhaulagiri. Almost no one would bother Everest this season. Polish expedition led by the indefatigable Arthur Haizer will run on its southern slopes. But its aim isLhotseby the normal route. Elbrus record holder Andrew Bargiel from Zakopane is one of its members. His goal - speed record ascent ofLhotse. From the base camp to the top a record holder is Mexican Carlos Carsolio climbed 23 hours 50 minutes. Autumn is a lot of snow, but it will not be the crowd on the railing.

The Polish team. On the left is 49-year-old leader, and near him 24 years old Elbrus record-holder

Mexican couple "Yuri - Laura" Yuri Contreras and Laura Gonzalez are now he trail through jungles to the foot ofMakalu, their next eight-thousanders.

Well, one more note. Declared Sophie Denis French expedition on Shisha Pangma will not take place. Do not blame the Chinese, just Sofia decided to become a mother. So her plan to complete the collection of 14 eight postponed or canceled. Time will tell.

In our office: Mikhail Yarin, Alex Abramov, Gleb Sokolov and Pavel Shabalin

Makalu. Polish woman climber Kinga Baranovska, which goes to his eight eighåt-thousanders, will be there a major star ... Slovak Peter Hamor plans, high-speed solo climb without oxygen. For acclimatization he plans to climb Lobuche East and Pumori.

Lhotse. Carlos Soria, 72-year-old Spanish climber intends to climb its 10 th eight-.thousander. In the company with him will climb Carlos Pauner and Juan Oiarzabal, who has now 24 climbs on eight thousanders (overall record). Austrian paragliding Mike Kueng wants to flight over the summit ridge (8500 m), starting from the south. On account of this 42-year old athlete is a lot of records, including a flight at an altitude of 10,100 meters. But the goal is very difficult: from the bottom up in the Himalayas nobody could rise above 7300 m yet. Austrian already is flying in the vicinity of Namche Bazaar, as part of his great expedition "paratrekkers.

Soria (left), Kueng and below - the planned route record

On Everest should be lively as usual ...

In addition to numerous commercial expeditions, many people will try to speak own word on the slopes of tallest peak of the planet.

In the focus - Basque woman climber Edurne Pasaban, which tries to climb the highest peak without the aid of artificial oxygen. If successful, all 14 eight she would have "made" without oxygen. Also will try a clean, oxygen-free ascent a 35-year-old Australian climber Allie Pepper .. And men… once again going to climb without oxygen Englishman David Tait. Before that he planned to climb a new route on Lhotse. Mexican David Liano is back to his project climb Everest from both sides during the season. Without oxygen, and one day plans to go to the summit an Ecuadorian Ramiro Tesalema. Brazilian Rodrigo Raineri announced his intention to descend from the top of a glider.

 Allie Pepper - after Cho Oyu climbs Everest without oxygen

Sherpas go for at least 3 record. Famous Apa go to the top once again.

Pemba Dorji plans for a day to visit both Everest and Lhotse. His brothers dragged to the top of the world's tent - they plan to stay at an altitude of 8848 meters over 24 hours.

On Cho-Oyu the most interesting fact is that refusal to participate in the expedition Japanese Hiro Takeuchi. In solidarity with the victims of the catastrophic earthquake compatriots. Takeuchi - the first real contender for the 14 eight-thousanders from the country which was a quarter-century was among the leaders of Himalayan mountaineering. He remained only two: Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri

While Nepal was celebrating its four-day Tihar holiday, Nepali pilot Sabin Basnet and technician Purna Awale were scouring the upper ranges of Mt Ama Dablam – meaning mother's necklace – a Himalayan range whose main peak juts up to 6812m above sea level. They had been sent by domestic airline Fishtail Air to airlift two Japanese climbers who had fallen ill.

After successfully rescuing the first climber, the two men went back for the second when high winds buffeted the aircraft and caused it to crash while trying to land. Two other helicopters sent to locate the missing chopper and its crew had to search the area for hours before they could locate the wreck and the bodies. Fishtail officials said they have now started the difficult operation of bringing the bodies down from the inaccessible mountain range.

This is the second air accident since August that resulted in casualties. In August, an aircraft crashed near Kathmandu valley, killing all 14 people on board, including a Japanese tourist. Last month, three Japanese climbers and their Nepali guide were swept away by an avalanche while climbing Mt Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest peak in the world.

The best high-altitude pilot, a real pioneer of rescue above 7000 m -  Sabin Basnet

With swiss team after Lantang flight to find Tomas Humar

After epic Dhaulagiri rescue withh his swiss teachers

41-year-old Stitzinger, in recent years, got a taste for the establishment of outstanding records. He has already made descents on three eight-thousanders, set speed records on the Polish route on Aconcagua, etc. .. His climbing partner is his girtl-friend Alix von Melle, as well a guide, as well an extreme skier. However, on Makalu Luis will skiing alone, too severe would be descent.

Route for ski descent

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From ExplorersWeb

Americans Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt plan to make waves on a lonelier 8000er: Makalu.

“Marty Schmidt and I are headed to the south side of Makalu, leaving this coming week,” Chris Warner wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.”

Route details

“Our planned route lies between the SW Ridge (opened by Czechs in 1976) and the SE Ridge (Japanese climb in 1970),” expedition website SharedSummits reported. “The route will ascend snow gullies and rock bands, up the 7000 foot face to Makalu SE (7803 meters). Here it joins with the Czech and Japanese routes along the SE ridge, knife-edged and gendarme guarded all the way until the summit.”

“At 8300 meters, a 100 meter rock band blocks the route, making for an extremely technical summit day,” SharedSummits added. The climbers expect to find snow slopes to 60 degrees, ice to 85 degrees and rock sections to 5.7.

Himalaya veterans

Both climbers are highly experienced mountaineers: In addition to new routes on Shivling and winter Ama Dablam, expedition leader Chris Warner has been on 13 expeditions to 8000ers, reaching the summit of Everest (guiding three times), K2, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma (solo south side) and Cho Oyu, plus attempts on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak.

A regular on Denali and Aconcagua; Marty is a seasoned high mountaineering guide and a four-time Cho Oyu summiteer (including a speed ascent and a ski descent), who also topped-out Kangchenjunga and attempted K2 from both sides.

“Marty Schmidt and I are headed to the south side of Makalu, leaving this coming week,” Chris Warner wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.”

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From Everestnews.com

Will Cross

Will Cross departs shortly for Makalu as part of his Giant Mountain Challenge; a quest to climb six of the highest peaks in the world. All are located in the Himalaya and all are above 8000m. The purpose of this challenge is to demonstrate that one can lead an extraordinary life with diabetes, an incurable condition and a global pandemic. So far, Cross has topped out on Everest, Lhotse and Cho Oyu. He has had diabetes for over thirty years.

Novo Nordisk continues to be the primary corporate partner of this endeavor. Wild Things is the exclusive pack and gear provider. Dermatone is the exclusive sun care protection. HealthiFeet and Adventure Medical Kits have also stepped forward to support the Giant Mountain Challenge.

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March 27, Ukrainian National expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010" started from Kiev. The expedition includes 10 climbers, 2 coaches, a doctor. Expedition leader - Valentin Simonenko. The purpose of the expedition - climbing Makalu (8463 m), the fifth summit of the world, by a new route along the South-West Face. This expedition is dedicated to the memory of the famous Ukrainian climber Vladislav Terzyul, who climbed all the Eight-thousanders. He died on the descent is from Makalu, the latest in his list of 14.

The team includes athletes from different regions of the country:

1. Yuri Kruglov - team captain

2. Sergei Pugachev (Gorlovka)

3. Sergei Boublik (Sumy)

4. Maxim Perevalov (Odessa)

5. Vladimir Klebansky (Odessa)

6. Andrew Kiyko (Kharkiv)

7. Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkiv)

8. Paul Kirichek (Kiev)

9. Dmitry Venslavovsky (Vinnitsa)

10. Igor Storozhenko (Donetsk)

Head Coach - Mstislav Gorbenko, the second coach - Michael Zagirnyak, organizer and leader of the expedition, Valentin Simonenko.

Winter Training on Elbrus

Expedition will last 2 months. Upon arrival in Nepal athletes decide to organizational matters, then 8 days walk will reach the base camp .. May 27 athletes plan to return to Ukraine.

The expedition can be monitored at blogging site leader and team captain Yuri Kruglov: kruglov.biz

From the left: Michael Zagirnyak, Yuri Kruglov, Mstislav Gorbenko

Save the Himalayas

The program will be organized as an accompanying event of the fifteenth conference of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change to celebrate the International Mountain Day on December 11, 2009. Mountaineering icons, marching in summit gears on the streets of Copenhagen, will be joined by many mountain lovers in issuing a declaration to save the Himalayas from the impacts of climate change.

 After holding a historic cabinet meeting at a Mount Everest base camp last week, Nepal is all set to organize a march by Everest summiteers at Copenhagen on December 11.

 The hour-long march comprising mountaineers who have scaled the world’s tallest peak will coincide with International Mountain Day and highlight the threat posed to Himalayas by climate change.

 “The march to be held on the sidelines of the Copenhagen meet will have mountaineers marching in full mountaineering gear to attract global attention to the issue,” said Deepak Bohara, Nepal’s minister for forest and soil conservation.

 On Monday, a 57-member Nepalese delegation led by Bohara left for Copenhagen. Several other ministers including Deputy Prime Minister Sujata Koirala will leave soon to take part in the march.

 The Nepalese team which comprises of 32 Mt Everest summiteers includes Apa Sherpa, who has climbed the peak a record 19 times, Min Bahadur Sherchan (77), the oldest climber and Nimduma Sherpa, the youngest woman summiteers.

 Several Mt Everest summiteers from across the globe including Austrian Peter Habbler, who climbed the peak without oxygen cyclinder, Canadian Byron Smiths and the Mayor of Prague Pavel Bem are also expected to take part in the march.

http://www.savehimalayas.org/index.php

DECLARATION 

The Summiteers’ Summit to Save the Himalayas Copenhagen, 11 December 2009

 The majestic Himalayas, whose enthralling beauty have inspired awe and religious devotion in people around the world for millennia, continue to challenge the human spirit and contribute to the human experience. The Himalayas are the ‘water towers’ of Asia, feeding its largest rivers and nourishing hundreds of millions of people downstream. The Himalayas play an important role in global atmospheric circulation and are a sanctuary for unique biodiversity. The lofty peaks and mighty rivers have inspired civilizations and supported a mosaic of cultural diversity. The Himalayas, in essence, are a global treasure.

 But the perils of climate change are threatening this treasure. Temperatures are rising rapidly at higher altitudes – several times higher than the global average. Glaciers are melting – changing landscapes and creating dangerous glacial lakes held back only by natural dams of rubble and ice. The ensuing changes threaten unique ecosystems and the lives of millions of people living in the mountains and downstream who eke out their livelihoods from diverse mountain resources. The menace of climate change on the Himalayas will manifest far and wide in the form of drought, flood and sea level rise. As the seas rise, there is no refuge from climate change even at the highest altitudes.

 We, the undersigned, confirm the vital importance of the Himalayas and recognize the risks posed by climate change; we call upon the world community:

 • To focus attention to the challenges of climate change in the Himalayas and downstream.

• To value their unique contribution to human adventure, global ecology, and regional river systems;

• To safeguard Himalayan ecosystems which provide essential services to millions of people living in the mountains and on the plains.

• To enable mountain peoples to meet the unfolding challenges of climate change.

• To save the Himalayas for the current generation and for generations to come.

The highest ever Cabinet meeting

After passing initial health check-up in Syangboche, twenty-four Cabinet ministers, including Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal, have reached Kalapatthar plateau near Everest Base Camp at an altitude of 17,192 feet (5,242 meters) at 9:20 a.m on Friday morning to hold the historic Cabinet meeting set in the backdrop of the majestic Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, the world's tallest mountain.

 The Cabinet meeting will be held for around 30 minutes to draw global attention to the threat of climate change in the Himalayas. It is set to declare Banke National Park as new national park and Api-Nampa and Gauri-Shankar as conservation areas.

 A rescue team led by Usha Gurung along with six doctors and a team of mountaineers are accompanying the ministerial team for this historic event.

 The government will make public the decision of the Cabinet at a press meet after arriving in Syangboche (3,780 m) later.

 Speaking to media-persons before the ministerial team was air-lifted to Kalapathhar, Minister for Forest and Soil Conservation Dipak Bohora said that the Government of Nepal is holding the Cabinet meeting to draw the attention of the world to the threats of climate change in the Himalayas and the people living in the region.

 The Cabinet is set to endorse the agenda prepared for the UN climate change summit to be held in Copenhagen.

 State-owned Nepal Television is broadcasting the special event live from Kalapatthar.

 Twenty four Cabinet ministers, including PM Nepal, had reached Lukla Airport in Solukhumbu district on Thursday to take part in the historic meeting. However, four ministers missed the meeting.

A large number of national and foreign journalists, health and technical teams had reached Syangboche on Thursday to cover the rare media event.

 The high-altitude Cabinet meeting has attracted international attention, especially as it comes on the eve of the Copenhagen summit. nepalnews.com