61. Ed Khalilov (Russia) Sidley January 14.
62. Max Wegner (Germany) Sidley January 14.
63. Rinat Karamov (Russia) Sidley January 14.
64. Igor Rebelsky (Russia) Ojos del Salado January 18.
In addition, several more record achievements were updated by the President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov. Now he has climbed Sidley three times, completed the Seven Volcanoes program three times, and completed the Seven Summits + Seven Volcanoes project three times.
In addition, we congratulate the other participants of the successful ascent of Sidley, who, of course, passed the most serious test on the way to the "Seven Volcanoes". And will soon join the above list.
These are Roman Tсaci (the first representative of Moldova), Alexey Erdle and Vitaly Kungel (both Germany), Igor Alexandrov (Hungary).
Congratulations to everyone once again! New heights and new achievements to everyone!
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The weather was terrible. We managed to catch a small window. Then we waited out the blizzard for a day in the high camp. Now the team has descended to the Base Camp and is waiting for the plane to take off.
Everyone is alive and well and happy!
Guides Alexander Abramov and Andrey Polyakov.
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Hooray! The Sidley team has arrived at Base Camp! Tomorrow morning, January 13th, we will have breakfast, pack up, and head to High Camp. Summit ascent and descent on the 14th. Flight to Union on the 15th. We need to hurry, as the forecast says a storm will start on the 15th for 3 days.
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There was terrible bad weather at the Sidley Base Camp. The wind speed reached 100 km per hour, according to the forecast, and in fact. The wind howled like an airplane turbine. I tried to watch a movie on my iPhone. I couldn't hear anything. The worst thing was that the tent would be torn. Then death.
The tents were damaged, but they held up. Because our 20 years of experience have taught us to fight such bad weather. It happened that the tents were torn. Or the tents flew away. Now we have the best equipment suitable for Antarctica.
There are only two of us in the camp, so if something happened, no one would help us. The nearest station is 1100 km away. Watch the video and enjoy.
The weather in Sidley is getting better now. We are waiting for a new group.
Greetings from Antarctica! Having completed the 7 volcanoes project in 66 days, I encountered a surprise. It turned out that there were only 18 seats on the plane, and there were 19 of us,
Everyone flew away, and I was left alone at Sidley Base Camp. It is about 1,100 km from the nearest station where people live. They said they would arrive tomorrow, but I immediately realized that they would not. They would not scuttle the plane because of one person.
However, I have another partner in misfortune, Bob. A guide from New Zealand. He was also left behind. He must have behaved badly. We are settling in. We sorted out all our things. Two petrels flew in yesterday. They circled over the camp for a long time. They refused to eat bread and sausage. They realized that we had no fish, and flew away. It is 300 km from the shore. Imagine how disappointed these birds were.
That's all the news for now. We have been sitting here for three days already. They said that they will not pick us up until the next group. And that is in about five days. No big deal. It's cool to live in the desert. True, there is Internet and a generator. But we have little gas. We are saving. There is food too, don't worry. And whiskey too. Anyone who has read Jack London is incredibly jealous of me right now.
Photos of our guide Artem Rostovtsev
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The first team.
1. Boris Egorov - Seven volcanoes!
2. Mikhail Melekhin - Seven volcanoes!
3. Marat Vladimirov
4. Farid Sagutdinov - Seven volcanoes!
5. Alexander Khlebnov - Seven volcanoes!
The second team
6. Andrey Polyakov
7. Boris Pustovoitov - Seven volcanoes!
8. Alexander Bachmann - Seven volcanoes!
9. Artem Gurshteyn - Seven volcanoes! Speed record!
10. Boris Fadeev - Seven volcanoes!
Third team
11. Artem Rostovtsev
12. Karolina Lukyanova (Kazakhstan) - Seven volcanoes!
13. Yuri Lukyanov (Kazakhstan) - Seven volcanoes!
14. Galymzhan Kuspanov (Kazakhstan)
Fourth team
15. Alexander Abramov - Seven volcanoes! Second time! Speed record!
16. Dmitry Tertychny - Seven volcanoes!
17. Alexander Tertychny - Seven volcanoes!
18. Konstantin Lashas
19. Viktor Alexandrov - Seven volcanoes!
19 climbers in one expedition - a record.
16 climbers from one country - a record.
14 climbers who comleted the "Seven Volcanoes" program in one day.
Speed record – 2 people: Alexander Abramov and Artem Gurshteyn (66 days).
Alexander Abramov – the first to complete the “Seven Volcanoes” program twice.
Alexander Abramov – the first to complete two programs, “Seven Summits” and “Seven Volcanoes”, twice.
Yuri and Karolina Lukyanov – the first father and daughter to complete the “Seven Volcanoes” program.
Aleksandr and Dmitry Tertychny – the first father and son to complete the “Seven Volcanoes” program.
And a number of ethnic and national championships that need to be clarified.
Mount Sidley from the plain
Alexander Abramov and Artem Gurshteyn
Yuri and Karolina Lukyanov
Aleksandr and Dmitry Tertychny
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And we are hoping for a quick flight down the mountain.
Guides: Abramov Alex, Rostovtsev Artem, Egorov Boris and Polyakov Andrey.
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We flew on a comfortable Boeing 757. We arrived, pitched tents. It's 1 a.m. now. The sun is shining! Polar day.
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The "7 Volcanoes in 70 Days" project is coming to an end. The weather in Antarctica is bad, and we are not flying until January 2. In our free time, we decided to take a walk in the most beautiful corner of Patagonia, the Torres del Paine National Park region.
News from the Sidley group, Antarctica. Hello everyone from the southernmost continental point of South America - Punta Arenas! The departure, scheduled for December 30, was postponed to the 31st due to weather conditions. But we have something to do! In the morning we checked in our luggage and checked in for the flight, and then went to see the place of the first settlers Fort Bulnes. And some participants even swam in the Strait of Magellan! And tomorrow we will go see the penguins!
It seems that it is time to publish our own guidebooks, because we know the most interesting places and will never let our tourists get bored.
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Today the team finally gathered. We walked around the city. We visited a meeting of those leaving for Antarctica, as well as sports shops. Tomorrow is the day to check in our luggage.
And we will wait for the flight to Antarctica. Our team is called "Antarctica 7/70".
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In the 2024-25 season, we have five groups in Antarctica. 16 participants on the Vinson Massif and 24 on Sidley. A total of 40 participants and 5 guides. This is the largest season of the 7 Summits Club in 20 years of work in Antarctica. The first participants of the expedition to Sidley are already gathering in Punta Arenas, the southernmost city in Chile. The flight to Antarctica is scheduled for December 30.
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Alexander Abramov plans to climb the highest volcanoes on all continents in less than 100 days. This will be "Project 99". On October 1, Alexander sets off with a group to climb the Giluwe volcano (Australian continent). And he intends to finish on the Antarctic mountain Mount Sidley in early January 2025.
Good luck, Сaptain!
You can join our leader and take part in a real world record. There are places in almost all groups. And if there is no group, you can join our hero as a fan.
October 1-6. Alex Abramov will lead the 7 Summits Club group to climb Giluwe volcano.
On October 10, Moscow will host an Evening dedicated to the 7 Summits Club's birthday. The President's presence is mandatory.
October 12-13. These days are set aside for climbing Elbrus. The logistics are still unclear. Most likely, there will be an attempt at climbing SUPER BLITZ - 24 hours from the airport and back.
October 17-24. Damavand volcano, it is still unclear what program can be agreed upon with the Iranian host.
November 1-8. The highest volcano in Africa - Kilimanjaro. The 7 Summits Club group climbs the Marangu route.
NEXT - An emergency flight to Mexico. Alexander catches up with the SUPER GIRLS project group
November 7-16. Climbing Orizaba volcano according to the SUPER GIRLS project program!
December 10-24. The first group of the 7 Summits Club season on Ojos del Salado, the highest volcano in the world.
December 27, 2024 - January 10, 2024. New Year in Antarctica. Climbing Mount Sidley.
With ideal completion of all routes, it will take about 95 days from the first summit to the final one.
Alexander Abramov can safely be called the "godfather" of the Seven Volcanoes program. It was the president of the 7 Summits Club who conceived, and our company carried out, the historic 2011 expedition on Mount Sidley. Since the scientific discovery of this highest volcano in Antarctica, no one had been there. As a result of the 2011 ascent, the first people to climb all seven volcanoes appeared. These were the participants of our expedition, the experienced Italian climber Mario Trimeri and the 16-year-old Romanian girl Crina (Coco) Popescu. And this was the real start of the "Seven Volcanoes" program. Russia, represented by our company, is the world leader in the number of climbers who have climbed all seven volcanoes of the project. At the moment, out of 46 who have completed the project, 14 represent our country. There is something to be proud of!
The most important historical photo of the "Seven Volcanoes" project. 2011, at the top of Sidley are standing the expedition leader Alexander Abramov and the first people to climb all "seven volcanoes" Mario and Coco.
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The Seven Volcanoes program has been completed: Nikolai Tomchak, Oleg Pipkov, Evgeny Fedorov and the expedition leader Lyudmila Korobeshko. The rest of the ascent participants are 1-2 Summits away from the completion of the Seven Volcanoes program. This is the first Kazakhstani to reach the top of Sidley, Yuri Lukyanov. As well as Sergey Vasiliev, Igor Rebelsky, Andrey Kravchenko and Vladimir Solovyov – all Russians.
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January 12. Greetings to all from Punta Arenas from the DDT group (Drink Dream Team) - aka "Empanadas", aka "expedition to Sidley".
Late yesterday evening on January 11, after a one-day delay, we flew from Antarctica to the Mainland - more precisely, to Punta Arenas.
A solemn awarding ceremony was held with diplomas and medals. Each participant of our expedition was awarded two diplomas (for Sidley and for the South Pole) and two medals (a small silver one with Sidley's image and a large one for Antarctic programs). That's why we celebrated the end of the expedition on a double scale. Joyfully.
Most of the group left today for home. The other part went traveling. Nikolai is going to have a long trip to Patagonia. Sergey and Andrey plan to explore some remote corners of Chile - Easter Island and Pedro de Atacama, and then go to the highest volcano in the world - Ojos Del Salado. We will wait for news from them.
So the adventure continues!
Portraits of the participants of the Sidley expedition:
Evgeny Fedorov. 7 volcanoes completed the project by climbing Sidley. Now he's staying in Antarctica - he's going with our next group to climb Vinson. Plans to close 7 Summits.
Andrey Kravchenko. Sidley became the fifth volcano out of seven. He goes to Ojos del Salado with our group since January 19th. Plans to close the 7 Volcanoes project. And 7 Summits in the future
Nikolai Tomchak. Sidley completed the 7 Volcanoes project. The best shots from our expedition belong to him.
Igor Rebelsky. Sidley became his 6th volcano. He plans to complete the project of 7 Volcanoes within a year. Ojos remained.
Sergey Vasiliev. Sidley became his 6th volcano. He is currently flying to Ojos and hopes to close 7 Volcanoes. According to the results of the expedition to Sidley, he promises to release Sidley beer. He introduced the tradition of releasing beer at the end of each expedition to the next volcano. We are waiting for "Sidley"!
Oleg Pipkov. After Sidley he closed the 7 Volcanoes project. We are waiting to see what else he will surprise us with!
Yuri Lukyanov became the first representative of Kazakhstan in Sidley. Before that, with the Last Degree Program he reached the South Pole. He plans to close the 7 Volcanoes project this year. His project also includes to finish 7 Summits (6 out of 7) and 14 eight-thousandthers. In the spring he comes with us to Dhaulagiri.
Vladimir Solovyov is the soul of our team, as well as the heart and engine. He was at the origins of the 7 volcanoes project for part of the current team (he assembled the team on Kilimanjaro 3 years ago). And three years later, part of that team successfully completed the 7 Volcanoes project, and some are still in the process of completion.
]]>January 10th. Greetings from Antarctica, Camp Union Glacier, from the group "Empanadas or Chilean pies" expedition to Sidley!
We are still on Union Glacier at 79 degrees South latitude in Antarctica. Yesterday, January 9th, we had a busy day - both our groups and the whole camp celebrated the birthday of the guide of the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev. In the afternoon we organized a picnic with a walk to the Drake Icefall. Along the way, we were lucky to see the Il-76 take off with a team of our friends, Russian pilots. Then we wandered through the blue labyrinths of the icefall for about an hour, took pictures and at the end arranged a buffet in honor of Artyom.
In the evening, dinner was already celebrated globally with toasts, cake and special Antarctic cocktails from Chilean chef Patricio, who has already worked with us twice on Everest. The evening ended with a music lovers club - everyone shared their favorite romantic song.
Today, January 10th, according to the plan, we were supposed to fly to Punta Arenas. But the weather turned bad. Moreover, it even snowed - an extremely rare phenomenon in Antarctica (after all, this is the largest desert on our planet).
We really hope to fly tomorrow…
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January 8th. Greetings from Antarctica, the Union Glacier Camp from the Empanadas group, the Sidley expedition! As you already know, we have successfully climbed the summit of our dreams - Sidley. And, since we were in Antarctica, we decided to fly to the South Pole. The guys spent the night right at the Pole and happily returned to Union today. Now we are here waiting for our departure to the Mainland.
And now another group of our club has just returned from Vinson. A couple of days ago, they successfully climbed the summit under the guidance of our Antarctic super-guide Artem Rostovtsev.
So now we are having a joint gala dinner and celebrating our victories.
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We are not surprised that there are so many Russians on the list of climbers to all the highest volcanoes on all continents ("Seven Volcanoes"). The secret is very simple. In a practical sense, this program was brought to life on a global scale thanks to the idea and activities of Alexander Abramov, as well as the entire 7 Summits Club. Russians visited Sidley Volcano exclusively as part of our groups, or joined mixed teams on our behalf.
List of Russians who completed
the Seven Volcanoes program:
1. Vyacheslav Adrov (Russia) (52) January 18, 2013 Mount Sidley
2. Alexander Abramov (Russia) (47) September 13, 2013 Mount Giluve
3. Olga Rumyantseva (Russia) (36) December 9, 2013 Ojos del Salado
4. Vitaly Simonovich (Russia) (42) December 19, 2013 Ojos del Salado
5. Liana Chabdarova (Russia) (28) January 12, 2015 Ojos del Salado
6. Andrey Filkov (Russia) (49) September 16, 2015 Damavand
7. Vladislav Lachkarev (Russia) (42) January 15, 2019 Mount Sidley
8. Oleg Mezentsev (Russia) (39) January 18, 2020 Mount Sidley
Plus
9-12. January 4, 2024 Mount Sidley
Lyudmila Korobeshko (49)
Oleg Pipkov (54)
Nikolay Tomchak (45)
Evgeny Fedorov (51)
Currently, by country: Russia – 12 representatives, Great Britain - 5, Australia and Romania - 4 each.
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On January 4, our team climbed the highest volcano in Antarctica - Sidley (4265m). The mountain turned out to be much difficult than we expected. The assault from camp (2900) to camp (2900) took about 13 hours.
But they set several records at once. 4 people completed the Seven Volcanoes project. Now the list of Russians who climbed 7 Volcanoes has grown from 8 to 12 people. There are 43 people in the World, Russia is far ahead of everyone! Our "new seven volcanoes": Nikolai Tomchak, Oleg Pipkov, Evgeny Fedorov and I, Lyudmila Korobeshko. The first Kazakhstani is Yura Lukyanov at the top of Sidley.
For Sergey Vasiliev, this is the sixth volcano out of seven. And there is a chance that he will also complete the project soon, since after Sidley he is going straight to Ojos del Salado. Sidley became the sixth of seven volcanoes for Igor Rebelsky, and the fifth for Andrey Kravchenko. Another participant of the trip, Vladimir Solovyov, gave us a great meeting at the assault camp and filmed the best reports about our ascent.
In the spring, we plan to hold a party where we will present special medals for 7 Volcanoes in a solemn atmosphere.
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Hello everyone! This is Lyudmila Korobeshko, the expedition to Sidley. Now we are already at the Sidley base camp. The day before yesterday we successfully went to the top and yesterday we went down from the High Camp to the base camp. We're going to fly to Union today. And then the guys had a new idea. Our program ends on January 10th, when we are scheduled to fly to Punta Arenas. So, we have 4 free days. We decided to fly to the South Pole to celebrate Christmas there.
Photos from previous expeditions
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Good afternoon! Greetings to all from the Sidley assault camp from the group "Empanades — Chilean pies". Today is January 3rd and we are at the Sidley assault camp. Yesterday, January 2, we arrived at the base camp at an altitude of 2200, approximately, on a large plane. We spent the night and literally just came to the assault camp. Leaving at 12 o'clock in the afternoon, at 12-30, by 9 pm, not quickly, but with heavy sledges, we came to the assault camp at an altitude of 3000. Everything is fine with us. Now we are setting up a camp and tomorrow we want to go climbing. So keep your fingers and fists on us. Tomorrow we are going to storm the highest volcano in Antarctica — Sidley. Everything is fine, the whole team feels great.
Photos from previous expeditions
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Alex Abramov from Aconcagua Base Camp, where this year the 7 Summits Club has six groups from the beginning of December to the end of February. We are the best!
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January 2nd. Greetings from Antarctica from the Union Glacier Camp! In just a couple of hours, our group on Sidley should fly away. The flight takes about 4-5 hours. On the mountain, and indeed within a radius of 700 km, we will be alone… This is also a unique expedition to Sidley.
Yesterday we all flew to Antarctica from Punta Arenas. Immediately upon landing, we were met by an American climber, David (he is the first American to close the 7 Volcanoes project). He asked us to contact James Stone, who keeps world statistics on 7 Volcanoes, and inform him about those who complete the project in our expedition and also send an updated route trek.
Artyom Rostovtsev, who recently returned from the Pole, met us at the camp itself. He's going to lead the group to Vinson now. We were all well fed, had a tour of the camp, then we set up tents and made wishes - for many it was the first night on a new continent - in Antarctica. The Antarctic white night passed quietly.
It's almost noon now. We have to leave for Sidley in an hour. There will be no Internet there anymore - we will make satellite calls. Follow our messages. They promise that it will be very cold this season in Sydney. According to the forecast, up to -45 at the top …
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Hello everyone from Punta Arenas Airport! Happy New Year to everyone! Yesterday, for us, the intrigue lasted until the last moment. In the morning we lived in a waiting mode for departure to Antarctica. At 6 p.m. Chile time (it's midnight in Moscow), we decided to relax a little and celebrate the New Year ... and then the flight was announced. More precisely, we were informed of the departure time - earlier on the morning of January 1. So we didn't celebrate for long - we had to prepare for departure. But according to the Chilean tradition, we put on yellow underpants for the New Year. And everything worked out.
We are already at the airport, preparing for departure. We hope to send you greetings from Antarctica from Union in 5-6 hours.
See you soon! Lyudmila Korobeshko.
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Greetings from the edge of the world — from Punta Arenas! Yesterday, December 29, we had a day of preparation for the flight to Antarctica. We handed over our things, weighed ourselves, and received boarding passes. In the evening, we went to the team of pilots who have been flying IL-76 here for many years. We brought their favorite dish from their now distant homeland - herring! We are currently waiting for departure. However, the weather is not very good at Union yet. Nevertheless, we hope and wait with our fingers crossed.
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Greetings from the edge of the world from Punta Arenas, Chile! Both our expeditions to the highest points of Antarctica, Sidley and Vinson, are assembled! Yesterday, the smartest members managed to drive to the legendary national park Torres del Paine Park and admire the famous peaks, lakes with icebergs and met wild exotic animals and birds. Those who arrived yesterday managed to run around the entire Punta Arenas and buy everything necessary for the flight to Antarctica. And we also attended the ALE briefing, got the tips and watched a cool movie about what awaits us in Antarctica. And most importantly, we performed an important rite for good luck - we kissed the native's foot at the monument to Magellan in the central square.
Today we are handing over our things and tomorrow, according to the plan, we will fly to Union Glacier, where Artem Rostovtsev, who successfully reached the South Pole with the group yesterday, should be waiting for us! See you soon!
The head of the expedition to Sidley is Lyudmila Korobeshko.
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In the morning, the most active part arrived - those who are closing the Seven Volcanoes project. We went straight from the airport to watch the ships, then checked the equipment and then the guys rushed to Fort Bulnes (a historical place, the southernmost Chilean settlement once). They want to visit as many places as possible, because Patagonia is the dream of all boys. There are many interesting locations here. We are waiting for the rest members by this evening.
Lyudmila Korobeshko - a guide to Sidley and Elena Abramova - the manager of our Antarctic expeditions and a representative in Chile.
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Simultaneously with active preparations for Everest, Makalu and K2, we are also preparing for a large-scale season in Antarctica 2023-2024. This week we met with our partners for Antarctica (ALE). We specially flew to this meeting in Salt Lake City. And we have just incredible news!
A very large and unusual season in Antarctica is planned. In addition to our standard programs "Ascent to the highest peak of Antarctica Vinson" and expeditions to the South Pole "Last Degree", this time we will have two large groups to the highest volcano in Antarctica — Sidley.
The 7 Summits Club is the first and only company in Russia that started 20 years ago and annually organizes ascents in Antarctica on the Vinson Massif as part of the Seven Summits project and to Sidley as part of the Seven Volcanoes project.
Usually, only 8 people per year are allowed to climb Mount Sidley from all over the world. But thanks to successful negotiations, we will have two big groups in the 2024 season!
Join us!
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Alexander Abramov: "In The Workshop of Fyodor Konyukhov. We were planning new trips. And new climbing in Antarctica."
The formation of groups to Antarctica is coming to an end, but you can still have time to join our groups of the 2022/2023 season. Programs and details on the website. The ice continent is real space!
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We remind you that in this Antarctic season, the 7 Summis Club will have 4 groups on Mt.Vinson, 1 groupl at the Last Degree (skiing to the South Pole), 1 group on Mt.Sidley and a Flight to the South Pole. And there's even one parachute jump. And also among the participants of our expeditions is a climbing star - Nirmal Purja.
Vladimir Kotlyar, Artem Rostovtsev and Alexander Dorozhukov are among the super-guides of the 7 Summits Club in Antarctica this season.
And besides, from December 1, Alexander Abramov will start to Antarctica with a unique automobile expedition.
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We usually complete preparations for Antarctica in the calendar summer. That is, by the beginning of September, all the lists of tourists traveling and flying to Antarctica were always ready. But this year we are just getting out of the covid press. Will there be a season in Antarctica? There was no affirmative answer to this question for a long time. And it took longer than usual to form groups. There was demand, and the demand is deferred. Since last season was completely canceled by the American logistics organizers on the Ice Continent. Now all issues have been resolved and agreed. There will be a season and we already have groups. But in other countries, booking is worse than usual. And there are unsold seats in many positions. We publish a full list of our arrivals. The availability of seats may be confirmed, maybe not. Guaranteed to have one place from January 6 on Vinson and Sidley.
Antarctica. Climbing Vinson. November 23 - December 8, December 4 - December 19, December 15 - December 30, December 26 - January 10. January 6 - January 21.
Guide Artem Rostovtsev. Cost: $45,900.
Antakrtida. The South Pole. December 4 - December 19, December 15 - December 30, December 31 - January 15. Guide Artem Rostovtsev. Cost: $65,900
Antarctica. Sidley (The Seven Volcanoes program). January 6 - January 21. Guide: Lyudmila Korobeshko. Cost: $60,990.
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January 6 - January 21. Guide: Lyudmila Korobeshko
Cost:$60,990.
Program and details
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We compare a trip to Antarctica, especially to its central part, with a visit to another planet. These are absolutely unique impressions and emotions, this is a memory for a lifetime. This is something that it is better not to postpone, if there is an opportunity!
We invite you to join our next groups.
Ascent to the highest peak of Antarctica, Mount Vinson (4892m) with a guide Artem Rostovtsev. One of the key ones in the "Seven Summits" project.
Program
Climbing the highest volcano in Antarctica, Mount Sidley (4181m) with Lyudmila Korobeshko. The key moment in the project "Seven Volcanoes". There are not so many people who have passed this test in the world.
Program
And a combo, "two in one": Climbing Mount Vinson (4892m) + climbing Sidley volcano (4181m).
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I was on summit! Everything is fine, we went down to High Camp, today we spend the night here.
The Basler plane is waiting for the group below, so the climbers must catch the Union Glacier before the last scheduled plane leaves for the mainland. It should take place on January 20. On it, Artyom Rostovtsev should fly to Punta Arenas with a third our group of climbers on Vinson.
Photo by Andrew Hughes
Oleg with Nims in Moscow
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Hello from Antarctica! I report: we are in Low Camp, in the morning we plan to climb the summit. Wish us good luck!
The ALE team arrived in the Sidley Volcano area on Monday, January 13th. However, weather conditions did not allow to begin climbing in the first three days.
ALE Team on Sidley ()
David Roskelley (USA) *
Vaughan de la Harpe (South Africa) *
Andrew Hughes (USA)
Arthur Marsden (South Africa) *
Oleg Mezentsev (Russia) *
Donald O’Connor (South Africa)
Roxanne Vogel (USA)
Rob Williams (South Africa)
Andy Chapman (UK - ALE guide)
Josh Hoeschen (USA - ALE guide)
* - those who, if successful, complete the Seven Volcanoes program.
Andrew Hughes, Roxanne Vogel and Oleg Mezentsev climbed Vinson before flying to Sidley.
Oleg Mezentsev in Punta Arenas
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Vladislav Lachkarev became the third man in the world, who finished program "Seven summits, seven volcanoes and two poles"! And the youngest one…
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According to updated data, the ascent on the highest volcano of Antarctica Mount Sidley took place on January 15. The group that gathered by ALE company, was led by Chilean guide Maria Paz (Pachi) Ibarra. It was an employee of the American Fred Aldridge (aviation coordinator) and three people who completed by this ascent program "Seven volcanoes". This Indian Satyarup Siddhanta, the Hungarian Sandor (Sanya) Toth and the Russian, the representative of the 7 Summits Club Vladislav Lachkarev.
Vlad Lachkarev is 42 years old and he is one of the most prominent businessmen of Irkutsk (Siberia, Lake Baikal). A recognized professional, founder of several companies, former Director of a large enterprise, an intelligent, strong-willed and consistent person. At one time, he struck all of us in the 7 Summits Club by his full report on the ascent of Everest.
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New Year greetings to all our friends, all our friends! Anyone who has followed our expedition, Thanks a lot ! Best wishes !
Pictures from this season:
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The legendary mountaineer domestic Vladimir Shataev came Received Yoki.ru personally than not a little surprised. It's no joke, our guest this "Snow Leopard". The idea is we must have to go to him at the meeting, armed with a tape recorder and camera. However, Vladimir Nikolayevich, a modest man, democratic, open and "star does not suffer from the disease." Conversely, a lively interest in what is happening and willingly share their experiences, memories and experiences.
Vladimir Nikolayevich, we know that your "mountain" experience includes 46 years of almost continuous practice. And how you came to climbing?
When I was 15 years old, I lived with my aunt in Kislovodsk and every day saw Elbrus. Of course - this spectacle thrilled boyish imagination, I found a partner and we both went to the foot of the mountain. Imagine that we had nothing with him except the blankets. When three years ago, I traveled by car to the places he himself was surprised. It is unclear how we as children were 70 kilometers without equipment. But the fact remains that at the breaking point we reached the glacier, though it nearly killed crossing a river. When we returned back, I'm his friend said that up to 25 years of age must climb Elbrus.
After this incident, I was seriously interested in rock climbing , began to study books. Realizing how difficult and dangerous this sport. By the time I was seriously engaged in athletics came in "Spartacus" and got a ticket to the base in the Caucasus. As a result, in 1922 I already had two climb Elbrus . And then have dragged on, eventually I became an instructor.
As you consider how much of modern Russian youth is interested in climbing?
Judge for yourself in the Soviet Union officially climbing involved 35,000 people. Today, such statistics are not, in my estimation are constantly traveling to the mountains around 5,000 climbers. And - this is a high-level athletes who are on the shoulder 6A level and above. In fact - they are elite.
But, unfortunately, they have about 40 years. That is, those who came to climbing back in the old days. Young people too. The last two or three years, the interest appears to be enhanced. Moreover, that the different committees allocate funds for the development of mountain sport. Therefore znachkisty and dischargers have the opportunity to travel to the mountains.
True, climbing still can not now be called a mass sport. The main problem is that actually stayed bases. Only in the Caucasus remained the camp. For young people had all been available, voucher worth 30 rubles. And now the system is completely destroyed, it is not restored.
However, for example, in Moscow there are about 20 clubs, where you can practice and mountaineering and climbing.
By the way, what is the difference between rock climbing and mountaineering?
Paradoxical. But those who engaged in rock climbing, mostly rocks themselves do not even see. Previously, indeed often the competitions among the climbers, athletes climbed to the natural topography. And now everything is being done in the halls, on the artificial surface.
Climbers imagine this can not. They need the mountains, a real relief, and nature. In addition, climbing expensive, because the necessary equipment. The same backpack, ice pick, crampons, all worth serious money.
p align = "justify"> climbing all over the world called sport climbing. In some countries, like France, it is taught as a separate discipline. Indeed, children like to climb, why not develop and does not pay for the benefit of the child.
Vladimir Nikolaevich, saying that you have conquered all "seventhousanders?
I have a 113 number in the "Snow Leopard" (laughs)
("Snow Leopard" - is official and an extremely rare title in mountaineering. For him the assignment it was necessary to conquer the all seventhousanders the former Soviet Union: Communism peak, Lenin, Victory Korjenevskaya. Then he added another of Khan-Tengri).
And outside the Soviet Union, where were you?
I was at eight-two.: Shisha Pangma and Everest. Also, I involuntarily participated in the program climb to the highest point of the continents: Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, McKinley in North America, Aconcagua in South America, Kilimanjaro in Africa, Kosciusko in Australia and Vinson in Antarctica. Of these I have left to conquer only Vinson, though hard to get to Antarctica, this requires 30 thousand dollars.
Interestingly, the man leads in the mountains? "What kind of feelings he feels, being on top?
Some special feelings on the top of the conquered rarely feel. Usually not before. Although, if itineraries lighter lucky with the weather and see from the height of all this beauty, it certainly touches the heart. It would be desirable for an hour or half to stay there and watch. This gives a charge of vivacity that his missing almost a year.
Why do people go to the mountains ... all individually. One way to overcome this yourself, others want to demonstrate their power, others seek escape from the routine and bytovuhi that surrounds it. Fourth, for example, in the mountains can guide the groups, but in life to be ordinary clerical and invisible people. In the mountains, it changes, it is the head, depends on him a lot, almost every step. Not by accident earlier among climbers had a lot of physicists, chemists, scientists. People dumb distant from real life. Those who took a mountaineering school, many life situations are more easily overcome. Indeed, in the mountains, they face challenges that require a momentary solution: have the tent set and the food is cooking, and washing, and negotiate with the drivers of cars.
Sounds in the mountains ... What are they?
Silence. Than the quieter the better. I remember one of the most wonderful moments when we go on-Shisha Pangma. I left the base camp along a small mountain stream in which trout splashing and just two o'clock sat in that silence.
You meet a strange? Yeti, for example.
There are also strange, and luck, which then settle in mountaineering folklore. And that's not Bigfoot , or UFOs are not met.
Extreme situations are? After all, the group may consist of climbers to the preparation of various levels ..
Extreme sports in the mountains - it is a natural situation. Any bad weather, storm, already fraught with troubles. Security depends on the manager. Sometimes "gornyashka" (mountain sickness) is such that people have to bear. From lack of oxygen a person can be either a lack of energy, apathy or irritability.We had a case where people just sat down and decided not to go any further, I had to take his backpack and get to follow her footsteps. It is true, then he crossed himself and walked to the summit - 6100
And what more difficult to climb or descend?
Fifty-fifty, although some believe that to go down harder.
What's in your future plans?
Just a few days we will travel to Turkey on Ararat . This will be My sixth ascent of the famous mountain.
On this expedition Yoki.ru tell our readers a later date.
Vladimir Shataev:
Born May 1, 1937
Awarded:
The medal "For Labour Valour - 10/05/1972 city (№ 165197);
The Order of Honour - 01/09/1990 city (№ 1524514);
Medal "Veteran of Labour" - 5/22/1985 city;
Medal "For the glory of Ossetia" - June 1995;
Commander of the Order "Edelweiss", 1 st degree (№ 09);
Anniversary medal "Golden Jubilee of Mount Everest (Nepal).
Began athletics in 1955 - two-Union junior record in the relay 4 ? 800 meters.
Went to the mountains in 1959: the first peak in the Caucasus - Gumachi (3,805 m).
Graduated from high school instructor in 1961 at the climber camp "Dzhantugan"
Currently, public office: President, Union of mountaineers and rock climbers from Russia on Feb. 7, 2000, Executive Secretary of the Mountaineering Federation of Russia with 20 November 1993, Executive Secretary of the Eurasian Association of Mountaineering and Climbing on December 1, 1996. Member of the Board of the International Union of climbing Associations (UIAA) - 1997-2000.
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