Providing expeditions
since 2005

The right name of this beautiful mountain is Peak Evghenii Korzhenevskoy, shortly Peak Korzhenevskoy. With 710 5meters, it is the third highest peak in the Pamir after Peak Kommunizma and Peak Lenin, and the fourth highest in the former Soviet Union. The classic routes up Peak Korzhenevskaya and Peak Kommunizma start from the same base camp in the Moskvina Glade. Many climbers attempt both mountains using Korzhenevskaya to prepare for higher ...

Days
21
Group
from 6
Price
7 110 $
Deposit
1 000 $
Day 1
Arrival in Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation.
Day 2
Helicopter flight to Moskvina Glade (4400m). Accommodation in Base Camp (BC).
Day 3
Rest, preparations and acclimatization in BC.
Day 4
Acclimatizing climb of Vorobyova Peak (5691m) with camp at 5300m.
Day 5
Ascent of Vorobyova Peak, descent to BC.
Day 6
Rest day
Day 7
Acclimatizing outing to Korzhenevskaya Peak. Ascent to Camp 1 (5100m). Following a well marked path we cross the Moskvina Glacier to its head (5100m). We either stop here, or, if the time and remaining strength allow, go higher to 5300m and pitch the camp here. 3-4 fixed ropes may be used for this passage.
Day 8
In case we have stopped yesterday at 5100m, we go without loads to 5300m. The path traverses the slope, comes to the junction of the chaotic glaciers side and its rocky bank and goes on its rocks. Stone-falls are a real danger here, so helmets are a must. The camp at 5300m sits on the right bank moraine. From there we descend to BC.
Day 9
Rest day in BC
Day 10
Rest day in BC
Day 11
We go to 5100m, pitch tents and camp.
Day 12
Ascent to Camp 2 (5800m). We climb up a wide ice and snow slope of moderate steepness (with crampons on), then rope up and cross some crevasses at its upper part. The approach to Camp 2 is rather a steep slope jutting to the peaks south-west rock wall. The tents are protected from rock-falls by some overhangs.
Day 13
Descent to BC
Day 14
Rest day in BC
Day 15
Rest day in BC
Day 16
Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m)
Day 17
Ascent to Camp 2 (5800m)
Day 18
Ascent to Camp 3 (6400m). We put on crampons and in a long traverse move along the ice-snow slope under the south-west wall towards the Camp 3. The slope is steep, so we use 4 fixed ropes. Besides, due to rock-fall and avalanche threat, this traverse presents a serious objective danger. A 100m high steep pitch demands almost vertical fixed ropes. Having climbed over a minor pinnacle called Parus we come to a saddle (6100m), where several tents can be put at a pinch. Yet, a much better place (the normal one for the assault camp), is further along the ridge, behind a 20m high vertical rock step, on a wide snow slope (6400m).
Day 19
Ascent day. First we walk on a wide snow slope, then move, using either fixed ropes or belaying, along a ridge narrow like a knife (6550m). At 6700m the ridge flattens into the summit slope, then the easy summit ridge.
Day 20
Descent to Camp 3 (6400m)
Day 21
Descent to BC
Day 22
Reserve day
Day 23
Reserve day
Day 24
Reserve day
Day 25
Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation.
Day 26
Flight home

Deposit for reservations 1 000 $

Full payment 60 days before

No refund if you cancel less than 60 days!

Date
Guides
Price
Group
Date
July 08 - July 28, 2024
Price
7 110 $

Price includes

 
Leader-guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest Summiter)
Extra guide for the ascent
All local permits and registrations
All group land transfers according to the program
Bus drive from Dushanbe to Djirgital (8-10hr)
Return helicopter flight from Djirgital to BC on Moskvina Glade with luggage allowance of 30kg per person
Hotels accommodation (2*, 2 nights)
Food-stuffs, gas, stoves and tents for high camps
Group climbing gear
Using fixed ropes on the route
T-shirt with the 7 Summits Club logo
Service in Moskvina Glade BC includes:
accommodation in tents for 2-3
three meals a day
shower, sauna, toilet, left luggage
medical service
walkie-talkies for climbing
 
 

Price does not include

- bringing loads by porters from 4200m to 5300m (8euro per 1 kg); from 5300m to 5800m (12euro); from 5800m to 6300m (20euro); over 6300m – 28euro
- return airfare to Bishkek
- porters for personal stuff: from 4200
- personal equipment
- medical insurance
- Kyrghiz visa
- overweight on helicopter flights: 2.5euro per 1 kg
- direct flight Dushanbe – Djirgital: 200euro per person one way
 

Tajikistan, Korzhenevskaya peak (7105m), Mountaineering


Trip overview

 

MoscowDushanbe – Djirgital – Moskvina Glade – Summit - Moscow

 


Why go there?

Evghenii Korzhenevxkoy Peak (or just “Korzhenevsky” as Russian climbers call it, stands 13km north of Komminizma (Communism) Peak, in the northern part of the Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. The first scientist to see and measure the peak (on the 23rd of August in 1910) was a Russian geographer, Nikolay Korzhenevsky.

He named it after his wife Evgheniya, but as an official geographic name it appeared on the maps only in 1927.

The first successful attempt was made in 1957, on the 22nd of August, and the climbers (team from St.Petersburg led by A. Ugarov) went from the Korzhenevskaya Glacier by the north ridge.

The climbing routes on the peak differ greatly: about 10 variants of difficulty. The easiest and safest one is the classic: from the Korzhenevskaya Glacier by the south ridge.

Important!

1. In case the group size does not come to six, we reserve the right to raise the price.
2. Trip’s starting date is preliminary. It depends on the local helicopter flight schedule and will be fixed not later than 40 days prior to leaving for Bishkek

 


Good advice

When going to 7000m do not rely on your youth (in case you are young), or on your well-preserved health (if you are not in your first youth)! For several months do more or less systematic training, simple jogging is perfect for that. Despite the fact that the route is not technical, two factors, the unpredictable Pamirs’ weather and the altitude, can make the climb quite a challenge even for seasoned climbers. You should not regard it as just a “snow plod”. The success depends on your fitness, well planned acclimatization period, right set of gear, good guides and, last but not least, a bit of luck.

 

 


Tips guidelines (important information!)

You entrust your life, health, your time and money to the guides. And the guides take this responsibility for you and for the success of the whole trip. They are doing this 24 hours. 10-20 USD per day is expected as the normal amount of tips for the Guides and the staff of the program. If you liked everything about the trip, please don't forget to thank them. You can give the tips directly to the Main Guide and he will distribute it among the staff.


Necessary travel papers (documents)

Passport
2 photos 3x4
Kyrghiz and Tajik visas (if necessary)


By air and by land

Flight to Djirgital in a Russian aircraft AN-24 (or drive in a comfortable minivan)
Flight to Moskvina Glade in a Russian helicopter MI-9


Accommodation

Hotel** in Dushanbe
Large stationary tents (for 2) in BC
Strong double tents (for 2-3) in high camps


Meals

In stationary camp 3 meals a day in a large comfortable mess-tent. The food is prepared by professional cook (vegetarian menu is available)
In high camps meals are cooked on gas stoves with the help of guides. The water is melted snow.


Staff

Guide from 7 Summits Club (Everest summiter)


Health and medical insurance

Doctor in BC. Our guide will have a first aid kit. We strongly recommend to bring with your own specific medicines you might need. Besides, we recommend to start taking some vitamin complex 3 weeks before the expedition. A very good idea would be to test and acclimatize yourself, say, on Elbrus (in June).


Weather

As in all high mountain weather is quite unpredictable, but July and August are the most favorable months for the ascent.


Extra expenses

Meals in towns
Food-stuffs for high camps
Direct flight Dushanbe Djirgital: 200euro per person one way


Personal gear

Large expedition bag (optional)
Warm sleeping bag (good for -20C)
Foam pad
Crampons (we recommend Grivel G12)
Rucksack 80-90 liters
Rucksack 40-60 liters
Harness (Petzl or Black Diamond)
Self belay device
Screwgate karabiners - 3-4 (Petzl, BD or Yatis)
Jumar ascender (Petzl)
Collapsible ski poles
Thermos
Rappel device
Ice axe
Head torch
Eating utensil
Personal washing implements
Trekking shoes
Plastic boots (Everest by Millet or Scarpa Vega)
Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
Gore Tex jacket with a large hood
Gore Tex trousers (semi-overalls preferably)
Windblock jacket
Windblock trousers
Jacket Polartec - 100 - 2 items
Warm underwear - 2 sets
Personal underwear
Polartec gloves 2 pairs
Thinsulate gloves
Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
Balaclava
Warm hat
Windblock face mask
UV protection glasses (plastic, not glass!)
Ski goggles (preferably)
Gaiters
Pee bottle
Accumulators and accessories for your camera(s)