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News from Everest. Viktor Volodin's group (8000 Club) is going to storm Mount Everest from Camp 4 on the Southern Saddle at 9 p.m. today. The wind, due to which there have been no ascents for three days, is subsiding. As it was predicted. Unfortunately, Leonid decided to end the expedition. He has already safely descended to the base camp.

 Alex Abramov's group (the 7 Summits Club) in full force went up to Camp 3 and is now resting.

This simply does not happen on the Giluve volcano! So that during the two days of approach and ascent we never put on raincoats. On the first day, we reached the base camp by a rapid march through the jungles and swamps. In the evening, we worked out the movement in ropes, simultaneously learning how to knit the necessary knots. And the very next day our group "Sun Shine" fully justified its name. Dressed only in longsleeves, under the sun, we admired the views from the top of the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania!

The ascent was wonderful, everyone worked smoothly, and the ropes did not slow down the progress. We quickly went down to the camp, packed up our things and ran to the bus, which took us, satisfied, to the shower and bed.

The gala evening with the presentation of medals is scheduled for the next day. But now we sincerely congratulate the team from Uzbekistan, the members in our expedition became the first representatives of their country at the summit of Giluwe! And, of course, Andrey Kravchenko, who completed the Seven Volcanoes program!  Hurrah!

Guides Boris Egorov, Olga Rumyantseva and Maria Besogonova.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! We walked on the Pastukhov Rocks today. The weather was cheerful, a blizzard drove us from the bottom of the cliffs. When we left the cable car station, everything was fine. But alas, these are mountains, the weather changes very quickly.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

There's a very strong wind up there today, it's been blowing all night. Our team decided to spend another day at an altitude of 6500m in Camp 2.

Viktor Volodin's team went to Camp 4 on the South Col. I think there is a strong wind there now.

We will go to Camp 3 tomorrow. We are resting today.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! Continuing our acclimatization, today we went up to the Refuge of Eleven, where we conducted snow and ice classes. We rode on the ass, as in childhood, snapped carabiners on a rope. Unfortunately, the weather does not allow us to see all the beauty of the surrounding mountains. But it's good that at least it's not very cold.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 After a good rest, our team went out to storm Mount Everest. Many expeditions to 8000 meters were canceled or ended in failure. We hope that our experience will help us.

 So, our schedule:

May 14 - Camp 2

May 15 - Camp 3

May 16 - South Saddle

May 17 ascent and descent to Camp 2

May 18 descent to the Base Camp

On May 19th, wait for us in Kathmandu.

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the KAPAK group from the Elbrus region! Today we started our acclimatization on the slopes of Mount Cheget. The weather is unstable and constantly changing. Sometimes it snows, sometimes it rains, sometimes the sun is shown through the clouds. We went up to the Ai cafe at a height of 2700 m, ate chebureks with different berries. And we went down to the hotel. We're moving on tomorrow.

Olga Rumyantseva, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

 Hello everyone from Papua New Guinea! Yesterday, the second group of those wishing to climb the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania, Giluwe, began to gather in the city of Mount Hagen.

Due to transportation problems, not all participants were able to arrive on time. But this morning the whole group got together, and we went on an adventure.

To begin with, we visited the village of Playa, where we got acquainted with local customs. We watched how food was prepared in a way called MU-MU - sweet potatoes, herbs and meat were baked in a pit using red-hot stones.

Then we talked with the locals, watched the national dances and costumes of this village. We got acquainted with the leader and his wives, looked at the place where the skulls of previous leaders are kept.

After this interesting and informative excursion, after tasting the meat already cooked on the rocks, we went to the lodge, from where we will go climbing tomorrow morning.

Olga Rumyantseva, Boris Egorov, Maria Besogonova and the Sun Shine group are in touch with you.

On May 8, 2024, a historic chess tournament was held at the Everest base camp, which was attended by professional chess players and amateurs, climbers and walkers, Russians and Nepalese. It is very important that the competition was held according to all sports rules, under the close supervision of professional referee Sergey Moiseev. The parties had a very strict time limit, but they were not only recorded, but also broadcast over the Internet. All possible difficulties were overcome, and in the end we got an event that we at the 7 Summits Club have the right to be proud of.

Full gallery (171 pictures)

Full tournament record from the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Fragments of a chess tournament

Awarding

The 7 Summits Club congratulates our friends and comrades from the Transglobal Car expedition on completing the Arctic stage of their record-breaking route! We remind you that one of the authors of the idea and initiator of the project is the President of the 7 Summits Club, Alexander Abramov, who took part in the first stage – a run through the northern regions of the United States. He was not allowed to enter Canada in a sneaky way, canceling his valid visa right at the border without reason.

   The Arctic stage began on February 8, when the team left the Canadian town of Yellowknife. On February 22, the expedition left solid ground and entered the ice of the Arctic Ocean. A team consisting of 13 people went on a route on all-terrain vehicles "Ymelya". On April 6, the North Pole was reached and the expedition turned south towards Greenland. On May 10, the shore of this largest island in the world was reached. Further along the way, our expedition was accompanied by the Danish military, who demanded non-stop movement to the final point of the Arctic stage of the Nord Station military base. April 11 was the final day. In 80 days of a unique, record-breaking crossing, the expedition covered a distance of 6141 km.

  Vasily Shakhnovsky, the final message of the Arctic stage of the expedition:

As I expected, we were forbidden to take photos and videos at the base. They collected passports and conducted a full-fledged search of cars for weapons. Vaudeville developed in parallel with our departure. The police insisted that we leave Greenland as soon as possible. As a result, in exchange for agreeing to leave today, they will help us with putting the cars in order.

  In the end, 6 people are leaving today: Badulin, Safonov, Zaitsev, Andrew, Gavrilov and I. The remaining six are Elagin, Vankov, Ershov, Obihod, Dubinin and Larin. They stay for one day, put the cars in order and put them on conservation and fly to Svalbard tomorrow. There will be no photos of the base. But I want to say that the order here is perfect. Despite all the fears, in the end everything was agreed. We are sitting now, waiting for the plane.

  We took off safely and landed in Svalbard two hours later.

We stopped to take a collective photo against the background of Yemelyas.

More information about the expedition:

Transglobal Car Expedition Website

Expedition route

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On May 8, 2024, a group of the 7 Summits Club with guides Boris Egorov and Olga Rumyantseva climbed Wilhelm Peak, the highest peak in the country of Papua New Guinea.

 Two days before, after a short move, we found ourselves in a paradise called Betty's Lodge, where we spent half a day among flowers, visited a trout farm and tasted fresh fish. The next day we moved to the base camp, making a trek through the picturesque jungle. This beautiful region pleased us not only with the already familiar views of jungles and swamps, but also with the most beautiful powerful waterfalls and mountain lakes, in which the most cheerful adventurers swam both before and after the ascent.

The ascent itself turned out to be quite a physically expensive event with elements of rock climbing and acrobatics. It was very difficult, but we all coped. Such an adventure will be remembered by everyone for a long time.

In the evening we returned to our beautiful lodge.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

 May 11th. Greetings from the Dhaulagiri Base Camp! Yesterday, half of the camp went down. It was a fairly large Indian expedition (about 10 participants and the same number of Sherpas). They spent a month and a half on the mountain and after another unsuccessful attempt to hang the ropes (on May 8-9, the national team tried to do this, but only reached 7,400), they decided to curtail the expedition.

As a result, our team of 6 people remained at Dhaulagiri, and another international team of 7 people.

As of yesterday morning, the input data was as follows

  In fact, there are no fixed ropes. Those that the team re-(!) hung up to 7,400 a day ago are already under the snow. It needs to be re-hung, and from C1 - there are many cracks opened.

  The condition of the site from C2 to C3 is very avalanche-prone.

  The ropes are all used up, we need to bring new ones from Kathmandu.

  And the main thing is the weather. Snowfall is expected daily for the next 8-9 days…

After weighing all this, we decided to wind down. The members of the international team said they were waiting for our decision (they have almost no Sherpas for making the route). And they were very happy when they found out that we were winding down. They said that everything was correct. By the way, there are very interesting characters in the national team. Anna Tybor from Poland, who planned to ski down from the top of Dhaulagiri.  Arjun is a Hindu who became the youngest climber to descend Lhotse and Everest in 2010. He is making a 14X8000 project. He says that he has agreed on the possibility of entering Pakistan, and this is the main problem for Hindus. He hopes to become the first Indian to climb all 14 eight-tiers. Aiden is a climber from Turkey who has climbed 10 out of 14. This is his third time on Dhaulagiri. And some more interesting characters. We've become friends here.

After making a difficult decision, we had a farewell dinner.

We've been waiting for a helicopter to fly to Pokhara all morning.   By 13.00 he almost reached us, then everything was covered with clouds and heavy snow began to fall.

We hope to leave tomorrow morning now… Some participants have ideas to try to rush to Kangchenjunga and Lhotse. But first we need to get to Kathmandu.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

The Everest-24 team, led by Alexander Abramov, finished their vacation in Namche Bazaar.

On May 12th, we all fly to the Everest Base Camp. On May 13th, we have rest and preparation. On May 14th we will start at Camp 2. On May 15th - Camp 3. On May 16th - Camp 4 on the South Col and on the night of May 16th to 17th we go out to storm Everest. Wish us good luck!

Valery Babanov and Eduard Kubatov also rested here in Namche Bazaar. Valera plans Everest without additional oxygen, Eduard – Lhotse, also without additional oxygen.

Alla Mishina conveyed the following information.

Kangchenjunga, 05/11/2024.  Message from Sergey Seliverstov:

"Yesterday at 19.30 everyone went out to storm the summit. We turned around from 7700m - a lot of snow, avalanche danger. We went down to the Base Camp".

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 8000 Club, reports from the Everest base camp:

 Very big greetings from Everest Base Camp, from the 8000 Club team!  Today is the deadline for preparation. Everything is in the collection, everything is thought out to the smallest detail. There is an acquaintance with the Sherpas, a discussion of the movement schedule, overnight stays, and most importantly, this is the day of the assault. All participants are in a good mood and ready to start. Wait for news from the vastness of Mount Everest!

Alexander Dorojukov, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the Office Climbers group! Yesterday we had an assault day.  The weather was not very pleasant, unfortunately, not every member was at the top. But each participant reached his own peak, and everyone was satisfied.

Evgeny Fedyunin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Hello everyone On May 10th, the group "To the Summit" of the 7 Summits Club made an ascent on the summit of West Elbrus 5642m! The weather was not good at all and frayed my nerves.  In conditions of minimal visibility, we achieved our goal and safely (though not quickly) descended to the refuge.  And then to the hotel!

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Yesterday, on May 9, our team was able to fly from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar with great difficulty in very bad weather. The flight was extreme. In conditions of very poor visibility, we flew very low. We are currently vacationing in Namche. Bars, massages, food and sleep.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region! Today our Super group has climbed the highest mountain in our country, as well as the highest in Europe Elbrus (5642m). The weather didn't favor us, but we were able to do it.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 8000 Club, reports from the Everest base camp:

Good afternoon! Today, the 8000 Club team went up to the helipad from morning to early, after a rest, hoping to fly to the base camp. At first, there was no light and no hint that we would get to the base camp today. But less than an hour later, our yellow helicopter loomed in the sky. And within an hour, the whole group was delivered to the Base Camp. Here, as usual, we were warmly and well received, and accordingly, we were well fed. Then we held another class on the use of oxygen equipment. Each participant independently tried this wonderful device on himself. Tomorrow we have a day of preparation and training for entering the high-altitude area.  And on the night of May 12th, we go out to storm. All feel good. Wish us an easy and safe road, and an easy descent to the base camp, and then home!