Abramov Alex

Alexander Abramov is in touch on his way to K2 Base Camp:

Yesterday was a great hot day. We had breakfast at 5 in the morning and at 6 in the morning we were already on our way. After 9 am it gets very hot, so we go with umbrellas from the sun. The Karakoram Mountains are something incredible. The views are striking in their beauty. In parallel with us there are 4 more groups. Many familiar climbers. They say that there is an unusual amount of snow this year, and the season is just beginning.

There is also unverified information that this year is a record for the number of expeditions to K2, about 25 expeditions. I am going to K2 Base Camp with Nepali and Pakistani guides.  Our team bears the proud name of GENKA2. Wish us good luck!

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Today, the Sherpa team of the K2 High Alttude Gene project left with all the things from Skardu. And after 5 hours we successfully reached the last village of Askole. The height is 2900m. 140 porters were already waiting for us here, who would take all our belongings to the K2 Base Camp in 7 days. We are already spending the night in tents. All 20 high-altitude Sherpa porters feel you perfectly. We have a long road ahead of us on the Baltoro Glacier. We will go, eat and sleep. Get fit and fat for hard work on the most difficult and dangerous mountain above 8000m.

The head of the K2 Altitude Gene expedition is Alexander Abramov.

By the way, I met Lhakpa, who climbed Mount Everest 10 times. Now she goes to K2.

President of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov reports from Pakistan:

Today in Skardu we collected all the goods, bought everything, packed everything. The biggest shock among local porters was caused by 200 liters of Coca Cola, which 10 porters will carry to the K2 Base Camp. As is known, CO2 is washed out at altitude. And this will be our know-how. Coca Cola, of course, will not replace 120 oxygen cylinders for us, but according to our calculation it will give the necessary acceleration.

Tomorrow our team of 12 Nepalese Sherpas and 8 Pakistani high-altitude porters will leave for Ascole. According to the plan, they should arrive at the K2 Base Camp 5 days earlier than the participants, put our most comfortable base camp on K2. And I will go with them - the head of the expedition, Alexander Abramov. By the way, cherries have already ripened in Skardu. Come here!

For the first time in history, a chess tournament for climbers will be held in the spring of 2024 on Mount Everest. According to the organizers, the main part of the tournament will begin at the foot of the mountain (base camp), and its final will be at an altitude of about 8000 meters (South Col camp), without the use of additional oxygen. The prize fund will amount to 14 million rubles (app. 170000 USD), the winner of the competition, in addition to the cash prize, will have the opportunity to celebrate his victory on the summit of Mount Everest.

"This is the first tournament for climbers, which will demonstrate physical endurance and demonstrate the intellectual capabilities of the brain in extreme conditions.  The fourth and most dangerous Everest camp is located at an altitude of 8000 meters, and here the finalists will hold a match without access to additional oxygen. To maintain clarity of thought in intellectual struggle in such conditions, perhaps, will be the main challenge for the finalists of the Everchess tournament," commented the President of the 7 Summits Club, 12 times Everest summiter Alexander Abramov on the specifics of the event.  The initiator of the tournament was the summiter of Everest2023, the head of the company "Security Code" Andrey Golov.

Andrey Golov and Alexander Abramov after Everest summit

Applications for participation in the tournament will start in September 2023, and all participants will be strictly selected for health and climbing experience.

The cost of participation is 7,000,000 rubles.

The prize fund is 14,000,000 rubles.

Sponsor of the project “7 Summits Club" and “International HAC Federation".

Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov flew from Moscow today in the direction of Pakistan. Thus, our historical expedition to K2 began, about which we thought and talked a lot, which we had been preparing for more than one year. We are waiting for heat and cold, heavy roads and trails, the most formidable and ruthless peak. We are waiting for the shooting of the film "High Altitude Gene 2.0. K2" ...

Watch the video from Vnukovo airport:

Yesterday, the participants of the project "Deathzone Freeride" Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin climbed to  the top of Mount Everest and safely descended to Camp 2.  And today, together with their entire team, they flew by helicopter to Kathmandu. This year, all the climbers who have been declared by us and received permits have made successful ascents to the top of Mount Everest!

Congratulations to Alexander Abramov on his twelfth ascent to the highest peak of the planet! And also with the successful leadership of the group with one hundred percent summits!   This time, most of the ascent took place during daylight hours and the filming turned out to be more than usual. Watch and listen…

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

So, today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club flies from BC to Kathmandu. I want to sum up. A difficult expedition. Everyone was sick. Not everyone was able to recover. 6 people at the top. 11 people have already died this season. 100 got frostbite.

Our expedition is the best. Not a single injury. Probably due to the colossal experience of the organization. I have the 12th ascent of Everest. I was even praised for it. We will continue to work. And ahead of K2, where our team of 17 participants is starting in 3 weeks.

Friends, we received a message via satellite that Alexander Abramov's team has climbed Everest!  Alexander Abramov became a 12-time Everest summiter today!

Now there is a descent, so detailed information will be later.

 The president of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The whole team has climbed 8100m. We are going to storm at night. At 22:00 local time (19:15 Moscow time), the team starts to climb the highest mountain on our planet!

 The Assault Team of the 7 Summits Club:

 Alexander Abramov - head of the expedition

Ilya Alyoshkins

Andrey Golov

Kazbek Gulmagomedov

Alla Mishina

Andrey Polyakov.   

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

We are in Camp 2. View of Camp-3 at an altitude of 7100 m, the crest of Mount Everest and the summit of Lhotse.

The second day of good weather, which is promised for at least another week.  And the second day of climbing to the top of Mount Everest. Our group is going up to Camp-3 tomorrow. Everything is according to plan and without haste.

Sergey Bogomolov went down yesterday from Camp 3 to Base Camp. Full of emotions. Alexander Abramov shot a video with him, who had not yet had time to take off his overalls.  Sergey Georgievich climbed to a height of 7100 meters. "It doesn't happen easily", ahead of the continuation of preparations for the summer expedition to K2.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Our vacation is over. Yesterday, the whole team returned to the Everest Base Camp.  The wind was blowing hard. The wind has calmed down today. And today, the Sherpas have posted a route to the top. And already the first climbers set off on their way to the top of Mount Everest. Our team does not want to get into traffic jams on the mountain. According to the forecast, 10 days of good weather are ahead. Therefore, our exit is scheduled for May 15 and according to the plan, the top is on the 18th. While the whole team is in the ranks. We are preparing for a heroic assault.

Guide Alexander Abramov, Lena Abramova, Andrey Selivanov.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

 The little holidays have passed. Several trekking groups passed through our Base Camp. 50 people exactly. Not counting numerous friends and members of the 7 Summits Club. All this time the team was resting down the valley. The wind was at the summit of 50-85 km per hour all the days. Clouds raced across the sky like torn "Crabs".  And now our prolonged rest is coming to an end. The wind has weakened.

From 6 to 12^th of May we warmed up in loggias and ate from the belly. Everyone was able to recover and overcome the cough. The whole team is healthy and ready to go. Now that's it: the last stage of the expedition begins. Climbing the summit of Everest. The plan was approved.

On the 12th we fly to BC.

13th and 14th preparation.

On the 15th, Camp 2. 6400m.

On the 16th, Camp 3. 7100m.

on the 17th, Camp 4 - The South Col 7900.

On the 18th, the Assault on the summit of Mount Everest 8848.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team is resting at the Rivendell Hotel, which is located at an altitude of 3800. We met the Makalu team. They celebrated Igor Smirnov's birthday and the Victory Day May 9. Fry The Potatoes. And we celebrate the release of the book by Luda Korobeshko "The High Altitude Gene 2. A woman's look".

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Yesterday, our team, having completed the 2nd acclimatization rotetion, flew to Namche Bazaar for a rest.  Here, at an altitude of 3600 meters, we have planned to spend 4 nights. Everything that was and will be in Namche will remain in Namche. In the meantime, watch photos and videos from acclimatization and with helicopter flights.

The members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club are on the second, final acclimatization rotation. At this time, the head of the expedition, Alexander Abramov, is at the base camp and supervises the preparatory work for the upcoming assault on the summit of Mount Everest.

Alex Abramov:  Today is the day of preparation for the ascent in the BC of Everest. Food for high-altitude camps. For each day, for each participant, a package with food. The same was considered and planned to supply  oxygen. Tents and everything you need. Tomorrow our team will fly to Namche, where they will spend 4 nights to recover.  On May 10th, return to BC and on the 12th, the start of the ascent.

While we relax.

Team "Masala Tim"

Guide Alex Abramov

Doctor Andrey Selivanov

BC manager Elena Abramova.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team of climbers of the Everest of the 7 Summits Club reached the Second Camp at an altitude of 6400m today as part of the second acclimatization rotation. Plans to spend the night here. Tomorrow the team is expected to go to Camp-3 7100m to complete the acclimatization program. It's snowing now, but good weather is expected tomorrow.

Then the team is scheduled to descend to Namche Bazaar for a rest and prepare for the final climb to the top of the world, Mount Everest. The ascent is planned for the period from May 17 to May 25.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Today, on May 2, the team is quietly preparing for a new exit. Tomorrow at 3 am we will start for camp-1 6100m. The plan is to climb to Camp 3 at 7100m in 3 days and then descend to Base Camp on May 6th.  On May 7th, the team will fly to Namche Bazaar for a vacation.  And the ascent is scheduled for May 12-13.  Today, the Cats team, led by Artem Rostovtsev, came to visit. Cats turned out to be models, so we temporarily postponed our men's classes. A game of chess and cards. It's a pity, but at 2 a.m. we leave the Base Camp. The weather is good.

Today our friends, Everest climbers Igor Demyanenko and Jamila Murtayzina also came. It was a good meeting. Our Base Camp is turning into a Noah's Ark. Not a day without new guests.  Another good news. Sergey Bogomolov was discharged from the Hospital. And he's flying to Lukla tomorrow.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Hello everyone!  Our team moved from Camp 1 (6100m) to Camp 2 (6400m). Everyone feels good. The camp is comfortable. Everest looms right over us. The weather is brilliant today. Tomorrow we will descend to the base camp. And one participant of our team goes through the program "Touching Everest". This is Elina Lazarevskaya.  Tomorrow she goes out with a sherpa and with extra oxygen to Camp 3 (7100 m), touches it and happily flies by helicopter to Kathmandu and home. And on May 2, the "Cats" team comes to us with a guide Artem Rostovtsev.