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Antarctic Season for the 7 Summits Club is successfully ended. Photos

South Pole. Dmitry Ermakov sent a message and photos already from Punta Arenas. He and his groupe came back from Antarctica. Dragan Jovovich from Serbia, the Russians Dmitry Kuznetsov and Vladimir Pankratenko with Dmitry successfully completed the Last ... read more

Dmitry Ermakov sent a message and photos already from Punta Arenas. He and his groupe came back from Antarctica. Dragan Jovovich from Serbia, the Russians Dmitry Kuznetsov and Vladimir Pankratenko with Dmitry successfully completed the Last Degree program. Before that, Dmitry Ermakov went up on Mount Vinson with a large group of 7 Summits Club. Total for season 7 Summits Club had two groups on the Vinson and two in the Last Degree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BMC about Hans Kammerlander and second highest summits

Vinson. Italian Hans Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents. In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the ... read more

Italian Hans Kammerlander becoming the first to climb all the second highest summits on each of the continents.

In early January Kammerlander made only the fifth ascent of Tyree (4,852m) in the Sentinel Range of Antarctica, climbing in the company of Austrians Robert Miller and Christian Stangl.

Whilst it's not clear when or where the original idea of Second Seven Summits was muted, Jon Kraukauer, discussing the Seven Summits fascination in his best seller, Into Thin Air, notes that climbing the second highest peaks would provide a much greater challenge.

Kammerlander climbed K2 in 2001 but only decided to focus on the Second Seven Summits in 2009. That year he climbed Ojas del Salado in Chile (6,893m) and Kenya (5,199m). In 2010 came 5,959m Logan in the Canadian Yukon and Dych Tau (5,204m) in Russia. In 2011 it was the turn of Puncak Trikora (4,730m), the second highest peak in Australasia.

The second highest in Australasia/Oceania still seems to be a question of debate. Nggu Pulu is often quoted as the second highest summit, but it is more a subsidiary top to Carstensz Pyramid than an independent mountain. However, another school of thought suggests Puncak Mandala, a separate peak, has a higher altitude than Trikora.

 

 

Tyree was first climbed in January 1967 by Barry Corbet and John Evans via a committing traverse over Gardiner, during the American expedition that made the first ascent of the continent's highest mountain, Vinson.

The second came in 1989 when Mugs Stump made his now legendary solo ascent of the west face, totally raising the bar in Antarctic mountaineering.

In 1997 French Antoine de Choudens and Antoine Cayrel climbed the east face for the third ascent. This line was repeated not long after by Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe.

While the route Kammerlander and partners took to the summit is currently not known for certain, it is most likely to be via the great ice slope of the east face.

In 2008 and 2009 Stangl, who is also on a quest to complete the Second Seven, had tried Tyree. On the second attempt, via the French Route on the east face, he was within shouting distance of the summit when a single falling rock broke his partner's arm, causing the pair to bail.

Kammerlander has climbed 13 of the 8,000ers, but is quoted as saying he has no intention of returning to Manaslu, in order to complete the collection, because he lost friends there early in his climbing career.

Stangl's aim is now to climb the Triple Seven Summits: the first, second and third highest mountains on each continent.

 

http://thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=5496

 

 

 

Victor’s group returned with a victory

Vinson. Everything went fine and finished fine. The Group of Victor Bobok in full force arrived from Antarctica to Punta Arenas on the day before the plan. On January 12, in the morning Sasha Abramov and Luda Korobeshko met them at the airport and ... read more

Everything went fine and finished fine. The Group of Victor Bobok in full force arrived from Antarctica to Punta Arenas on the day before the plan. On January 12, in the morning Sasha Abramov and Luda Korobeshko met them at the airport and taken to the hotel. Then we all noted the successful ascent of Vinson Massif by a friendly dinner at the bar of Magellan. Igor Cherkashin already flew home. Others members fly today. Sergei Dudko and Dmitry Krasnov, early in the morning flew to Rio de Janeiro. Victor Bobok will fly to Mendoza, to work with a new group on Aconcagua.

Special thanks to Jamila, for culinary pleasing during the trip !

Our team: Alexander Viktorov, Igor Demyanenko, Sergei Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Jamila Murtazin, Igor Cherkashin. Three of our Chinese friend, who judging by the pictures quite fit into the group: Ko Kan Fai, Liu Wai Ming Haston, Tsang Chi Sing John.

 

 

 

 

 

 

News from Antarctica

South Pole. This is Alex Abramov from Punta Arenas. We have a very important message. Victor Boboc with the entire team successfully climbed the summit of Massif Vinson. That means, all members of the second team, as well as the first one, summited ... read more

This is Alex Abramov from Punta Arenas. We have a very important message. Victor Boboc with the entire team successfully climbed the summit of Massif Vinson. That means, all members of the second team, as well as the first one, summited Vinson Massif. Hooray! Next, Dima Ermakov is on the Union Glacier. Tomorrow his team should begin their journey Last Degree. In parallel, seven international teams will go. This will be a beautiful international campaign to the South Pole. I and Lyuda Korobeshko with a team of Russian IL-76 pilots celebrate Russian Christmas. Bye all!

The group is blocked by bad weather. Victor Bobok from Vinson

Vinson. Bobok phones from Antarctica. We are all fine, we're sitting in the middle camp. Yesterday we went, have left food and equipment to the assault camp. Weather worsens. The forecast is bad, we'll sit for 2 days, most likely in the Middle ... read more

Bobok phones from Antarctica. We are all fine, we're sitting in the middle camp. Yesterday we went, have left food and equipment to the assault camp. Weather worsens. The forecast is bad, we'll sit for 2 days, most likely in the Middle Camp. Drink tea ... total lack of visibility. There is no sun, so cold.We are warming ourselves, as we can. All alcohol is off. Now there is only tea ...

 

 

 

New Year under the Vinson massif

Vinson. Victor Boboc phones from  Antarctica. December 31, a group of 7 Summits Club went on acclimatization outing and returned to the Vinson Massif base camp. Now they are ... read more

Victor Boboc phones from  Antarctica. December 31, a group of 7 Summits Club went on acclimatization outing and returned to the Vinson Massif base camp. Now they are preparing for the New Year Eve. First, the New Year will be celebrated at the time of Hong Kong. Then at Moscow and at the Chilean-time...

 

1. Ko Kan Fai - Hong Kong

2. Liu Wai Ming Haston - Hong Kong

3.  Alexander  Viktorov

4.  Igor Demjanenko

5.  Sergey Dudko

6.  Dmitry Krasnov

7.  Dzhamilja Murtazina

8.  Igor Tcherkashin

Guide 1 - Bobok Victor

Guide 2 - Tsang Chi Sing John - Hong Kong

Jordan Romero made the Seventh Summit

Vinson. A 15-year-old American has become the youngest person to climb the highest mountains on each of the seven continents, completing the feat by summiting Antarctica's Mount Vinson over the weekend. Jordan Romero, who last year at age 13 became ... read more

A 15-year-old American has become the youngest person to climb the highest mountains on each of the seven continents, completing the feat by summiting Antarctica's Mount Vinson over the weekend.

Jordan Romero, who last year at age 13 became the youngest person to climb the world's tallest peak Mt. Everest, was descending to base camp Sunday after reaching the summit of Vinson Massif with a team that included his father and his stepmother, according to his team's website.

 "We're at the roof of Antarctica," a member of Team Jordan said in a webcast from near the 16,067-foot (4,897-meter) peak on a frigid but "legendary day."

Romero beat the record previously held by Britain's George Atkinson, who in May completed the seven ascents at age 16.

 Romero has been hooked on climbing from an early age. When he was just 10, he become the youngest person to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest peak at 19,341 feet (5,895 meters).

Before his 11th birthday, he had another world record under his belt, summiting Europe's Mt. Elbrus, in Russia's Caucasus mountains in July 2007.

Five months later, it was the 22,841-foot (6,962-foot) Mt. Aconcagua in Argentina, followed by Alaska's Mt. McKinley at 20,320 feet (6,194 meters).

In September 2009 at age 11, he climbed Indonesia's Carstensz Pyramid, at 16,023 feet (6,194 meters) the tallest island peak in the world, breaking another record.

Eight months later in May 2010, he climbed Everest, and ever since he and his team had been preparing for his Antarctic expedition.

"Looking forward to tomorrow, and we'll make you guys proud and promise we'll come back home safe and sound," Romero said in a webcast Saturday, hours before he began the final ascent to Mt. Vinson's summit.

The team had intended to reach the top on Christmas Day, but ideal weather and good progress allowed them to summit a day ahead of schedule.

Our first group climbed Mount Vinson

Vinson. Our guides Dima Ermakov and Viñtor Bobok have send a short message from the slopes of Mount Vinson. Today their group had climbed the top of the tallest summit of Antarctica. At the top there were five members and two guides. Members: ... read more

Our guides Dima Ermakov and Viñtor Bobok have send a short message from the slopes of Mount Vinson. Today their group had climbed the top of the tallest summit of Antarctica. At the top there were five members and two guides. Members: Konstantin Beirit, Pavel Kostrikin, Ivan Rudenko (Russia), Yury Lukjanov – (father and daughter from Kazakhstan).

 

Start at Vinson

Vinson. Seven Summits Club, hello! Dmitry Ermakov and Victor Boboc from under the Vinson massif. Yesterday, we arrived safely at the Vinson base camp ... and now we are making comfort accommodation here. Today we are going to go to the first ... read more

Seven Summits Club, hello! Dmitry Ermakov and Victor Boboc from under the Vinson massif. Yesterday, we arrived safely at the Vinson base camp ... and now we are making comfort accommodation here. Today we are going to go to the first outing…

….

I Vinson (16-29 Dec). Mount Vinson. The tallest of Antarctica.

1 Beirit Konstantin

2 Kostrikin Pavel

3 Lukjanov Yury - Kazakhstan

4 Lukjanova Nadezhda - Kazakhstan

5 Rudenko Ivan

The guide 1 - Bobok Victor

The guide 2 - Ermakov Dmitry

 

The European championship will start on the Everest

Vinson. Sergey Kovalev is the leader of climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine). In the big interview he declared the nearest plans. He intends to continue a program «Coal of Donbass at the highest summits of the world». Last year Sergey has ... read more

Sergey Kovalev is the leader of climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine). In the big interview he declared the nearest plans. He intends to continue a program «Coal of Donbass at the highest summits of the world». Last year Sergey has finished the program of 7 Summits. In this autumn, he was a leader of expedition on Pumori and Ama-Dablam. Now Kovalev dreams to carry out a new expedition on Everest in the spring of 2012. The idea consists in the following: the representatives of four cities of Ukraine in whom European championship matches on football will take place, have together climb the tallest peak of the world. They should make the first kick on a ball at the top of Mount Everest. Cities: Kiev, Kharkov, Donetsk and Lvov. Now the main business is to get an interest of sponsors, and qualified climbers are in Ukraine.

 

 

The plan for a season in Antarctica

South Pole. Yesterday Alexander Abramov and Dmitry Ermakov have taken off for the South America for preparation of the main part of the Antarctic season. The large quantity of luggage has demanded big efforts to push in the plane. The season program ... read more

Yesterday Alexander Abramov and Dmitry Ermakov have taken off for the South America for preparation of the main part of the Antarctic season. The large quantity of luggage has demanded big efforts to push in the plane. The season program will be strained, and in Antarctica there is no place to buy there. So work, nerves, time – all should be spent, including in advance. Lyudmila Korobeshko will take off for Chile on Monday. So for time, this South American country becomes the main site of our Club.

During change in Madrid the friendly meeting with the Spanish climbers has occurred

 

 

The schedule of groups for the Antarctic summer

I Last Degree (16-29 Dec). The South Pole. Last degree.

1 Viktorov Alexander

2 Kuzmin George

The guide - Korobeshko Lyudmila

 

I Vinson (16-29 Dec). Mount Vinson. The tallest of Antarctica.

1 Beirit Konstantin

2 Kostrikin Pavel

3 Lukjanov Yury - Kazakhstan

4 Lukjanova Nadezhda - Kazakhstan

5 Rudenko Ivan

The guide 1 - Bobok Victor

The guide 2 - Ermakov Dmitry

 

III Vinson (29 Dec-12 JAN).

1 Ko Kan Fai - Hong Kong

2 Liu Wai Ming Haston - Hong Kong

3 Viktorov Alexander

4 Demjanenko Igor

5 Dudko Sergey

6 Krasnov Dmitry

7 Murtazina Dzhamilja

8 Tcherkashin Igor

The guide 1 - Bobok Victor

The guide 2 - Tsang Chi Sing John - Hong Kong

 

IV Last Degree (05-19 JAN) the South Pole. Last degree

1 Jovovic Dragan - Serbia

2 Kuznetsov Dmitry

3 Pankratenko Vladimir

The guide - Ermakov Dmitry

Seven Summits. New “members of the club” and new challengers

Vinson.   The first in Denmark ... Stina Glavind became the first woman in Denmark, which managed to complete the program "Seven Summits". July 14, 2011 she went to the finishing summit of the list - Carstensz Pyramid. She is 36 years old, ... read more

 

The first in Denmark ... Stina Glavind became the first woman in Denmark, which managed to complete the program "Seven Summits". July 14, 2011 she went to the finishing summit of the list - Carstensz Pyramid. She is 36 years old, grew up and lives on the island of Bornholm, far enough away from the capital. Stina is a manager of Carlsberg, which has helped her in raising funds for trips.

On May 22, 2010. Mount Everest. "It was one of the greatest experiences of my life..."

 

 

"The purpose of life, you define yourself. I'm happy to have found a hobby, and I managed to get away from everyday life, from coffee with cream and Dancing with the Stars on TV."

 

 

Shawn Dawson: Seven Summits - the seven charitable projects

Shawn Dawson - a successful Canadian businessman. He walked up the steps a business career: starting with restaurants, then retail and real estate, then in the media business. Once, friends invited him to go with them on Mount Kilimanjaro. Traveling to Africa has changed the priorities in life of Canadian. He became closely acquainted with the organization Habitat for Humanity, a charitable group engaged in construction in poor African countries. The idea was born - to climb seven summits for charity. And the seven charitable projects add on to the project climbs. Dawson has created a special fund called the Dream Mountains, to implement their plans.

 

http://www.dreammountains.com/

Seven Summits program is completed and a positive balance amounted to $ 142.114. This amount has gone to seven charitable projects. But the work continues. Dawson gathers a group of track to the foot of Mount Everest, maybe he will come up with something more interesting.

Dawson completed the program climbing Carstensz, which had reached on May 4, 2011. Finnish climber Atte Miettinen was with his team, one of those who are currently studying Punto Arenas waiting for a flight to Antactica.

   

 

For the whole Finland

In fact, Veikka Gustafsson (b. 01/14/1968) represents the whole Finnish climbing. A professional mountain climber, he achieved a lot: 14 eight-thousanders without artificial oxygen, and without permanent partners. Frankly, I do not know what he miss and had climb for the seven summits yet. At least he was at Vinson before..

 

Veikka – the high-class climber

 

It is not surprising that Atte Miettinen invited Veikka to joint climbs on top of missing the "seven". Namely: Vinson, Aconcagua, McKinley and Mount Everest.

Atte lives for many years in Dubai with his wife an Englishwoman. His business projects related to information technology, and thus transcend political and geographical boundaries. Miettinen also started with two trips to Mount Kilimanjaro. Then there was Elbrus, attempt to Aconcagua and this year - Carstensz. Despite a decent amount for their own accounts, Atte had found for his project quite good sponsors. Red Bull is among the sponsors - http://sevensummits.fi/

 

To Celebrate the New Year in Antarctica!!! There are 3 places in Antarctica to the South Pole, and Massif Vinson.

South Pole. Programs: The ascent of Massif Vinson - the highest peak of AntarcticaExpedition to the South Pole. "The last degree" (Ski tour 111êì). Antarctica Hello friends! We still have the last 3 places in Antarctica to the South Pole, and ... read more

Programs:

The ascent of Massif Vinson - the highest peak of Antarctica
Expedition to the South Pole. "The last degree" (Ski tour 111êì). Antarctica

Hello friends!

We still have the last 3 places in Antarctica to the South Pole, and Vinson Massif.
Vinson Massif - check in from December 26 to January 12.
The South Pole - check in from 2 to 19 January.
On all other dates groups have already been formed and there are no places!

Now we have 2 groups of "the Last degree" at the South Pole:
From 13 to 29 December (full)
and from 2 to 19 January (there are 3 places)

2 groups on the Vinson Massif:
From 13 to 29 December (full)
From December 26 to January 12(there are 2 places)

Be defined urgently till August, 15th
Opportunity only knocks once!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seven summits of Steve Giesecke

Vinson. There are few things on earth as rare as a truly perfect silence. Steve Giesecke would know. Having summitted the highest peak on each of the world's seven continents - each on the first attempt - Giesecke has been everywhere from the ... read more

There are few things on earth as rare as a truly perfect silence. Steve Giesecke would know.

Having summitted the highest peak on each of the world's seven continents - each on the first attempt - Giesecke has been everywhere from the equatorial jungles of Indonesia, and most recently, to the ice sheets of Antarctica.

The retired Air Force colonel returned from his final climb there only a few weeks ago. It was at Mount Vinson, on the world's most remote continent, where he experienced the most enveloping stillness he's ever known.

"When there's no wind - often there's wind - but when there's no wind, it's the quietest place on Earth," Giesecke said.

He found himself on a continent without a shred of development - no roads, cars, or people outside his group. The ice and snow absorbed any ambient noise around them. Even the voice of the nearest person couldn't travel far.

"You can hear your eyes blink," he said.

Like a lot of contractors at Joint Base Lewis-McChord, Giesecke spends most of his days at a desk. He works for the National Center for Telehealth and Technology, a Department of Defense office working to meet the psychological health and traumatic brain injury needs of the military community by developing and implementing technology solutions.

"I'm working on one of our initiatives that will bring the mental health programs of the DoD and VA closer together through collaboration on new technology assessment and development, in the areas of Web-based resources, social media and mobile applications," Giesecke said.

But in spite of the hours he spends in front of a computer, Giesecke's passion is pushing himself to the limit in some of the world's most inspiring locations. The result is a spectacular list of experiences - and more than a few examples of sheer determination.

Giesecke grew up in the Northwest, where hiking in the region's mountain ranges was almost a given. After college he climbed the Jungfrau in the Swiss Alps, which sparked an interest in climbing. When he joined the Air Force, he made a point of climbing mountains in the western U.S. between assignments.

Then in 1989, while stationed in Alaska, he climbed Denali, also known as Mount McKinley.

At 20,320 feet tall, Denali is the highest peak in North America and experiences some of the most severe weather in the world. In 1989 only 51 percent of climbers summitted the mountain, according to the National Parks Service. Today that number is 55 percent.

Giesecke had what he called "the usual experiences" on Denali. The weather was bad and only three of the people in his party made it to the top. At one point another group's tent was blown loose from the ridge above. Only one of the climbers made it out in time.

"It was very difficult back then," Giesecke said. "It still is very difficult, but back then things were a little bit heavier. You needed to take more time on the mountain to move the heavier equipment up."

About the same time, he read the book "Seven Summits" by Dick Bass, Frank Wells and Rick Ridgeway. Though at the time Giesecke thought the task out of reach for himself, the story of Bass and Wells, the first two men to successfully summit all seven peaks, would stick with him for years.

SETTING THE GOAL

When he retired from the Air Force a decade ago, Giesecke moved back to the Pacific Northwest, joined The Mountaineers club and started taking climbing classes. He continued climbing in the area, including summitting Mount Rainier multiple times. But Giesecke wanted a challenge that was bigger than he was. He wanted to know exactly how far he could go.

"I was in peak condition. I knew that if I was ever even going to have a shot at climbing the seven summits, any more of the seven summits, I knew it was then," Giesecke said.

In 2007 he signed up for a trip to Aconcagua on the Argentinean-Chilean border. The 22,841-foot peak is the highest outside of Asia. Giesecke told himself that if he made it to the top without any significant problems he would go straight to Nepal to climb Mount Everest. And in March of 2007 - after a U.S. pit stop just long enough to renew his passport - that's exactly what he did.

According to friend and fellow climber Gary Talcott, who grew up with Giesecke in Olympia, this level of resolve isn't out of the norm.

"He is very ambitious, goal oriented and determined to summit," Talcott said via e-mail, recalling a time when Giesecke helped him lead a group of climbers down from Mount Hood in whiteout conditions.

"It's fun to hear about his latest plans or last adventure," Talcott said. "I can just see the wheels turning."

The Everest trip took him two months.

Mount Everest is the tallest mountain above sea level in the world. A 1999 survey sponsored by the National Geographic Society puts the mountain at 29,035 feet tall, so high that its peak reaches into the lower limits of the jet stream. Sustained winds at the top can exceed 100 miles per hour. In July, the warmest month on the mountain, the average daytime temperature at the summit is -2 F. In January, the coldest month, the average is -33 F but can drop as low as -76 F.

Conditions are, in a word, extreme. Giesecke's experience was nothing less.

Among the final hurdles before reaching Everest's summit is the Cornice Traverse, a 400-foot knife-edged ridge leading to the Hillary Step. Teetering too far to the left would send a climber down 8,000 feet along the Southwest Face. A misstep to the right would result in plummeting 10,000 feet down the Kangshung Face.

It was here that the snow beneath Giesecke broke through, sending him sliding downward.

"I only fell about 20 feet, but the air beneath my boots was endless," he said.

Fortunately the anchors held, and he continued toward the top. After tackling the final obstacle, the 40-foot climb up the Hillary Step, Giesecke summited the mountain.

"I went up Everest on May 20, 2007, and that was a fantastic day," he said, "to be on top of the world."

DOWNHILL FROM EVEREST

 

The following year he took on Mount Elbrus (18,510 feet tall) on the border between Russia and Georgia. After that he went straight to Mount Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet tall) in Tanzania, leaving the area only two days before Russia's invasion of Georgia in the summer of 2008.

His next challenge was Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia. Because the highest point on the continent of Australia is little more than a hike, some climbers take on the 16,500-foot peak to check Oceania off their lists.

While the climb itself includes a 2,000 foot wall climb topped by a Tyrolean traverse-a gap of air climbers cross on a rope suspended between two high points-getting there is a challenge all its own. Even reaching base camp requires a two-week trek through the jungle, days away from civilization.

According to Giesecke, it's the toughest trail he's ever been on.

"The face climb itself was actually fun," he said. "The jungle approach was a once in a lifetime thing. I wouldn't do that again."

And so, there was only one left. Mount Vinson, Antarctica's tallest peak, stands at 16,050 feet tall. But to get to it, Giesecke would have to wait.

In January he traveled to Punta Arenas, Chile. From there he planned to fly to Antarctica - but things were not as simple as he had hoped. A strike over rising fuel prices shut down the area, leaving Giesecke cut off from the last of the seven summits.

"It's challenging to accept things beyond my control," he said.

For him, waiting is the hardest part about mountain climbing - knowing that the goal is out there ahead of you, but not being able to reach out and grab it.

Giesecke was stranded in Patagonia for two weeks waiting for the strike to end. Not everyone in the group was as patient or invested. Some went home before so much as setting foot on Antarctica.

Not Giesecke.

"I'd gone all the way down to the end of South America to complete this trip," he said. "That's what I intended to do and that's what I did."

On Jan. 27, he made it to the top, finishing a journey he started in 1989.

"It's still sinking in," Giesecke said. "When I finished I came back home and I got out the book 'Seven Summits' and looked at it again."

Like explorers before him, Giesecke has been asked time and again why he does it. And really, there are countless reasons - the camaraderie of accomplishing great things with other people, the physical challenge, George Mallory's classic "Because it's there."

But for Giesecke, perhaps what it really comes down to the liberating challenge.

"I think when you're climbing it's one of the ultimate expressions of freedom," he said.

There aren't many places left with so few restraints, he said. But when he's pushing himself toward the summit of some impossibly high mountain, the only thing holding him back is how high he can climb.

 

By Marisa Petrich (Northwest Guardian)

http://www.army.mil/-news/2011/02/24/52401-retired-officer-reaches-goal-of-climbing-worlds-7-highest-peaks/

 

 

 

Fedor Konyukhov will go with us to the foot of Mount Everest

South Pole.  Alexander Abramov visited Fedor Konyukhov, who was the first Russian climbed Seven Summits and reached two Poles. They have discussed various travel ideas, tell each other about their adventures and climbs, about Antarctica and Mount ... read more

 Alexander Abramov visited Fedor Konyukhov, who was the first Russian climbed Seven Summits and reached two Poles. They have discussed various travel ideas, tell each other about their adventures and climbs, about Antarctica and Mount Everest. Alex was trying to learn more about the routes Konyukhov on polar region, first of all - Greenland.. But most importantly, they agreed that Fedor will organize a trekking party to the foot of Everest with an expedition 7 Summits Club.

We can say that this journey can be seen as part of the project by Fyodor Konyukhov to establish in Moscow, a center of travel uder protection of Orthodox Church. As we know, the greatest Russian traveler of modern time was ordained an Orthodox priest. However, he intends to continue his adventure and hard travel. In March Fedor Konyukhov plans a pilgrimage to Ethiopia. This will be an expedition to the holy places of this country, and to move mainly on camels.

 

Fedor Konyukhov was born on December 12, 1951, on the coast of the Sea of Azov (part of the Black Sea). His father is a descendant of fishermen whose family came from Arkhangelsk Province and his mother is a native of Bessarabia.

Fedor graduated from Odessa Navigation College and Leningrad Arctic College. He studied in the Theological Seminary and in the Arts College in Bobruisk (Byelorussia).

Since his childhood, Fedor Konyukhov has been striving for traveling and discovering the entire diversity of the world. He accomplished his first expedition at the age of fifteen having crossed the Sea of Azov on a fishing rowing boat.

By the age of fifty he has made more than forty unique trips and climbs expressing his vision of the world in paintings and books.

In 1983, Fedor Konyukhov was admitted to the Union of Artists of the USSR (he was the youngest at that moment). Since 1996, a member of the Moscow Union of Artists, Graphic Arts section; since 2001, a member of the Sculpture section in the Moscow Union of Artists.

The laureate of the Gold Medal of the Russian Arts Academy, Honorary Academician of the Russian Arts Academy, author of more than 3,000 paintings. He participated in a number of Russian and international exhibitions.

A member of the Union of Journalists of the Russian Federation. A member of the Union of Writers of the Russian Federation. Author of nine books.

Yacht Captain. He made four circumnavigations and crossed the Atlantics fourteen times, including one time on a rowing boat. Honored Master of Sports. Fedor was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples of the USSR and the UNEP Prize "GLOBAL 500" for his contribution to the environmental protection. He is the holder of the UNESCO Prize “For Fair Play”.

First and so far the only person in the world to have reached the five extreme Poles of the planet:

North Geographical Pole (3 times)

South Geographical Pole

Pole of considerable inaccessibility in the Arctic Ocean

 

     

 

   

 

Art-work of Fedor

Alexander Abramov has returned home, that is, to our office

South Pole. A high-day in the 7 Summits Club. Our leader Alexander Abramov returned from Antarctica. Now he is going through a transitional period to get used to germs, darkness, fuss, heavy traffic etc. However, a couple of days, he will be working at ... read more

A high-day in the 7 Summits Club. Our leader Alexander Abramov returned from Antarctica. Now he is going through a transitional period to get used to germs, darkness, fuss, heavy traffic etc. However, a couple of days, he will be working at full capacity. Expedition on Everest will start soon, it needs a lot of work. By the way, you still have a good opportunity to join our expedition. Details here >>>>>>>

 

 

 

And here are some stories from Antarctica. Photos from Mt. Sidley are posted here >>>>>>>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

News from our teams in South America

Vinson. Alexander Abramov and his friends left the Ice Continent. Tomorrow we hope to see our president in Moscow. Today, the entire group of Luba Ivanova will meet in the town of Copiapo. And they immediately, all together (7 people), will go ... read more

Alexander Abramov and his friends left the Ice Continent. Tomorrow we hope to see our president in Moscow. Today, the entire group of Luba Ivanova will meet in the town of Copiapo. And they immediately, all together (7 people), will go through the Atacama desert landscapes to the foot of the highest volcano in the world, Ojos del Salado. The first camp will be located in the town of Vallecito, at an altitude of 3000 meters.

Victor Bobok and his group has successfully finished the acclimatization outing at Nido de Condores. They went to rest in the Plaza de Mulas. All three members and a guide feel fine. The weather is still bad, strong winds are blowing at an high altitude.

Coco Popescu and her dad Ovidy should go after Antarctica to Ojos. For another course of acclimatization before Everest. A Romanian television, meanwhile, issued a news clip about the fantastic achievements of girls, called the first person who rose to seven of the highest volcanoes in the seven continents. In the early glimpses of footage we could see a view from the ascent on the Mount of Sidley.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baFUHNvJUjs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

A speed climb of Mount Vinson

Vinson. Short information came from Maxim Bogatyrev. On the slopes of the highest peak in Antarctica climbers 7 Summits Club, as well as on the Sidley, made a speed ascent. For only 50 hours after arrival at base camp, Mikhail Turovsky, Vadim ... read more

Short information came from Maxim Bogatyrev. On the slopes of the highest peak in Antarctica climbers 7 Summits Club, as well as on the Sidley, made a speed ascent. For only 50 hours after arrival at base camp, Mikhail Turovsky, Vadim Nadvodnyuk and their guide Max Bogatyrev reached the summit of Mount Vinson. Nikolay Stepanenko decided not to go to the mountain and stayed in the camp Low Camp. Our climbers rush home, and this was due a speed of ascent. But all depends now on the skies, that is, on the weather and an arrival of IL-76 from Punta Arenas.

 

 

 

Our programs in Antarctica resumed, a climb of Mount Sidley begins!

Vinson. At last, January 21 IL-76 aircraft flew from the Chilean city of Punta Arenas to Antarctica to the base Union Glacier, where a group of 70 people waited for him for very long time. Alex Abramov – from 5th of January, After the strike ... read more

At last, January 21 IL-76 aircraft flew from the Chilean city of Punta Arenas to Antarctica to the base Union Glacier, where a group of 70 people waited for him for very long time. Alex Abramov – from 5th of January, After the strike and damage of aircraft, flight was delayed because of bad weather. Not all could waited for this day. Under the plan the aircraft should fly on the Ice Continent on January 10. Many were forced to leave. Our climbers Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Nikolai Stepanenko and Mikhail Turovsky waited for this day, and now they start climbing program on Mount Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica. They will climb it under the leadership of Maxim Bogatyrev, who guarded the base camp from January, 5! But most important news: our climb on the highest volcano of the continent - Mount Sidley began. A few hours after arrival Ilyushin, Twin Otter was launched in the direction of this remote volcano. The group consist of Alex Abramov, Crina (Coco) Popescu and Mario Trimeri, as well as representatives of ALE, Mike Sharp and guide Scott Woolams. The ascent began immediately upon landing the aircraft. Mountaineers put on skis and headed towards the summit. According to Alex information, they should rise to a height of 2 kilometers with travel a distance of 12 kilometers.

Well, good luck to all !

Mount Sidley (4181 m) – the highest point of the Mary Bird Land, in very rarely visited area. It is officially recognized as the highest volcano of Antarctica, one of the “Seven volcanos of the World”. Mt.Sidley - a large mountain, with a huge caldera, which forms a wall height of 1200 meters, the opposite slopes of the mountains are flat and could easily be reached on skis. A layer of ice in the area reaches is a three-kilometer thick. There is no actual volcanic activity in the region, according to scientists last eruption occurred about 4.7 million years ago.

 

 

 

 

Everest 2011: when people want more than just reach the top

Vinson. There is a group of climbers, that every year come to Everest planning to make something amazing. Englishman David Tait intends to make two climb to the summits above eight thousand meters. First, he plans to climb a new route on Lhotse, ... read more

There is a group of climbers, that every year come to Everest planning to make something amazing. Englishman David Tait intends to make two climb to the summits above eight thousand meters. First, he plans to climb a new route on Lhotse, then on Mount Everest without artificial oxygen. 69-year-old American Bill Burke with Mexican David Liano intends to make two ascents of Everest during the spring season, from two different sides. The first – by the northern route from Tibet and the second - from the south, from Nepal. 46-year-old Englishman Paul Parkinson has announced his intention to climb the western ridge of Everest solo, without oxygen and in the clothing of twenties of the last century.

George Atkinson from England plans to become the youngest conqueror of the Seven Summits, his ascent of Everest, he would commit to 29th May, when he turns 17 years old. However, he has a rival. This Romanian girl Crina Popescu, who is now in Antarctica with the 7 Summits Club. She turns 17 years until December 2011. She has currently six summits of the Seven Summits project, missing just Everest. And she plans it also for spring 2011.

 

David Tait with his partner Phurba

Bill Burke from California

 

David Liano

In our expedition led by Alex Abramov, also we will have climbers who plan to go not by the classic ways. Gleb Sokolov and Vitaly Gorelik from Siberia, plan to open a new route on the East Face of Everest, to the right of the American routes. The second idea is to make traverse of Nothern Peak of Everest to the Main Summit.

 

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BBC

 

Surrey teenager George Atkinson aims to conquer Everest George Atkinson has recently returned from climbing Mount Vinson in Antarctica

Sixteen-year-old George Atkinson from Surbiton is aiming to become the youngest person to climb the Seven Summits - the highest mountain on every continent.

He has just returned home from Antarctica and scaling Mount Vinson, his sixth successful climb.

He got the mountaineering bug from his father Mark, and by the age of 7 he had climbed the three highest peaks in Scotland, England and Wales: Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdonia.

George told BBC Surrey: "My father really got me into climbing. When I was six we climbed Slieve Donard, the highest mountain in Northern Ireland.

"We did that because we needed to find something we needed to do together. I really loved it."

He started off his challenge when he climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Kenya at the age of 11 in 2005, before scaling Europe's highest peak, Russia's Mount Elbrus, in 2007.

He then tackled Puncak Jaya, also known as Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia in 2008, followed by the South American peak Aconcagua later in the same year.

"There are a number of things that drive me. I do enjoy any mountain and I feel there is an amazing sense of freedom in any mountain range.

"I like a good challenge in life and the Seven Summits is something which gives me that.

"I find these mountains to be a good adventure by going off to exotic places and it's a good chance to travel the world."

George ticked off his fifth peak when he climbed Mount McKinley (known as Denali) in North America.

"Denali has been the toughest so far. It was full-on mountain climbing," he said.

"You land on a glacier and spend 18 days living in the snow pulling everything you need for the expedition with you, and you have to bring it back down with you.

 George on top of Denali last year

"It was harder physically and the weather was more extreme."

George is now preparing for his final climb. He will tackle Mount Everest in Nepal, which at 8,850 metres is the highest mountain in the world.

He aims to climb Everest in April or May this year, and if he is succeeds in his ascent before his 17th birthday on May 29, he will become the first person do climb every summit in the world before the age of 17.

"I have a training regime which I'm trying to keep up to. I go running twice a week to increase my lung capacity and go to the gym three times a week.

"It would mean an awful lot to get to the top of Everest. I'm not doing it just to get the record.

"I find it a good challenge. If I got the record it would be the cherry on top and finish it off well."