May, 15. 2007 ÀÂÑ Camp, Everest from the North, 6400ì.
Alex Abramov: Today May, 15. A fourth day we are in ÀÂÑ waiting for a start of climb upward. 12-th and May, 13-th a lot of climbers has left ÀÂÑ for an ascent. Today the first groups reached the top. Since morning, even to the naked eye, it was possible to see on a snow triangle under the top tens people going upwards and downwards. On hearings, today from 150 up to 200 person has left on storm. At noon we could see, that under the summit some rescue operation have begun. It it is no wonder when it is so many climbers. By the way, the younger sister of our sirdar Mingma Gelu has summited Everest. She was the youngest person in 15 years climbed Everest in 2003. According Mingma, she has reached the summit one of the first, at 5 a.m. climbing alone. And she saw two climbers which, having reached the top from the North, have begun descent to the South.
We are waiting, when this first wave will subside. Now there are problems with free places on 8300 meters. Probably, tomorrow, our first group will leave for camp of 7000 m and for the further ascent. And next day the second group will start. Under the plan the first group will leave for the summit bid from the camp for 8300 m on May 19, and the second group - on May, 20. Under the forecast that is available here, on May 19 and 20 the wind will decrease and it should be clear.
The first group:
- Hannah Shields
- Curt Myers
- Dirk Feige
- Israfil Ashurly
- Maxim Shakirov
- Sergey Kofanov (guide)
- Sergey Larin (guide)
And also 6 Sherpas.
The second group:
- Bill Tyler
- Sergey Batura
- Andrey Ivanov
- Sergey Dashkevich
- Lyudmila Korobeshko
- Alexander Abramov (guide and expedition leader)
- Alexander Bichenko (guide)
And 6 Sherpas.
Yesterday we have risen up to a stock of equipment, after dinner we have checked up masks, a reducer, have fulfilled tactics of movement in groups and the charge of oxygen on mountain. Tomorrow - up in a way. We shall try to send you information during the climb.
Today our first team led by Sergey Kofanov and Sergey Larin has gone on an ascent. Also with them 5 person: Maxim Shakirov, Israfil Ashurly, Hannah Shields, Curt Myers, Dirk Feige from Germany. Also with them 6 Sherpas, led by Mingma Gelu, 5-times Everest summiter. Today the first team has risen on North Col. Two tents from eight are broken by a bad weather. There is still enough places, we have also a kitchen and a dining tents, and also a toilet. Previous climbers which has passed already about 200 person, have stolen only 2 oxygen cylinders. From 18 cylinders which laid on the Saddle, now remained only 16. It is not very terrible yet, we have some stock of oxygen. But it will be really bad, if we shall miss some oxygen in high camps on 7700 and 8300 meters.
The second team led by Alexander Abramov and Alexander Bichenko, it is five person Andrey Ivanov, Sergey Batura, Sergey Dashkevich, Bill Tyler and Lyudmila Korobeshko. A strong team from six Sherpas goes with us, led by Pemba which works with us three seasons, (he is 6 times Everest summiter) . The second group leaves tomorrow in the morning, May 17-th.
The Weather should be quite good.
May, 15 and May, 16 a plenty of people has climbed Everest. Probably, more than hundred. From different expedition as Summitclimb and Kari Kobler and the Indian Military expedition. Also, a plenty of sportsmen which participate in small expeditions. One of the first, Nima Dolma the sister of ours sirdar has summited. First time she has climbed Everest in the age of 15 years in 2003, it is a record for all climbers.
A little bit about sad, two persons was lost for these two days. One - the Japanese, 67 years, he has died at the Second step. And the second is the Czech climber. He was lost today. He has left in the morning on an ascent, then has returned to camp of 8300 m, has felt badly and there has died. The information is informal.. We hope, that at us all will pass well, normally, without any incidents. Our team is strong, we have a good Sherpas. This year, as against the past, each member has an individual Sherpa. And if the last year we used three cylinders of oxygen this year we use six cylinders as the base offer. Communication also works well. In general, all is normal, there would be a good weather, health and good luck.
May, 18. 2007 Camp 7700 m, Everest from the North.
Our first our team will spend a part of night in camp of 8300 meters, it is assault camp. At night they will leave on storm of the summit.
The second team now is in the camp of 7700 meters and tomorrow under the plan should rise in the camp of 8300 meters. There we should meet a going down first team and next night go on an ascent. Everybody feel healthy, all 14 members and 12 Sherpas. One unpleasant moment: in the high camp, four cylinders of oxygen were stolen. But we have six more spare which we now again lift upward.
Such is Everest - people rescue his life due to others.
I think, that tomorrow in the morning, at 9-10 a.m. all will be known. The first team should reach the top to this time. Naturally, that will be only half of way, still it is necessary to go down - on the Everest usually this is most difficult.
May 18th: Bill Tyler: happy at camp 2, 7700m
« on: Today at 16:07:44 »
Hope these are getting annoying but i wanted you all to have as much info as i do during bills summit push! He called me this morning around 630am, they were just getting ready to go to sleep. He made it to a new high for himself! Yippee! 7700 meters! WOW. It took him 4 hours to get there, apparently they climbed through a pretty heavy snow storm...but the weather still looks good for summit day. He climbed on oxygen which helped. When he called me he said he had been off the oxygen for a few hours and was feeling good. He is going to sleep on oxygen and then tommrrow they will head up to camp 3! (they go for summit from camp 3! 8300meters) He said he will call me when he wakes up....(this afternoon for us).
May, 19. 2007 Camp 7700 – 8300 m, Everest from the North.
Morning call (6 a.m. in Moscow):
Now in Tibet is 10 a.m... The First team has gone down from the summit to the Second step. Now they have already passed descent from the Second step, as a key place. Now the team sits on … breakage of connection …. 12 person reached the top and now sit on "mushroom", it is a rock as a mushroom which is at the basis of the Second step. This place where usually rest and leave spare cylinders. On the spot …. breakage of connection …. The weather favours.
The second team will begins an ascent on camp of 8300 m in one hour, on road we should meet the first team.
7 p.m. Tibetan time
Alexander Abramov from slopes of Everest
Now our second team under my leadership is at height of 8300 meters. The first team, today having made a successful ascent on Everest, has already gone down to the North Col. The majority of its members have gone down already to camp ABC, 6500 meters.
Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.
Our second team is now in the camp 8300. We prepare for an ascent. In 5 hours, at 12, the exit is planned. Here there is no opportunity to sleep, we do want to eat, just waiting.
I hope tomorrow we send you new information, on how will be finished our climb.
Wish good luck us good luck !
May, 20. 2007 8300 m, Everest from the North.
Today the second group have summited Everest. We have left at midnight and in 8 a.m. were at the top of Everest. Now it is 11:30, at eleven we all has reached the camp 8300 m. We plan to begin descent in 10-15 minutes. Up to height … we want, as a minimum to pass by camp of 7700 meters, to go down in camp of 7000 meters, or even better in ÀÂÑ. I want to name summiters:
Alexander Bichenko, guide, from Kamchatka;
Alexander Abramov (second time Everest);
Sergey Batura, Nakhodka Russian Fer East and Byelorussia;
Andrey Ivanov, from Kamchatka;
Sergey Dashkevich, from Kamchatka;
Bill Tyler, an American.
My wife, Lyudmila Korobeshko became the first woman from Moscow and third of Russia on Everest. We were the first married couple from Russia at the top of Everest.
Well, we have not gone down yet. While we are in the camp of 8300 m.