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Everest 2014. Start of the expedition. Acclimatization

   

01/09/2020 19:33

 The next expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Everest in 2014 was prepared in normal mode. As always, the leader was Alexander Abramov, and the Sirdar of the Sherpas was Mingma Gelu. Most of the members were from Russia. The company was large and proved to be a successful combination of representatives of different cultures and ages. It was one of the most friendly teams in the history of our expeditions. The expedition consists of 15 climbers and 4 guides.

 A new Everest expedition on the 7 Summits Club is beginning. Alex came to Nepal with a guide of our Tent Peak expedition Vladimir Kotlyar. They were met by the 7 Summits Adventure director Mingma Gelu...

 

 

Our Everest Sherpas Team in the office of 7 Summits Adventure

 

 

Alex with his tennis coach...

 

The new store Red Fox was opened recently in Kathmandu. And Luda Korobeshko represents a major showcase...

 

 

Alex joined his wife (in fact, she is in Moscow) in the showcase window. Right on seen the royal palace...

 

 

 

Alex and Israfil Ashurly in the store Red Fox in Kathmandu...

 

 

Israfil with Firuz Dadashov (right) goes on Shisha Pangma. All purchases made, and nonsymbolic...

 

 

Sherpas expedition 7 Summits Club are preparing to travel to Everest...

 

 

 

Guides 7 Summits Club Sergei Larin and Dmitry Ermakov fly to Nepal...

 

 

Today - there was the official day of start of the 7 Summits Club expedition to Everest. The main part of members of expeditions arrived in Kathmandu today. Everything is going normally. Expedition is large, probably the second or third largest on both sides of Mount Everest, the biggest on the North side.

 

 

The expedition : 15 climbers and 4 guide.

 

 

And numerous group of Sherpas , led by Mingma Gelu.

 

 

Traditional reception at the Russian Embassy . With us Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashov from Azerbaijan who go on Shishapangma.

 

 

 

 

 

14.04 

Our expedition flew to Lhasa. The trek to Mount Everest begins.

 

  

Alex mer his friend Nima Tsering, the Ministr of Sport of Tibet, Everest summiter.

 

 Entertement in Lhasa.

 

15.04.2014

Almost all team at once...

 

Farewell to Lhasa....

 

 

 

Good morning Xigar!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bit windy....

 

20.04

Easter and puja were in one day - an amazing coincidence

Photos from the base camp of the 7 Summits Club expedition...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23.04

Alex: Because I had a bad cough and to prevent bronchitis, I went down for treatment at 1000 m below the base camp. To breathe "oxygen" and sleep in the warmth of the village of Old Tingri (altitude 4200m) .

There I suddenly met a team of Alpine Club of MAI (Moscow Aviation University), which just drives into the base camp Cho Oyu. They are 6 climbers led by Misha Volkov. The meeting was held at the high and even higher than the high level and ended warm parting. They went on their way, I stayed in my den.

Tomorrow I go up to the base camp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today, our team made the first acclimatization rotation to the Middle Camp, at 5800m. There was strong winds. It was very cold at night, but we survived. Everyone could feel like in the drama on Everest hero, 90 years before, attempts to climb Mallory and Irvine ...

 

Lake near Middle Camp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26.04

Hello! It is Alex Abramov from the Everest expedition, the camp ABC, at 6400 meters. There, of course, real fridge yet. Very cold, wind . Today we went here without acclimatization. Since in the South all the expedition were canceled, now we are the great common hope. Because in the north there are about 100 climbers, of which 19 people – from the team of 7 Summits Club. Now we are the biggest expedition on Everest .. .... Descend to the base camp, then we will see. Tomorrow our Sherpas start to set up a camp on the North Col, at 7000 meters ... Goodbye!

 

29.04

Alex Abramov from BC:

Today, 11 members left in Old Tingri to lick their wounds. And remaining in the base camp 8 members staged bath.

Sergei Larin - aka Doc, senior in the group, departing down. He gives instructions on how to behave in a civilized society and how to protect yourself from bird flu ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost all members of the group Everest climbers from 7 Summits Club took part in the competition. The event was held on the system "each with each" to 3 sets. Games stretched for almost the whole day. Chief judge of competitions was Ivona Zadarnovska-Wingert from Poland (by the friendly nickname "merry Pole").

By the end of the competition day by scoring we identified leaders who again played each other for prizes. As a result, Vladislav Lachkarev from Siberian Irkutsk won first place, second place went to Irishman Derek Mahon, and third place – for charming Muscovite Natalia Matusowa.

Evening at the banquet table, the winner was awarded a prize - a bottle of expensive wine. Vladislav first wanted to retire with this bottle in his tent, but decided to split the prize between all team members. As Vlad said during a toast : "Better to be first in the base camp than on Everest a second ! "

Now, the team members are trained for the next competition - are preparing in billiards.

 

 

 

 

02.05

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from a height of 6400 meters, from advanced base camp. Today the first team (8 people) is here . We had breakfast, now it will be held ice classes. We will train ascending on fixed ropes, because tomorrow is our first team goes to the North Col of Everest in order to spend the night at an altitude of 7000 meters. The second team of 11 people spent the night in the Middle camp , and now rises toward the ABC camp. Tonight should all meet here. All feel fine, acclimatization goes according to plan, that is, sufficiently smooth, soft acclimatization.

Tonight snowed 5-10 sm. Everything is covered in white snow, very beautiful.

Tomorrow Sherpa and Lama will hold the opening of the camp ABC – puja. I will be prayer, etc… A general, all is perfect, the weather is nice, the sun shines. Justafternoonsometimes snows . Andsoallgood. Goodbye!

 

04.05.

Yesterday the first half of our team spent a night at 7 thousand on the Saddle (North Col). The second team left there today. A cold wind blows. But we do not lose heart. Everything else, internet modem is broken. So that do not wait images in the coming days. And in general, all is well. The food is good, the people are nice..... Goodbye!

 

05.05.

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from the Advanced base camp at the height of 6400 meters, on Everest. Our second team descended from the North Col. Their overnight on 7000 was quite good. Unfortunately, we were forced to send down Konstantin Umrilov, he fell ill. Expedition proceeds. Tomorrow the first team again is going to go on the North Col. To spend the night and the next day to try to climb on 7500. After that the second team does the same heroic feat and by May 9th all members and guides have to gather in the base camp. On May 9 we plan a traditional party where we invite usually all base camp. Weather is so-so, again brings down snow. Now we had dinner and very quietly dispersed on our tents. All, good-bye!

 

06.05.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov. I 'm on the ice wall near the exit to the North Col. Beautiful weather, no wind, heat. I want to report that all is well with us. The first team is now climbing to the North Col , in order to go on to a height of 7500 meters, with the purpose of acclimatization. The second team is at an altitude of 6400 meters ... However, there are changes. Kostya Umrilov is down to the base camp. Also our “merry Pole” Ivona Zadarnovska is going now down to the base camp, she has a strong cough. And Vladimir Voronin from Ukraine is also descending , he has a fever. But I hope that after week at base camp, they should get better. The remaining members of the expedition all cheerful, happy, and ready to conquer Everest . It will take approximately 15 to 19 th of May, or it can be from 19 to 23 th May. That'stheinformationwehave. Hi!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10.05

Alex Abramov: Yesterday, the 9th of May the 7 Summits Club provided the party of friendship and acclimatization, devoted to the Victory Day.

It passed in a real warm atmosphere!!!

All members of different expeditions come to us. All, who were in the Base camp. We sang, and ate, danced and played together.

Now our team, all 19 people, went down the valley to rest for 2 nights.  Then we will  return to the base camp and proceed to the main part of our climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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