The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Mount Everest in 2016 can be called historic. After all, it was the main shooting of the future film "High-altitude Gene" which will become our monument for many years to come. The ascent was difficult, the conditions were difficult, and it was all that was required to create a decent plot of the film. And the main thing is that we coped, overcame everything and look like real heroes in the film…
From the chronicle of the expedition
The 7 Summits Club Everest Expedition successfully completed the final acclimatization outing
The Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came down to rest in the base camp. Members who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their altitude records!
Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb to an altitude of about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down in the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.
From Press release:
Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.
Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak
List of participants:
With Permit Everest (8848 m)
Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
Irena Kharazova. Russia.
Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
Lay Kwai Chung. China.
Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.
Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)
Denis Provalov. Russia.
Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.
Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)
Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.
Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.
Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.
Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.
The Everest-2016 team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...
11.05.2016. Summit push was unsuccessful, the most nervous time for the expedition began. Patience and effort for the team!
Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our impulse to move sharply upward was stopped by snow and the lack of a fixed ropes. But this, in some sense, the audit showed the willingness of absolutely all the participants for the assault at any moment.
We now have probably the most difficult period of the expedition. First of all psychologically – it is waiting with so many ever-changing introductory. The weather forecast changes daily (or more accurately, no end of snowfall). Normal and good window is not visible.
Information from the Chinese changed about when they will finish fixing ropes to the summit. So there are many reasons to be fidgety. We are encouraged by the fact that no one in our team use it. Everyone understands that patience– it is a part of successful expedition.
Almost all participants had been ill, stopped to wash (to not get sick again;), everything getting thinner and tanned, we got used to each other.
Today we go to the Middle Camp to 5800. While as on the trip, but we'll see ...
Yesterday, almost all members of the team went to the Old Monastery Rongbuk ...
13.05.2016. Alexander Abramov of the tent at the base camp - on the current situation on Everest
Lying in the Base Camp in a sleeping bag it is easier to think than at 7000.
What's happening? Yes, as usual, the Chinese pulled with a fixed ropes. The Weather is snowing. The route has more than 1 m of snow. Wind is weak. It does not blow away the snow.
We rest in the lower camps. Yesterday there was a concert of guitar music and singing. Moveâ for cinema. They took as participants go to bed. What else to move?
At the Base Camp and other camps in the abstract there are several Ukrainian girls, each of whom wants to climb Mount Everest. But they have feeble chance. And girls are slender, gaunt already by waiting. Our Tanya is full of strength and desire!
In general, all are alive and healthy. And ready to storm.
It is kaif - in the morning to lie in a tent and philosophize. ))
17.05.2016. Alexander Abramov from the ABC camp: nothing strange, usually we climbed Everest from 20 to 25 May
The Everest Team of the 7 Summits Club is in the ABC camp at an altitude of 6400 meters. All expedition members are healthy and ready for the ascent. As long as we have to wait. There is nothing strange happens - it happens every year. Chinese (Tibetan) climbers are going to go to complete the processing of the route, the expedition is expected in full combat readiness...
18.05.2016. The first group leaves the North Col. The weather is beautiful, everyone feels great!
Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from the North Col of Everest. The weather is beautiful, our first team moves up. Today, according to the plan we do clinb to a height of 7600 meters. Tomorrow – on 8300, and the day after tomorrow, on May 20, should be a summit bid. In our first team: Alexander Abramov, Lyudmila Korobeshko, Irena Kharazova, Liana Chabdarova, Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz, Roma Reutov and Vladimir Kotlyar. Eight people. Everyone feels fine. The weather is beautiful, the prospects - excellent! Bye!
19.05.2016. Alexander Abramov from the slopes of Everest: The group begins to climb to the assault camp
Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from a height of 7700 meters. Our Sherpas have already left the camp and go up. Our team will start at 11 am up to 8300. Luda Korobeshko and Liana Chabdarova will go .... a little earlier. With them Vladimir Kotlyar will go, our operator. That's the plan. Next message, I hope to send from 8300. Weather wow, a strong wind blows. That is all, Bye!
20.05.2016. Information about summit of Everest of the first group of the 7 Summits Club
Today at 5 a.m. on Nepal Lhakpa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest. This is her 7th summit (the world record for the women). By 8 a.m., the first group of 7 Summits Club expedition was standing on top of the world, as follows:
Alexander Abramov (7th time at the top)
Lyudmila Korobeshko (3rd time at the top)
Alex and Luda - the world's first couple three times climbed Mount Everest
Liana Chabdarova was forced to stop climbing on 8500 due to a headache.
Now all go down in order to reach to the evening camp ABC at 6400 ...
21.05.2016. Information about climbing Everest by the second group of 7 Summits Club: All at the top!
The second group is at the top:
Dennis Provalov and Igor Demyanenko (at 6:20),
Noel Hannah (at 6:45),
Sergej Larin and Tatiana Yalovchak!
Members of the first group safely descended to ABC camp yesterday and today go to base camp: Liana Chabdarova, Irena Hazarova, Oleg Pimenov, Vlad Moroz and Vladimir Kotlyar. Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko will be waiting for the descent of the second group.
Roman Reutov stopped at the North Col for making pictures, and now he plans to descend to base camp ..