The 7 Summits Club expedition on Mount Everest 2016. Shooting of the film "The High-Altitude Gene”. Part 1
The expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest in 2016 can be called historical. After all, it hosted the main shooting of the future film "The High-Altitude Gene", which will become our presentation for many years to come. The ascent was difficult, the conditions were severe, and there was everything that was required to create a decent story for film.
In a time when most Western companies have come to Everest with mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with 22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!
11th of April. Kathmandu
April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.
Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak
List of participants:
With Permit Everest (8848 m)
- Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
- Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
- Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
- Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
- Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
- Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
- Irena Kharazova. Russia.
- Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
- Lay Kwai Chung. China.
- Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.
Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)
- Denis Provalov. Russia.
- Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.
Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)
- Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
- Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
- Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
- Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.
Total the top of Everest climbers 16 (12 + 4)
Planned record achievements:
Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.
Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).
Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.
Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.
Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.
https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/
Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)
- Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
- Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
- Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
- Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
- Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
- Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
- Elena Abramova. Russia.
A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)
- Christine Kozlova. Russia.
- Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
- Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.
During the expedition the group RD studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.
The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.
The team of the 7 Summits Club was invited to the gala evening, where the Prime Minister of Nepal honored the family of our Sirdar Mingma. They (he and two sisters) have three Guinness Recorda. In addition, Mingma was eight times on Everest, and he is the first Sherpa on Mount Elbrus.
The head of our expedition Alex Abramov was appointed to the company of champions and honorable citizens, who have made great contribution to the development of Nepal. And he said a good speech. We are proud of!
14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.
Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.
Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.
April 16th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...
pril 18th a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:
BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)
Today, all of our big expedition of the 7 Summits Club (and the 1st Russian women's expedition as a part) arrived to the Base Camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5100.
Almost a week we went here. First, Kathmandu, checking gear, document, festive ceremony of the start of the expedition. Then we made the flight to Lhasa at the altitude of 3600 - we were in the capital of Tibet. Visit Potala - the Palace of the Dalai Lama. Moving higher and higher: Shigatse, Xegar (with acclimatization climb to 4700) and today finally arrive at our base camp. The camp is well equipped: individual tents for all members of the expedition, dining room, kitchen, internet club, a huge recreation tent with sports equipment. Well, a sauna, finally. But still, we know from experience, the first night at this altitude is not easy.
However, until now, all members feel good. In the next couple of days we will be in the base camp to make radial trips to acclimatize.
April 24th. Yesterday we came back from a two-day acclimatization outing in the Middle Camp 5800, where they spent the night. Despite the fact that the distance is not very large - 10 km, and the drop is only about 700m, it was not easy to us. We walked up about 8 hours, all time under blowing of strong wind. And the last two hours the snowstorm began. We almost lost the way. In the camp, we came up with numb hands and feet, and some even fall into the river. So 200 gram of vodka Beluga, which Irena prudently brought with her, really saved and warmed us.
The night at 5800 was quite difficult - the wind was very strong, the strongest for the last week, only by miracle tents were not broken, although some stocks were bent.
Early in the morning at first light, we rushed down. By lunchtime we were in the base camp.
In the evening, Facundo Arana came to visit us. He is the star of Argentine cinema (singer and musician, as it later turned out), caused excitement of all our girls. We agreed that in September this year when Facundo will be in Moscow on tour, we will invite him to dinner together with all the participants of the expedition to Everest.
April 25th Lyudmila Korobeshko: the Puja ceremony was hold today in our camp. It means a blessing of all participants for a successful ascent. Lama of Rongbuk Monastery performed the ceremony. Now we definitely ready for the 6400! Today we will climb in the Middle Camp, tomorrow – to the ABC
Lyudmila Korobeshko: Our group made a second acclimatization circle with one overnight stay in the Camp Middle and two overnight stays in camp ABC at 6400.
The most difficult were two factors: a strong wind, which bent tents almost to the ground, and the presence of mice at the 6400, which caused extremely violent reaction of the Armenian part of the women's group.
Ice and fixed rope training went according to the plan. I would especially like to note the debut of Christina Kozlova. It was the first time in her life she picked up jumar, descender, self-belay and carabiner. And she could confident use all for the first time at an altitude of 6400. Where the usual things hardly repeat. Christina - chief director RD studio, and theoretically she could just walk around the base camp and give orders.
After two nights at the 6400 all rushed down with incredible speed: to bath, pool and cinema.
In the next three days the expedition will rest according the plan.
Today we have a day of complete rest, we went down 1000m, drink thick O2 at 4200, eat tomatoes with sugar, catch fish, driving along the rivers by car, and dance on the ruins of castles ...
May 6th. The Team of the 7 Summits Club completed the acclimatization on Everest. All members, guides and video crew came down to rest in the base camp. Members who had a permit to the North Col, are ready to return home. Congratulations to those who established there their altitude records!
Unfortunately, due to the severe weather conditions, not all of them were able to climb the North Col. All participants with permits for Everest spent two nights at an altitude of 7000 meters at the North Col. And they made the climb to an altitude of about 7500 meters. Everything goes according to plan the expedition. Although the snow conditions were more severe than usual. The expedition will rest first at the base camp, and then go down in the valley. Then the group will return to the base camp, then climb tj the ABC camp to wait for a weather window to climb to the summit.
From Press release:
Number of members - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.
Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak
List of participants:
With Permit Everest (8848 m)
Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
Irena Kharazova. Russia.
Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
Lay Kwai Chung. China.
Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.
Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)
Denis Provalov. Russia.
Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.
Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)
Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 summits.
Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 summits.
Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 summits.
Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 summits.
Total the top of Everest climbers 16 (12 + 4)
Planned record achievements:
Alexander Abramov - Ludmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.
Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).
Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.
Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.
Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.
https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/
The Everest-2016 team rested three days in the village Tashidzong. May 9th, The Victory Day, we went up to the base camp. While our plans are not clear, it all depends on when the Tibetan climbers prepare the route. By tradition, the Victory Day was marked in the base camp, a reception, to which were invited guests from other expeditions...
