The Omatikayi group made an attempt to climb to the top of Khan Tengri on August 22. As the weather worsened (snowfall and strong wind), the only right decision was made to turn around and go down to the assault Camp -3.
If we had stayed on the slopes for another couple of hours, we would have been hit by a squall wind that tore us off our feet. After the descent, the wind continued all night. Tents were torn. There was enlightenment in the morning, but the strong wind continued.
On August 23, there was a long and dangerous descent down through the so-called "bottleneck". The clouds did not allow us to see those terrible snow eaves that hung over us. A couple of hours and we exhaled, went down to a flat glacier. And then we walked 10 km along the glacier to the base camp on South. And there, finally, delicious food, a warm bed and a view of the beautiful Peak Pobeda (Victory)!!!
On August 24, departure to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek.
Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.