Kotlyar Svetlana

"Team A" is at the top of the highest mountain in Papua New Guinea - Wilhelm Peak 4509 m! Yesterday we walked a very picturesque trek to the Wilhelm Peak base camp, which is located at an altitude of 3600 m. The route went through the jungle, green valleys and waterfalls - at some point it seemed to us that we were in "Jurassic Park".

Three hours later we found ourselves on the shore of a beautiful lake, where our base camp was located. In the evening we rested and at 01:00 at night we set out to climb. The route to the summit took about 6 hours. It was a little windy and quite cool, and the weather and nature are very different from the region where Giluwe is located. We saw a very beautiful sunrise, saw the Giluwe peak from afar, where we stood literally 4 days ago, and at 7 am we were already standing at the top of Wilhelm Peak!

All the participants liked both the trek and the ascent; without this mountain our adventure would definitely be incomplete!

October 6. The adventures of "Team A" continue! Today we set off towards Mount Wilhelm. The road to Kegesugl took about 5 hours, but it passed through very picturesque places! High green hills, mountain rivers and villages scattered around.

By lunchtime we arrived at Betty Lodge, which is located at an altitude of 2800 m, where we were greeted very warmly! The locals put on a real show with traditional dances. It is incredibly green and beautiful here - after the gray and rather dirty Mount Hagen, it is simply a joy to the eye. The lodge is new, everything here is homely and cozy and made with love: large rooms, a cozy dining room with a fireplace and delicious food!

There is a trout farm on the territory: more than 55 thousand trout are grown here! This fish is supplied to all of PNG.

For dinner there were a lot of vegetables and fruits grown on the farm and of course the freshest trout and very tasty local coffee.

Tomorrow we are heading to the base camp of Mount Wilhelm, we will be without communication for two days.

Guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Svetlana Kotlyar.

October 5. That day we returned to civilization to our Highlander hotel! How nice it would be to take a hot shower and find ourselves in the warmth after all our adventures and trekking through the swamps under pouring rain!

  In the afternoon we visited two local tribes. The first is the Mudmen. Their bodies were decorated with clay, and on their heads were huge clay masks, weighing at least 10 kg. According to legend, they were defeated by an enemy tribe and were forced to flee to the Asaro River. Before trying to escape, they waited until dusk. The enemies saw them rising from the dirty banks, covered in mud, thought they were spirits and fled in fear.

The second tribe is Huli Wig. They decorate their faces with traditional Papuan flowers and wear headdresses ... made from their own hair and the feathers of the bird of paradise, which is the symbol of the country.

In the evening, a festive dinner was held, at which the participants received the coveted medals and certificates for the ascent. They recalled the brightest moments and shared impressions. For some of the group, the program ends, and they return home. Well, a new adventure awaits us with the second half of the group - climbing the highest mountain in the country - Wilhelm Peak!

Guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Svetlana Kotlyar.

It rained almost the entire night before the ascent and there was a strong wind. Due to the weather, it was decided to postpone the start an hour later. At 4.30 in the morning we had breakfast, filled up the thermoses and left the camp at 5.00.

 The first part of the route also passed through swampy terrain. By dawn, we reached the ridge, from where a stunning view of the top of Giluwe opened up, painted in the warm rays of dawn.

 The ascent itself is not technically difficult. However, the last part of the route is a rocky section where belay is required. At one time, our leader Alexander Abramov equipped this section with bolts. We divided into two groups and continued the ascent.

 At 8.30 in the morning, our "Team A" in full force stood on the top of the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania! Great weather and magnificent views from the summit!

Everyone was happy! For many participants, this volcano has already become the 4th, 5th and even 6th of the "7 Volcanoes" project. 

The ascent did not seem easy to anyone. The rocky section is quite slippery, you need to be on guard all the time so as not to slip, which once again proves that there are no easy mountains!

Group guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Svetlana Kotlyar.

October 3. At 5 am we left for the gates of the national park. In the morning there was good visibility and while we were driving we were surrounded by stunning mountain landscapes. An hour and a half later we arrived at the beginning of the route. Here we changed into rubber boots, porters took our bags, and we went trekking.

 The hike to the camp is 12 km and about 6 hours in time. The first part of the route is a real jungle: tall trees, ferns and mosses. Then the path goes along the river, underfoot there is grass and marshy soil. That's why we wear rubber boots, without them there is nowhere.

At the foot of the mountain we have a real base camp: large comfortable tents, toilets, this season we brought a dining tent and tables. The 7 Summits Club created the maximum possible comfort for the participants in such conditions!

After lunch, we discussed the ascent plan, practiced walking in ropes and working with equipment.

Group guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Svetlana Kotlyar.

Today, at 8:30 am local time, the 7 Summits Club Team "Group A" in full force climbed to the top of the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania - Giluwe, 4,368 m high! The day turned out to be quite difficult and very eventful, all participants are great! Details later.

Hello to everyone from the "Group A" team! We continue our journey through the exotic country of Papua New Guinea!

This morning we checked out of the hotel and stopped at a very colorful local market for fruit. The locals greeted us very joyfully - they smiled, waved their hands and most importantly - everyone was smiling!

Then we drove towards our mountain lodge, stopping at Paya Village on the way. The villagers told us about their customs and traditions, treated us to a traditional dish "mumu" - this is meat baked in an earthen pit, lined with hot stones and coals and wrapped in banana leaves. And while we were waiting for lunch, the Papuans put on a performance with songs and dances for us.

After that, we drove to the place of overnight stay and checked into the Mountain Lodge. Now we are already at an altitude of 2400 m. In the evening at dinner we will discuss the plan for tomorrow, in the morning we move towards Giluwe! There will be no connection for the next 2 days, do not lose us and wait for greetings from the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania!

Guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Svetlana Kotlyar.

Hello from Papua New Guinea from the "Group A" team! Today we met all the participants of our program at the Port Moresby airport. Before boarding the domestic flight, some participants even managed to swim in the Coral Sea - when else would there be such an opportunity? Then we flew to Mount Hagen, where our program of climbing the Giluwe volcano and Wilhelm Peak will begin. We checked into the Highlander hotel with a beautiful green area, bought the necessary products for the mountain. And in the evening there was a welcome dinner, where all the participants (and there are 13 of us!) met and told about themselves. It is nice to watch how people who are still strangers to each other in the morning, by the evening begin to actively communicate, laugh and become a team.

Guides of the 7 Summits Club: Alexander Dorojukov and Svetlana Kotlyar.

Svetlana Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Papua New Guinea:

The team of guides of the 7 Summits Club has reached Papua New Guinea! The Seven Volcanoes project is rapidly gaining momentum! And in just a couple of days we will meet our large group and head to Giluwe volcano and Wilhelm Peak!

Svetlana Kotlyar, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings to all from the Elbrus region from the ZUCCHINI team!  We accept your congratulations! After all, today our whole team ascended the highest point in Europe — Mount Elbrus 5642 m!

The weather was the most wonderful: there was not a cloud in the sky all morning and we had a stunning view of the Main Caucasian Ridge. We froze a little on the Saddle, but then the warm July sun warmed us up.

We stood at the top at 7.30 am, and already at 11 we celebrated our ascent in the refuge with champagne.

It was not an easy climb for all the participants, but all the efforts were definitely worth it. The members have realized their dream! For almost everyone, Elbrus became the first peak in their lives.

Four groups of the 7 Summits Club climbed the Pastukhov Rocks that day. Thus, the acclimatization cycle for all these groups was completed. Ahead is a day of rest and an assault on the summit of Mount Elbrus. The weather was quite gloomy today, sometimes it snowed. The  summit of Elbrus was still not visible. Group guides: Alexander Avtomonov, Alexander Dorojukov, Svetlana Kotlyar and Dmitry Semenov.

Svetlana Kotlyar, Guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

 Greetings from the KABACHKI team from Elbrus!  We are continuing our acclimatization program. Today, after breakfast, we packed our bags, registered the group with the Ministry of Emergency Situations and took a cable car up to the Gara-Bashi station. It was a little cloudy in the morning, but still Grandpa Elbrus greeted us!

We settled into a high-altitude refuge, learned how to properly put on high-altitude boots and crampons, and moved towards Refuge of 11 for snow and ice classes.

By lunchtime, clouds covered the mountain, hail began, but still we managed to work out actively: we learned how to use an ice axe correctly, mastered the technique of self-arrst on the slope, practiced moving along the fixed ropes.

In general, the acclimatization program is going according to plan!

Downstairs, a delicious lunch was waiting for us, prepared by the caring hands of our alpine chef Olga Demina. The guys are absolutely delighted with the service!

Now we are resting and preparing for tomorrow's trip to the Pastukhov Rocks.

Svetlana Kotlyar, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings to all from the Elbrus region from the ZUCCHINI group! Yesterday we checked into our beautiful hotel "Povorot", and today there was the first acclimatization rotation to the slopes of Mount Cheget.

We walked along a beautiful forest path to an altitude of 2700. We walked cheerfully — after all, our goal was to reach the famous Ai cafe to taste the legendary pies and ayran with lingonberry jam.

We quickly went down, had lunch and went to the rental to get the necessary equipment for climbing. The team is great, we've only known each other for the second day, but we've already managed to rally and make friends! Tomorrow we will continue our acclimatization program and climb the Gara Bashi, on the slopes of Elbrus.

News from Everest. Viktor Volodin's group (8000 Club) is going to storm Mount Everest from Camp 4 on the Southern Saddle at 9 p.m. today. The wind, due to which there have been no ascents for three days, is subsiding. As it was predicted. Unfortunately, Leonid decided to end the expedition. He has already safely descended to the base camp.

 Alex Abramov's group (the 7 Summits Club) in full force went up to Camp 3 and is now resting.

News of the mountaineering school in Khibiny

NP1 department. 

Today we had a day of practical training on natural terrain. The main goal was to prepare for the terrain that we will have on the upcoming route. Since our route will be technically simple, but there will be a lot of snow, we held snow classes.  We learned how to trail snow, walk with an ice axe, performed "self-arrest" in the snow, on a snowy slope in several stages. We spun through the back, spun through the side, walked in ropes.

We got to know a little more about the structure of crampons and learned how to put them on. After that, we returned home, where there was a lecture section.

We got acquainted with the itinerary documentation, with the itinerary, told how it goes in the alpine camps, who is the graduate, who is responsible for safety, how the itinerary is filled out. And in the description of the route, we studied our route, drew the attention of the climbers to important points. We chose tactics and discussed it, selected equipment for tomorrow's route, told how to navigate the route, what, again, to pay attention to.

Guides: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov, Alexey Lonchinsky.

 Department of NP2

We climbed to the summit of Yugspor along route 1B "Damsky" on the left side of the South buttress.  There was a lot of snow on the route, as always in winter Khibiny, but visibility was excellent. On the descent, the aurora borealis was observed during the day in the form of a rainbow column over the neighboring peak.

Guide: Andrey Selivanov.

 Yesterday, the mountaineering school of the 7 Summits Club in Khibiny started!  Both branches of the participants (beginners and continuing ones) gathered in the city of Kirovsk.

The first department:

"We had a lecture on equipment, a lecture on knots, a practical lesson. They told the participants about the equipment hanging on the system, which points and how much they hold, how to carry it all, how to shorten ropes. But not all of them passed, they did not overload people with information.

Then there was a practical lesson on the interaction of ropes. We walked between the trees in ropes. We learned to get attached first, middle, last, shorten the rope, belay each other, get each other, get up on self-belay and now we are all going to go together to watch the northern lights.

Tomorrow there will be a practical lesson on the terrain all day, we will continue to learn how to set points and assemble stations and re-work out interaction with new introductory ones."

Guides: Ratmir Mukhametzyanov and Alexey Lonchinsky.

 The second department:

"The NP-2 group of the Seven Summits Mountaineerimng School of Khibiny held the first day of training sessions on the Urban Gap rock massif. After the lecture on "Modern climbing equipment and its proper use", the participants of the Mountaineering School practiced the techniques of climbing snow-covered rocks in crampons, climbing and descending with a "dulfer" along vertical fixed ropes. We tried real drytulling on icy rocks. The weather in the Khibiny is now like in winter Scotland, snowy and humid."

Guide: Andrey Selivanov.

Greetings from Alex Abramov and Sveta Kotlyar from Kenya!

Today we finally moved into the mountains! We got from Nairobi to our first camp for about 5 hours with a stop for lunch, and then walked to the camp for another hour. Monkeys were running across the road, and from afar we saw antelopes in the valley!

Our camp called Bandas is located at an altitude of 2,950 m. There are very comfortable living conditions here: today we are housed in comfortable houses, there are beds, closets, a bathroom and even a stove, which was heated in the evening by our caring local assistants.  There is even a Wi-Fi connection in the large dining room. We had a very tasty fish for dinner.

However, today was not without adventures. When we arrived at the camp, it turned out that my trunk with all the necessary things for climbing was left in Nairobi at the hotel reception. But unsolvable problems, as you know, do not exist, especially for us. We called our partners, and tomorrow they promise to deliver things immediately to the second camp.

Tomorrow we move higher, to 3600. So far, I really like everything — good service, excellent living conditions and delicious food. What else can climbers wish for?

The adventures of the 7 Summits Club team continue in Papua New Guinea, one of the most exotic countries in the world! After successfully climbing the highest volcano in Australia and Oceania, Giluwe, the group moved to the base camp of Mount Wilhelm, the highest peak in the country. Now the group is resting after the march. On the way, the members were caught in the rain, but the mood is optimistic, as is the weather forecast for the start of the ascent!

We wish our team good luck and are waiting for news!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Ratmir Mukhametzyanov reports from Kazakhstan:

 We have run out of training camps in Tuyuk-Su, the members of the NP-2 group have completed their program!  We made 4 ascents from 1B to 3A of the difficulty category. The participants of the gathering studied and practiced, walked and climbed, jumared and dulfered. There were a lot of lectures, practical classes, evening gatherings, after climbing, they did an analysis of mistakes.

The cherry on the cake was climbing the route 3A of the difficulty category with an instructor as a leader, so that students could observe the work of a professional on the wall from the side. Although before that they climbed, collected stations, oriented themselves and interacted with each other independently.  We have learned a lot, but there is still a long way to improve.

I was very happy to work with such motivated students!

Our team is trying to grasp the last days of the training camp and absorb the maximum amount of experience from the instructors. Today, the NP-2 group went to the peak of Octebrenok on route 3A. The key sections were led by the coach, the guide of the group Ratmir Mukhametzyanov, and the students absorbed the experience and watched carefully. Such a scheme of training ascents allows junior dischargers to clearly see how professionals work.