Aconcagua(6962) - Page 15

Hello Seven Summits Club  and everyone who watches our video diary! Ku-ku! We are at the top of Aconcagua with Cyril.

The weather is perfect!

We caught this weather window.…

Five and a half hours and we're on top.

Kirill is an animal, simply. The fire horse.

Weather... I’ve never been in such weather on this mountain. Honestly word! Warm, no wind at all. I mean, we got the perfect window. Now we are going to go down, because in a few days I may make a re-ascent. We should get some rest tonight.

Hi, 7 Summits Club! We continue our diary of the ascent of Mount Aconcagua. Today is our day of rest and on this occasion we decided to prepare chicken soup by ourself.  We asked to the dining room to the local guys. They allocated us products allocated cooking place.

…

We rest slowly, we come off. Rest day - we need to recover. I'm gonna go ask how our group is doing. Now I am trying to find them…

 Tomorrow we plan to reach Nido de Condores, a high-rise camp at 5,400.  With overnight already.

Vladimir Kotlyar: Hello, 7 Summits! The group "Hussar ballad". We're doing great, the band's feeling good, we're up on the Plaza de Mulas.

 Svetlana, a member of the group, holds free acupuncture sessions…

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club presented our medals to the members of the Aconcagua team. The group, which called itself  "How to catch a raccoon", climbed to the highest peak in South America on January 29.

Congratulations!

New heights, new summits dear friends!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club: the group of "How to catch a raccoon" successfully climbed Mount Aconcagua! All members of the group and the guides reached the summit.

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, from the summit of Aconcagua: Aloha, Seven Summits! ....  The team "How to catch a raccoon" ... stands on the summit of Aconcagua! Further – emotions…

 Listen to the voice mail:

Aloha, everyone! This is Vladimir Kotlyar, Valeriy Myasoedov and the "How to catch a raccoon".  Raccoon we haven't caught, but successfully returned to Nido de Condores, 5500. Here we live and spend a night. Now we are preparing dinner, before that, we had a big lunch. Overall, the resort really is. But it is cold at this resort, Argentina. Deceive us. Tomorrow we will go to Colera, and far -  as God wills. Keep your fingers cross for us. Wish us luck!

Listen to the voice mail:

Hello! Vladimir Kotlyar and group "How to catch a raccoon". Finally there is Internet, and we can share photos. We successfully made an acclimatization walking. We are now living in Plaza de Mulas tomorrow we go up and I will not call only via satellite. So today I throw a lot of pictures, sorry!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:

We got the permits and went into the mountains. We start moving from Penitentes to the foot of Aconcagua!

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club:  So, the adventure begins! Today our season on Aconcagua began. I and Valery checked our equipment, then we went to the store to purchase food supplies. And our first member Irina Zisman (who arrived straight from Antarctica) actively helped us. In the evening there was no doubt that we need to raise a glass to a successful first day. Tomorrow we will meet the rest of the members of the expedition to the highest point in South America!

Viktor Ershov, guide of  the 7 Summits Club:

Hello Everyone! Ascent of Aconcagua was successful, but not to the top. We reached the height of 6456м by GPS, just above the hut of Independence. There we were at 14.30, then did not go far. Anna felt bad and impending storm, which later happened. So we turned down. Overall, I think for Anne it is a very cool achievement, to climb to the height of Mera Peak. She was pleased, now she wants to train hard and to come back to Aconcagua next year with 7 Summits! The weather was such as it should be for Christmas and New Year - fell more than a meter of snow for a few days, I was tired of trail. The local guides are in shock, for a long time such was not. And cold. But not very windy. In general,  we tired and very pleased with the result.

And now – for wine and steaks!!

A message from Victor Ershov from Aconcagua:

Hello! We spent two not the sweetest nights in the camp Nido de Condores and rose to acclimatize to camp Berlin at almost 6000m. Cold, windy, snowy... If you add mountain sickness with headache and nausea - this is about so we did! But now we have descended to the base camp, Plaza de Mulas, it's hot here and comfortable! A couple of nights, and then - only to the top!

Our guide Viktor Ershov reports with Aconcagua. We arrived at the village of Penitentes at 2600 m, climbed a small mountain on the opposite side. Height of about 3000 m. We feel good. Here blows strong  wind, a lot of the hot sun and the excellent Malbec (which I took with me...

 Happy New year!

For our tandem "Sturdy and Powerful" (Sergej Larin and Vladimir Kotlyar) – today is a great day of drying. We're getting ready to leave home. But first, we need to prepare equipment to preserve it for a year in Mendoza.

Our two groups: large - under the leadership of Vladimir Kotlyar and small - under the direction of Sergei Larin successfully reached the summit of Aconcagua and descended safely to base camp Plaza le Mulas. Our congratulations! Climbing has been made ahead of schedule, due to the completely of the weather in the area.

 Vladimir Kotlyar, "... we caught the window. We have already on Aconcagua winter came with rain and storm ... ".

 Sergej Larin: "I would like to add that you need to climb to Aconcagua in January ..."

  During stay and preparation in the camp Plaza de Mulas, our climbers from groups with guides Vladimir Kotlyar and Sergei Larin walked to the glacier. And, of course, they looked for a visit to the artist Miguel, in his unique picture gallery at 4200. After that,  groups went up to the camp Canada, where they set up tents and sat in them to wait out a strong wind with snow and rain. For tomorrow the weather should be better and the joint team plan to go up to the camp Nido de Condores where they check, survived or not our big tent, staged by Alexander Abramov...

Two of our team, working strictly according to the plan, went up to the camp Plaza de Mulas at 4,200 meters. Vladimir Kotlyar and Sergei Larin are working in the role of guides from the 7 summits Club. Both groups successfully completed the cycle of acclimatization at camp Confluencia, went under the South wall of the Aconcagua and finally climbed to the base camp.

So far so good, everything is good...

Vladimir Kotlyar: The team named as "The tactic of trump ten" came and met in Mendoza. We are ready for adventure!

 The permits are obtained, we go to a rental for crampons.

 A group named "Tartar and Larin" also begins an expedition.

 All together they go to Penitentes. Groups will work independently, but cooperate!

Sergey Larin, a guide of the 7 Summis Club:  

The climb was difficult. We were waiting for weather for four days. Then the one-day window has appeared, but it was necessary to begin (the first two days) in difficult weather conditions. In the first day porters refused to start. But as a result, I think, they were satisfied that they managed to reach Nido de Condores. It is good that we have put up earlier a big stationary tent – it has helped out us, because in this place to put tents on such weather is problematic. In day of summit bid some teams turned back, some refused. But the team named “Good, Bad and Angry” has shown an excellent spirit and strength of mind that has allowed to achieve result. Now we already are sitting and we waiting for a helicopter on Plaza de Mulas.

Sergey Larin: …. We climbed on top of Aconcagua …. went down to the Cholera camp. We all are fine. Detailed information - from Plas de Mulas. See you! Sergey Larin.

 Page of Facebook of Vasily Shakhnovsky

 Weather also created great difficulties. Strong wind didn't cease all the time of ascent, frequent and dense snow reduced visibility to several meters, the hard frost added to "pepper" to feelings.

 Nevertheless, in 12 hours the group reached top. The way back took about 2,5 hours. All people exhausted returned to the camp from which began the final storm. After a dinner, hot tea and spending the night in tents, next morning, they begin descent to the base camp. It is possible (if everything develops favorably)  tomorrow, having taken rest in the base camp, they will go down, having finished a route.