Argentina - Page 13

Today on Aconcagua  there was a day of acclimatization, rotation to Canada camp 5000m. The whole team, 10 people, climbed at a good pace: some in 3 hours, some in 4 hours. Tomorrow is a day of rest and the forecast promises a hurricane. Therefore, our two Sherpas went to 5600 and 6000 and strengthened the fastening of our tents. Tomorrow we decided to make a Sherpa Party. Fortunately, seven Sherpas are working in Aconcagua in different teams. And we are also waiting for arrival of Nims (Nirmal Purja) with his team.

Andrey Berezin a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Our second Aconcagua (New Year's) group successfully reached the base camp of the Plaza de Mulas. There we were cordially greeted by Alex Abramov.

Today we practiced moving in crampons on ice. For this, a beautiful glacier with calgaspores was chosen. Guides of the group Alex Abramov and Andrey Berezin.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and leader of the group:

Happy New Year! We stormed Aconcagua for four days. And on New Year's Eve, the team climbed to the summit. All 15 people: 11 members and 4 guides.

   On December 31, 2019 from 13:30 to 14:00 Argentine time, all 11 members and 4 guides of the first team of the 7 Summits Club of the season climbed to the top of Aconcagua. Leader: Alexander Abramov, President of the Club of 7 Summits.

The Russian camp on Aconcagua offers a unique service, see the website of the 7 Summits Club ...

Video and photos of the day of assault on the peak...

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and the leader of the group:

Aconcagua!!! Today, December 31, 2019 from 13:30 to 14:00 Argentine time, all 11  members and 4 guides of the first team of the 7 Summits Club ascended to the top of реу highest peak of America. Happy New Year, everyone!

Andrei Berezin’s group arrived in Mendoza yesterday. They got permits for climbing Aconcagua and started  today to Penitentes.

Alex Abramov from Argentina:  Tonight there was a beautiful sunset over Aconcagua. And  plus Argentinean Asado - meat on fire. Life is really perfect!

Tomorrow at 11 o’clock in the morning we go on a climb. In order to stand on  the top of Aconcagua in 2 days.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: 

 Today there was a day of rest at Aconcagua Base Camp on the Plaza de Mulas. The team members washed, collected equipment, “cleaning feathers”. By chance today, the owner of the company, Kari Kobler, came into the camp. We work side by side on Everest base camp around for 20 years.

 I also met Hiro (Hiroyuki Kuraoka). He is the best Japanese guide. We worked a lot alongside him on all Seven summits. Hiro is on the right in the photo…

 And also, yesterday Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor set a new world record. He ran to the summit of Aconcagua from the Plaza de Mulas (4200 m) to the top in 3 hours 38 minutes 17 seconds. Moreover, he says that he kept a heart rate of 140 beats per minute. And only at the top of the pulse rose to 160. Probably, from the happiness that he became the owner of a world record.

Alex Abramov from Argentina: 

Yesterday, the group of the 7 Summits Club spent a night at Nido De Condores, at 5600m for acclimatization. Guides and sherpas brought all things in advance. They set up a large tent - a kitchen-dining room, other tents, brought public sleeping bags and rugs. Members brought only crampons and clothes. The night was fun. In the morning, the group went down, but four of the five guides went up to the Cholera camp at an altitude of 6000m. And they also set up there a kitchen-dining tents, 7 tents for members and guides, sleeping bags, rugs and food were also raised. Everything is ready for the ascent от Aconcagua, which according to the plan should take place on the night of December 30-31.

The 7 Summits Club team climbed into the Nido de Condores camp on the slopes of Aconcagua. Here, at an altitude of 5500 meters, the group will spend one night with the aim of acclimatization and will go down to the base camp.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

 The village library is working! Today the team has a day of rest. We sorted out our things. Today Volodya Kotlyar and two Sherpas left for Nido de Condores. Tomorrow we get out with things there, on Nido. There we spend a night and go down. Today I met famous guides, my old friends. This is Hiro from Japan, who was 9 times on Everest. And Lito is an Argentinean guide who has been on Aconcagua 67 times.

Alex Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

Today we went as a team to the Camp Canada 4,900 m. Everyone liked it. Although we are all tired, of course. But today is Christmas! And tomorrow is a day of rest! Hurrah! Everyone feels great!

 We live very well. There is a separate club tent in our Russian camp of the 7 Summits Club. We, all members and guides, sleep by one person in a tent. We have great food. Free, unlimited Wi-fi, shower and charging ... with electricity.

 And what’s very important: we all have large double tents. Like on Everest. And in each tent there are gas heaters.

 Also, for every dinner we give out one bottle of Argentinean red wine for 4 people. Therefore, after dinner, we sit in the warmth. We play guitar and cards.

 We pulled upstairs into the upper camps of Nido De Condores and Cholera, large dining tents. 10 sleeping tents, 40 sleeping bags, 40 rugs, food and gas. We have 5 guides for the first group of 11 members: three Russians and two Nepalese Sherpas.

 We are waiting for the second group on December 28, with which four guides will also work.

 Yes, upon arrival in Mendoza we will settle our members at the five-star Diplomatic Hotel.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club:

Hello! We bring to mind the base camp. Today, Sasha Dorojukov and I went up with things to the camp Canada. We raised 40 rugs there ...

 Vladimir Kotlyar, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club:

While Abramov and Dorojukov worked on supplying the camp, Kotlyar decided to relax and got high with the group. We walked to the Horcones glacier, where we walked through the fabulous "forest" of calgaspores - ice stalagmites ...

Alex Abramov from Argentina:

The 7 Summits Club Team climbed to the base camp on the Plaza de Mulas. The mood is excellent. Our tent stands first in the camp. Therefore, everyone knows us and comes to visit us...

Vladimir Kotlyar, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Aloha, 7 Summits Club! Five days we worked hard. And now: the base camp is ready, the camp at an altitude of 5500 is also ready to receive guests, climbers on Aconcagua. It remains only to establish a camp at 6000. We will deal with this in a few days. In the meantime, we are waiting for Abramov with the first team ....

 Alexander Dorojukov, the 7 Summits Club guide:

Hello everyone from Argentina! Today, our team moved to Penitentos. We packed the things to take it to the Base Camp and walked around the local hills for acclimatization ...

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Hello! Here is Alex Abramov  from Mendoza. Today, the first half of the group came to Mendoza. We collect things, relax and even participate in street parties.

 Meanwhile, the Russian camp at Aconcagua is being built ...

Vladimir Kotlyar, a guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Aloha, friends and girlfriends! Vovchik Kotlyar, Pemba Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa advanced in the direction of the mountain in order to prepare the camps for the start of the Russian season in Aconcagua. Today we will spend a night in the Confluence camp at an altitude of 3400. Tomorrow we will go to the base camp, where we will begin work. We are looking forward to all!

 Alexandr Dorojukov fro Argentina: 

A team of the 7 Summits Club’s guides came to Mendoza. Soon we will be in the Aconcagua base camp. And now we rest and carry loads. We also check tents and equipment. But these photos we have not. There are only the following…