Argentina - Page 14

 For Aconcagua we have a long season ahead. The “Russian Camp” of the 7 Summits Club will host six groups, and all of them are large. And there is still the opportunity to join! Urgently call! The first group begins its trek to the highest peak of South America on December 18. But before this there is still a lot of preparatory work, which is better done under the command of the most experienced expedition organizer Alexander Abramov. In addition, this year, our friends from Nepal, Sherpas, will work in the “Russian Camp” as high-altitude porters. This is a new word in the service of climbers on Aconcagua. It should work out fine! Today  Vladimir Kotlyar and Alexander Dorozhukov flew to Argentina with Alex Abramov, and soon Andrei Berezin will join them. Great company!

On January 27, 2019,  President of the 7 Summits Club Alex Abramov climbed the highest peak of South America, Mount Aconcagua, as part of “Seven summits in seven months” project. His partner on the climb was a guide the 7 Summits Club Artem Rostovtsev.  During the short acclimatization and preparation for the ascent, Alex Abramov lived in the "Russian camp" of the 7 Summits Club on the Plaza de Mulas and Nido de Condores. 

The ascent  took place in difficult weather conditions, Alexander and Artem were the only climbers who climbed to the top on this day.

Andrey Berezin, 7 Summits Club guide from Argentina:

 On February 19, 2019, the final group of the season in Aconcagua climbed the summit. We came out of the camp Nido de Condores at 2.20, as the next day promised a strong wind (this is normal for Aconcagua), and at 12.20 days were on top.

Victor Ershov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Hello everyone, from Aconcagua, from El Fuego group! Yesterday we went up to our high-altitude camp (Nido de Condores) at 5500 meters. There is now a little warmer and you can eat right outdoor, because in the tents are hot. For dinner, for breakfast and lunch thanks to our guide-chef - handyman-all-trades Andrey Berezin!

  We spent here a night, unfortunately, not all slept well, because the height. And in the morning we went for acclimatization on 6000 meters, to camp of Colera. We very quickly went there and back, in just 2.5 hours! And for a couple of hours we returned to the Base camp - Plaza de Mulas where we will accumulate the oxygen and strength to further climb after a day of rest. The forecasts are not good again, so today we went to 6000 meters for better acclimatization. We may have to go  to the summit from 5500 meters - well, let's see, while we hope for the best!

Evgeny Lesnitsky and Alexey Sivkov under the guidance of two instructors of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Lastochkin and Boris Egorov made a bold attempt to climb one of the most inaccessible peaks of the world – Fitz-Roy.  And as usual, Eugene Lesnitsky mounted a musical film on the theme of this heroic attempt:

 Victor Ershov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

 Greetings from the group of El Fuego from the slopes of Aconcagua! Today we finally have the sun and we went for a walk on the glacier Horcones, look at penentos (calgaspors), snow-ice cool forest, very beautiful. Now we have lunch, delicious mushroom soup, red fish and sweet melon. And then we'll visit Miguel in the highest gallery in the world and then just resting.

Victor Ershov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Hello from the Russian camp on Aconcagua with 4300m! We finally got here, though! We - this group El Fuego (Lights!), and came quite quickly, just 7 hours and 21 km at 1000m drop from camp Confluencia. Great result! And yesterday, in Confluencia we passed successfully medical-check - with all very cool indicators, physicians were surprised. The team members, of course, were tired after two days of difficult walking.  But no worries, tomorrow is a holiday, and finally  internet here it is!

Victor Ershov, guide of the 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

Greetings from Argentina, from a group of El Fuego! This morning we said goodbye to hot Mendoza and went to the mountains, to the village of Penitentes. On arrival, after we gave things to the mules, we went for a walk to 3100m. Tomorrow we will go to the zone without communication for 2 days, we will go to the Confluence camp. And then we will try the day after tomorrow to come to the Plaza de Mulas, in our cozy Russian camp of the 7 Summits…

Svetlana Kotlyar from Argentina:

 Hello 7 Summits Club from the hot Mendoza!

The Aconcagua-3 team descended to the exit of the Aconcagua national Park.

We checked into the hotel and in the evening we were at a dinner dedicated to our ascent.

 Guides of the 7 Summits Club Vladimir Kotlyar, Andrei Berezin and Viktor Ershov  awarded participants that have reached the coveted summit of Aconcagua 6962!

 It's sad to know it's over. This expedition was special. We became friends.

Yesterday there were talks about the brightest moments, laughter through tears, happy smiles, many words of gratitude.

 And today — walks in Mendoza, rafting and visiting local restaurants with tasting the best Argentine wines.

28 Jan.  The final and culminating part of our journey to the Andes and  ascent of Aconcagua begins.

Today we leave Plaza de Mulas and again climb to the 5500 camp Nido de Cóndores.

The transition took 6 hours, only the weather unlike the previous acclimatization exit - like heaven and earth!  On Nido the sun is shining, a little cool breeze is blowing, almost like on Mulas, maybe a few degrees lower.

 And we waited for another beautiful sunset over Aconcagua, then scattered to the tents and getting ready for bed.

29 Jan.  Transfer from Nido de Cóndores to camp Cólera.

 Climb 500 meters, we have overcome that distance in three hours.

The camp Cólera is very beautiful - it is surrounded by picturesque rocks, and closer you can see our goal — the summit of Aconcagua!

Super-guides of the 7 Summits Club prepared chicken soup. At 6000 -  real masterpiece of Alpine cuisine!  We dined in the open air and discussed  upcoming plans for tomorrow.

We went to the tents around 6 PM, we are saving up for the ascent! Start at 2: 30.

30 Jan.

Team "Aconcagua-3" consisting of 12 people heroically climbed to the highest point of the two Americas - the summit of Aconcagua 6962!

We left camp Cólera at 4 am, the way to the top took almost 12 hours!

 The weather was excellent: only at the site with the traverse the wind was blowing about 40 mph, but in General, the conditions for climbing were very favorable!

 The last climberss went down to the camp for about 10 PM, all the forces left on the ascent. And in the camp we were waiting for a hot chicken soup prepared by Viktor Ershov.

 We woke up on the morning of January 31 and soon ran down to the Plaza de Mulas! Now we are resting, recuperating and accept your congratulations!!!

 From the video clips sent by Alexander Abramov, we have mounted a small video film. This is the story of how on January 27 he and Artem Rostovtsev climbed to the top of Mount Aconcagua.

Details, emotions and colors in the video:

On January 27, 2019, Alexander Abramov climbed the highest peak in South America, Mount Aconcagua,  it was a part of “Seven summits in seven months” project. Artem Rostovtsev, also the guide of the 7 Summits Club, was his climbing partner.  Climbing took place in difficult weather conditions, the summit was not easy.

Svetlana Kotlyar from Argentina:

Hello 7 Summits Club from "Aconcagua-3"!

 Yesterday we had a great day of rest here: we had time to sunbathe, and walk to the waterfall, and pass the medical check.

 At Plaza de Mulas there is almost summer — by 10 am the sun comes out and a cool breeze blows.

 For lunch, our Alpine chef Anya cooked us mushroom soup of real Russian mushrooms, for dinner there was fried potatoes with mushrooms! The team members were thrilled!

 Everyone feels good! Now we have breakfast and prepare to go up. Today again we spend a night at 5500 m in Nido de Cóndores, tomorrow we rise to 6000, and from there we will try to storm the top of Aconcagua!

 Wish us luck!

Svetlana Kotlyar from Argentina: Hello, 7 Summits Club!  Group Aconcagua-3 with you!

Yesterday we made quite a difficult marsh up to the camp Nido de Cóndores, gaining more than 1000 m in height.

The weather changed.  Already in the morning the summit of our "stone guard" was tightly tightened dark gray clouds, and we were blown by unpleasant wind.

 We left Plaza de Mulas at 10: 00 am, less than three hours before we reached Canada Camp.  And then a strong wind came up, by feelings up to 30-35 km/h, and after a minutes it started to snow.

But even in such difficult conditions the group reached 5500 m in six hours! Our super guides say it's a good time!

  In the upper camp there is a large tent-dining room (“Strong hall”), where we were waiting for hot soup and tea prepared by Andrei Berezin! We settled in large comfortable triple tents, walked around the camp.

In the late afternoon the sun came out and you could see how fast the clouds are running over the top of Aconcagua!

Today we spend a night at a new height and tomorrow we run down to the Plaza de Mulas!

Svetlana Kotlyar from Argentina: Hello, 7 Summits Club!

 There is Aconcagua-3 group:  We continue acclimatization rotation on Aconcagua!

 Yesterday we went up to the height of 5000 m to the camp "Canada". We managed it at a good pace in three hours. There we had lunch, admired the views and went down to our Russian camp on Plaza de Mulas, where we were waiting for a hot dinner.

 The weather is bright sunshine and blue sky!  Tomorrow according to the plan there will be a day of rest and then we will climb to Nido de Condores - 5500 m.

 In the Russian camp there are Russian songs to the guitar!

Alexander Abramov from Argentina:

 Today  there was a day of rest and preparation for the ascent. Tomorrow morning I and Artem Rostovtsev go to Nido de Condores.  And today we walked through the camps, went to the Studio of Miguel.

 There we met a Japanese guide Hiro (Kazuya Hiraide). He brought 86-year-old Yuichiro Miura and his son. Son ascended the summit, but Old Miura would not reach 300 m to the summit.

Svetlana Kotlyar from the base camp under mount Aconcagua:

Greetings from the group "Aconcagua-3" from the base camp Plaza de Mulas!

 Yesterday we made a long trek: we gained almost 900 m in height and walked more than 20 km. The whole trekking took about 8.5 hours with snacks and rest stops.

We left the Confluence camp at 8: 00 am. Just a couple of minutes the sun came out and warmed with its rays.

Trekking can be divided into two segments: the first,  so-called "frying pan", a fairly long (about 13 km) area of almost flat surface. Second — is the steep  path to the  base camp.

The weather is good. At these altitudes become warmer — the previously frozen streams melted, and several times we were looking through them the crossing.

The idea that the Plaza de Mulas is waiting for us helped made the way warmer! Anya Ershova (mountain chef) and guide Andrey Berezin have prepared everything for our arrival: what could be better than a hot lunch after such a hard day?

 Service at height level: members of the group live in separate tents, we have our own kitchen and a large tent-dining room, where it is warm and cozy to gather together. Food, drinks, vegetables, fruits, sweets - all this in abundance!

 Today, the plan is a small acclimatization walk.

Alexander Abramov, President of 7 Summits Club from Argentina:

The team of «7 Summits in 7 months” decided to make a new project: "Each of 7 summits in 7 days".

I and Artem Rostovtsev go to Aconcagua for 7 days. Today is the second day. We came to the Plaza de Mulas, height - 4300 m. Health - so-so. But we finally saw our Russian camp on Aconcagua. Perfectly. Super camp. Cheerfully. The neighbors came: Irina Galai, Dasha and the rest…

Today began the adventures of our team. Having collected all things, in the morning we went to the mountains! Friends, what a beauty here! Majestic Andes of all shades of red and brown against the blue sky-stunning scenery!

By lunchtime, we got to Penitentes, checked into the hotel. Our guides Vladimir Kotlyar  and Viktor Ershov led the first acclimatization  trek to the altitude of 3000 m.

The sun is shining bright, and from the mountains blows soft and cool — perfect conditions for walking!

Team members feel great. Now we are having dinner and gaining strength! Tomorrow we will go to   Confluencia camp at a height of 3400 m, where we will meet again with Alex Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev.

  The second part of the project "7 summits in 7 months" begins. Today Alexander Abramov and Artem Rostovtsev bought permits for Aconcagua. Tomorrow is the start of the expedition!

Boris Yegorov, guide of the  7 Summits Club from Patagonia:

Hello dears! This is the guides Boris Yegorov and Sasha Lastochkin. Yesterday we made an attempt to climb to the top of Mount Fitz Roy.  At first everything went well. We came in the dark under the start point to the shoulder.  At first there were steep snow and ice, we're through with it.  But as soon as we came out under the wall, towards us the hurricane blew, we were almost blown from the pass. We wanted to climb, but with such wind and cold it was too much for us. We turned back. We got down without a problem. But everyone is happy, made the most, to turn in time it is great art!