Argentina - Page 17

Vladimir Kotlyar: The team named as "The tactic of trump ten" came and met in Mendoza. We are ready for adventure!

 The permits are obtained, we go to a rental for crampons.

 A group named "Tartar and Larin" also begins an expedition.

 All together they go to Penitentes. Groups will work independently, but cooperate!

Sergey Larin, a guide of the 7 Summis Club:  

The climb was difficult. We were waiting for weather for four days. Then the one-day window has appeared, but it was necessary to begin (the first two days) in difficult weather conditions. In the first day porters refused to start. But as a result, I think, they were satisfied that they managed to reach Nido de Condores. It is good that we have put up earlier a big stationary tent – it has helped out us, because in this place to put tents on such weather is problematic. In day of summit bid some teams turned back, some refused. But the team named “Good, Bad and Angry” has shown an excellent spirit and strength of mind that has allowed to achieve result. Now we already are sitting and we waiting for a helicopter on Plaza de Mulas.

Sergey Larin: …. We climbed on top of Aconcagua …. went down to the Cholera camp. We all are fine. Detailed information - from Plas de Mulas. See you! Sergey Larin.

 Page of Facebook of Vasily Shakhnovsky

 Weather also created great difficulties. Strong wind didn't cease all the time of ascent, frequent and dense snow reduced visibility to several meters, the hard frost added to "pepper" to feelings.

 Nevertheless, in 12 hours the group reached top. The way back took about 2,5 hours. All people exhausted returned to the camp from which began the final storm. After a dinner, hot tea and spending the night in tents, next morning, they begin descent to the base camp. It is possible (if everything develops favorably)  tomorrow, having taken rest in the base camp, they will go down, having finished a route.

In recent days, the storm was raging on the slopes of the highest mountain in South America,  rare  for local conditions. Now the weather forecast give a chance, and we have no time for waiting. Our team under the leadership of Sergey Larin enters  for the decisive attempt to climb Aconcagua…

Sergey Larin, a guide 7 Summits Club:  Our team successfully completed the acclimatization, spending a night on the Plaza Canada 5000 m and  a night on Nido de Condores - 5500m. It should be noted that acclimatization was carried out strictly according to the program approved by the management and supervision of the 7 Summits Club. After returning to Mulas, the weather turned bad. The state of health of all the participants is good. We will wait for the weather window to climb to the summit of Aconcagua.

Olga Rumyantseva, the 7 Summits Club guide: yesterday our group (all members and guides) climbed the summit of Mount Aconcagua. A total of 10 persons has reached  the top.

The group led by Ivan Dusharin, our guides Olga Rumyantseva, Valery Myasoedov and Vladimir Kotlyar has already descended on the Plaza de Mulas. Congratulations!

Hi, Seven Summits! Take the information from the Aconcagua! The team called "Bad, good, evil" successfully conducted acclimatization in the camp Confluencia and at the moment, today, on January 26, makes a climb to the base camp Plaza de Mulas. The weather favors. Mood and feeling of the  team are great. I will send photos from Plaza de Mulas, there must be a connection.

Bye! Sergey Larin.

Hello! This is a guide of the 7 Summits Club Olga Rumyantseva from Argentina, Aconcagua expedition. After acclimatization and two days of rest in Plaza de Mulas, we have climbed to the Nido de Condores at 5400. And we were well, came quickly. All people fill well .... favorable condition ...

 Tomorrow we plan to go up already at six thousand, the day after tomorrow to go to the top. Because it must be a weather window. Bye!

Hello! This is Olga Rumyantseva, expedition guide on Aconcagua. We are here for the second day of successfully doing acclimatization. Yesterday we went to Canada camp and spent the night. Today we went to Nido de Condores camp. The state of health of all the participants is good. The wind is strong here, so it is difficult to speak. We settle in a huge new our tent, which was set up  by Abramov. For that we are very grateful to him! Best regards!

Group of the Leaders club under the guidance of Olga Rumyantseva made the first acclimatization outing  from the camp of Plaza de Mulas ...

From Ludmila Korobeshko:

We conducted a group of leaders headed by Ivan Dusharin and Olga Rumyantseva on Aconcagua, and we run ourselves down in Mendoza, where we hope to drink wine with a new team and Vladimir Kotlyar. And then -  in Moscow.

Mission accomplished: We have set a club tent of the 7 Summits Club at Nido de Condores. 10-12 persons  can gather to drink  mate at 5,400.

Parting in BC Aconcagua. Three of us  go down to Mendoza - to wine and meat. Three go up to the wind and snow.

 Today, our team made a hard way to Plaza de Mulas. There we unexpectedly met Alexander Abramov and Luda Korobeshko. Tomorrow we will rest and prepare for climbing up to camps at 4900 and 5300 for acclimatization.

Hello! This is Olga Rumyantseva from the expedition to Aconcagua. Yesterday we came to the Confluenzia camp and today took a walk in a beautiful valley, to the very beautiful South Face of Aconcagua. Also, we are successfully (miraculously)  passed a medical examination. And we were permitted. Tomorrow we go to the Plaza de Mulas. All people have a good mood, Bye!

The birthday of Alexander Abramov we began to celebrate in the camp Confluencia...

Continued on our way…

Finished in Plaza de Mulas...

Olga Rumyantseva from Argentina. Permits for the second group (Leader’s Club) obtained, we are ready for departure on route...

Olga Rumyantseva with a group on the control at the entrance to the National Park.

Olga Rumyantseva, guide of 7 summits Club: Today, all the participants of the second expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Aconcagua gathered in Mendoza. Exploration of  this remarkable region began, as expected, with meat and Malbec. Unfortunately, tomorrow we will leave this wonderful city and move to Penitentes, where we will begin our journey to Aconcagua.

 Hello! Flag of the 7 Summits Club on the highest point of South America! It was placed on the 14th of January. Unfortunately, not all parties  managed to climb to the top. But the program is not finished. Now Kristina is guided by Valery located at Nido de Condores. Their ascent is scheduled for January 17. We are for them to worry ...

Hello, Seven Summits! Take an information about the first group on Aconcagua. We spent, our group, for two nights on the Nest of the Condor. There was  any condors, of course,  we have not seen it, and today have climbed the camp Colera, an altitude of 6 thousand meters. As practice shows, young people need more time for acclimatization. Unfortunately, it was proved by our youngest participant Christine. She went down with the second guide, Myasoedov Valery, down to the camp Plaza de Mulas. We, the remaining members, climbed to camp Colera. Our summit climb now depends only on wind speed. We will be here waiting for favorable conditions. And Christina with Valery will have a chance to try again, the time they have. Briefly, that is all. Bye! Sergey Larin.

Hi, Seven Summits! Take the information from Aconcagua! Today, our team climbed up at the Canada camp, at altitude 5040 meters. Before that, we spent three nights at the Plaza de Mulas, where committed acclimatization walks around the neighborhood. Tomorrow, we will advancing into the camp 2, "Condor's Nest." All is well!  By! Sergey Larin.

Sergej Larin, 7 Summits Club guide:

Today, January 7 at evening we went up to the base camp Plaza de Mulas. The altitude is 4350 meters. All is OK.

Medical examination at the Confluencia is required - put a mark in the Permit.

Dining at the Confluencia

Body check

Confluencia  - Plaza de Mulas

The expedition began. The permits are obtained. The preparatory process was not boring. Lost baggage, cancellation and changes of flights, etc.

Now all the troubles are behind. Just ahead, up the goal! All according to plan. We went to Penitentes ...

We are Penitentes!

January 3th  - the official start of our expedition to Aconcagua. Coming to Argentina on the eve,  the 7 Summits Club guide Sergey Larin met  other members in the solar and green Mendoza. According to the plan today, they must settle all formalities and go to the beginning of the route. We will wait for messages ....