Asia - Page 18

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov reports from Nepal:

 Namaste from Nepal! Two of our groups continue their way to the foot of Mount Everest: the climbing "Chronic climbers" (goes to Island Peak) and the trekking "Kumari October" (Everest Base Camp). Today our gang-team with jokes got to our next village - Periche. The gorgeous weather favored us, Everest, Lhotse, Ama-Dablam opened, we walk well.

Group guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Andrey Berezin.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste frome Nepal! Our two groups moved from Phakding to Namche Bazaar in a friendly composition today. Today was a colorful day: picturesque flora, many suspension bridges, and the reward: Namche Bazaar, the capital of the Sherpas. Group guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Andrey Berezin.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste! The Himalayan season has begun! Two of our groups: the climbing group "Chronic climbers" (going to Island Peak) and the trekking group "Kumari of October" (Everest Base Camp) arrived in Lukla yesterday and went on the route.  The first night in Phakding, in a beautiful comfortable hotel. A cyclone came to the Himalayas, all afternoon and night it was pouring heavy rain. Today we hope to arrive in Namche Bazaar, the capital of the Sherpas, before the rain. Group guides: Alexander Dorojukov (trekking) and Andrey Berezin (mountaineering).

 The main group of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club climbed to the highest point of the Manaslu massif this morning. Victor Volodin (head), Yana Zharkova, Nikolai Lukin, Nikolai Shipilov and 5 Sherpa guides who accompanied them successfully reached the summit. Yana did it on her birthday, and at the age of 23 she became the record holder of Russia as the youngest climber on the eight-thousandther. We are waiting for a message about the descent to the base camp.

List of Sherpas :

 1: Lakpa Sherpa-Makalu 1 🇳🇵 6:30am

2: Tashi Sherpa-Makalu 1 🇳🇵 6:30am

3: Lakpa Tenje Sherpa-Makalu 1🇳🇵6:30am

4: Ong Dorchi Sherpa-1 🇳🇵6:30am

5: Ngang temba sherpa-Makalu 1🇳🇵6:30am

Manaslu! Another summit! Today at 5.50 in Nepal, another member of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club Ruslan Laukart made a successful ascent on Manaslu. He came out of Camp 3 (6800m).  And by lunchtime he went down to the Base Camp! That's the speed!

The rest of the expedition members are now in the Assault Camp 4 (7400) and are preparing for the ascent tonight! We hold our fists for them! By the way, Yana Zharkova will go on the assault on her birthday. On September 24, she turns 23, and she may become the youngest Russian woman ever to climb the eight-thousandth peak.

Roman Laukart and our Dandy cook at Manaslu Base Camp. Just after the summit.

There is the first member of our group at the summit! Tonight, a member of the 8000 Club expedition Andrey Kazakov ascended to the top of Manaslu WITHOUT additional oxygen! Now Andrey is already in Camp-3. By tradition, we will be able to finally congratulate Andrey on the first eight-thousandth when he goes down to the Base Camp.

The rest of the participants are now in Camp-3. Tonight, part of the team will already storm the summit, and two more participants will make the march to Camp-4 and will prepare for the summit assault tomorrow night.

We wish good luck to the team members!

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on Manaslu, led by Viktor Volodin, started on September 5.  Two weeks of approaches and acclimatization rotations are behind us. And tonight, a group with the intriguing name "Quintessence" goes out to storm the summit.

 The plan:

September 20 - Camp 1

September 21 - Camp 2

September 22 - Camp 3

September 23 - Camp 4

September 24 - assault on the summit of Manaslu 8156m.

 Let's wish the participants good luck!!!

By the way, among them is Yana Zharkova, who may become the youngest Russian woman to ever climb the eight-thousandth peak!

Photos from a professional photographer

Austin Schmitz (USA)

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports from Nepal:

News from the group "Quintessence". Today, September 17th is a wonderful day, a day of rest combined with puja. Puja is a rite of worship of the gods, where a lama reads prayers, consecrates equipment, food and drink. Many participants of other expeditions gathered. And, characteristically, it rained before and after the prayer, and the sun shone during the prayer. All the participants of the expeditions took part in this ceremony. Everything went great. A string with a knot and a white scarf were tied around everyone's neck.

See also. 

 Photos from a professional photographer Austin Schmitz (USA)

News from the slopes of Manaslu from Viktor Volodin, by satellite: We made an acclimatization rotation, went to the third camp and spent some time there. Now we have gone down to the second camp, we spend the night here and tomorrow we go down to the Manaslu Base Camp.  We'll send photos from there tomorrow. The weather is good, sunny (even a little burned), everyone feels great and is in a wonderful mood.

The head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Viktor Volodin by satellite phone from the slopes of Manaslu:  Immediate plans. From the second camp we go up to 7000m.  Or, if possible, higher.  We return to Camp 2, spend the night and go down to the base camp. Everyone feels great and is in a good mood. The weather is good.

 Photos from professional photographer Austin Schmitz (USA)

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports from Nepal:

Today, the Quintessence group goes to the second rotation: the First camp, the Second camp with an overnight stay. We will try to climb above Camp-2 for acclimatization and then go down to the base camp. Big greetings to everyone!

 Breaking news from Manaslu. Viktor Volodin is in touch via satellite. The group reached Camp 1 (5700m) The condition of the route is good. The camp is well equipped, its own large tent-dining room, comfortable accommodation of participants. The weather is good, light snow. Everyone is feeling great and in a good mood. Tomorrow, according to the plan, the climb to Camp 2, communication is also via satellite.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Viktor Volodin sends from Nepal:

Hello everyone!  Information from Manaslu Base Camp. The weather has finally recovered today. In the morning, the sun's rays began to gently awaken the whole camp, people began to climb out of the tents and enjoyed the sun's rays. Our group had a rotation scheduled for today before the first camp.  We slowly crossed the five thousandth milestone and then reached the height of Elbrus. Then there was a descent to the Base Camp.  Everyone feels good, tomorrow we rest.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports from Nepal:

News from the Manaslu expedition. The team reached the base camp. The weather is good, but a little rainy.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports from Nepal:

A group of climbers on Manaslu has appropriated a name "Quintessence" and flew to the village with the romantic name Samagaon.  The mood is fighting, we are waiting for another participant who should arrive tomorrow.

Colleagues, friends, all the formalities have been completed and permits for Mount Manaslu have been obtained. Departure tomorrow. The group is almost fully prepared for departure to Samagaon, everyone is cheerful. Your Victor Volodin.

For the first time in history, a chess tournament for climbers will be held in the spring of 2024 on Mount Everest. According to the organizers, the main part of the tournament will begin at the foot of the mountain (base camp), and its final will be at an altitude of about 8000 meters (South Col camp), without the use of additional oxygen. The prize fund will amount to 14 million rubles (app. 170000 USD), the winner of the competition, in addition to the cash prize, will have the opportunity to celebrate his victory on the summit of Mount Everest.

"This is the first tournament for climbers, which will demonstrate physical endurance and demonstrate the intellectual capabilities of the brain in extreme conditions.  The fourth and most dangerous Everest camp is located at an altitude of 8000 meters, and here the finalists will hold a match without access to additional oxygen. To maintain clarity of thought in intellectual struggle in such conditions, perhaps, will be the main challenge for the finalists of the Everchess tournament," commented the President of the 7 Summits Club, 12 times Everest summiter Alexander Abramov on the specifics of the event.  The initiator of the tournament was the summiter of Everest2023, the head of the company "Security Code" Andrey Golov.

Andrey Golov and Alexander Abramov after Everest summit

Applications for participation in the tournament will start in September 2023, and all participants will be strictly selected for health and climbing experience.

The cost of participation is 7,000,000 rubles.

The prize fund is 14,000,000 rubles.

Sponsor of the project “7 Summits Club" and “International HAC Federation".

Vladimir Belkovich climbed to the top of Lhotse accompanied by sherpa Dava. Thus, Vladimir, within the framework of the 8000 Club programs, did a "double" - in one season he climbed two eight-thousand-meter Makalu and Lhotse.  After his return to Kathmandu, our season can be considered over. And completed successfully!

 On May 21, 2023, an unprecedented event for Russian mountaineering took place: "Snow Leopard", climber Vitaly Lazo became the first Russian to use skis to descend from the highest point of the planet. He started from a height of 8845 meters, which is only three meters below the top.

The ascent, organized by the 7 Summits Club, was made by Vitaly together with the Snow Leopard Anton Pugovkin, his friend of the Freeride in the Death Zone project (climbers storm the highest mountains of the planet, followed by skiing). Everest became the fifth eight-thousandther.

The team climbed on the summit with a special mission, which you can learn about by watching the documentary "Oxygen 2. Everest", which has been shooting for more than three months in partnership with Gazprom-Media Holding and its companies: Central Partnership and Red Media.

On the descent, Vitaly Lazo needed medical help, he was evacuated from Camp 2 to a hospital in Kathmandu. Anton Pugovkin feels well.

⠀Vitaly Lazo (VK): Hello everyone!  Our latest news is on May 22, I was evacuated from a height of 6500 meters to Kathmandu. Now I am in the hospital with a diagnosis of "cerebral edema" ... I am much better... I am on the mend, I will be discharged in a day and on the 26th, in the morning, I already plan to be in Moscow…

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the 8000 Club team "We are just tourists"! On May 19, our friendly team ascended to the highest point of the planet — the summit of Mount Everest!!!!

This ascent was not easy for all of us. A very difficult and harsh mountain. On the day of the ascent, the wind reached 40-45 km / h, but none of the participants turned around, everyone reached their dream! I had to struggle with the weather conditions and with myself.

We were very tired, we gave it our all. After the mountain, the last participants returned to the second camp at 6400 only by 10 pm.

We will write more detailed news later. Now we are already at the base camp, celebrating the ascent. Our Sherpas have prepared a delicious cake, we communicate, share our impressions, received certificates and medals for our ascent!

Congratulations to Alexander Abramov on his twelfth ascent to the highest peak of the planet! And also with the successful leadership of the group with one hundred percent summits!   This time, most of the ascent took place during daylight hours and the filming turned out to be more than usual. Watch and listen…