Asia - Page 51

Today, a group of 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Victor Bobok successfully overcame the Cho La Pass, leading from the valley Gokio in the Khumbu valley itself. For overnight they stopped at a lodge in the village of Lobuche. For tomorrow is scheduled early exit, to climb Kala Patar, then to reach a place of base camp of Mount Everest and still have time to get down lower than Lobuche. All members of trip feel very good. And in the morning, and in the afternoon and in the evening. Especially at evening party. The fact is that six of seven members of the expedition play guitar quite well.

Climbing Himalayan mountains in the Fall can be risky at best. Each day is shorter, it is progressively colder and winter looms. So every summit, especially Everest, is highly valued by the climbers. This year, Fall 2010, we saw two summit successes of very different types.

First up is the only Fall Everest summit since the Fall of 2008. Eric Larsen and his small Sherpa team summited Everest at around 6:35 AM local time on October 15th. They broke trail and fixed their own ropes on the way to the top. Eric reported in an emotional audio post from the summit that they summited . He later reported they threaded the needle of a tiny weather window descending in white-out conditions to the South Col. He promised more details upon return to Base Camp.

His outfitter, Himalayan Trailbalzer listed the Sherpa team as: Mr. Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Temba Sherpa, Mr. Nima Dorje Tamang, Nima Dorje Tamang, Dawa Gelzen Sherpa, Pasang Dawa Sherpa and Da Tenji Sherpa.

There had been other teams on both the north and south but all abandoned plans throughout the season. Dangerous snow conditions were the culprit on the north side and running out of time was cited on the south. But Eric, wanting to complete a year long goal to ski to both poles and summit Everest on behalf of his "Save the Poles" mission persevered. Eric's stated goal:

"This expedition will tell the story of these remote places so we can better understand how our actions affect the poles and ultimately the planet," Larsen says. "We all need to be reminded that we must act now to stop global warming."

Please visit his website for more details. Congratulations Eric!

Another impressive summit was the Soldiers to the Summit team lead by Everest summiter and blind climber Eric Weihenmayer. They put 8 soldiers on the summit of Lobuche, 20,075′, which is often used for acclimatization for Everest climbs. From their site, Soldiers to the Summit: The goal of the Expedition and World TEAM Sports is to demonstrate to everyone that great things can be achieved no matter how high the obstacles.

From the team website:

We did it! On October 13th, eight of our injured soldiers reached the 20,075-foot summit of Lobuche. These men and women overcame their injuries, gave it their all, and achieved a great victory—not only for themselves but for other veterans, disabled people, and all of our sponsors.

We set out from high camp at 17,000 feet in two teams. The first team—consisting of Brad Bull, Steve Baskis, Sherman Bull, myself, Jeff Evans, Kami Tenzing, Ashley Crandall, Michael Brown, Rex Pemberton, and Didrik Johnck—left at 1:15 AM; Ashley felt the altitude and turned back. The second team—Charley Mace, Matt Nyman, Matt Murray Luis Benitez, Ike Isaacson, Dan Sidles, Kevin Cherilla, Chris Morris, Nico Moroulis, Chad Jukes, Chad Butrick, Brian Mockenhaupt—left camp at 3 AM. Catherine Raggazino (Rizzo) also felt the altitude and stayed at camp and Cody Miranda elected to stay with her.

Congratulations to all these climbers. See the previous report on their expedition.

The fall season is not over with climbs on Pumori, Ama Dablam and a few other Himalayas mountains underway.

Climb On!

Alan

Arnette is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimer's Advocate. He is climbing the 7 Summits starting with Mt. Vinson in November 2010 to raise $1 million for Alzheimer's research. You can read more on his site.

7 Summits Club and our subsidiary Nepalese company 7Summits Adventures (director Mingma Gela) organizes an international climbing expedition on Cho Oyu. Project Manager is 7 Summits Club guide Igor Svergun, who gathered to take part in the ascent climbers from Ukraine and Russia. This action is called also the international expedition "Ukraine-Himalaya-2010". September 4th all Ukrainian participants departed from the airport "Borispol" (Kiev) in Kathmandu, where they were waiting for Russian colleagues.

The expedition consists of experienced climbers, that were as members in the spring expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010 (Sergey Boublik, Andrey Kiiko, Alexander Zakolodny), and climbers who will be first time to climb 8000m. The basis of the expedition are kharkovites. The leader – an experienced Himalayan climbers, master of sports of international class, Igor Svergun.

Ukrainian climbers consider climbing Cho Oyu as the initial phase of the multi-year program of conquering all the highest peaks of the world, 14 eight-thousanders . This "battle test" the new team of high-altitude climbers, working out tactics and operating mode of Himalayan experience.

Success and weather!

International expedition "Ukraine-Himalaya-2010":

Igor Svergun (Kharkov) - expedition leader

1. Kiiko Andrew (Kharkiv)

2. Zakolodny Aleksanndr (Kharkiv)

3. Kashaev Badawi (Kharkiv)

4. Boublik Sergey (Sumy)

5. Chistovsky Gennady (Sumy)

6. Rodiontsev Andrew (Kiev)

7. Samarsky Tim (Zaporozhye)

8. Sanzharevsky Igor (Zaporozhye)

9. Fedorov Evgeny (Moscow)

10. Koveshnikov Pavel (Moscow)

11. Matusova Natalia (Moscow)

12. Bige Dmitry (Moscow)

The organizer of the expedition - the Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing Kharkiv region (President, MSMK Gennady Kopeika, vice president, ZMS, ZTU Sergei Bershov).

Sponsorships - OOO Stalkonstruktsia "(Kharkov, SM Evel).

Information support - Federation of alpinism and rock climbing of Ukraine (President ZTU, MC V. Simonenko)

Igor Svergun

Mingma at the top ofr Cho Oyu (on the right)

Fresh doubt has been cast on the record of a Korean climber, who was hailed in April as the first woman to climb the world's 14 highest peaks.

Oh Eun-sun "probably failed" to reach the top of the world's third-highest peak, Kangchenjunga, the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) judged on Thursday.

Top Himalayan record keeper Elizabeth Hawley is investigating the KAF ruling.

If she decides to list the 2009 ascent as "unrecognised", the record will pass to Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban.

Ms Oh climbed Annapurna, the last of her 14 mountains above 8,000m, on 27 April. Ms Pasaban completed the list by scaling Shisha Pangma just under three weeks later, on 17 May.

Ms Oh responded to the Korean Alpine Federation's verdict - issued at a meeting of seven local climbers who have scaled the 8,586m mountain - by describing it as "a unilateral opinion".

"All participants were climbers who had doubts about my achievement from the beginning, so their conclusion must have been already set," she said in an interview with MBC television, quoted by the AFP news agency.

Miss Hawley, keeper of the authoritative Himalayan Database, told the BBC in June it was looking "unlikely" that Ms Oh summited Kangchenjunga.

This came after one of the three sherpas who accompanied her on the ascent of Kangchenjunga said she stopped 150m below the summit, in high winds.

The sherpa, Nurbu, told Miss Hawley he was leading the group when the others waved at him to come down.

Another sherpa, Dawa Wangchuk, has already stated publicly that the group did reach the summit.

"I'm sure she's not lying. She just believed her guide, Dawa Wangchuk. She had great confidence in him," Miss Hawley told the BBC.

Jin Park, a spokesman for Ms Oh's sponsors, the Korean outdoor clothing firm Blackyak, said Dawa Wangchuk had climbed Kangchenjunga four times.

"So I think there is no possibility for confusion about the summit," he said.
Evidence 'piling up'

Doubts have been circulating about Ms Oh's ascent of Kangchenjunga for months.

Experts say there is no convincing picture of Ms Oh on the summit, and have questioned whether she could have finished the last 200m or so of the climb, when clouds obscured the view from below, in the time available to her.
Continue reading the main story
 
Is Oh Eun-Sun a record-breaker?

A member of the next team to reach the peak of Kangchenjunga, in May 2009, the Norwegian climber Jon Gangdal, says he found Ms Oh's Korean flag weighed down by stones, some 50m or 60m below the summit.

At present, the ascent is listed as "disputed" in Miss Hawley's Himalayan Database. In June she said it seemed likely to remain that way, even though evidence was "piling up" against her.

Questions about Miss Oh's ascent of Kangchenjunga first arose in Korea itself just weeks after she claimed to have reached the summit. Climbers linked to a rival woman climber Go Mi-Young (who died in a climbing accident in July 2009) were particularly sceptical.

Korean Alpine Federation secretary general Lee Eui-Jae said participants in Thursday's meeting all shared the view that Miss Oh's photographs on Kangchenjunga did not "seem to match the actual landscape".

"They also agreed that Oh's previous explanations on the process of her ascent to Kangchenjunga are unreliable," he told AFP.

Meanwhile, Eberhard Jurgalski, from the website 8000-ers.com, points out that most climbers who want recognition for their ascents either take conclusive summit photographs or have eyewitnesses.

He says he has seen convincing photographs of Miss Oh on the summit of only eight of the 14.

"If someone is collecting peaks and wants to be accepted as the first woman to have climbed all 14 8,000ers, she should be able to give more evidence of her climbs," he says.

"The whole attitude of people who want to be accepted as having done exceptional things must change."

By Joanna Jolly and Stephen Mulvey BBC News

Charlie Wittmack plans a new slant on climbing Everest, by completing a triathlon that is being publicized as the possibly the toughest human endurance event yet conceived.

The 33-year-old practising lawyer from Iowa, who is also involved with the Department of Global Health at Des Moines University, starts in the UK with a 275-mile swim down the Thames to the sea and then across the English Channel to France.

From there he is planning to cycle 9,000 miles across Europe and Asia to reach the Bay of Bengal, his projected route taking in Ukraine, Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrghyzstan and China.

He will then run c950 miles from sea level up to the Nepalese Himalaya, where he hopes to finish his odyssey on the summit of Everest.

Wittmack’s journey through 12 countries is planned to take 11 months, and is, inevitably, being documented by a film crew.

This is no hair-brained project from an inexperienced adventurer. For a start, Wittmack has already climbed Everest. In 2003 he reached the summit with a Sherpa companion in arduous conditions on their third attempt. His success on the world's highest peak came after seven years of ascents on well-known major summits around the globe.

He's also trekked across East Africa, sailed the Indian Ocean in a handmade boat, and made a c5,000-mile cycle ride across the United States.

The English Channel remains his bête noire. In early 2008 he was placed first in the 32nd Annual Swim around Key West, a notoriously difficult marathon ocean race. However, during August that year, 15 miles into his attempt on the Channel, he was pulled out hypothermic and unconscious.

The World Tri, as the project is billed, is also attempting to raise money for education and global health. But not for the Triathlon itself, which is being totally financed by Wittmack and his wife Cate, who is a writer focused on maternal health and childhood education.

Keeping to schedule is important. It's difficult to get permission to swim the Channel and his pre-booked launch date is the 2nd August.

Wittmack also needs to reach China's border with Kyrghyzstan by the end of October, in order to allow enough time to cross the Tibetan Plateau to India before winter sets in.

But if all goes to plan he should be at Everest Base Camp before May 2011, in order to make an attempt on the summit.

Already, Wittmack has had to deal with a minor setback. Eight days into his swim down the Thames, he inadvertently took a small sip of water, spent that night being violently ill, and ended up having his first experience of the National Health System in a Maidenhead hospital.

He recovered swiftly and is currently around half way through the swim.

By Lindsay Griffin

Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal

The 2010 Spring Mountaineering season from Nepal side has been very successful. My son, Dawa Steven Sherpa, Leader of Eco Everest Expedition 2010 and his team members returned to Kathmandu at the end of May safely and in good health.

Total Number of Climbers on Mt. Everest

This Spring 2010 season we saw a slightly lower number of expeditions attempting Mt. Everest. On the Nepal side 157 foreign climbers and 190 High Altitude Sherpa climbed Mt. Everest. Though CTMA has not been able to provide us exact numbers, during this same season I predict the total number of climbers on the Tibet side to be around 165.

The latest information from the office of Ms. Elizabeth Hawley, chronicler of all Expeditions in Nepal, gives some very interesting facts. Between 1953 and 2009, the total number of ascents was 4557 by 3163 individuals (some having summited more than once).

Adding this year’s spring total of 513 ascents, of which 268 are new summiteers and the rest are repeat summiteers. In summary, the total number of ascent until today is 5070. Whereas, the actual number of persons having summited Mt. Everest is 3431 till date.

Eco Everest Expedition 2010

In 2008, Eco Everest Expedition team brought down 965 kilos of garbage, including 75 kilos of human waste from above base camp. Similarly in 2009 Eco Everest Expedition brought down 6000 kilos of garbage under the “Cash for Trash” program which excluded 115 kilos of human waste produced during the expedition. The same year wreckage of an Italian Army helicopter was also recovered from the edge of the Khumbu Icefall (5486m). The helicopter had crashed between Camp I and Camp II (approx. 6200m) on Mt. Everest during the Italian Everest Expedition in 1973. The Eco Everest Expedition team brought down 700 kilos of wreckage of the helicopter. Since 2008 until today Eco Everest Expedition brought down more than 12,000 kilos of old garbage and more than 300 kilos of human waste produced by Eco Everest Expedition from Mt. Everest for proper disposal. The main sponsor of the garbage collection for 2008 and 2009 was Asian Trekking and for 2010 were Asian Trekking, Reinhold Messner, The North Face and The Alpine Convention.

At the same function Honorable Minister for Tourism and Civil Aviation Mr. Sarat Singh Bhandari presented the Tenzing-Hillary Award to Ms. Junko Tabei (the first woman to summit Mt. Everest) for her support in developing mountain tourism. Similarly the national and international summiteers of Mt. Everest in 2010 were honored with medals regarding them as Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal Tourism Year 2011.

The 16th SAARC summit recently held in Thimpu, Bhutan has endorsed Nepals’ proposal to appoint Apa Sherpa as SAARC Goodwill Ambassador for Climate Change for two consecutive years. On a program organized on 31st May 2010 he was handed over the certificate of SAARC Goodwill Ambassador by the Deputy Prime Minister of Nepal, Sujata Koirala.

Free Entry Visa for Nepal to Mt. Everest Summiteers:

On the eventful day of Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest), Minister of Tourism and Civil Aviation Mr. Sarat Singh Bhandari declared to provide free visas for Nepal to Mt. Everest Summiteers. He also said that the Mt. Everest Day will be celebrated in all of the Nepalese Embassies abroad from 2011.

The event was organized by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountain Association (NMA), Nepal Toursm Board, Civic Society of Kaski , Myagdi,Baglung and Parbat District. The Honorable Minister for Tourism and Civil Aviation, Mr. Sarat Singh Bhandari was Chief Guest. The Guest of Honour was the renowned Austrian mountaineer Kurt Diemberger, the first summiteer of Mt. Dhaulagiri and the only remaining person alive to make first ascents on two 8,000 meter peaks.

Also present at the event were representatives from various organizations and many veteran mountaineers like renowned Climber Ang Rita Sherpa, Serap Jangbu Sherpa, Kuniko Yagihara- climbing leader of two successful Dhaulagiri Expedition on 1978 and 1982, and leader of Yeti Research Expedition around Dhaulagiri.

Groups and individuals from Pokhara as well as from outside Pokhara performed presented cultural performances. During the programme, the Government of Nepal and the Civic Society felicitated Kurt Diemberger and other mountaineers who were present. At the function, Kurt Diemberger shared his climbing experiences and his visits to Nepal.

Similarly, Golden Jubilee of the first ascent of Mt. Dhaulagiri was celebrated with much enthusiasm at Beni (Myagdi District), Baglung (Baglung District), and Kushma (Parbat District) on the 14th of May 2010. The events at Pokhara, Beni, Baglung, Kushma were a tremendous success in showing the concern towards the mountains and promotion of mountain tourism in Nepal.

50% Reduction on Mt. Dhaulagiri Royalty Fee:

On the occasion of Mt. Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee, the Government of Nepal has decided to reduce the royalty of Mt. Dhaulagiri by 50% as well as to provide free entry visa to Nepal for Mt. Everest and Mt. Dhaulagiri summiteers for 2010 and 2011.

Beat the GLOF Action Run and Save the Khumbu Festival 2010:

On 4 June 2010, Beat the GLOF Action Run and Save the Himalayas-Khumbu Festival was organized for the second consecutive year in Khumjung Village in the Khumbu region. The one day event started off at 7 am with Beat the GLOF Action Run.

112 runners, out of which 79 were males and 33 were females, participated in the Action Run. The run route started from Khumjung (3790m) and passed through Kyangjuma (3550) –Namche (3440m)-Phurte (3390m) -Thamo (3842m) - back to Phurte (3820m) – Syangboche (3720m) – Khunde (3840m) and ended back in Khumjung (3790).

The first male runner Karma Sarki Sherpa completed the run route (16 kilometers) in 1 hr 59 minutes and 10 seconds whereas the first female runner Ang Phuti Sherpa completed this distance in 2 hrs 34 minutes and 45 seconds. Ten first male and female runners were awarded cash prizes at the Khumbu Festival.

Locals from Khumjung, Khunde, Phortse, Pangboche, Thame and Namche had participated in the festival which showcased traditional Sherpa culture. The various villages partook in the Sherpa dance exhibition. Students from Khumjung School presented a Drama highlighting the issues of climate change. The drama was titled “Message from the Doctor.” Youth groups performed songs and dances and entertained the audience. National and international dignitaries, media and press trekked up to participate and cover the event.

The event was organized by iDEAS in collaboration with Sherwi Yondhen Tshokpa (Sherpa Students Network). The event was sponsored by The North Face, Asian Trekking and Nepal Mountaineering Association. Agni Air and Tara Air provided complimentary air tickets to the participants and media personnel flying from Kathmandu. Himalayan Eco Resorts, Paradise Lodge and Hotel Camp de base provided complimentary lodging and meals to the dignitaries and members of the media and press. The event was supported by Sagarmatha National Park Buffer Zone Management Committee, Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, Nepal Tourism Board, Nepal Tourism Year 2011, WWF Nepal and Khunde Hospital.

This Event which will take place annually in the month of June aims to draw the attention towards the risks of potential GLOFs in the area. I welcome all our friends to come and support us by participating in this event.

Tibet Expedition Spring 2010 Summary:

The 2010 Spring Mountaineering season has been very eventful as well as filled with tragedy and sorrow.

I am saddened to report that there were four fatalities [3 who were on 'expeditions'] on North side of Mt. Everest this season. Among them was our Hungarian friend Laszlo Varkony climbing with Hungarian Everest Expedition 2010.

Please join me in praying for eternal peace for the departed and for strength to the bereaved families.

New Regulation on Tibet Expedition from Autumn 2010:

“In order to promote the organization of expedition, improve team quality and avoid waster of resources, China Tibet Mountaineering Association has implemented some additional provisions for future permit applications, size and reception.

Now the expedition must apply the climbing permits in one month before. If the climbers required applying visas in their own country, they must mention in one month before. As per this new regulation the size of the team for three major peaks (Mt. Qomolangma, Cho-oyu and Shishapangma) must be above 5 pax (can contain Nepalese staff) and the ratio for clients with Nepalese staff should be 6:4. The age bar for the climbers has been limited between 18 – 60 years and if the climbers’ age is not within this provision, must provide proof of special health-related applications.”

Lastly, it is my pleasure to keep you all up to date as to our activities here in the Himalaya. If you have any questions please let me know. I thank you for your support in the past and look forward to our cooperation in the future.

Best Wishes,

Ang Tshering Sherpa

Chairman

Asian Trekking

The famous Russian collector of eight-thousanders, Honored Master of Sports, Sergey Bogomolov visited office 7 Summits Club. In outcome of the spring expedition on Annapurna he can say simply: he is happy. Finally, the mountain let him climbed with the fourth attempt. They just did everything correctly, just vast experience allows to calculate the forces right, patiently waiting, go by own speed, do not pay attention to others. Relations in the international expedition were normal, that is businesslike and with friendship. The formal leader was Peter Pustelnik, with Kinga Baranovska, Slovak Peter Hamor, Joao Garcia (Portugal), Horia Calibesanu (Romania). Direct partner of Sergey was famous Eugene Winogradsky from Yekaterinburg.

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Sergey gave us 25 photos with ascents of Pumori and Annapurna for posting on the site 14-8000.

See the gallery ....

To become the first Russian to have risen to all 14 eight-thouthanders, Bogomolov should climb yet one another mountain. But this mountain - it is the formidable K2, probably the most capricious and unpredictable mountain in the world.

In order to successfully go to K2, Sergey Bogomolov mind to make a big project and build a strong company of climbers. The main option at the moment - the ascent from the north, from the Chinese side. Arriving by jeeps from Alma-Ata and further with camels caravan. The route from the north to K2 is in general easier and (more importantly) safer than from the south. However, the difficulties of organizing caravan, supply of expedition, require much more effort than in the south. And groups of climbers do not appear here each year.

In a small team it will be very hard, so Sergei Bogomolov plans to build a strong and friendly international team, with Russian-speaking core. We are ready to help him in this, especially because Bogomolov has been a guide of groups of 7 Summits Club. And we hope that our cooperation will continue in the future...

With Miss Oh

With Juanito Oirazabal

The summit !

May, 13 a group of climbers from Club 7 Summits climbed on Ama Dablam. Now they go down, everything is OK. It was Pavel Laktyushin, Dmitriy Nikitin, Vladimir Khitrikov (our guide) and two Sherpa climbers.

In Namche Bazaar, we purchase a product, and some equipment. Then we noted the so-called "garbage deposit". Tomorrow at 8 am we leave in Pangboche.

Everything is OK. Vladimir Khitrikov

Today Annapurna relented and took a large group of climbers have long dreamed of meeting with this summit. First of all, it should be noted the ascent of Koreans Oh Eun Sun, who went in history as the first woman who ascended to all 14 eight-thousanders. Reporting on its landmark ascent was on Korean television.

Except Koreans and her team (5 Sherpas + 2 cameramen), the peaks reached by Romanians Horia Colibasanu, then a team of Peter Pustelnik, King Baranovskaya (Poland) and Peter Hamor (Slovakia). Thus, Peter Pustelnik also completed a program of 14 eight-thousanders. Later, our honored, great climber Sergey Bogomolov and Eugene Vinogradskii reached the top. Both, close friends of the club 7 Summits, traveled with us and worked as guides with our groups. We hope that the descent of the company's to base camp will take place without incident. Then we could raise a glass for them.

Today, a guide and leader of our expedition to fabulous Ama Dablam Vladimir Khitrikov fly from Kiev to Kathmandu. For two days he will be devoted to the preparation of equipment, products and formalities before the arrivals of main group. April 26 Pavel Laktyushkin should arrive in Kathmandu. He is one of the most active members of the 7 Summits Club. With our Club he has already traveled to the following programs: Kilimanjaro, Ecuador, Mont Blanc, Elbrus, Aconcagua. And now – to Ama-Dablam. A day later, on April 27 Ilya Kovalev and Dmitry Nikitin arrive to join the team.

Vladimir Khitrikov (55) is one of most experienced sport mountaineers of ex-USSR. He was a member of great expedition Lhotse South Face 1990.

 Morning flight to Lukla. After landing, we started up. By lunchtime, we came to the village of Phakding. Everything is good: the weather, and mood. After dinner the group went to acclimatize to the local monastery, 600 years old. We met local monks and beat drums.

Island Peak expedition: 13 members, 2 leaders (Olga Rumiantseva and Sergei Timofeev).

Sergei Timofeev (52) from Yekaterinbourg is a well-known Russian climber, many-times Champion of Russia. He knows Nepal perfectly, has climbed Everest and three separate peaks of Lhotse.

China and Nepal have agreed a solution to a long-running disagreement over the height of Mount Everest.

They agreed that the world's highest mountain - which traverses the border of the two countries - should be recognised as being 8,848m tall.

The Chinese previously argued it should be measured by its rock height. Nepal said it should be measured by its snow height - this is four metres higher.

During talks in Nepal's capital Kathmandu, China accepted that claim.

This means the official overall height of Everest is now designated as 8,848m. Nepal also recognises China's claim that the rock height of Everest is 8,844m.

Correspondents say that while thousands of people have climbed the mountain since the first ascent in 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, its exact height has been disputed ever since the first measurement was made in 1856.

The broadly-accepted height of 8,848m was first recorded by an Indian survey in 1955. It measured the mountain's snow cap, rather than the rock beneath it.

But geologists say that the estimates of both countries over the height of Mount Everest could be wrong.

They say that the mountain is becoming higher as India is gradually pushed beneath China and Nepal because of shifting continental plates.

In May 1999 an American team used GPS technology to record a height of 8,850m - a figure that is now used by the US National Geographic Society - although it has not been officially accepted by Nepal.

BBC News

While the main attention is focused on Annapurna, where women are arguing for the right to be the first on all 14 eightthousanders. Meanwhile, the number of so-called "challenges" in the first place the other giant peak - Makalu. Two teams are planning to make new routes, and the German Luis Stitzinger intends to perform the first ever ski descent from the summit.

41-year-old Stitzinger, in recent years, got a taste for the establishment of outstanding records. He has already made descents on three eight-thousanders, set speed records on the Polish route on Aconcagua, etc. .. His climbing partner is his girtl-friend Alix von Melle, as well a guide, as well an extreme skier. However, on Makalu Luis will skiing alone, too severe would be descent.

Route for ski descent

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From ExplorersWeb

Americans Chris Warner and Marty Schmidt plan to make waves on a lonelier 8000er: Makalu.

“Marty Schmidt and I are headed to the south side of Makalu, leaving this coming week,” Chris Warner wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.”

Route details

“Our planned route lies between the SW Ridge (opened by Czechs in 1976) and the SE Ridge (Japanese climb in 1970),” expedition website SharedSummits reported. “The route will ascend snow gullies and rock bands, up the 7000 foot face to Makalu SE (7803 meters). Here it joins with the Czech and Japanese routes along the SE ridge, knife-edged and gendarme guarded all the way until the summit.”

“At 8300 meters, a 100 meter rock band blocks the route, making for an extremely technical summit day,” SharedSummits added. The climbers expect to find snow slopes to 60 degrees, ice to 85 degrees and rock sections to 5.7.

Himalaya veterans

Both climbers are highly experienced mountaineers: In addition to new routes on Shivling and winter Ama Dablam, expedition leader Chris Warner has been on 13 expeditions to 8000ers, reaching the summit of Everest (guiding three times), K2, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma (solo south side) and Cho Oyu, plus attempts on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak.

A regular on Denali and Aconcagua; Marty is a seasoned high mountaineering guide and a four-time Cho Oyu summiteer (including a speed ascent and a ski descent), who also topped-out Kangchenjunga and attempted K2 from both sides.

“Marty Schmidt and I are headed to the south side of Makalu, leaving this coming week,” Chris Warner wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are hoping to climb a new route to the summit of Makalu SE (7803 meters) and then follow the SE Ridge to the (main) summit.”

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From Everestnews.com

Will Cross

Will Cross departs shortly for Makalu as part of his Giant Mountain Challenge; a quest to climb six of the highest peaks in the world. All are located in the Himalaya and all are above 8000m. The purpose of this challenge is to demonstrate that one can lead an extraordinary life with diabetes, an incurable condition and a global pandemic. So far, Cross has topped out on Everest, Lhotse and Cho Oyu. He has had diabetes for over thirty years.

Novo Nordisk continues to be the primary corporate partner of this endeavor. Wild Things is the exclusive pack and gear provider. Dermatone is the exclusive sun care protection. HealthiFeet and Adventure Medical Kits have also stepped forward to support the Giant Mountain Challenge.

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March 27, Ukrainian National expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010" started from Kiev. The expedition includes 10 climbers, 2 coaches, a doctor. Expedition leader - Valentin Simonenko. The purpose of the expedition - climbing Makalu (8463 m), the fifth summit of the world, by a new route along the South-West Face. This expedition is dedicated to the memory of the famous Ukrainian climber Vladislav Terzyul, who climbed all the Eight-thousanders. He died on the descent is from Makalu, the latest in his list of 14.

The team includes athletes from different regions of the country:

1. Yuri Kruglov - team captain

2. Sergei Pugachev (Gorlovka)

3. Sergei Boublik (Sumy)

4. Maxim Perevalov (Odessa)

5. Vladimir Klebansky (Odessa)

6. Andrew Kiyko (Kharkiv)

7. Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkiv)

8. Paul Kirichek (Kiev)

9. Dmitry Venslavovsky (Vinnitsa)

10. Igor Storozhenko (Donetsk)

Head Coach - Mstislav Gorbenko, the second coach - Michael Zagirnyak, organizer and leader of the expedition, Valentin Simonenko.

Winter Training on Elbrus

Expedition will last 2 months. Upon arrival in Nepal athletes decide to organizational matters, then 8 days walk will reach the base camp .. May 27 athletes plan to return to Ukraine.

The expedition can be monitored at blogging site leader and team captain Yuri Kruglov: kruglov.biz

From the left: Michael Zagirnyak, Yuri Kruglov, Mstislav Gorbenko

It has been a very busy few months for me and my family. In a recent development on the dispute of Nepal Mountaineering Association, the Government of Nepal has posted me once again as the President of NMA until such time that another election can be held and the position passed on. The Ministers' Cabinet of the Government of Nepal held a special meeting at Kala Patthar Plateau (5,542 m) on December 4th near Mt. Everest Base Camp, to raise awareness about the impact of Climate Change on Nepal. Nepalese Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal and 23 other ministers attended the meeting, where a 10 point ‘Declaration’ was released which calls for concerted actions to minimize adverse effects of climate change in the Himalayan region

The meeting held at such a high altitude was substantial in drawing attention to the dangers of climate change and global warming on the Himalayas, days before UN negotiations on climate change in Copenhagen. This meeting gained worldwide media coverage and it showed the commitment of the Nepalese Government towards the burning issues of Climate Change and the mountain environment.

Following this, Summiteers Summit to Save the Himalayas was organized by the Government of Nepal in Copenhagen to mark the International Mountain Day on December 11, 2009. Led by honorable Minister for Forestry and Soil conservation, Mr. Deepak Bohora, this rally was an accompanying event in the 15th session of UNFCCC conference. The objective of this program was to draw attention of international community towards the Himalayas and the impacts of Climate Change on the Himalayas so that the important role of the Himalaya mountain region in regulating global climate regime can be well recognized by all.
Government ministers and mountaineers from Nepal in Copenhagen (image: Hank Hwang, Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association)

This event was a humble request to the world community to pay greater attention to the challenges of climate change in the mountains and to value their unique contribution to the global ecology. Also please visit :
http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/video/2009/dec/10/copenhagen-sherpa-himalayas

On behalf of the Government of Nepal, as President of Nepal Mountaineering Association and Union of Asian Alpine Association, I had the great pleasure to co-ordinate the gathering of International Mountaineers from all over the world in Copenhagen for this event. A large number of people (estimated between 900-1200 by the Copenhagen police), including 35 renowned Nepalese Mt.Everest summiteers, many international Mt.Everest and 8,000 m peaks summiteers, celebrities of International repute, Nepalese living abroad and supporters from all over the world with a concern for global climate change gathered and marched together in the streets of Copenhagen to highlight the challenges faced by the Himalaya in the context of global warming.

The event also included other activities such as the “Himalaya- Changing Landscapes” photo exhibition; a cultural program by a Sherpa cultural group and a Danish band; speeches by mountaineering leaders and icons and the issue declaration to Save the Himalayas. Nepal Mountaineering Association along with several organizations such as Nepal’s National Trust for Nature Conservation, ICIMOD, WWF, Nepal Tourism Board, the World Bank, Danish Embassy, Union of Asian Alpine Association, ESA, and NRN joined hands with the government to launch this special event.

I thank all the participants for their concern and support towards saving the Himalayas and the mountain environment.

Just ahead of the Climate Change talks in Copenhagen, my son Dawa Steven along with renowned mountaineer Apa Sherpa, 19th times Mt.Everest Summiteers went on a ‘European Expedition.” On expedition they visited 10 major European cities. They attended various events and exhibitions, participated in many talks, gave lectures and presentations, met high- profile politicians and celebrities, and spoke to the media delivering the message from Himalayan communities who are on the front line to face the impacts of climate change. The ‘European Expedition’ was part of the Climate for Life campaign of WWF and directed to raise the profile of the Himalayas in the global climate debate. Dawa Steven and Apa are both Ambassadors for the Climate for Life campaign.

Starting from Prague, Dawa Steven and Apa passed through Brno, Bratislava, London, Viterbo, Gland, Chamonix, Vienna, Brussels, Paris and finally to Copenhagen. In London, Dawa Steven spoke to Members of Parliament at Westminster. In Gland (Switzerland), Dawa and Apa met Jim Leape, Director General of WWF International and were awarded “Leaders of a Living Planet” the Highest award for conservation given by WWF. Dawa Steven also informed the Austrian President about Nepal’s problems in the face of Climate Change and handed over the summit rocks to the President. Similarly in Brussels (Belgium), Dawa Steven spoke at a Climate Change rally to 13,000 people and participated in round table talks at the European Parliament where members of Parliament, South Asian Nation Ambassadors and officials of the European Commission were present. In Paris, they handed over the Prime Minister’s Letter to the Chief of Protocol of the President’s Office. Also please visit:
http://www.climate4life.org

Looking forward to an exciting New Year, we also have many programs planned.

Mt. Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee will be celebrated on 28 May 2010 and on the same day Save the Himalaya Conference will be held. On 29 May 2010, various programs will be organized to celebrate International Everest Day.

Conforming to the success of Imja Tsho Action Event 2009, Dawa Steven Sherpa and his iDEAS team will organize Imja Tsho Action Event 2010 this year also on 10 June 2010. The run titled Beat the GLOF Action Run will start from Imja Lake (5010 m) and end at Khumjung Village covering a total distance of about 35 kilometers. Following the Action Run on 11 June 2010 will be Save the Himalaya – Khumbu Festival at Khumjung Village to focus on the mountain communities, the mountain environment and the impacts on them due to climate change. Also please visit www.theuiaa.org/act_mountain_protection.html

Eco Everest Expedition 2010 will take place this year with a special program. This year Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition team has planned to collect and bring down garbage from the Mountain, including at altitudes as high as 8000 m and above. The plan is to create a team of 10 Sherpas to clean up garbage and debris from such high altitudes. This year’s expedition targets to bring down 1000 kgs of debris from high altitude (above Camp 2) and 6000 kgs of debris from Camp 2 and below.

I once again hope to receive your support and encouragement for our efforts in the New Year.

Best Wishes,

Ang Tshering Sherpa

Founder Chairman
www.asian-trekking.com

Happy International Mountain Day!

Save the Himalayas

The program will be organized as an accompanying event of the fifteenth conference of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change to celebrate the International Mountain Day on December 11, 2009. Mountaineering icons, marching in summit gears on the streets of Copenhagen, will be joined by many mountain lovers in issuing a declaration to save the Himalayas from the impacts of climate change.

 After holding a historic cabinet meeting at a Mount Everest base camp last week, Nepal is all set to organize a march by Everest summiteers at Copenhagen on December 11.

 The hour-long march comprising mountaineers who have scaled the world’s tallest peak will coincide with International Mountain Day and highlight the threat posed to Himalayas by climate change.

 “The march to be held on the sidelines of the Copenhagen meet will have mountaineers marching in full mountaineering gear to attract global attention to the issue,” said Deepak Bohara, Nepal’s minister for forest and soil conservation.

 On Monday, a 57-member Nepalese delegation led by Bohara left for Copenhagen. Several other ministers including Deputy Prime Minister Sujata Koirala will leave soon to take part in the march.

 The Nepalese team which comprises of 32 Mt Everest summiteers includes Apa Sherpa, who has climbed the peak a record 19 times, Min Bahadur Sherchan (77), the oldest climber and Nimduma Sherpa, the youngest woman summiteers.

 Several Mt Everest summiteers from across the globe including Austrian Peter Habbler, who climbed the peak without oxygen cyclinder, Canadian Byron Smiths and the Mayor of Prague Pavel Bem are also expected to take part in the march.

http://www.savehimalayas.org/index.php

DECLARATION 

The Summiteers’ Summit to Save the Himalayas Copenhagen, 11 December 2009

 The majestic Himalayas, whose enthralling beauty have inspired awe and religious devotion in people around the world for millennia, continue to challenge the human spirit and contribute to the human experience. The Himalayas are the ‘water towers’ of Asia, feeding its largest rivers and nourishing hundreds of millions of people downstream. The Himalayas play an important role in global atmospheric circulation and are a sanctuary for unique biodiversity. The lofty peaks and mighty rivers have inspired civilizations and supported a mosaic of cultural diversity. The Himalayas, in essence, are a global treasure.

 But the perils of climate change are threatening this treasure. Temperatures are rising rapidly at higher altitudes – several times higher than the global average. Glaciers are melting – changing landscapes and creating dangerous glacial lakes held back only by natural dams of rubble and ice. The ensuing changes threaten unique ecosystems and the lives of millions of people living in the mountains and downstream who eke out their livelihoods from diverse mountain resources. The menace of climate change on the Himalayas will manifest far and wide in the form of drought, flood and sea level rise. As the seas rise, there is no refuge from climate change even at the highest altitudes.

 We, the undersigned, confirm the vital importance of the Himalayas and recognize the risks posed by climate change; we call upon the world community:

 • To focus attention to the challenges of climate change in the Himalayas and downstream.

• To value their unique contribution to human adventure, global ecology, and regional river systems;

• To safeguard Himalayan ecosystems which provide essential services to millions of people living in the mountains and on the plains.

• To enable mountain peoples to meet the unfolding challenges of climate change.

• To save the Himalayas for the current generation and for generations to come.

The highest ever Cabinet meeting

After passing initial health check-up in Syangboche, twenty-four Cabinet ministers, including Prime Minister Madhav Kumar Nepal, have reached Kalapatthar plateau near Everest Base Camp at an altitude of 17,192 feet (5,242 meters) at 9:20 a.m on Friday morning to hold the historic Cabinet meeting set in the backdrop of the majestic Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, the world's tallest mountain.

 The Cabinet meeting will be held for around 30 minutes to draw global attention to the threat of climate change in the Himalayas. It is set to declare Banke National Park as new national park and Api-Nampa and Gauri-Shankar as conservation areas.

 A rescue team led by Usha Gurung along with six doctors and a team of mountaineers are accompanying the ministerial team for this historic event.

 The government will make public the decision of the Cabinet at a press meet after arriving in Syangboche (3,780 m) later.

 Speaking to media-persons before the ministerial team was air-lifted to Kalapathhar, Minister for Forest and Soil Conservation Dipak Bohora said that the Government of Nepal is holding the Cabinet meeting to draw the attention of the world to the threats of climate change in the Himalayas and the people living in the region.

 The Cabinet is set to endorse the agenda prepared for the UN climate change summit to be held in Copenhagen.

 State-owned Nepal Television is broadcasting the special event live from Kalapatthar.

 Twenty four Cabinet ministers, including PM Nepal, had reached Lukla Airport in Solukhumbu district on Thursday to take part in the historic meeting. However, four ministers missed the meeting.

A large number of national and foreign journalists, health and technical teams had reached Syangboche on Thursday to cover the rare media event.

 The high-altitude Cabinet meeting has attracted international attention, especially as it comes on the eve of the Copenhagen summit. nepalnews.com