Nepal - Page 6

Hooray, the summit!!! Today at 9.30 am Nepal time, the "V Meru Peak" group in full force stood on the summit of Mera Peak 6476 m!

We were lucky, we caught a weather window, which we slipped through. Literally right after we descended from the summit, everything was covered with clouds again. And when we descended from the assault camp in Khara, we were already driven in the back by the wind and snow.

We set out for the ascent in two groups with an hour difference in the exit, in the end we all reached the summit together.

Emotions are overwhelming! An unrealistically beautiful ascent! The panorama of the Himalayan eight-thousanders, which accompanied us all morning, is impressive! At dawn, views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga and Cho Oyu opened up!

The climb from the assault camp at 5800 to the summit took 6 hours. It was not easy. The climb is quite long, but it was definitely worth it!

Everyone is alive and well and has already descended to Khara. Tomorrow we hope to fly to Lukla.

Guides Alexander Dorojukov and Sveta Kotlyar.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Viktor Volodin sends from Nepal:

 Hello everyone from the Everest-25 expedition! Yesterday (May 4) Viktor Volodin's group (Club 8000) early in the morning, at 3 o'clock, set out for the second acclimatization rotation. Alexander Abramov's group (7 Summits Club - VIP) continued to rest and gain strength. In good weather, we climbed to the first camp at 6100 without incident, according to plan. Today, May 5, Alexander Abramov's group, at the crack of dawn, also at three in the morning, set out in the direction of the first camp. And we got some sleep after yesterday's long march and slowly moved to the second camp, at 6500. The weather is good again, but it's hot as hell. Now the sun has set and it has become quite cool. Abramov's team is spending the night in Camp 1.

Namaste from the "Tuda-Syuda" group from Nepal! Today we have a rest day. After breakfast we got ready and went for a walk. We reached the monastery, sat, meditated.

After lunch we gained a little altitude for acclimatization. The rain interfered with our plans, so the walk in the fog was short. We waited out the precipitation in the monastery. There we also had a puja ceremony. We received a blessing and slowly went down to rest.

Tomorrow we have a day of trek to Dingboche, we gain altitude up to 4310 m.

 The guides Andrey Berezina and Kristina Putintseva.

The President of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the Everest expedition, Alexander Abramov, reports from Nepal:

Today, the 7 Summits Club group continued their rest at Everest Base Camp. They held classes on the use of oxygen equipment. It was very useful for everyone. We studied for almost 4 hours.

And in the evening there was a friendly meeting with Victoria Bonya. She is also storming the slopes of Everest. We ate, drank, talked, sang songs. After all, we have the same blood and the same themes.

Tomorrow will be dedicated to preparing for the final acclimatization rotation.

May 2. The "Tuda-Suda" group had a delicious breakfast and slowly set out towards the legendary Namche Bazaar. We walked through a pine forest, enjoying the scenery. Almost the entire road was paved with stones. After lunch, the weather deteriorated a little, and it started to rain a little.

Having gained 1,000 meters in altitude, we already felt pleasantly tired, and wanted to rest as soon as possible after a long climb.

But in Namche Bazaar, an unpleasant surprise awaited us: there has been no electricity for several days. The power station broke down. No electricity, no Internet... and it was quite cold.

But they were waiting for us here, and provided us with maximum comfort.

 May 3. In order not to freeze in the dark Namche Bazaar, we decided to move on to Tengboche to spend a day of rest there. On the way, we admired the incredibly beautiful views. Thamserku, Ama Dablam, Lhotse and other peaks were visible in all their glory through the flying clouds. Blooming rhododendrons pleased the eye, and the smell of the pine forest gave strength. We went to a Buddhist monastery, where the Yeti scalpel is kept.

On the way, we stopped to drink tea and taste delicious desserts. By evening, we settled, as expected, in the best lodge.

Super-guides Andrey Berezina and Kristina Putintseva.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Avtomonov reports from Nepal:

Namaste to everyone from Nepal! Our group decided to change the name to "Abramov's Favorite Group". Today we had a trek to Namche Bazaar. In the morning, we had breakfast in a beautiful lodge with electric sheets and went out on the trail. Along the way, we admired the views, looked at Thamserku. We climbed the Hillary Bridge and then came to the final destination. We rested, took a shower, checked the Irish pub for beer.

May 3, Dhaulagiri. Namaste from Nepal to everyone from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club! We are resting again. And it looks like for a long time. Forecasts show snowfalls in the coming days… To raise morale, we decided to organize a flash mob demonstrating our expedition gear.

In the evening, we held a teleconference with Yura Lukyanov (he is already in the hotel in Kathmandu, he was discharged from the hospital). Our immediate plans are to stay at the Base Camp on May 4 and 5. Possibly, we will leave on May 6 if the weather improves.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Photos from the Sherpa team. Photographed in the area of Camp 3.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the "V Meru Peak" team! Today is our day of active acclimatization! We had a good night's sleep and went for a walk to the Mera Peak base camp in the morning! The weather is finally good, it's warm and sunny all day. We walked for two hours up, gained 300 meters in altitude. We drank some tea and went down.

After lunch, we got our crampons on and held training sessions on the slope: we learned to climb up a fixed rope using a jumar and to rappel down. Everyone is in a great mood, in fighting spirit. Tomorrow we are going up to the assault camp. We are planning to storm the summit early in the morning on May 5. Wish us luck!

Guides: Alexander Dorozhukov and Sveta Kotlyar.

The president of the 7 Summits Club, the head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The 7 Summits Club team successfully completed the first stage of acclimatization. We spent the night in Camp 1 and then in Camp 2. At an altitude of 6500 m. Irina Bichikova climbed to 7100 meters under the program "Touching Everest" and successfully completed her adventure. Now we are all resting in the Base Camp. The day after tomorrow is scheduled for the second acclimatization rotation . Everyone should climb to 7100 meters.

May 2 Dhaulagiri. Namaste to everyone from Nepal from the Dhaulagiri Lovers Club group! Today we had a rest day in the Dhaulagiri Base Camp. We had a bath day, washed and did laundry. And the female part of the expedition also organized spa treatments, with masks and creams.

By lunchtime, a helicopter arrived with a new member of the international expedition. He brought us a parcel from Yury Lukyanov with kazy, red caviar, chocolate and other goodies.

That night, from May 1 to 2, the team of rope-riggers attempted to storm the summit. They reached 8000 (lost time by climbing false couloirs several times) and after almost 20 hours of storming, they turned around.

In the evening, we checked the forecasts - unfortunately, there will be snowfalls in the coming days. So we will sit in the BC and wait for the weather to improve.

Head of the Dhaulagiri expedition Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Hello everyone from Nepal! From a group with the as yet unconfirmed name "Hillary's Scalp". Today we had the most active day. We flew to Kathmandu, checked our gear, and also managed to run around the shops and buy the missing stuff. Then we had a delicious dinner in a restaurant with Russian roots. Then, after sleeping for literally a couple of hours, part of the group headed to Ramechap airport and flew to Lukla. The second part of the group flew by helicopter. The weather was favorable to us and we arrived without delays. Even a light breakfast and a hike to a beautiful lodge where we could finally sleep. But in the evening we went to the monastery above the lodge and played a football match with the monks. Tomorrow we are heading towards Namche Bazaar.

With you was a guide Sergey Avtomonov.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the "V Meru Peak" team! We continue our way to our summit. Today we climbed higher, to the village of Khare at 4950 meters.

The morning was pleasing with views! We saw all the surrounding mountains, and after an hour of climbing we found ourselves at the most beautiful lake with turquoise water Sabai Tsho. Today's trek took about 4 hours and when we arrived in Khara, it started snowing again. Here we will spend two nights for better acclimatization.

Guides: Alexander Dorojukov and Sveta Kotlyar.

Namaste from the 7 Summits Club group "Tuda - Suda"! Today we had a very long and eventful day. We got up before dawn to fly from Kathmandu to Lukla. At the airport, we had to wait a long time for our flight, since the whole sky was covered with clouds, and it was raining heavily. Five people flew to Lukla, walked around, and went to Phakding. While we were enjoying the pine forest, the rest of the participants flew straight to Phakding.

We all gathered around a large table and discussed plans for tomorrow over a delicious dinner.

Super guides Andrey Berezina and Kristina Putintseva.

May 1st to Dhaulagiri. Happy holiday to everyone and namaste from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club" group! Today we returned to the Base Camp after two high-altitude overnight stays. Unfortunately, one of the participants - Yura Lukyanov - was forced to end the expedition due to health reasons. Now he is in the hospital in Kathmandu, recovering.

On the first day we reached Camp 1 (5700m) in 10 hours, gaining more than 1000 m vertically. It was a tough climb - many steep ropes on rocks and ice, cracks...The next day we moved to Camp 2 (6200m). This climb was much easier - only 500 m of difference and easy snow terrain.

This morning we celebrated May 1st with a friendly line in Camp 2 and cheerfully ran down. True, we almost got lost in the fog, which began just when we were approaching the icefall. But everything worked out, we found the way. Everyone went down to the camp alive and well.

Now we are resting.

We are planning an assault exit no earlier than May 4-5. Now the ropes are fixed to Camp 3. But tomorrow the first attempt to storm the summit by the team of Sherpas fixing the route and two members of the international team (a Pakistani and a Taiwanese are spending the night today in Camp 3 without oxygen) is possible.

Head of the expedition to Dhaulagiri Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the group "V Meru Peak"! Today our May Day demonstration of 14 participants and 2 guides set out from our beloved village of Kote towards the village of Tagnak!

The weather, frankly speaking, is not at all May! We were already walking in a drizzling rain in the morning, and a couple of hours later it started snowing. On the way, we stopped at a small Buddhist monastery and prayed for better weather.

We arrived in the village of Tagnak (4300) by lunchtime. While we were checking into the lodge and eating, a miracle happened - the weather suddenly cleared up and we saw the Himalayas in all their glory! Someone up there in the heavenly office heard us after all!

Now we are resting, warming ourselves by the stove and enjoying the views. And tomorrow we are going higher.

Guides: Alexander Dorozhukov and Sveta Kotlyar.

Hello to everyone from the Club 8000 group as part of the Everest-25 expedition! Yesterday was a difficult day for Viktor Volodin's group. We spent the night in Camp-2 at an altitude of 6500 from April 29 to 30. At night the thermometer dropped to -15. The weather is changeable and this was good, since it was not so hot on the descent. The day turned out to be difficult - we had to descend from the second camp straight to the base camp. One participant was not feeling well, the altitude was making itself felt, and he had to be evacuated to the hospital in Lukla by helicopter. Now his condition has improved, but he will need to lie down for a couple of days. There is still time to return to the ranks. The whole group safely descended to the base camp, where, as always, there is delicious food, drink and a warm bed. Abramov's group spent the night in the second camp and today they will also have to make a difficult journey to the base camp. 

Expedition guides Alexander Abramov and Viktor Volodin.

Today, another wonderful team "Tuda - Suda" gathered in Nepal. We checked into the historic hotel "Yak and Yeti". We checked our equipment, walked along the shopping streets, bought what was missing. We discussed plans for tomorrow over a delicious dinner.

We have a short night ahead of us, because at five in the morning we leave for the airport to fly from the busy and densely populated Kathmandu to the stone Lukla. And from there we will walk to the Everest Base Camp. So, tomorrow we will delight you with breathtaking views of mountain landscapes.

The guides Andrey Berezina and Kristina Putintseva.

The President of the 7 Summits Club, the leader of the Everest expedition, Alexander Abramov, reports from Nepal:

Today, Alexander Abramov's team climbed to Camp 2 on the slopes of Everest. Altitude – 6500 m. Everyone feels great. Tomorrow we will descend to Base Camp and rest for four days. The weather is good today.

According to reports from Lyudmila Korobeshko.

Hello to everyone from Nepal from the "Dhaulagiri Lovers Club"! On April 29, the weather improved a little, and we went on the first acclimatization rotation. at 5.20 from the camp. One of our participants felt unwell and with the help of the Sherpas returned to the base camp. The rest continued their journey and reached Camp 1 in 10.5 hours.

On April 30, the group successfully ascended from Camp 1 to Camp 2. All the participants who ascended feel well. The weather is also good. We spend the night here today - at an altitude of 6200. Tomorrow we descend to Base Camp.

** The leader of the Lakpa Makalu Sherpa team reports that he hopes to reach the summit by May 1 and fix the ropes on most of the route.

The list of the route preparers: Taraman Tamang, Pem Dorchi Sherpa, Phurba Kusang Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Chhumbi Sherpa, leader of Lakpa (Makalu) Sherpa.

Big greetings to everyone from the Everest 25 team! The calendar shows April 29. Abramov's group left at dawn for acclimatization in the first camp at 6100 and was there at two o'clock. Volodin's group (Club 8000) slept well after yesterday's climb from base camp to the first camp and at 9 am set out for the second camp at 6400. Yesterday and today in the morning, and all night long, the weather was not favorable. About 30 cm of snow fell during the night. After leaving, a couple of hours later, the weather settled down and it became hot as a frying pan. By lunchtime, all the participants were there, settled in spacious tents. Delicious lunch, and the Internet here is only at the "7 Summits Club", at such an altitude. The participants feel good.

Guides Alexander Abramov and Viktor Volodin.