Everest(8848) - Page 10

Yesterday it was our last rest Day in  the base camp. We have mastered the different possibilities of our base Camp:  played table tennis and billiard, watched TV and listened to a lecture by Valdis on the film making.

 In the evening we celebrated the birthday of Roman Reutov. He is now 31 years old. The evening was not boring, there were: toast friends and the leaders of the expedition, Tibetan folklore ensemble of the people's Republic, famous showman (Valdis)  from the first Russian television channel.  The main item was obligatory dance with every expedition girl in the hall. The party was a success.

 Today the team goes to 5800 m and tomorrow to the Advanced Base Camp at 6400 meters.

The weather is bad, the snow falling down.

 Follow the events live!!

The first outing to the altitude of 5800 meters is usually the hardest.

For the first time the team wears backpacks, and it is hard after the long and heavy jeeps trip. We begin walking on a broken yaqui trail. There is a lot of snow all around. The locals don't remember so much snow. A lot of snow is as on the trail, as on the slopes.

After 7 hours, the team from Basic (5200m) came to an intermediate (Middle) camp.

There is a comfortable accommodation: warm dining tent, warm tents, warm sleeping bags. The camp stands on the crest of the moraine, and all the wind flow around. The night went well, in the morning all were able to wake up :)

Next evening, already in the Base camp we inaugurated our club tent. It is a hemisphere of 12 meters in diameter. Inside there are: the TV, billiards, table tennis, library.

Now almost nobody from members gets ill. But Oleg Pimenov and Liana Chavdarova went down for prevention. They have a mild cough and to restore health, it is useful to stay down in the warmth of a kilometer below the Base camp.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from Tibet. Yesterday we had excursions to the Palace of the Dalai Lama Potala. Me and Mingma with the other guides were doing different sorts of purchases, Internet settings and all sorts of other things. Today the hosts said goodbye to us and our team drove 7 hours to the town of Shigatse, where we settled in a very nice hotel. Here we shall buy blankets, pillows, for base camp, in order to live comfortably over the next forty days. And tomorrow we will go further.

By the way, yesterday a dinner was held with the leadership of the Tibetan mountaineering. We discussed, among others, how to fix ropes on Everest. And also we discussed a visit the Tibetan climbers in Russia, to be held in June. The 7 Summits Club invites several representatives of the Tibetan mountaineering, with whom we want to climb Elbrus.
Goodbye! To the following information! Bye!

Alex Abramov: 

The entire team flew to Lhasa. Immediately mountain sickness struck us, so that the flag was upside down...
Now all feel good. Tomorrow a day in Lhasa. Need to do a lot of things.

On April, 10th eleven mountaineers will start their expedition to the top of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8848 m). Professional guides will accompany the group, because most of the participants will climb the highest peak on Earth for the first time. Climbing fans will have a unique opportunity to watch the ascent which will form the basis of a documentary with a working title of “The gene of altitude, or how to summit Everest”.

Vlad Moroz on the summit of Ama Dablam with Mt. Everest behind (L)

TV producer Valdis Pelsh will join the expedition to lead a team of photographers to capture the trials of climbing the Northeast Ridge route to the top of Everest from the early stages of preparation near the base of the mountain, ascending to base camp, acclimatization at the various camps along the route through the final push to the top. The film will tell the story of the team’s conquest of Everest and any related rescue activity.

Modern technology will allow a complete video record of the climb. Each climber will have an action camera, so no interesting event will remain behind the scenes. Three cameramen, two of which are professional mountaineers, will focus on recording the climb. With a dedicated video team the expedition promises to deliver many unique shots, both beautiful and emotional, since each mountaineer will face several physical and psychological trials.

Expedition team members:

Alexander Abramov – mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the 7 Summits Club, expedition leader

Ivan Dusharin – mountaineer, Master of Sport, International Class, Snow Leopard title holder, vice-president of the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Vladislav Moroz – mountaineer, Master of Sport, director of the Red Fox company

Denis Provalov – speleologist and mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the Moscow Federation of Sporting Speleology. In 2013 he set a World record for altitude differential of 10,998 m, between climbing to the top of a mountain and then descending to an underground cave.

This expedition is organized with support of the 7 Summits Club and RD Studio.
Red Fox and Zamberlan are equipment partners of this Everest Expedition

Yesterday our team arrived in Kathmandu.

After a short briefing and “distribution of elephants”, shirts and jackets, all met at the party. Russian Ambassador to Nepal Sergey Velichkin came to meet and greeted us.

By tradition, the party was held in the chambers of the former Royal Palace, in the end of it there was a disco. And why not? All team members have long been on planes, and wanted to move.

Today our entire team is invited to the Embassy.

Fully photo gallery of our Everest expedition.....

For more than 10 years of experience in the Everest region, Alexander Abramov and 7 summits Club have formed a great team of staff, mainly composed of persons Sherpas nationality. These are our true friends, who love their work, friendly and always willing to help. Of course, there were different cases in different situations, sometimes misunderstanding, there have been mistakes. One thing is clear, every year the team is working better and better. Thanks to our Nepalese chef Mingma Gelu Sherpa!

Traditional Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club will be held in April and May of 2015. The route from the north, from Tibet, by the North-East Ridge via the North Col. Logistics will be provided by a Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventure, Director - Gelu Sherpa Mingma. Alexander Abramov as usul is the expedition leader. During the expedition, a crew of "Studio RD" (head Valdis Pelsh) takes video  materials for a documentary with the working title "How to get to Mount Everest."

Members of the expedition:

1 PIMENOVS Olegs 03.09.1967 LVA Riga, Latvia
2 MENSKII Anatolii 14.05.1975 RUS Berezovka vill., Tumenskaya region
3 MURAVEV Kirill 11.07.1971 RUS Leningrad
4 CHABDAROVA Liana 24.08.1982 RUS Nalchik / Moscow
5 KARYAKIN Evgeny 19.01.1974 RUS Saratov
6 REUTOV Roman 24.04.1984 RUS Moscow
7 IULIN Andrei 21.09.1975 RUS Chelyabinsk
8 LETHEO Thale 07.09.1981 ZAF Lonehill, S. Africa
9 SALOVA Irina 27.07.1977 RUS Yverdon, Swizerland
10 MOROZ Vladislav 15.06.1962 RUS Leningrad
11 VOSKRESENSKAIA Nadezhda 11.12.1965 RUS Moscow (до Северного Седла)
12 GEVORKYAN Marina 10.06.1978 RUS Moscow (восхождение на перевал Лакпа Ри).

A crew of "Studio RD"

1 PROVALOV Denis 29.03.1969 RUS Moscow
2 KOZLOVA Kristina 04.12.1977 RUS Moscow
3 KUBASOV Alexander 12.01.1982 RUS Klimovsk, Moscow region
4 DUSHARIN Ivan 01.11.1947 RUS Moscow
5 PELSH Valdis 05.06.1967 RUS Moscow

Guides

1 ABRAMOV Alexander 16.01.1964 RUS Moscow (6 Everest summits)
2 LARIN Sergei 25.06.1959 RUS Tver, Moscow region (6 Everest summits)
3 HANNA Noel Richmond 18.01.1967 IRL Dromara, N. Ireland (7 Everest summits)
4 BOGOMOLOV Sergei 23.02.1951 RUS Saratov (2 Everest summits, 13 eight-thousanders )

The first team  arrived in Kathmandu: Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin and Vladimir Kotlyar.

Here we were met by Gelu Sherpa Mingma, our permanent sirdar, and my daughter Lena.
We found out that tomorrow a big strike begins in Nepal, which will last 3 days. Therefore, our Sherpas, who prepared an expedition for a couple of months, tonight with the entire load, 5 trucks, go to the border of Tibet and tomorrow will cross the border.
Yay! The expedition begins!

Yesterday at our club a meeting of participants and guides future Everest expedition took place. The tasks of the expedition will include not only the climbing itself and the preparation for it, but part (help) in the filming of a documentary about this mountain. Command of the 1st Russian TV channel under the leadership of Valdis Pelsh will shoot this film. Valdis told us about the idea of the film and how it will look. Meeting as usual was held in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. All participants continue to train hard, but now knowing more about his role in the expedition...

link to the Everest program 

http://7summits-club.com/programs/all/region_4/country_248/program_30/

This season Mount Everest gave only to days for climb. We were lucky to manage to reach the top by all climbers and guides except two that got ill when acclimaizing.

Alex report: Hello! Yesterday, May 25, our second team (all members and guides) also reached the summit of Everest. The weather was not very good. There were many people, too many. So we could not go down immediately to the camp ABC, as we usually do. The team spent the night at the camp an altitude of 7700 meters. Now we slowly continue to descend to ABC. We're good ... and perfectly. I will try to dictate names of summiters. First two Ladies: Iwona Zadarnowska from Poland and Natasha Matusova from Russia. Now on: Alexander Abramov , Sergey Larin , both for the sixth time, Dmitry Ermakov, Alexey Boutin ... Who else ? Igor Stolyarov, Vladimir Voronin of Ukraine, seven Sherpas and Ravil Shamgulov, a Canadian citizen. I hope no one has forgotten.

It was difficult climb, very difficult. But actually we were lucky with the weather. Because when the number of 100 people in one day started, if a hurricane or some snow, then some people would have remained on the mountain. That's right. In our expedition all climbed the top:

14 members 3 guides and 14 Sherpas.

All except those who left us after acclimatization due to illness. I mean Kostya Ugriumov and Patrick Butler from Ireland.

Now we are all on the North Col , but it is still too early to celebrate ....

Hello! This is Alex Abramov. Today we have a great event. The first team - in strong wind and snow, reached the summit of Everest. They were on top at about 7 am, with a gap of about half an hour. All seven members, seven Sherpas and guide Noel Hanna were on the summit of Everest. Now they go down. Surnames : Vasya Kernitsky, Zygmunt Berdyhovsky from Poland, Derek Mahon from Ireland, and Russian - Anton Seleznev, Sergey Dmitriev, Denis Abuev, Vlad Lachkarev. All now in the process of descent from the top…

And the second team goes to meet them from the camp of 7700, hopefully tonight to make the same heroic feat and go down alive and healthy. Goodbye!

Hello! Alex Abramov reports from the North Col of Everest. This is past few days, we hope - the last days of our expedition ... The first team of 9 members is now coming from the height of 7700 to the camp 8300 . Second team follows them from a height of 7300 to 7700 . Good weather - not a cloud. Wind, for me from the tent ... well it seems pretty weak. Follow our news. Until now everything goes according to plan. And , in general, on the next night the first team should go for the summit. Goodbye!

Alex Abramov from the Everest base camp :

As you understand, all members are alive and well, all ready to storm the Summit. May 17 th, after studying the weather forecast, the guides decided to start out in the morning on May 18th. Team led by Noel Hanna came out of the Base camp to the Middle camp .

And tomorrow, the second team under the leadership of Alex Abramov will be start in the same direction.

Days of summit bid for two groups scheduled now for 25th and 26th of May .

The day before, we had a party on the end of the seating in the base camp. We invited the team Adventure Peaks, led by my friend Rob, with whom we often met in Antarctica.

It was a lot of music, and dance, and toasts, and even a " farewell cake ."

And see latest pictures:

Our team sits at the base camp and it looks like another 10 days the weather will not good. Forecast gave a good weather on May 27, may be. Of course, if the monsoon not comes.

We tried to have fun, watch movies etc. Billiards Championship of camp is in full swing. Maybe we'll go down to catch trout. Natasha and Sergei cooked Russian salad and fried potatoes.

In general, this year the weather does not make us happy: on the top constantly there is strong wind 100 km / h and more. Sherpas team have not fixed the ropes and said that until May 25 they could not do it.

The main thing that our mood is GREAT !

Alexander Abramov

leader of the expedition to Everest 2014

Alex Abramov: Yesterday, the 9th of May the 7 Summits Club provided the party of friendship and acclimatization, devoted to the Victory Day.

It passed in a real warm atmosphere!!!

All members of different expeditions come to us. All, who were in the Base camp. We sang, and ate, danced and played together.

Now our team, all 19 people, went down the valley to rest for 2 nights.  Then we will  return to the base camp and proceed to the main part of our climb.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov . I 'm on the ice wall near the exit to the North Col . Beautiful weather, no wind, heat. I want to report that all is well with us . The first team is now climbing to the North Col , in order to go on to a height of 7500 meters, with the purpose of acclimatization . The second team is at an altitude of 6400 meters ... However, there are changes. Kostya Umrilov is down to the base camp. Also our “merry Pole” Ivona Zadarnovska is going now down to the base camp , she has a strong cough. And Vladimir Voronin from Ukraine is also descending , he has a fever . But I hope that after week at base camp, they should get better. The remaining members of the expedition all cheerful, happy , and ready to conquer Everest . It will take approximately 15 to 19 th of May , or it can be from 19 to 23 th May . That'stheinformationwehave. Hi!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, from the Advanced base camp at the height of 6400 meters, on Everest. Our second team descended from the North Col. Their overnight on 7000 was quite good. Unfortunately, we were forced to send down Konstantin Umrilov, he fell ill. Expedition proceeds. Tomorrow the first team again is going to go on the North Col. To spend the night and the next day to try to climb on 7500. After that the second team does the same heroic feat and by May 9th all members and guides have to gather in the base camp. On May 9 we plan a traditional party where we invite usually all base camp. Weather is so-so, again brings down snow. Now we had dinner and very quietly dispersed on our tents. All, good-bye!