Everest(8848) - Page 11

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov, from cold Himalayas, Everest Expedition. Hello, warm, spring Moscow! Yesterday the first half of our team spent a night at 7 thousand on the Saddle (North Col). The second team left there today. A cold wind blows. But we do not lose heart. Everything else, internet modem is broken. So that do not wait images in the coming days. And in general, all is well. The food is good, the people are nice..... Goodbye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from a height of 6400 meters, from advanced base camp. Today the first team (8 people) is here . We had breakfast , now it will be held ice classes. We will train ascending on fixed ropes, because tomorrow is our first team goes to the North Col of Everest in order to spend the night at an altitude of 7000 meters. The second team of 11 people spent the night in the Middle camp , and now rises toward the ABC camp. Tonight should all meet here. All feel fine, acclimatization goes according to plan, that is, sufficiently smooth, soft acclimatization.

Tonight snowed 5-10 sm. Everything is covered in white snow, very beautiful.

Tomorrow Sherpa and Lama will hold the opening of the camp ABC – puja. I will be prayer, etc… A general, all is perfect, the weather is nice, the sun shines. Justafternoonsometimes snows . Andsoallgood. Goodbye !

Almost all members of the group Everest climbers from 7 Summits Club took part in the competition. The event was held on the system "each with each" to 3 sets. Games stretched for almost the whole day. Chief judge of competitions was Ivona Zadarnovska-Wingert from Poland (by the friendly nickname "merry Pole").

By the end of the competition day by scoring we identified leaders who again played each other for prizes. As a result, Vladislav Lachkarev from Siberian Irkutsk won first place, second place went to Irishman Derek Mahon, and third place – for charming Muscovite Natalia Matusowa.

Evening at the banquet table, the winner was awarded a prize - a bottle of expensive wine. Vladislav first wanted to retire with this bottle in his tent, but decided to split the prize between all team members. As Vlad said during a toast : "Better to be first in the base camp than on Everest a second ! "

Now, the team members are trained for the next competition - are preparing in billiards.

Hello! It is Alex Abramov from the Everest expedition, the camp ABC, at 6400 meters. There, of course, real fridge yet. Very cold, wind . Today we went here without acclimatization. Since in the South all the expedition were canceled, now we are the great common hope. Because in the north there are about 100 climbers, of which 19 people – from the team of 7 Summits Club. Now we are the biggest expedition on Everest .. .... Descend to the base camp, then we will see. Tomorrow our Sherpas start to set up a camp on the North Col, at 7000 meters ... Goodbye!

Today, our team made the first acclimatization outing to the Middle Camp, at 5800m. There was strong winds. It was very cold at night, but we survived. Everyone could feel like in the drama on Everest hero, 90 years before, attempts to climb Mallory and Irvine ...

Lake near Middle Camp

Alex: Because I had a bad cough and to prevent bronchitis, I went down for treatment at 1000 m below the base camp. To breathe "oxygen" and sleep in the warmth of the village of Old Tingri (altitude 4200m) .

There I suddenly met a team of Alpine Club of MAI (Moscow Aviation University), which just drives into the base camp Cho Oyu. They are 6 climbers led by Misha Volkov. The meeting was held at the high and even higher than the high level and ended warm parting. They went on their way, I stayed in my den.

Tomorrow I go up to the base camp . Hello everyone !

Photos from the base camp of the 7 Summits Club expedition...

Almost all team at once...

Farewell to Lhasa....

Good morning Xigar!

Our expedition flew to Lhasa. The trek to Mount Everest begins.

Alex mer his friend Nima Tsering, the Ministr of Sport of Tibet, Everest summiter.

 Entertement in Lhasa.

Today - the official day of start of the 7 Summits Club expedition to Everest. The main part of members of expeditions arrived in Kathmandu today. Everything is going normally. Expedition is large, probably the second or third largest on both sides of Mount Everest, the biggest on the North side.

The expedition : 15 climbers and 4 guide.

And numerous group of Sherpas , led by Mingma Gelu.

Traditional reception at the Russian Embassy . With us Israfil Ashurly and Firuz Dadashov from Azerbaijan who go on Shishapangma.

A report of the world record established by our friend Valera Rozov became the world news dated for 60-year anniversary of the firstMount Everestclimb. This message got on pages of the world press, the leading newspapers, the most popular news TV channels. Fine! We are proud that this new achievement of the outstanding Russian athlete was made within the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of Alex Abramov.

The images that tell the story of Valery Rozov's epic Mt Everest BASE jump

Red Bull:

The Russian extreme sports star Valery Rozov has made the highest ever BASE jump after leaping off Mt Everest from an altitude of 7,220m. Rozov made the jump on May 5th after almost two years of planning and training. Check out the video and the full story on our news page.

Valery Rozov group of 11 people was working in our expedition. Among them, his constant companions for the most extreme expeditions: Alexander Ruchkin, Thomas Senf and Sergey Krasko. The group was acclimated, has prepared the site for a touchdown and a shooting onNorth Rongbukglacier. Time was short, and Valery decided to jump at the first opportunity, on May 5.

Red Bull:

The ascent began on the Chinese side on the famous north route. Rozov had selected a spot for his leap at an altitude of 7,220 meters. It took him four days to climb from base camp to the jumping location, assisted by a team of four Sherpas.

At precisely 2:30 p.m. local time on May 5th, with temperatures at -18 Celsius, he jumped. Because the cliff at the top was not very high, the initial moment in the rarified high altitude air was extremely precarious.

Initial moment the most critical

Rozov needed more time than usual in the thin air to transition from freefall to flying. But after that he flew for nearly a full minute at speeds of about 200 km/h down the north face before landing safely on the Rongbuk glacier (5,950m).

Thank you, Red Bull !

Pictures by Denis Provalov

Back in Kathmandu

InKathmanduthe gala evening was waiting at Rum Doodle, with awarding diplomas. Then all members went home. As a result of the expedition the summit ofMount Everest was climbed by 10 Europeans and 9 Sherpas. A total of 19 people. And 3 members climbed the North Peak of Everest (Changtse).

We crossed the border. Denis Provalov and Vladimir Rychenko even managed to jump with badges.

On behalf of the members of the expedition representatives of Kazakhstan Konstantin Morozov and Yaroslav Sabyrbaev  from the company HeydelbergTsement (HeidelbergCement) we expressed gratitude to the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov and personally for the excellent organization of the expedition and successful ascent of Mount Everest in 2013

 All members of the expedition who climbed the top of the World met at the ABC camp. It was the time for final dinner at Everest.

Today the second group of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. Three members: Sergey Dudko, Dmitry Krasnov, Vladimir Rychenko. Two guides: Noel Hanna (6th time) and Denis Provalov. At 11-30 Moscow time the group went by the camp 7700 m.

Altogether in this expedition Everest was climbed by seven members and three guides.

Record of Denis Provalov - 10988 meters >>>>>>>

App. at 2:00 a.m. Moscow Time four members  (Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich), guide Alex Abramov and Sherpas has reached the summit !

Murad Ashurly: 7700 camp 25000feet, very windy, now push to camp 8300 (27000 feet) few hours rest and go to summit 29000 feet. Will fight hard wind! I am with David Roeske from NYC here! He is brave man!

First group: Sergei Shevchenko, Konstantin Morozov, Murad Ashurly, Jaroslav Sabyrbayev and Vitaly Simonovich. Guides: Alexander Abramov and Mingma.

Alex Abramov:  After 3 days of rest down in the valley we are back in the base camp. It was  avery important part of expedition, we should  be fit. Many were hurt by a throat, there were other problems with health. Now all it seems in norm, all are ready to climb. The weather forecast promises daily decrease in a wind.

Sherpas are working to equip camp with all necessary. They promise that the first group will be able to go up tj theNorth Colat May 16.

Now we were divided into 2 groups. The first will try to reach the top on May 19, the second – on 20th.

Here is our plan.

Alex Abramov from Everest base camp: Today, May 8. The whole team  came down to the Base Camp. Today, 14 people - Valery Rozov and his team and a team of climbers on Changtse left for Kathmandu, and then to go home. Now, only 10 climbers on Everest and 4 guides were left in the camp.

Sherpas will continue to set the upper camps. Weather forecast is disappointing, it promises a hurricane for 11-12 and 14-15 of May.

So now we are getting ready to go down to 4200 to rest.