Everest(8848) - Page 14

The Everest expedition 7 Summits Club Everest meets the Easter holidays in the heart of Tibet. We spent a day in the city of Shigatse (3900m). It was very successful day. Nice sunny weather favored sightseeing tour, acclimatization, food intake and religious reflection on the eve of Easter. Next stop is Xegar (4200m).

Today the Everest team of the 7 Summits Club visited the Potala, the former palace of the Dalai Lama. All members were delighted. We note a good attitude, hospitality of Tibetans.Everything in this country seems unusual. Even the World Map they have unusual ....

Alex Abramov and Mingma (Director 7 Summits Adventures) visited the STMA - Tibet Climbers Alliance, which organizes our Everest expedition. We met with the chairman of the STMA Mr. Chang. And the manager, whose name is Tsedron. The meeting was held in a friendly atmosphere.

On April 10, after a sleepless night, our team finally landed in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Our layover in Delhi turned into a battle with the representatives from Jet Air, who, after rummaging through our luggage, decided that we were carrying dangerous cargo and told us that they couldn’t take our equipment any further. We told them about our expedition to Everest and explained how important that hardware is to us.

We finally got them to come around, but only after giving them our autographs and a couple of Alpari t-shirts (and showing their managers the site).

When we got into Kathmandu, we were met with a flurry of commotion, rickshaws and rain.

This evening we are going to unwind with a nice dinner. Tomorrow we’ll pack up our things. On April 12, we fly out to Lhasa, Tibet.

-Lyudmila Korobeshko

Five minutes after we got the message from our captain, Maxim called to describe the team’s emotional state. Not everything he told us is suitable for print, so we’ll leave you with a few choice excerpts: “unpleasant”, “over weight”, “couldn’t get any sleep”, “Dusharin has gingivitis”.

We hope a decent meal will help cheer you guys up.

Hello! Alexander Abramov from Kathmandu, Expedition Everest - 2012. Today, Sergei Larin was due to arrive, but his flight was detained. He is still in Delhi. Yesterday 20 of our Sherpas had already left to the base camp. They will establish a base camp. And with them went our guide Noelle Hannah. Tomorrow the first members of the expedition began to arrive. This two Americans, Nathan Schneider and Jozeff Pratt ... And the next day all of our expedition arrives. It's about 25 people, all gathered in Kathmandu. The 12th we all fly to Lhasa, and from there to the base camp. Good-bye! We are all well.

With Valery Babanov

Our sincere condolences to his wife Barbara and sons! Unfortunately, we didn't meet Lincoln more after expedition of 2006. We saw him in the film, read the book and thought that sometime the destiny will bring together us in Katmandu or in Sydney. Alas, the ruthless illness deprived of us such possibility. Lincoln Hall disappeared in history and took in it the worthy place.

From obituary

AUSTRALIAN MOUNTAINEER, LINCOLN HALL has died last night after a short but typically spirited battle with mesothelioma.

His wife Barbara and long-time friends and fellow mountaineers Tenzing Sherpa and Greg Mortimer were with him. Greg, the Australian Geographic Society's deputy chairman, phoned this morning to deliver the sad news.

"It was very peaceful in the end, around 11.45 last night," Greg said. "Lincoln got into quiet, rhythmic breathing - it was almost meditative - and then he quietly slipped away."

A brilliant, witty and open-hearted man, Lincoln was a key member of the 1984 Australian Everest Expedition that put the first two Aussies - Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer - atop the world's highest mountain, and came within a few hundred metres of the summit himself. Lincoln's story of the expedition, White Limbo, is a classic of mountaineering writing and one of the best known of his several books. His successful 2006 climb of Mt Everest and famous survival epic after being left alone above 8000m in caught worldwide attention. His account of the story, Dead Lucky, was published in 2007.

Lincoln served on Australian Geographic's original editorial advisory panel in the 1980s, wrote several stories for the journal and was a great supporter of the AG Society and other Australian adventurers. His service to adventure was recognised by the Society in 2010, when he was presented with the Lifetime of Adventure award. He was also a founding director of the Australian Himalayan Foundation, which strives to improve education, health and environmental outcomes for people of the Himalaya region.

"I was lucky enough to walk with Lincoln in the Everest region in Nepal a few years ago and it's a trip I'll never forget," said AG editor and Society trustee Ian Connellan. "He was so funny and warm, and had such a wonderful, open, uncomplicated honesty. I'm terribly sad to know that I won't get to laugh with him again."

AUSTRALIAN mountain climber Lincoln Hall has died from mesothelioma. He was 56.

The world-renowned mountaineer, who was a member of the 1984 first Australian Everest expedition, died ''peacefully'' in Royal Prince Alfred Hospital in Sydney yesterday, said Australian Himalayan Foundation chairman Simon Balderstone.

His wife, sons and close friend and fellow mountaineer Greg Mortimer were with him.

Australian mountaineer Lincoln Hall with his wife Barbara in the Nepali capital after his rescue.

''Lincoln was well-known for his feat of survival on Everest in 2006, when, after summitting the mountain he collapsed just below the summit and had apparently died, only to be found alive the next morning by climbers on their way up the mountain,'' Mr Balderstone said.

Mr Hall's lawyer, Theodora Ahilas, from Maurice Blackburn, which recently concluded an asbestos compensation claim for Mr Hall, said his disease was allegedly linked to asbestos exposure as a child.

''Lincoln was an amazing man who was able to remember a remarkable amount of detail about his exposure to asbestos as a child,'' she said. ''It was alleged that in 1965 and 1966, Mr Hall assisted his father to build two cubby houses using asbestos cement flat sheets on their property in Red Hill in the ACT.''

Canberra Climbers' Association president Zac Zaharias said Mr Hall would always be regarded as a prominent climber. He said Mr Hall would be remembered not only for his amazing feats on Everest, but for his drive and moving writing.

He was also a compassionate man in his role as director of the Australian Himalayan Foundation, set up to help impoverished communities, he said.

In 2006, a rescue team of sherpas helped the veteran climber descend 1700 metres from where he had collapsed after a successful climb to the summit. It had been reported 24 hours earlier that Mr Hall had died on the mountain.

He had to be carried over several obstacles and restrained when he became delirious from altitude sickness. But word got back from the highest camp on the peak that he had walked the last few hundred metres into North Col camp before collapsing. He was left for dead on the mountain at 8700 metres when he broke down while descending from the 8848-metre summit. Those with him could not move him after he became delirious, a sign of oedema, or fluid on the brain. His companions in a Russian-led expedition were forced to leave him on the mountain overnight.

The next morning another group of climbers found him, still clinging to life, and a rescue party brought him down.

In a 2007 interview on ABC TV's Enough Rope, Mr Hall said he was attracted to climbing mountains because of the physical dangers, but also the challenges, like ''mental fortitude, physical fortitude, judgment''.

''It's the intensity of the experience, at a sustained level. The experience is incredibly intense because it is so dangerous,'' Mr Hall said. Away from the mountains, Mr Hall said his wife and their two sons made ''the world go round''.

Asked how she felt when her husband left the family to go climbing, his wife, Barbara Scanlan, said she knew she could never change that part of him. ''I guess climbing and, more so, mountaineering is such an integral part of Lincoln and what makes him tick,'' she said.

Traditional meeting of friends of 7 Summits Club will be held March 15 at 20:00. The place is the same: store "Activny Otdykh" on the Great Pereiaslav Street, Building 7. We will tell you about our achievements over the past few months. Let's try to highlight the most interesting and significant record of our many trips. We also formally introduce our expedition to Everest and wish the participants good luck.

But the main event will be the performance on the evening of the great Russian traveler Fyodor Konyukhov, who takes part of our expedition to the highest peak in the world.

We will try to establish a new route to Everest. Our team of 5-6 Russian climbers leaded by Alex Abramov and Mingma Gelu Sherpa plan to start from the Changtse camp (6000m), climb to Changdze summit (7543m) by North ridge, then descent to the North Col and continue climb to Main Summit by classic route.

Second part of our expedition will use standard route. It will consist from 12 clients and 12 Sherpas. Guides Sergey Larin (Russia) and Noel Hanna (Ireland)

This year is an anniversary year for the country’s mountaineering: it’s been 30 years since the successful ascent of Mt. Everest by the USSR team (May 1982), and it’s been 20 years since the first Russian expedition to the top of Mt. Everest (May 1992). Fedor Konyukhov was a member of the latter expedition that consisted of four Russian mountain climbers. Paired with Eugeny Vinogradsky (Yekaterinburg), he ascended to the top of the world on May 14th at 13:15 Katmandu time.

Twenty years later, Fedor is planning to repeat the ascent of Mt. Everest, but this time, climbing the North Side, where the climb leaves from Tibet. As a partner for this expedition, Fedor Konyukhov has chosen “7 Summits Club”, the International Alpine Club that specializes in arrangements of all the necessary steps for the ascent of the eight-thousanders. (http://www.7vershin.ru/)

Fedor Konyukhov: “I turned 60 last December. It’s a good point in life to stop and reflect on all that has been accomplished in life including reaching the North Pole, Mt. Everest, and sailing around the Cape Horn. It’s been 20 years since my last expedition to the top of Mt. Everest with the “AVTOVAZ” team. I would like to try the ascent one more time and, God willing, to place a small Orthodox cross on top of the summit. (Author’s note: Fedor Konyukhov was ordained as a priest of the Russian Orthodox Church in December of 2010).

Alexandr Abramov is a professional mountaineer and President of the “7 Summits Club”. In the 1990s, he and I were working simultaneously on our goals of achieving The Seven Summits program, which consists of climbing the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. There are many organizations that specialize in this kind of mountaineering, but I would like to work with this Russian company, given the fact that “7 Summits Club” is one of the leaders in this area of expertise. In addition, there will be a large group of us, including a few of my friends, who will stay at the base camp. I want them to see the beauty of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest and to experience the spirituality of that place.”

Alexander Abramov: “Nowadays the process of putting together an expedition to summit Mt. Everest is different than back in 1992. After all, it’s been 20 years, but Mt. Everest remains Mt. Everest and no one can guarantee a successful ascent of the 8850 meters. We will have one guide per five climbers. Each climber is accompanied by a Sherpa. We provide six oxygen tanks of system “Poisk” per person. Our medical person works with us until the North Side. There are four fully established base camps at the 5100m, 5800m, 6400m, and 7000m as well as 2 fully equipped high-altitude camps at the 7800m and 8300m. The expedition will take place between April 10 and June 10, 2012. I am very pleased that Fedor Konyukhov will be a member of our team this year. I’ve known Fedor for 20 years, and I will be happy to help him realize his dream.”

January 10 at 7:45 am Karinn Mezova (young woman, pride of Kabardino-Balkaria republic in the North Caucasus) has climbed the tallest peak of Africa. Congratulations! In May 2011, Karina climbed Everest in the group of the 7 Summits Club. Meanwhile, a new Everest Expedition formed in other North Caucasian republics - Ingushetia. President Yunus-Bek Yevkurov personally spoke at a press conference. He arranged to finance the expedition from special funds. Four Ingush climbers are preparing to participate: Musa Hadziev, Visankirey Yusupov, Leila Albogachieva (woman) and Magomed Aushev. Experienced Himalaya climbers Sergey Bogomolov and Vladimir Korenkov invited to participate as leaders. Yevkurov also like to see in expedition Abdul-Halim Olmezov from Balkaria, who twice climbed to the summit of Everest.

Next week, the climbers will go to Tanzania to conquer the highest peak in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m). Then the group will travel to South America to Argentina, to climb Mt. Aconcagua (6,960 m). In addition, Yevkurov ordered to organize a mountaineering school in Ingushetia for young people. As you know, it was recently decided to build a great country ski resort in Ingushetia.

Sergey Kovalev is the leader of climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine). In the big interview he declared the nearest plans. He intends to continue a program «Coal of Donbass at the highest summits of the world». Last year Sergey has finished the program of 7 Summits. In this autumn, he was a leader of expedition on Pumori and Ama-Dablam. Now Kovalev dreams to carry out a new expedition on Everest in the spring of 2012. The idea consists in the following: the representatives of four cities of Ukraine in whom European championship matches on football will take place, have together climb the tallest peak of the world. They should make the first kick on a ball at the top of Mount Everest. Cities: Kiev, Kharkov, Donetsk and Lvov. Now the main business is to get an interest of sponsors, and qualified climbers are in Ukraine.

According to Alexander Abramov, the summit of Everest was climbed by seven members of the expedition 7 Summits Club, guides Victor Bobok and Noel Hanna, and seven Sherpas. We were the first in this decisive day, because we started first. Our team reached the summit about 3:30 local time.

Climbers:

Members of the expedition 7 Summits Club:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov  (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Guides:

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

And our beloved friends Sherpas ( 7 persons)

All day it was snowing, but we have no choice. About 170 people are now in the assault camp. We need to leave early to avoid stuck in traffic jams on the Second step. And tomorrow, according to the forecast, the weather will deteriorate in the middle of the day.  Forecasters promised an almost windless night with a weak clouds. So that the exit is scheduled at 7 p.m. local time (in Tibet - 8 p.m.). All 19 people are preparing for a summit push.

Today, in a day, Tibetan climbers have completed the preparation of route, now the rope fixed up along the whole route to the summit. The way is open. Weather still gives hope for a successful ascent. Wind is within allowable in power. On the scheduled day, it should not worsen. The whole team (8 members, 8 Sherpas and 3 guides) are now in a camp at an altitude of 7800 meters. On May 20, in the morning, they will go to the assault camp at 8,300 m. And the same evening, that is, tomorrow, the whole team should go into the assault of Everest. All are doing well. A. Abramov.

 All 19 climbers of the 7 Summits Club expedition on Everest are climbing from the North Col (7000 m) to a camp at an altitude of 7500 meters. Summit bid is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May for whole group. At this time, due to weather conditions, most expeditions have shifted final attemts, both in North and South. However, on the north side, the route to the summit has not yet climbed and fixed with ropes. This is alarming. Tibetan climbers from the local mountaineering association should have been updated all ropes along the route.

Expedition leader Alexander Abramov has sent information from the camp ABC. A summit bid for the expedition 7 Summits Club is scheduled for the night of 20 to 21 May. The Chinese have promised to finalize the route and fix ropes up to the summit on May 20. Tomorrow, May 18, the entire group of 19 people pulled out of ABC to the North Col camp (7000 meters). May, 19 – to the camp at 7500 meters. May, 20 – to the assault camp at altitude of 8300 meters. May, 21 - an attempt to climb the summit. Now all members of the expedition is preparing for exit

Specifically, members:

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrey Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloivan (44) Moscow

Roman Gretzky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

guides of the expedition:

Sergey Larin (51) Tver

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

and 9 Sherpas ....

Alexander Abramov, plans to stay the climb from camp ABC.

The 7 Summits Club Everest expedition continues to wait for completing preparation of route. Under contracts, it had to be done by Tibetans, employees of the local Association of mountaineering. However, their forces are not enough, a lot of snow, wind ... It must be other solutions, they need help by expeditions. However, a potential for this is not so big, every expedition leader takes care of his Sherpas to work with clients. But there is no other exit, you need to sacrifice something for the common cause.

Last week, in two days more than 40 climbers reached the summit of Everest from the south. Including a large number of commercial members. And one of the guides of Alpine Ascent Michael Horst made a significant achievement - he climbed the summits both Everest and Lhotse in a day.

Our other expeditions. Israfil Ashurly in the team of Alexey Bolotov attempted to climb Kanchenjunga. However, our climbers were stopped by strong wind and now they are preparing for the second attempt. Also, the wind did not allowed to climb Shisha Pangma for Donetsk team of climbers led by Sergei Kovalev. They will also prepare for a new assault.

May, 11 the expedition of 7 Summits Club went out from the base camp for climbing to the summit of Everest. All members and guides of the team underwent acclimatization, during which climbed to the top Changtse (North Peak of Everest) or to a height of 7500 meters on the classic route. We plan to climb by two groups. The first group is scheduled to leave for summit bid on May 16, the second - on May 17.

Expedition:

The main part of the expedition (with permit on Everest):

Karina Mezova (28 years) Nalchik

Andrew Podolyan (39) Moscow

Dmitry Sokov (43) Sakhalin

Igor Prinzyuk (33) Khabarovsk

Yuri Beloyvan (44) Moscow

Roman Grezky (39) Moscow

Christopher Cannizzaro (25) U.S.

Creenagh Popescu (16) Romania – cancelled due to illness

Group with special permits (without climbing Everest) - their mission is completed:

Valery Rozov (46) Moscow

Denis dips (42) Moscow

Sergey Krasko (49) Moscow

Anatoly Yezhov (64) Archangel

Guides of the expedition:

Alexander Abramov (47) Moscow – leader of the expedition

Victor Bobok (50) Moscow

Sergey Larin (51) Tver

Nicolay Cherny (72) Moscow

Noel Hanna (44) Ireland

We have a bad news. Crina Coco Popescu and her father went to Nepal and tomorrow they want to fly to Romania. Coco won't participate in the Everest expedition anymore because of some medical problems in the acclimatisation trek she didn't reach the base camp to meet the other members of the expedition. It is very sorry. Such a good girl ! We became friends in Antarctica this year.

Today, the team climbed to the top of Shigar 4 700m, which stands the monastery Shigar. All were satisfied.

The team gradually getting closer.

That's good.

Alexander Abramov

14 th we arrived in Lhasa. We are well met by our old friends from the company STMA.

15 th all members went to the Potala. And I was running around Lhasa, and therefore I did not write  news. As always the hardest was to get right Chinese SIM cards for Internet

As a result, I bought a 1913 modem China Mobile. Other operators do not work in the Everest base camp. Now the whole expedition is provided into  Internet. All could call on Skype to family and friends and send pictures.

Yesterday, the 16 th we spent the night in Shigatse - the second largest city in Tibet.

This morning we visited a very nice local monastery, walk around the city, bought blankets and pillows.

Acquainted with the system of boiling water by solar energy. Today we moved into town Shigar

Today Anatoly Yezhov and our guide Dima Ermakov flew from Kathmandu to Periche by helicopter. There an Academician, rector of a University Anatoly Yezhov set a new world record in lifting weights on the slopes of Everest. The entire group got together and we're ready to fly to Lhasa on April 14.

 Anatoly Ezhov (right)

Alex with Crina and Ovidiu Popescu