Everest(8848) - Page 7

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from camp ABC: Day 16. May 2. Expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest – 2017.

 Morning in the camp ABC was beautiful, the wind is not strong, the sun. All night we were breathing artificial oxygen. All of the participants feel great! Cheerful and fun. All  are ready for new challenges. Celebrate  May Day  by best acclimatization! In the morning, the Sherpas brought tea and coffee in the tent. It was very useful, you can lie still for half an hour, take a nap in a solar-powered tent. 7:30 – Breakfast. 9:00 exit to acclimatize. We reached Crampon point in 55 minutes. The altitude of 6,500 meters. Our team looked much fresher other teams who came up here without  sleeping oxygen.

 Just as we descended to ABC, started  a blizzard, that had filled the whole camp with snow. But we have a good basic tent. No one from the others expedition. So we quietly played cards, having dinner-supper. We talked about life and discussed the plans, in warmth and comfort. All trails were filled with snow. But, thank God, we have planned for tomorrow only the descent to base camp. In warmth and comfort. To the shower in which we are not bathed from the time of departure from Kathmandu. It was necessary to avoid getting sick with pneumonia on high altitude.

 All, once again, happy May Day!

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the camp ABC:

Day 13. April 29.

 The expedition  of the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Saying goodbye to accompanying the expedition three girls who really didn't want to leave, we went in Middle camp, 5800. There were to continue our ACCLIMATIZATION OXYGEN. Everything was going as usual and 6 hours under the scorching sun we got to our comfortable camp Middle camp. 5800м. After the "water chicken" soup, all climbers feel better. Even played with playing cards. However, winning those who have indicators of oxygen in the blood above. Before bed all persons put on oxygen at 0.5 liters per minute and forgotten the sweet sleep.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition from the camp ABC:

Day 14. April 30.

The expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest 2017. It turns out that not all the participants breathed oxygen all night. Some of them economizeв oxygen and breathing just 3-4 hours. Moreover, in the morning, all climbers feel equally well. Even doubts began to arise in the need to breathe artificial oxygen in the night. But when we started moving up that those who spent the night breathing and recovered well, they were better than those who claimed that without oxygen they feel good. We came all the way from the Middle Camp to camp to ABC, it takes about 7 hours. Needless to say, it was not easy. But camp ABC immediately impressed everyone with its comfort. The main attraction - a big tent with a diameter of 8 meters, with a large transparent window with views of Everest. And equipped with heaters. Our camp is at the top of place, so yaks don't go near our camp. Tomorrow is May 1th Holiday, we will go to mention his drum lessons on the ice.

Alex Abramov,  leader of the expedition from base camp:

Day 12. 28 April. The expedition the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

The health state of members  is excellent. No one is sick. We attribute this to our Experiment the USE of OXYGEN DURING ACCLIMATIZATION.

All the participants were happy to take part in the first outing to the glacier with the use of crampons and fixed rope training.

This morning another 40 Yaks gone up, its carry oxygen and a lot of things  for the camp ABC (6400m) for the higher camps.

 Our world record holder Lhakpa Sherpa went up with the yaks caravan. She was already 7 times on the summit of Everest and this is an absolute record for women. Doctor Sergey Larin measured her pressure: 160/100. It seems a bit high.

But doctor Sergey said that all the Sherpas has  the high pressure and frenzied sexual activity.

 Tomorrow we are also going to leave up to 3 days. First, we will spend a night at Middle camp ( 5800м) and we will be there at night breathing artificial oxygen. Then, we will climb up to the camp ABC (6400m) and so we will use oxygen for  the first night. In the morning we will hold on-ice practice and the next night we plan not to use the oxygen for best acclimatization.

I'm afraid that the next 3 days we will have no connection... Although... we'll see.

Bye everyone!

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader:

Day 10. April 26 (evening).

The expedition 7 summits Club Everest 2017.

NEW OXYGEN POLICY OF ACCLIMATIZATION

Given the experience of last year, AND the EXPERIENCE of a 17-year-Himalayan expeditions of Alexander Abramov and doctor of  expeditions  Sergey Larin, we have developed a plan for "Soft Acclimatization in a short time."

This is a new feature of the 7 Summits Club on Everest. We  will sleep every time at a new altitude the first night with Oxygen. This is very unusual. No one does that. But, we believe that this helps to avoid sick the next morning. And the members of expedition will be more energetic and acclimatization will go more softer. Last year none of climbers who used this feature  did not get sick. I mean in the first days of acclimatization, the most critical.

And now we held classes for oxygen equipment and sleep with oxygen at the Base camp of Mount Everest. The altitude of 5100m.

And we do that when the first night we'll sleep in the Middle of Kemp 5800м and the first night at ABC 6400m.

For this purpose, we purchased enough additional oxygen.

This is a new word in acclimatization and we are ready to listen to criticism. Really don't promise to take it seriously. )))

Here is the list of climbers and trekkers:

 SUMMIT EVEREST

 Permit Everest

GREBNEVA Irina (33) Moscow

KOCHANSKI Janusz Mieczyslaw (53) Cracow, POL

TEBIEV Valery (46) Noginsk

AKKAEV Aznaur (44) Nalchik

BRIMAN Daniil (46) St.Peterburg

KRAVT Evgenii (42) Samara

SAVCHENKO Oleg (50) Moscow

STARIKOVSKIY Andrey (52) Plainsboro USA

SIDYAKIN Alexander (39) Moscow

Permit Base camp

GREBNEVA Anastasiia. Moscow

OSIPOVA Olga. Moscow

GUBINA Nadezda Moscow

Guides to Summit

ABRAMOV Alexander (53) Moscow

LARIN Sergei (57) Tver

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader: Day 10. April 26.

The expedition 7 Summits Club Everest 2017.

Today early  leaving Xegar, we went to Everest Base camp. On the way we stopped at a wonderful pass from which can be seen immediately 5 eight-thousanders. On that background we jumped. The base camp met us with good weather. And with our special soup (borsch) that are prepared by our Sherpas. They also prepared a cake and a plate of French cheese.

Tomorrow we will have an acclimatization day. We'll go near the camp. And now, in the evening, we held classes for oxygen equipment and  going to sleep with oxygen. This new feature of the 7 Summits Club. We will sleep every time at a new altitude the first night with oxygen.

Alex Abramov, the leader of the expedition: Day 8. The expedition of the 7 summits Club - Everest 2017.

Today our team was in a very beautiful monastery in Tashi Lompo. It was considered by all participants, much more interesting than the Potala in Lhasa. We are very well walked on it and talked to Tibetans.

Then we checked out and spent the whole day traveling in the bus, drove two mountain passes at an altitude of 4530м and  5200m. The second pass by height is just as our base camp. The wind was blowing and we understood that the Everest is not joking. But the mood of the team  still is fighting.

We settled in the hotel in Xegar. In the rooms  it is warm. Air conditioning warm air.

Tomorrow we will go for acclimatization outing. And tomorrow we should arrive in Base camp.

Alexander Abramov, expedition leader on Everest:

 Day 7.

The expedition of  the 7 Summits Club Everest-2017.

Today was moving day from Lhasa to Shigatse 3400m - 3900m. The morning a part of our team was not feeling very well.

7 hours we were driving at a speed of 30 km per hour. Faster in Tibet are forbidden to go. Good thing that we have 2 comfortable minibus 14-seater. In one is going 7  persons and the other 6.

 The weather is unpredictable. It began to rain. Means in the Base camp it is snowing heavily. Thank God that we are not there yet.

The city of Shigatse - the second largest city of Tibet. It is  liked  by every our members: clean and comfortable.

Here we buy blankets and pillows. It is to sleep with comfort at Base camp and ABC.

All managed to do it – all you need to buy.

The team is friendly, like a family. And of course, the presence of four women very diverse our life.

For a while! Tomorrow moving to Xegar. A cold place, but interesting...

Alexander Abramov, the expedition leader: Day 6.

 Today the day was dedicated to Lhasa and the palace of the Dalai Lama - Potale. Also I with Sergey Larin was engaged in purchase of sim-cards and all that is useful in the base camp.

 This is 10 electric heaters, now the base camp has electricity, a new billiards table and a new table for table tennis.

 All this took a whole day until 19:00. The rest of the team, meanwhile, visited holy places.

 In the evening we celebrated Nadia Gubina's Birthday. It was fabulously fun.

 Tomorrow we leave for Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. At 3900m.

 See you on the net!

Alex Abramov:  Day 5. Today is a chic day. It is evident how our team of 13 people rallies on our eyes.

Today we left Kathmandu and in 1 hour had already landed in Lhasa. Lhasa simply shocks by the speed of its development.

For the 10th year I arrive here and do not recognize it every time.

 Now we stay in a great hotel, we visited an excellent restaurant. Then we took a walk through the historic center around the Jokhang temple. Seen the stretching Buddhists. Every members likes Lhasa. We did the right thing, that we are not going early. In the city  it is very warm and even hot.

 Our Sherpas team is already 7 days in the Base Camp. They have already set up the Base Camp and the Middle-Camp. Therefore, as soon as we arrive, we will begin the process of our "Soft-but-fast acclimatization". When by a certain plan, for some nights we will sleep with oxygen: one night at the Base Camp, Middle Camp and the Advanced Base Camp.

 In the meantime, we enjoy Tibet!

Day 1. Everest 2017.

 Kathmandu is beautiful as always, and I gladly come here every year to organize another expedition to Mount Everest. There are many friends here, there is our office of the 7 Summits Club. There is a unique hotel Yak and Yeti in which we place all our expeditions for many years.

 This, in my opinion, is the best 5 * hotel in Nepal, with own territory, where you can run and train. This hotel can be compared only with the hotel Hayat. But that is very far from the center. Our hotel Yak and Yeti is  just the wing of the Royal Palace.

  Day 1. Everest 2017.

 It's nice to be photographed in Kathmandu at the newly opened Red Fox store  with its owner, Mingma. And at the same time feel involvement in the opening of this corner of Russian culture.

 Mingma Gelu is my partner, Vlad Moroz (Red Fox) - friend. The store constantly has Russian visitors. A charming saleswoman and part-time daughter of Mingma - teaches Russian at the Russian Cultural Center in Kathmandu.

Alex Abramov: Day 1. Everest 2017. Guides  of the 7 Summits expediton on Everest arrived in Kathmandu. They are Alexander Abramov and Sergey Larin.

Mingma Gela Sherpa, an eight-time Everest summiter meets us at the airport. He is the organizer of all our expeditions.

The expedition is started and going on.

April 12, at the evening of the 7 Summits Club in the Tsvetnoy Shopping Center, Alexander Abramov presented the next expedition on Everest. Watch the video...

   So, the regular, traditional, 14th expedition of the 7 Summits Club on Everest actually  is started. This time we have  nine climbers, two guides and three people just as visitors to the base camp taking part in our team.

Here is the list:

 SUMMIT EVEREST

 Permit Everest

1. GREBNEVA Irina (33) Moscow
2. KOCHANSKI Janusz Mieczyslaw (53) Cracow, POL
3. TEBIEV Valery (46) Noginsk
4. AKKAEV Aznaur (44) Nalchik
5. BRIMAN Daniil (46) St.Peterburg
6. KRAVT Evgenii (42) Samara
7. SAVCHENKO Oleg (50) Moscow
8. STARIKOVSKIY Andrey (52) Plainsboro USA
9. SIDYAKIN Alexander (39) Moscow

Permit Base camp

1. GREBNEVA Anastasiia. Moscow
2. OSIPOVA Olga. Moscow
3. GUBINA Nadezda Moscow

Guides to Summit

1. ABRAMOV Alexander (53) Moscow
2. LARIN Sergei (57) Tver

=

On Saturday, December 3  a solemn evening of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FMR) took place in the center of Moscow in the Telegraph hall. The action is devoted to summing up year and delivery of awards to the caused a stir athletes. The awarding the prize "Gold Ice Axe of Russia" for the best climb of year was the main event, of course. However evening began, and it was very pleasant, from a celebration of new summiters of Everest. Since 2012 FMR awards them with the special medal.

 The organizers caused on the stage of our heroes of Everest. Members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club: Vlad Moroz, Roman Reutov, Irena Harazova, Igor Demyanenko. And also Masha Gordon, who climed from the South and forgotten in 2012 (when awarded all, since 1982) Vyacheslav Skripko. A bit later the award found one more heroine – Tatyana Yalovchak from Ukraine. She just was late. Awards will also be transferred to two more participants of our expedition: Oleg Pimenov and Vladimir Kotlyar.

On Saturday, December 3  a solemn evening of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FMR) took place in the center of Moscow in the Telegraph hall. The action is devoted to summing up year and delivery of awards to the caused a stir athletes. The awarding the prize "Gold Ice Axe of Russia" for the best climb of year was the main event, of course. However evening began, and it was very pleasant, from a celebration of new summiters of Everest. Since 2012 FMR awards them with the special medal.

 The organizers caused on the stage of our heroes of Everest. Members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club: Vlad Moroz, Roman Reutov, Irena Harazova, Igor Demyanenko. And also Masha Gordon, who climed from the South and forgotten in 2012 (when awarded all, since 1982) Vyacheslav Skripko. A bit later the award found one more heroine – Tatyana Yalovchak from Ukraine. She just was late. Awards will also be transferred to two more participants of our expedition: Oleg Pimenov and Vladimir Kotlyar.

We congratulate heroes of Everest!

And also the team of Moscow which won "Golden Ice Axe of Russia" for Thalay Sagar new route

and other winners of this evening.

Photos from Facebook from different authors:

Dear Friends,

 It’s not a secret that this spring, we organized an expedition to mount Everest from the North side, in conjunction with «7 Summits Club», «RD Studio», «RedFox», «Yandex» and «Toyota». The expedition was stopped in half way, due to an earthquake magnitude of 8 – We were lucky that nobody from our Expedition was hurt. We were forced to evacuate.

Despite this fact, we managed to create a panoramic view of our 19km route, right from Base Camp (5100m) to Advanced Base Camp (6500m).

The Panoramas were published before the release of the film "Everest".

In the autumn of 2015, inspired by the many positive responses from your side, we decided to finish the job and began to organize an expedition in 2016.

May 20, 2016, we managed to reach the summit (8848м) and completed the full route whilst picturing everything in 3D panoramic views from base camp to the summit. May 22, 2016, we returned to base camp uninjured and safe.

Early June 2016 when we returned to Moscow, we started going through all the raw materials and then commenced our work to ensure it was of the highest standard. We created a special interactive page dedicated to the climb. Now, because of our project, everyone will be able to travel our full journey right from base camp (5100m) up until the summit of Everest (8848м). You will be able to pass this scenic mountainous route without exposing yourselves to any danger. 

We wanted to make such beauty more accessible and wanted to share with you this joy and positivity.

And yes – we were the first in the world to do a full 3D panoramic view of route to highest point in World – Everest Summit!

Thanks to all of those who participated in the project. We really appreciated your support. We appreciated your selfless dedication and inspiring enthusiasm.

Special thanks to:

- Anatoly Topol and Konstantin Lysenko from Yandex team – without your enthusiasm and faith, this project would not have taken place

- Olga Bolotova from the team Neq4 – as the most energetic team member of our project

- RD Studio team, and personally to Valdis Pelsh, Kristina Kozlova, Alexander Kubasov, Vladimir Kudinov – for your support in the mountains – with you there was never a boring moment

- expedition team and to Alexander Abramov – for the excellent organization of the expedition and the feeling of tranquility

- Vladimir Kotlyar and Vlad Moroz – for their selfless help during the expedition, faith and dedication

- Max Shakirov, project partner – because you were always never far behind

- colleagues, to team and to management – thank you very much for the opportunity you gave ma and fot believing in me

- parents, relatives and friends – for their support

- and, of course, to the Toyota team – for «Always a better way»

Together we make the world better – thank you.

---

"I want to share with you the inspiring beauty of the world we live in."  Roman Reutov

The event will be held on October 13^th  on Thursday, beginning at 20:00. The 7 Summits Club celebrates its birthday and invites you to share the feast of all his friends and those who would like to become a friend. We invite you to our office ul. Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya, 7. Metro Prospekt Mira.

In the evening we will tell about our key expeditions of 2016, we summarize the results of several months of travel and climbing programs. You will find a meal and attention from the owners.

We present  main guests of the evening:

Oscar Konyukhov, the son and Manager of the greatest Russian traveler, tells about the organization of the expedition Fyodor Konyukhov  "balloon Flight around the world."

The participant of expeditions 7 summits Club, master of sports Alexander Yakovenko will speak about the project team's Vysota. Russian national team on high-altitude mountaineering, which this year closed the project "Snow leopard" five peaks in one summer.

We will also welcome the members of our expedition on Cho-Oyu this year, leader Sergei Larin. They had just come back from the Himalayas and will tell, how was the ascent.

We invited Natalia Kartashov our wonderful guide and instructor on the Crimean rocks. She's in the capital of many friends and we hope that they will not miss the opportunity to see her...

Natasha will tell us about the adventures of a team of 7 summits during the Big autumntrip to the Crimea. In particular, we share the impressions about participation in a unique race Crimea X Run - hard tests, an unforgettable experience!

Come, really looking forward to meeting You!

In 2006 Northern Irish adventurer Noel Hanna summited Everest for the first time in his life, one year after suffering retinal haemorrhaging on his first attempt.

Not content with climbing the world’s tallest mountain, after his descent Hanna then cycled down to sea level.

 In the following year the adventurer would complete the same feat on six different peaks; Mt. Vinson, Cartensz Pyramid, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, each the tallest mountains on their respective continents.

 Hanna is the first and so far only person to complete this astounding challenge.

 “It was a good challenge so it was,” he chuckles, reflecting on the superhuman effort.

 Ten years after his first successful Everest attempt, the Dromara-based climber has returned to conquer the mountain a further seven times – twice with his wife.

Hanna’s Everest pet-hate is poorly prepared climbers not respecting the mountain.

He wants to share his wisdom for those looking to take on the unforgiving mountain – less the mountain disrespects them back.

 Training on the hills – then climbing another mountain Hanna’s background in running ultra-marathons meant that he was well prepared for taking on Everest. However, he suggests that we don’t all need to be at that fitness level.

“If you’re a person of regular fitness, running 10ks or half marathons and going to the gym two to three times a week, that’s the base and then it’s just about getting out to the hills and walking with a big rucksack.

“Walking at weekends, maybe a four hour-walk or a five-hour walk in the hills with a backpack on.

“It’s very beneficial if you go to a high mountain before you go to Everest. Somewhere like Aconcagua in South America.”

Noel Hanna and his wife Lynne at the top of Everest (Photo: noelhanna.com)

Training the mind

Hanna suggests that the fitter you are, the more confident you’re going to feel on the mountain.

 “If you’re the weakest on a team, mentally that’s going to bring you down; if you’re one of the fittest on the team, mentally that’s keeping you strong.

“Go at your pace, don’t try and keep up with someone else just because they’re on your team, you have to go at your own body’s pace.”

Hanna’s kit list for Everest expeditions

Equipment for Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp: Duffle bag, sleeping bag, foam pad, gas lamp, gas stove, gas cylinders, personal items for washing, your favourite games, notebook

Technical equipment for ascent: Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12), rucksack 70-80 litres, rucksack 35-40 litres, harness, prussiks, karabiners with screwgate lockers – 3 items, jumar (ascender), telescope ski poles, thermos, rappel device, ice axe, head lamp, photo camera, video camera and assessors, accumulators, personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet: Trekking shoes, boots of “Everest” Millet type, down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls), Gore-tex jacket with wide hood, Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls), windblock jacket, windblock trousers, jacket “Polartec – 100”, warm underwear, personal underwear, Polartec gloves, Thinsulate gloves, Thinsulate mittens, warm woolen socks, balaclava, warm hat, windblock face mask, UV glasses, ski goggles (preferably), gaiters

Hone your ropework in the

Highlands Any technicals skills required to take on Everest can be perfected in the Scottish Highlands, or the Alps, according to Hanna.

“With Everest, there’s a technical side to it, but you don’t need to be super skilled on ropework for Everest.”

 Hanna says it is essential to religiously work on your ropework, be confident in rapelling (abseiling) and jumarring (climbing up a rope).

 Additionally, would-be Everest climbers need to be competent in clipping in and out of ropes, as well as passing anchors.

 “All of that could be done in the Highlands of Scotland or even in a climbing gym, but obviously it’s more beneficial to get in the snow with your crampons on and doing the training that way, or going to the Alps and doing Mont Blanc.”

Don’t rely on the sherpa

All climbers must be capable of doing the climb by themselves and there can be no over-reliance on sherpas.

 “A lot of people will think ‘Oh I’ve got a sherpa, if something happens to me he’s carrying me down’, but if the sherpa feels that his life is at risk he’s going to leave you.”

Tortellini and Coca-Cola

Hanna suggests that a drastic change in diet isn’t necessary for taking on the mountain.

“Some people take protein powders, but I don’t. I just eat normally, I don’t change my diet from home when I’m on the mountain because most good expeditions on the mountain, especially in the North side, get fresh stuff in all the way to base camp.

“We cook food all the way up to 7,000 metres and it’s really only on summit push at 7,700 and 8,300 that you use boil in the bag food, but normally we would have tins of tuna and foil packs of tuna.

“Ideally I like to put on maybe two or three pounds before I go to the mountain.

” Keeping yourself well fed even when your appetite fades is essential, says Hanna.

“A lot of people over 6 -7,000 metres lose their appetite. You need to force yourself to eat. It’s like a car if you don’t put petrol in it, it’s not going to go.”

 The Northern Irishman’s unconventional eating and drinking habits suggests there is room for a few home comforts when tackling the fearsome summit.

“The first year I was climbing there with a good friend of mine from Italy and he had taken tortellini pasta up with us and I had packets of tuna and we just made a lovely meal before we went to summit.

“I’ve always taken a bottle of Coke with me and I remember three years ago going for the summit – I had a small bottle of Coke – stopping to take a drink of it and as soon as I opened the lid it just exploded and 90% of the liquid inside just flew out of it with the pressure.

“I was devastated.” Noel Hanna (Photo: noelhanna.com)

 ‘There is no wall’

Hanna recommends running your own race and ignoring mountain literature that tells you exactly where you will struggle. Undoubtedly having strong mental fortitude is crucial to a successful ascent.

 “I went into climbing from endurance sports, like 100 mile runs. Somebody who has never done a marathon before, the first thing they will say to you is ‘when will I hit the wall?’ It’s a myth, it’s somebody else’s wall.

“If you’ve read a book that says you’re not meant to struggle till 7,000 metres and you’re struggling at 6,000 metres, mentally that’s going to affect you.

“I’ve seen people who struggle on their first acclimatization rotation, but once they get that sorted they’re the strongest on summit push. “I always said that 70% of it is in the head.”

 Bring a lucky charm

Making  physical, technical and mental preparations is empirical, but having a lucky charm is also of importance, says Hanna.

“My wife gave me a lucky black cat on a keyring and it’s gone to every mountain with me since 2004.

“I’m not superstitious or anything, but every single mountain that I go on, it’s attached on my rucksack.

“When I’m leaving on an expedition I need to make sure that cat’s with me.”

What does Everest mean to Hanna?

For most who complete the summit, Everest will hold a special place in their heart. For Hanna it was just another mountain – until his German Shepherd Babu passed away last year.

 “Me and my wife have a German Shepherd pup who was ten and a half years old, he passed away 10 months ago. We said if anything ever happened to him we’d take his ashes to the summit of Everest.

“That’s what me and my wife did this year, we took his ashes with us and we sprinkled them a couple metres from the summit and had a wee tearful moment for him.

“When I think of Everest now, I think of my dog’s ashes. Everest is the most thoughtful mountain for me. We don’t have any children so he was the closest thing we had.”

Read more at: https://inews.co.uk/essentials/news/uk/girls-body-image-one-three-believe-not-pretty-enough/

Climbing Mount Everest in the spring of 2016. The 7 Summits Club expedition. Filming of the RD Studio of  the Russian TV 1 Channel led by Valdis Pelsh. Yet the teaser. Total film will be released in autumn 2016.

 Public Speaking Ukrainian Summiter of Everest, expedition member of the 7 Summits Club, Tatiana Yalovchak visited Moscow. She paid tribute to the teachers in mountaineering Sergei Kovalev and Elena Kovaleva, who now live and work in the capital of Russia. Surprising  it took place almost in the form of a dialogue with the audience, which is not often. We can call it a success and a credit to both sides. The audience was curious, and Tanya spoke easily, but at the same time emotionally and honestly.

You are free to listen to excerpts of her speech

Subjectively, we note four points:

(1) Tatiana has been climbing for about 8 years. She went into the mountains as an amateur. It  is her climbing teacher Sergei Kovalev, who suggested the idea - to become the first Ukrainian Everest woman summiter. On his initiative and this meeting took place.  Many Thanks!

(2) From the beginning to the end of the expedition Tanya felt as a child.  It means full service, excellent living conditions and the best provision -  full opportunity to be focused only on their own physical condition. Quality of service 7 Summits Club praised.

(3) From the first to the last minute, Tanya had no doubt of success, never appeared  the idea that you can give up and retreat.

(4) At the urging of Alex Abramov, Tatiana decided not to make the race for the "Ukrainian championship" with another contender - Irina Galay. Tatiana went to the summit climb a day later to  avoid someone's haste. After all this haste would not only prevent the summit ascent, but also lead to more dire consequences. It's  some kind  of a moral victory of Tatiana Yalovchak.

(5) And there are no plans connected with the mountains. Rest, watch football at the European Championship, to get married and give birth...

Happiness to you Tanya! We will be still hoping to meet on a mountain trail.

May 20, 2016 Irene Kharazova raised the Armenian flag on the highest point of the world. Irene - the first Armenian, climbed Everest. In an exclusive interview, she talks about his emotions, about what attitude and preparation are needed to overcome such obstacles as it responds to her mountaineering interest  with the family and many other things.

When did you start one of the most extreme sports - rock climbing?

The desire to conquer the heights appeared at me exactly 5 years ago. I returned from Zanzibar, where she spent the holiday, and the pilot said, "And now, look to the left, it is the legendary Mount Kilimanjaro, the one who wants to afford something to prove conquer it." After arriving to Moscow, I first organized climbing. I liked it and I was involved in the project "7 Summits" - 7, the highest points on 7 continents that need to conquer. Everest – is the sixth....

FULL TEXT IN RUSSIAN