Everest(8848) - Page 9

April 18^th  a large team of members and guides of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club made an acclimatization ascent to the top near a small town in the district Xegar (New Tingri). During the ascent we made a lot of pictures, some of the photos, see the end of our posts. Or full ones here:

Gallery of Roman Reutov

 Gallery of Denis Provalov

BY THE WAY! During the movement of a group can be followed on-line via this link (thanks to Noel Hanna)

Yesterday, the main part of the Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club moved from the city of Shigatse in Xegar through the highest pass (5300m). At the same time, we continue to make short acclimatization outings and excursions to local attractions.

April 16^th the main part of the expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest moved from Lhasa (Tibet capital) in the largest city on the way to Everest - Schegatse. It is another 200 kilometers. Acclimatization continued, in particular in autotravel mode. Altitude presses, cool, a dull life, but it's useful to adapt ...

14.04. We started with the fact that before breakfast passed the luggage. Then we made a farewell photos from Kathmandu and went to the airport. Fly for about an hour. The plane was shaking terribly over the Himalayas. In Lhasa airport, we were impressed by the cleanliness and order. We lived in a comfortable hotel, fed a delicious lunch.

Here, the height of 2.5 kilometers higher than in Kathmandu, get used.

Next day, while the expedition leaders solve the problem with permissions, others commit sightseeing tour.

In a time when most Western companies have come to  Everest with  mini-expeditions, with 2-4 clients, Russian 7 Summits Club came with  22 clients and 4 guides! It is in terms of sanctions against our country and the uncertainty of the situation in Nepal and China!

11th of April. Kathmandu

April 12th in Kathmandu a big international mountaineering expedition on Mount Everest of the 7 Summits Club starts. Number of participants - 26 people, including 16 people who plan to climb to the highest point - 8,848 meters. The climb will be carried out by the classical route from the north, from Tibet. All members of the expedition are planning to climb using artificial oxygen produced in Russia. A large group of high-altitude porters and kitchen staff (Sherpas nationality) will run with the expedition team. The service will be provided by Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventures.

Expedition leader - Alexander Abramov. This will be his 14th expedition as leader on the world's highest peak

List of participants:

With Permit Everest (8848 m)

1. Olegs Pimenovs. Latvia.
2. Igor Demyanenko. Russia.
3. Janusz Kochanski. Poland.
4. Vladislav Moroz. Russia.
5. Roman Reutov. Russia. The representative of the company Yandex.
6. Liana Chabdarova. Russia.
7. Irena Kharazova. Russia.
8. Lynn Hanna. Northern Ireland.
9. Lay Kwai Chung. China.
10. Tatiana Yalovchak. Ukraine.

Cameramen (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Denis Provalov. Russia.
2. Vladimir Kotlyar. Russia.

 Guides (permit for Everest - 8,848 m)

1. Alexander Abramov. Russia. 6 ascents to the summit.
2. Sergey Larin. Russia. 4 ascents to the summit.
3. Lyudmila Korobeshko. Russia. 2 ascents to the summit.
4. Noel Hanna. Northern Ireland. 7 ascents to the summit.

Total the top of Everest climbers 16  (12 + 4)

Planned record achievements:

Alexander Abramov - Lyudmila Korobeshko: 3rd ascent of couples, the first time in the world.

Lynn Hanna - Noel Hannah: 1st in the history of climbing couples on two routes (South – North).

Liana Chabdarova: first Balkar woman.

Tatiana Yalovchak: the first woman from Ukraine.

Roman Reutov: panoramic shot record on Everest.

 https://yandex.ru/promo/everest/

Group with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Andrew Viktorson. Russia.
2. Nadejda Vosresenskaya. Russia.
3. Marina Gevorgyan. Russia.
4. Zbigniew Wolny. Poland.
5. Przemyslaw Simeon. Poland.
6. Maxim Shakirov. Russia.
7. Elena Abramova. Russia.

 A film crew of the RD studio with permits for the North Col of Everest (7,000 meters)

1. Christine Kozlova. Russia.
2. Alexander Kubasov. Russia.
3. Vladimir Kudinov. Russia.

During the expedition the group RD  studio will continue to shooting a film started last year for the main Russian television Channel One. Roman Reutov with help of experienced climber Maxim Shakirov continue to shoot the panoramic route of ascent for the Yandex company.

 The 1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition team will run independently of the other groups. Leader Lyudmila Korobeshko.

March 31th, the 7 Summits Club held a gala evening dedicated to the beginning of the Everest expedition. Vice-president of the Federation of Mountaineering of Russia (FAR) Ivan Dusharin said parting word to members of the 1st Russian expedition on Everest. He reminded that the expedition is officially supported by the federation and included in the calendar of events of FAR.  He  gave  members of expedition little flags for hoisting to the summit.

President of the Moscow Federation of Mountaineering Alexei Slotyuk gave them one, but a big flag for the entry to the top.

The next day, the famous traveler and the priest Fedor Konyukhov blessed the team in his chapel in the center of Moscow.

Press release of the "1st Russian Women's Everest Expedition"

Dates: from April 12^th  to May 31th, 2016.

Organizer: 7 Summits Club.

The film crew of Channel One studio RD Valdis Pelsh will take part in the expedition and to continue filming that started last year.

The expedition is supported by the Russian Mountaineering Federation, the Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing in Moscow and Red Fox company.

Information about the project and participating:

Seven women from Russia are taking part in the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition in 2016. This has never been and probably never will. The project turns out unique.

Members:

1. Liana Chabdarova - made 6 of 7 summits of the World and all the 7 volcanoes. She pretend to be  the first Balkar (Elbrus region)  woman climbed Mount Everest.

2. Irena Kharazova - climber on 5 of the 7 summits.

3. Marina Gevorkyan - media manager, general director of "Snob" project and an experienced climber, will attempt to climb the North Col (7000 m).

4. Nadezhda Voskresenskaya - more than 10 years in mountais, will attempt to climb the North Col of Everest (7000m).

5. Christina Kozlova - Director and producer of the film crew.

       Director-producer, executive producer at RD Studio.

6. Elena Abramova - the daughter of Alexander Abramov will attempt to climb the North Col of Everest (7000m)

7. Ludmila Korobeshko - two-times Everest summiter, two-times Seven Summits

Alex Abramov - expedition leader

Sherpas Team

Gala evening of the 7 Summits Club, dedicated to the departure of the expedition "Everest - 2016"

 The 7 Summits Club invites all March 31 (Thursday), beginning at 20.00

 Since 2003, we have organized 12 expeditions to Everest, and this year it will be a 14th expedition. All were led by Alex Abramov. This year we have 26 members.

On this evening:

- We remember all our Everest expedition, from 2003 to 2015;

- Participants of those expeditions themselves will talk about;

- We present the team of Everest in 2016;

- We present the 1st Russian women's expedition to Mount Everest;

- We listen songs, play a lottery, chat with friends etc...

Address: Moscow, Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya, 7

Metro Prospekt Mira

In early April our next Everest expedition will  start, as usual led by Alexander Abramov. We return to the highest mountain in the world, the most desired climbing object after the terrible disaster, earthquake, 2015. In some ways, this season will be unusual, something familiar. Our team will be the largest on the northern slopes, we traditionally put most comfortable, beautiful camp, we will do everything to succeed.

  You will learn details of the expedition from the head, six-time climber on Everest Alexander Abramov. He will present the team, tell about the features of the current season. That, for the first time as part of our big event will be run purely female team led by Lyudmila Korobeshko. And also we will be able to communicate with the crew RD studio of Valdis Pelsh, which will continue its work on the filming of the movie for the First Russian TV Channel.

Address: Bol Pereyaslavskaya d. 7 Shop "Active Life".

March 31 ... Beginning at 20.00

And also you will be able to listen to reports on the climbing season 2015-2016 in the Southern Hemisphere. Our guides will talk about climbing in Antarctica, South America, Australia and Africa. We will introduce you to new projects, new programs coming summer season in the northern hemisphere. Come, you will find the atmosphere of companionship and a small treat from the 7 Summits Club.

March 16th, 2016  the board of Russian Mountaineering Federation formally endorsed the first women expedition to Everest from Russia.

This year's 7 women from Russia take part in the Everest expedition, and first time in the history. And probably  it never will be later. So the project turns out unique.

Dates of the expedition:  from April 12^th  to May 31th, 2016.

RMF Board Meeting

Project Organizer - 7 Summits Club, with the support of RMF, FAiS Moscow, Red Fox company.

The expedition will be filmed film by a crew of Channel One, namely by  RD studio of Valdis Pelsh

Project Manager - Lyudmila Korobeshko - 2-times Mount Everest summiter.

 Team's coach Alexander Abramov, the leader of expedition - 6-times Mount Everest summiter.

Alex and Luda:  the couple of recordsmen. The only family in the world, in which husband and wife twice fulfilled the program "Seven Summits". The only couple twice climbed to the top of Mount Everest together.

All Team members will be announced on March 31th  at the annual meeting (party) of the members of the  7 Summits Club.

October 29 (Thursday), beginning at 19.00. Next Thursday we will start a course of theoretical training on mountaineering. The first will be six time Everest summiter Alexander Abramov.

"How to climb Mount Everest." Beginning at 19.00
Address: Bolshaya Pereyaslavskaya 7.

Alexander (Alex) Abramov has organized 17 Himalayan expeditions, 12 - on Everest.

We were treated by the ordinary people who never go to the mountains, to help them to climb Everest. And now, after the Hollywood film, it has become a common issue: could untrained novice climb the top of the World? Although the answer is obvious to us, but it requires clarification ....

Alexander Abramov believes that the top of Everest is available to any healthy person!
Everest is the scene of specific mountaineering, and now it may be reached by climbers of different levels of training.

ROMAN REUTOV: It’s not a secret that this spring, we have organized an expedition to mount Everest from the North side, in conjunction with «7 Summits Club», «RD Studio», «RedFox» and «Yandex». The expedition was stopped in the middle, due to an earthquake magnitude of 8 – We were lucky that nobody from our Expedition was hurt. We were forced to evacuate. Despite this, we managed to create a panorama of a 19km route on the way from Base Camp (5100m) to Advanced Base Camp (6500m).
For the First Time everybody can pass this scenic mountainous route without exposing themselves to any danger.
Panoramas are published in advance of the film "Everest" coming out in cinemas on 24 September 2015.

A special page dedicated to panoramas is located at – http://yandex.ru/promo/everest.

Panoramas themselves you can easily find using this link – http://maps.yandex.ru/-/CVgTfJ3G.

Special blog link - http://blog.yandex.ru/post/98038/

As many already know, because of the earthquake in Nepal, Everest this season has been closed. Our expedition had to abandon the climb and the film crew to interrupt the work on the film. Mountaineers have belief in this respect: Everest rarely let climb for the first time ...

But we are pleased to inform you that, despite all the difficulties, we will return to Everest next spring. And in the autumn of 2016, our film about the conquest of the highest mountain in the world will be screening on Channel! Russian TV…
And while see the trailer from already made footage.

In the morning in Delhi – a day already in a festive Moscow! So we have a double celebration. Our team came back, all intact and healthy. All  have unscheduled free time, it is - great! And the Chinese government has extended permits for Everest over the next three years. Long live the Sino-Russian friendship! It is rest to hope that Everest replaced an anger at the mercy to any innocent climbers.

Delhi: all free

Moscow!

During the farewell party on May 2th suddenly heavy snow threw, the wind blew but we are in tent an had great drunk and overdance. It was great! And in the morning we saw a snow-covered sunny camp – as a nature has made us a gift for our departure:

The team of the "7 Summits Club", Valdis Pelsh with his videoteam, and the organizers and members of the remaining 13 expeditions from the Tibetan side were in a difficult situation: CTMA (Sino-Tibetan mountaineering association) closed Everest and all the other mountains of Tibet for the whole spring season 2015.

In the past it was in 2008, during the Olympic Games in Beijing - but that was the planned closure; China urgently closes the mountain for the first time. So we are all faced with unexpected insurmountable difficulty. Well, nothing special, we packed up and went home.

According to recent reports, the number of victims of the earthquake in Nepal has exceeded seven thousand men; our Nepalese partners believe that the government underestimates the numbers three times, therefore, it is about twenty thousand dead - an enormous figure. Tremors continue, in these conditions it is possible to say the same words as Alex Abramov: "You want to the mountain or you want stay alive?".

Today in the base camp of Club of 7 Summits Club there was a significant event. We called its “farewell party”. We were tired to live in uncertainty, and today, at last, people relaxed. And at last, the sufficient attention was paid to girls.

As hit of evening, oxygen cocktail “for free”.

The last 3 days, our team have experienced big turmoils . In the beginning from the earthquake and death of a large number of people in Nepal. Then from understanding that our Everest expedition comes to an end.
For the majority of us, this ascenst was the biggest dream of the last years. And the spent time and finance can't be returned.
But now an understanding of correctness of this decision comes to us. Decisions on cancellation of all climbs by the Chinese authorities in Tibet in this season is right.

 First, the moral factor doesn't allow to go for climbing “among” thousands of lost people.
Secondly, the safety issue of ascent isn't rather defined. Tremors still proceed, as well as falls of stones and ice on the mountain and in the upper camps.
Thirdly, other expeditions already started being curtailed. The Chinese team and team on preparation of a route already left base camp. To be alone on the Everest for us it would be very difficult.

Not without regret, but with understanding of a situation, we declare the end of our expedition on Everest. And tomorrow, on May 2th, we will organize "Farewell party" for all big base camp. And the day after tomorrow, on May 3, we begin our far way home.
As the boundary cities of Jangmu and Kodari are destroyed, our way passes through Lhasa. From where all of us will depart on May 6th to Katmandu.
Best regards, everybody!
And with a holiday on May 1!

Abramov Alexander and Everest team 2015.

19 day, April 28, BC (5 200 m), day of rest

Source: blog of Evgeny Karyakin: everest-2015.blogspot.ru

Today, tomorrow and the day after tomorrow there will be planned rest days in the BC after the ABC. We spend it in the internet tent reading the news about the horrible disaster in Nepal and in the Himalayas. The situation with the continuation of the ascent is unclear; there is a lot of conflicting rumors. Leaders of other expeditions come to our camp to talk with Alex Abramov, share gossip, bring and drink alcoholic beverages. The mood at all, in General, is rather depressed.

If you take the dry residue from gossip and rumors, so far there is no concrete. We have no official Chinese statements of authorized persons until now. Leaders of expeditions await of arrival of a big sports boss from Lhasa, it is possible that after his arrival appears some understanding of the situation, or probably not. When we get the big boss is also unknown.

Alex Abramov gives a Skype interview with the Russian media directly from the sun, Valdis Pelsh – by phone, Bogomolov – by e-mail.

On the Internet there are a whole bunch of distorted and just invented informational messages. Importantly, none of the Russian trekkers, hikers and climbers who were in Nepal during the Catastrophe, was not injured... This is important – there were a lot of friends in different places;

Thank God that all living things!

Currently we can only sit, to enjoy nature and to wait for further developments.

Author: Jack Karyakin

A Message From Denis Provalov. Everest base camp from the North ( Tibet). The expedition of 7 summits club.

Dear friends! Just few minutes we are descended from ABC (6400). I hasten to reassure you. With me and our group, all right, we all are alive, no injuries.

1. On Everest expedition from the North. Today our guide Noel Hanna called. He is now in the base camp with the second group. Today there was an aftershock in B.c... But that's okay. No one was hurt. The camp and the route are at a safe distance from a possible way of rockfalls and avalanches.

They decided not go in the middle camp as previously planned, to wait for the first group.
The first group with guides Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin and Denis Provalov came out today from the camp at the altitude of 5800 meters into the camp of ABC at 6400 meters. They are also OK. Tomorrow they will descend back to the base camp.

2. The group of Vladimir Kotlyar on Island Peak today in Pheriche has assisted in evacuating of wounded from the base camp of Mount Everest. They have everything in order. Their journey will continue tomorrow

A message from Vladimir Kotlyar >>>>>>

3. A new group led by a guide Artem Rostovtsev flew this morning from Kathmandu to Lhasa. Also, all according to plan. In Tibet, there no great destruction, the situation is calm.

4. Our office in the centre of Tamel (7 Summits Adventures) suffered from the earthquake. All employees are alive and well. They are working from home or from their tents :(

Hello!  This is Alex Abramov, from Tibet, from an the 7 Summits Club expedition on Everest. Today, in Nepal has been a very strong earthquake. The echoes of this disaster were on our side, Tibetan, where is our expedition. All is good here, just several avalanches have come down and somewhere there were rockfalls...

... But otherwise, all is well, we are alive and healthy, sending greetings to family and friends. In Kathmandu all situation is worse, theu said, many victims, destroyed buildings. But also, we contacted with our group which are on the Nepalese side - Island's Peak, the second group in Tibet. All things there are good, so don't worry. They are safe.

We have not very good weather, snow is coming. Goodbye!