Tibet - Page 12

The first outing to the altitude of 5800 meters is usually the hardest.

For the first time the team wears backpacks, and it is hard after the long and heavy jeeps trip. We begin walking on a broken yaqui trail. There is a lot of snow all around. The locals don't remember so much snow. A lot of snow is as on the trail, as on the slopes.

After 7 hours, the team from Basic (5200m) came to an intermediate (Middle) camp.

There is a comfortable accommodation: warm dining tent, warm tents, warm sleeping bags. The camp stands on the crest of the moraine, and all the wind flow around. The night went well, in the morning all were able to wake up :)

Next evening, already in the Base camp we inaugurated our club tent. It is a hemisphere of 12 meters in diameter. Inside there are: the TV, billiards, table tennis, library.

Now almost nobody from members gets ill. But Oleg Pimenov and Liana Chavdarova went down for prevention. They have a mild cough and to restore health, it is useful to stay down in the warmth of a kilometer below the Base camp.

Hello! This is Alexander Abramov from Tibet. Yesterday we had excursions to the Palace of the Dalai Lama Potala. Me and Mingma with the other guides were doing different sorts of purchases, Internet settings and all sorts of other things. Today the hosts said goodbye to us and our team drove 7 hours to the town of Shigatse, where we settled in a very nice hotel. Here we shall buy blankets, pillows, for base camp, in order to live comfortably over the next forty days. And tomorrow we will go further.

By the way, yesterday a dinner was held with the leadership of the Tibetan mountaineering. We discussed, among others, how to fix ropes on Everest. And also we discussed a visit the Tibetan climbers in Russia, to be held in June. The 7 Summits Club invites several representatives of the Tibetan mountaineering, with whom we want to climb Elbrus.
Goodbye! To the following information! Bye!

Alex Abramov: 

The entire team flew to Lhasa. Immediately mountain sickness struck us, so that the flag was upside down...
Now all feel good. Tomorrow a day in Lhasa. Need to do a lot of things.

On April, 10th eleven mountaineers will start their expedition to the top of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8848 m). Professional guides will accompany the group, because most of the participants will climb the highest peak on Earth for the first time. Climbing fans will have a unique opportunity to watch the ascent which will form the basis of a documentary with a working title of “The gene of altitude, or how to summit Everest”.

Vlad Moroz on the summit of Ama Dablam with Mt. Everest behind (L)

TV producer Valdis Pelsh will join the expedition to lead a team of photographers to capture the trials of climbing the Northeast Ridge route to the top of Everest from the early stages of preparation near the base of the mountain, ascending to base camp, acclimatization at the various camps along the route through the final push to the top. The film will tell the story of the team’s conquest of Everest and any related rescue activity.

Modern technology will allow a complete video record of the climb. Each climber will have an action camera, so no interesting event will remain behind the scenes. Three cameramen, two of which are professional mountaineers, will focus on recording the climb. With a dedicated video team the expedition promises to deliver many unique shots, both beautiful and emotional, since each mountaineer will face several physical and psychological trials.

Expedition team members:

Alexander Abramov – mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the 7 Summits Club, expedition leader

Ivan Dusharin – mountaineer, Master of Sport, International Class, Snow Leopard title holder, vice-president of the Russian Mountaineering Federation

Vladislav Moroz – mountaineer, Master of Sport, director of the Red Fox company

Denis Provalov – speleologist and mountaineer, Master of Sport, president of the Moscow Federation of Sporting Speleology. In 2013 he set a World record for altitude differential of 10,998 m, between climbing to the top of a mountain and then descending to an underground cave.

This expedition is organized with support of the 7 Summits Club and RD Studio.
Red Fox and Zamberlan are equipment partners of this Everest Expedition

Yesterday our team arrived in Kathmandu.

After a short briefing and “distribution of elephants”, shirts and jackets, all met at the party. Russian Ambassador to Nepal Sergey Velichkin came to meet and greeted us.

By tradition, the party was held in the chambers of the former Royal Palace, in the end of it there was a disco. And why not? All team members have long been on planes, and wanted to move.

Today our entire team is invited to the Embassy.

Fully photo gallery of our Everest expedition.....

For more than 10 years of experience in the Everest region, Alexander Abramov and 7 summits Club have formed a great team of staff, mainly composed of persons Sherpas nationality. These are our true friends, who love their work, friendly and always willing to help. Of course, there were different cases in different situations, sometimes misunderstanding, there have been mistakes. One thing is clear, every year the team is working better and better. Thanks to our Nepalese chef Mingma Gelu Sherpa!

Traditional Everest expedition of the 7 Summits Club will be held in April and May of 2015. The route from the north, from Tibet, by the North-East Ridge via the North Col. Logistics will be provided by a Nepalese company 7 Summits Adventure, Director - Gelu Sherpa Mingma. Alexander Abramov as usul is the expedition leader. During the expedition, a crew of "Studio RD" (head Valdis Pelsh) takes video  materials for a documentary with the working title "How to get to Mount Everest."

Members of the expedition:

1 PIMENOVS Olegs 03.09.1967 LVA Riga, Latvia
2 MENSKII Anatolii 14.05.1975 RUS Berezovka vill., Tumenskaya region
3 MURAVEV Kirill 11.07.1971 RUS Leningrad
4 CHABDAROVA Liana 24.08.1982 RUS Nalchik / Moscow
5 KARYAKIN Evgeny 19.01.1974 RUS Saratov
6 REUTOV Roman 24.04.1984 RUS Moscow
7 IULIN Andrei 21.09.1975 RUS Chelyabinsk
8 LETHEO Thale 07.09.1981 ZAF Lonehill, S. Africa
9 SALOVA Irina 27.07.1977 RUS Yverdon, Swizerland
10 MOROZ Vladislav 15.06.1962 RUS Leningrad
11 VOSKRESENSKAIA Nadezhda 11.12.1965 RUS Moscow (до Северного Седла)
12 GEVORKYAN Marina 10.06.1978 RUS Moscow (восхождение на перевал Лакпа Ри).

A crew of "Studio RD"

1 PROVALOV Denis 29.03.1969 RUS Moscow
2 KOZLOVA Kristina 04.12.1977 RUS Moscow
3 KUBASOV Alexander 12.01.1982 RUS Klimovsk, Moscow region
4 DUSHARIN Ivan 01.11.1947 RUS Moscow
5 PELSH Valdis 05.06.1967 RUS Moscow

Guides

1 ABRAMOV Alexander 16.01.1964 RUS Moscow (6 Everest summits)
2 LARIN Sergei 25.06.1959 RUS Tver, Moscow region (6 Everest summits)
3 HANNA Noel Richmond 18.01.1967 IRL Dromara, N. Ireland (7 Everest summits)
4 BOGOMOLOV Sergei 23.02.1951 RUS Saratov (2 Everest summits, 13 eight-thousanders )

The first team  arrived in Kathmandu: Alexander Abramov, Sergei Larin and Vladimir Kotlyar.

Here we were met by Gelu Sherpa Mingma, our permanent sirdar, and my daughter Lena.
We found out that tomorrow a big strike begins in Nepal, which will last 3 days. Therefore, our Sherpas, who prepared an expedition for a couple of months, tonight with the entire load, 5 trucks, go to the border of Tibet and tomorrow will cross the border.
Yay! The expedition begins!

Yesterday at our club a meeting of participants and guides future Everest expedition took place. The tasks of the expedition will include not only the climbing itself and the preparation for it, but part (help) in the filming of a documentary about this mountain. Command of the 1st Russian TV channel under the leadership of Valdis Pelsh will shoot this film. Valdis told us about the idea of the film and how it will look. Meeting as usual was held in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. All participants continue to train hard, but now knowing more about his role in the expedition...

link to the Everest program 

http://7summits-club.com/programs/all/region_4/country_248/program_30/

Russian climber Evgeny Voronov, 47 y.o.. The city of Perm.

Evgeny Voronov became the first Russian who committed descent from Cho Oyu on a snowboard, for the first time for Russia from the peaks above 8000 meters. Eugene reached the summit of Cho Oyu 8201m in the team of the 7 Summits Club under the direction of Alex Abramov. Then he made ​​a descent on a snowboard to the first camp at an altitude of 6400m (up to stones). The descent was "clean" without the use of fixed ropes (more than 500 m.)

That evening, Eugene went on foot to the camp ABC 5700m, where the team went down day later.

 Alex Abramov: Today, on almost perfect weather, but only at the knee in the snow littered, we climbed Cho Oyu. Everybody. All seven people, and all six Sherpas. There was a small banquet at the top .. Oxygen was enough. We already went down to Camp 1, where to stay for overnight. Now we're going with the first rays of the sun already down to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). And there we go but down. Just go down, down, down to Kathmandu. After 2-3 days, we will find ourselves there.

Hooray! Hooray! We are on top of Cho Oyu, all seven people.

Ekatherina Pozdeyeva – Anatoly Mensky - Kyrill Muraviev - Oleg Pimenov - Alexander Abramov - Georgy Kuzmin - Evgeny Voronov.

Now is the time for Nepal 9-45. We have plenty of time, and with great difficulty climbed to the summit of Cho Oyu. Seven members and six Sherpas.

Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!

And now ..

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from Cho Oyu. (coughing) Our team has reached the height of 7100 meters. Tomorrow we will move to a height of 7500 meters, there it is the last camp, "under the yellow belt camp." And from there tomorrow night we will make an attempt to climb the summit. So on Monday, after lunch, wait for information. And yet here we are fine. This morning it was quite a strong wind, a little for frostbite. Then the wind went away and established a beautiful sunny weather. I wonder what will happen tomorrow. Just in case we decided to start later, at 10 a.m… All members of expedition convey greetings to family and friends! Goodbye!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov, expedition to Cho Oyu. Last night we went out to the summit attack. We are now in the camp 1. It is seven in the morning, the sun still have not lit, it is cold. Today we must rise to the second camp at the height of 7100, where we should spend the night and the next day go to the high camp, and from there, almost immediately, to go to the top. The weather is still good. The sun shines, the wind is not strong. The mood at all alert, very alert - I'll say this. Well, all, be happy!

The team returned after acclimatization climb to the camp 2. It's all right. On the mountain it was very cold, but in general, the conditions of Cho Oyu are favorable for climbing. In recent days, has been made many successful ascents. Hope for success and we ...

From Camp 2 to Camp 1 Eugene Voronov went by snowboard. We all were frozen at Camp 2 and tired as dogs. Only Eugene hovered over the steep slopes like a bird.

The real picture is as follows: the route we have mastered, all got up and spent the night at an altitude of 7100m. All are healthy and ready for a rest before attempting to assault. Now we have three nights to spend in the ABC at 5700m, and then go on the final climb.

The team:

Catherine Pozdeeva (Khanty-Mansiysk), George Kuzmin (Moscow, Russia), Anatoly Mensky (Tyumen), Cyril Muraviev (St. Petersburg) and Oleg Pimenov (Latvia, Russia). Leader: Alex Abramov.

Already 2 days, as our team is resting in the ABC. Today, for the sake of acclimatization, rest and entertainment, we organized cleaning session (subbotnik – Soviet time word). That is, we went out to clean up the garbage in the camp and on the trail.

All were satisfied with the Saturday Day and vowed to clean up at home, so everywhere was clean. Tomorrow we have, the whole team, go to sleep at 7000m.

Today is the great day of the consecration of the camp АВС. All members brought equipment to the altar. The monk came up to our camp. Sanctified all even snowboard. In the evening, Kate and George are making dumplings in honor of the holiday. The Sherpas went to camp 1 and threw a lot of cargo.

On the evening of culinary party. Tomorrow we go up for 2 days. No Communication.

Expedition 7 Summits Club on Cho Oyu. Leader: Alex Abramov.

Climbing from the intermediate camp (5300) in the ABC camp (5700). The ABC camp will be the main location during the expedition.

Leave the Middle camps. The snow begins.

Camp ABC, Sunny and frosty morning

Our Base camp we leave with regret. And so we begin to prepare for a distant way to the ABC camp.

According to reports from the Himalayas, the mountains have still a lot of snow. But on Cho Oyu, the Sherpas have already fixed up ropes to camp 2 at a height of 7300 meters.

Our Base camp we leave with regret. And so we begin to prepare for a distant way to the ABC camp.

According to reports from the Himalayas, the mountains have still a lot of snow. But on Cho Oyu, the Sherpas have already fixed up ropes to camp 2 at a height of 7300 meters.