Asia - Page 4

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club Viktor Volodin:

 Yesterday, on July 4, the Octobrata group in full force safely descended to the First Camp. The weather was favorable for us: it was not very hot and the "Frying pan" was passed under a fresh breeze. A delicious lunch was waiting for us at the camp. There are much more people here.  It snowed all night today and the weather is "not very good" in the morning. Well, we have a rest day.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports:

Today, on July 3, the Octobrata group left the Second Camp for an acclimatization climb towards the summit of Razdelnaya. The weather was windy, but also sunny. The participants feel good. We had a great walk. But after lunch, the snow begins to melt very much and I had to re-trail and fall through. Everyone went down to Camp 2, tired but happy.

A guide of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club Viktor Volodin:

  Today, the group of the 8000 Club "Octobrata" left at one o'clock in the morning in order to acclimatize to Camp 2 on the slopes of Lenin Peak. Next, the plan involves a radial rptation to Camp 3, with two overnight stays in the Second Camp. The weather doesn't spoil us much, it snowed again, we had to trail, even though there was a group in front of us. We arrived at the Second camp at 11 o'clock, but the bad weather continues. It was good that the camp was ready for our arrival. A large tent was set up for us, which is convenient for everyone to gather in.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Good day to all! June 30th is on the calendar. The group of the 7 Summits Club "Octobrata" in full force today made an acclimatization ascent on Yukhin Peak (5130 m). The participants feel good, everyone is happy and satisfied. Tomorrow, according to the plan, is a day of rest and preparation for going to the Second camp. The weather is good from morning to lunch, then a charge of snow, everything is restored in the evening.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Viktor Volodin reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello everyone! Today, the group of the 7 Summits Club "Octobrata" in full health and good mood started from the base camp to the First camp at 4400. The route ran along a good path through the Travelers' pass. Six hours later, without straining, we were there. At the camp, we were greeted with delicious watermelon, melon and a delicious lunch. Everything is very well organized here. After lunch, there was rest and preparation for tomorrow, for a walk on the glacier and snow-ice training sessions.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Today, on June 27, in the morning we were woken up by a loudspeaker with cheerful children's songs. The weather is great and we, the Octobrata group, went together in a row to the acclimatization rotation. As a result, the participants crossed the four thousandth milestone. After lunch, we are preparing for tomorrow's departure to the First Camp.

Victor Volodin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group of the 7 Summits Club "Octobrata" left the glorious and warm city of Osh today and arrived at the Achik-Tash Glade after seven hours of driving. There we were very warmly welcomed and settled in comfortable yurts, with all amenities. The base camp is very conveniently located and well equipped. There is a nice and spacious dining room, and it has delicious food.

In August 2023, a group of the 7 Summits Club, which called itself "Omatikayi", visited the Central Tien Shan with the aim of climbing the summit of Khan Tengri.  The team was led by our guides Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.  On August 22, the group made an attempt to climb on the top of Khan Tengri. Due to the worsening weather (snowfall and strong wind), the only right decision was made to turn around and go down to the assault Camp -3. On August 23, there was a long and dangerous descent down through the so-called "bottleneck" to the southern side of the mountain range. The participants and guides were rewarded with beautiful views of Pobeda Peak and Khan Tengri.

The Omatikayi group made an attempt to climb to the top of Khan Tengri on August 22. As the weather worsened (snowfall and strong wind), the only right decision was made to turn around and go down to the assault Camp -3.

If we had stayed on the slopes for another couple of hours, we would have been hit by a squall wind that tore us off our feet. After the descent, the wind continued all night. Tents were torn. There was enlightenment in the morning, but the strong wind continued.

On August 23, there was a long and dangerous descent down through the so-called "bottleneck". The clouds did not allow us to see those terrible snow eaves that hung over us. A couple of hours and we exhaled, went down to a flat glacier. And then we walked 10 km along the glacier to the base camp on South. And there, finally, delicious food, a warm bed and a view of the beautiful Peak Pobeda (Victory)!!!

On August 24, departure to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek.

Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.

News from Khan Tengri Peak (from August 15). "Greetings to all from the Khan-Tengri base camp from the Omatikayi group! We went down from the acclimatization rotation. We managed to climb up to the level of 6000 meters. Yesterday there was a strong wind on the descent. We felt like flying snakes on the fixed ropes, there was a feeling that the mountain wanted to throw us off its slopes. Today is our day of rest. The sun is shining again."

Guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin.

News from Khan Tengri: Omatikayi Group sends greetings from Khan Base Camp! The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the streams are murmuring, apparently spring has come! Today we worked out the fixed ropes equipment for descent and ascent, learned what a carabine brake is on descent and slow gas on ascent. Everyone feels good. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will go to Camp-1 with an overnight stay. Wait for messages! Guides: Viktor Volodin, Nikita Slotin.

Greetings to all from the Northern Inylchek Base Camp from the team of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 CLUB!

"Yesterday we moved from Bishkek to Karkara. Our road ran along the Chui Valley past the beautiful Issyk-Kul Lake (translated as "hot lake"). Today, our team flew by helicopter to the Khan Tengri base camp. We settled into our comfortable camp, had lunch and dismantled the equipment. Today we are resting, and tomorrow, as an acclimatization, we plan to walk higher to the Camp 1. Congratulations to everyone on the International Mountaineering Day! Group guides: Viktor Volodin and Nikita Slotin".

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! On 22.07.23, the group in full force at 13:30 stood on the peak with a height of 7134 meters. For many, this height has become a personal record, at which none of the participants is going to stop! We left Camp 3 at 2:00. An unpleasant wind was blowing, but the sky was starry, it remained to trust our gut and forecast. At 8:00 we climbed the 6800 "knife", the sun came out, and life immediately got better. The wind died down, and we began to roast our carcasses, slowly wandering to the top. The ascent from the Plateau of Parachutists was not easy, especially these takeoffs, behind which, as you think, there should be a peak, and there turns out to be another takeoff. And here it is!!! The summit! And on the descent, a bonus was waiting for us - a climb from the jumper to the third camp, to the long-awaited tents... And today our team is already at the height of 3600 in the bar.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to all from the slopes of the Pamir mountains from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we actively rested. We went for a walk to the lakes, swam and played a little with pebbles, and also fried potatoes... Tomorrow is another day of rest and, according to the plan, on the night of 19-20, we will go to the second camp.

Nikita Slotin, super-guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

The group "Everything goes according to plan" safely descended to the first camp of Lenin Peak at noon. The third acclimatization rotation is completed. Now rest and wait for the weather. A few days... and for the final assault.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Camp-3 on Lenin Peak, from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! Today we left our cozy dome at 5350 and climbed 6100 in 5.5 hours. The morning turned out to be sunny and hot, but after arriving at the camp it began to snow. After a little rest and eating pilaf and solyanka, we went to the summit of Razdelnaya 6140. We are waiting for the sunset and cooking borscht for dinner. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will descend to the first camp. They promise snowfall.

Nikita Slotin, a guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Hello to everyone from from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! At night we managed to enjoy the starry sky. And today is another sunny day, which means that soon there will be no weather, just for our acclimatization.  But we are not discouraged and are preparing to go out! Today we held ice classes, remembered how to use descenders and jumars correctly. We walked in crampons on slopes of different steepness and learned to work as a single rope. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we go to the second camp, there will be no connection, unless the crazy Internet suddenly breaks through, but we use it to write to our relatives! Wait for news after the descent.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! The weather whispers - go to the mountain! Well, we went - to acclimatize we climbed to the peak of Yukhin 5100. After lunch, we played cards, read books, slept, rested. We also have a generator "dead" in the camp, but this is not a hindrance for us, and the evening disco will take place! Ice climbing classes are planned for tomorrow.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

 Greetings to all from the first camp of Lenin Peak from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! This is where our ascent really begins. Today was a good five-hour walk from the base camp. A little tired, but everyone is happy. The northern slope of the mountain and the peak of 7134 opened in all its glory. Today is the first night at 4300, we are waiting for interesting dreams. Tomorrow, according to the weather and the condition of the participants, we will continue our acclimatization.

Nikita Slotin, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Kyrgyzstan:

Greetings to all from the Lenin Peak base camp from the group "Everything is going according to plan"! In the best traditions of one of our guides, Dmitry, we started the morning with morning exercises and, of course, with coffee. We successfully drove fat marmots and walked along the crest of Petrovsky Peak up to 4000 m. The weather pleases with warmth and sunshine, although it was blowing on the ridge, as always, but not for long! Now we are resting, packing up and preparing for tomorrow's exit to the first camp. They promise the sun! In the evening, there was  a traditional gatherings with a guitar!