Asia - Page 8

Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from the camp 1 under Lenin peak: the Second group met with their leader Alexander Abramov to camp 1 (4400м). It was the 30th of July. Alexander went with the first group after a successful ascent, and the second group had a great acclimatization under the leadership of Valery Myasoedov. All six participants in the second group climbed the peak Yuhina (5100) and at peak (6100). And spent two nights in the camp 5300. Now the second group together with Abramov resting on the 4400 and prepare for the ascent. The assault is scheduled for 4-5 August.

Photos of Natalia Matusova:

Photos of Ivan Pominov from the first group:

Hello,  7 Summits Club! Today, despite the strong wind, rainy weather, all our team members, namely the three guides and six members of the first group, climbed to the summit of Lenin Peak. It was very hard. To be honest, I didn't expect it would be so hard... But the team showed fantastic and everyone, absolutely, went up to the top

I am very happy...

 We climbed by two teams. The first team came exactly at 2 p.m. (Bishkek), the second at about 3.20. Well, in general, everything is fine... all  are alive! Beginning descent down. Once again, congratulations! It was not a very simple mission...

And below we are already waiting for our second group to Lenin Peak. Also six participants, three guide. Let's see what the outcome of this adventure.

All bye everyone! Big thanks to the company "Aksai", for a great service and support. All: guides, link and hopefully not a rescue, not a rescue! See you!

Later: the group successfully descended to the camp 3 at an altitude of 6100.

That's who was part of the heroic group:

Anton Konobeev

Konstantin Lavrentiev

Alexander Logachev

Oleg Pimenov

Ivan Pominov

Ramil Badretdinov

Guides:

Alexander Abramov

Andrey Mishaka

Oleg Turaev

Natalia Matusova wrote on Facebook:

Lenin peak base camp (3800). Meet at the end of the table, just having down from the summit of Lenin peak and had 25 first ascent to this peak, Boris Korshunov. This veteran of nearly 82 years (born 31 August 1935), it is a unique 9-time "Snow leopard".

At the time, Boris participated in biological programs of the Institute of Space Biology and Medicine for detection of possibilities of the human body. In particular: the tolerance of man -60°C in a light suit, with vigorous blowing. So you want to wish to each of us in his 82 preserved health the Snow Leopard, zest for life and active life position!

Hello! This is Alex Abramov from the first camp under Lenin peak. Our entire team of six participants and three guides,  is going tomorrow to start for summit assault . Tomorrow we climb to a height of 5300 meters, to the so-called "Frying Pan". Then we will ascend to camp at 6100 and from there to the summit. The weather is quite good. Yesterday, however, it was snowing, but today it got cold. The Peak opened up, it waiting for us. So after a three day wait for information from us.

Also today our second team arrived in Achik-Tash.  Valeriy Myasoedov is the main guide,  with six members and two local guides. When I go to the top, and I hope I'll go to the top. I'll go down and going to go with this team for the second time.

So we have only  good news. All people feel good. The prognosis is excellent.

Bye everyone! Wait for the news!

This morning we got acquainted with the ancient architecture of the city of Karakol – with a mosque, built in the style of a Chinese pagoda and a wooden Church built without nails. And now we finally go up into the mountains, and we will no longer be connected until return. So we could't show the mountains until return...

 Yesterday our "mega group" in number of 17 people arrived in Bishkek.  Our Plan is to go trekking to the base camp of the legendary peaks Khan-Tengri and Pobeda. But the plan is still far. While we drove all day, ate, slept, bathed in Issyk-Kul...

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition of the 7 summits Club on Lenin peak: Today our group spent the night at the altitude of 5300 m, the so-called "Pan". Basically, all the participants feel good. Now we  are climbing to the Razdelnaya Peak – 6100 meters. The goal is acclimatization. Today in the evening we go down to 5300 and tomorrow to the camp 1. And we will wait for the arrival of the second group. They arrive the 23rd to Osh and 27th our two groups should meet. OK. Good luck with 5800, from peak Lenin!

Hello! Alexander Abramov from the expedition to Lenin peak, from the camp at 4400. Our whole team feels good. Tomorrow we are going to go to the camp at an altitude of 5300 meters. It will be the first real climbing day with crampons and ropes. Weather, frankly, is not good. Today is the first time I saw the summit of peak Lenin. And it is now again closed. Well, after lunch usually is snowing. Even with the thunderstorm. But we will hope for the best. While acclimatization – it is no worry. In a week when we go climbing, we'll see. All is good here: a lovely camp, great food. We all like to treat us just fine. Well, in General, everything is fine, don't worry. Photos can't send as a call via satellite. Mobile communications are not working. The mood is great, the team is good and it is called "ninja Turtles" because we go slow, like turtles. All bye everyone! Until next communication, I hope with 5300!

In preparation for the expedition Everest – 2018, for acclimatization before climbing Lenin peak, our team made a "first ascent" at the peak Grekov, a height of 4000 meters. We named this peak in honor of our friend (Dmitry Grekov – head of the company AK-SAI). This is just gendarme in the crest of Petrovskiy peak. Tomorrow our company goes out of Achik-Tash to the  Camp 1 at the altitude of 4400 meters.

Our team, having driven 6 hours from Osh, came to the camp Achik-Tash.  It is a very comfortable and thoughtful camp of the AK-SAI company. We are all very pleased. Also the weather is bad now. It is raining.

I met hare a lot of friends. Basically they are guides my age ) and younger. Of course, Visily Pivtsov is  in the middle of it. Our team went to the sauna. We have a very good guide named Andrey. The team are friendly. Tents for accommodation are excellent. You can stand in growth. Everything is fine. Tomorrow we will go on Petrovskogo peak.

Alexander Abramov, the leader of the expedition 7 summits Club on Lenin peak: Today our team, all the participants gathered in Osh. We went to the Museum located in the cave. Then climbed the whole mountain Suleimanca. After lunch we visited the famous local market. And we even managed to pack for tomorrow's departure on Lenin peak. Everyone is feeling great. For a while!

So a season of climbing groups of the 7 summits Club on Lenin peak began. This Saturday four members of the first expedition arrived in Osh, they are now in the base camp and started to acclimatization. In total we will have 6 groups, two of them under the leadership of Alexander Abramov.

By the way, you can still join the August group to the ascent program with local guides.

The program

The desire to climb Everest could be understand for almost everybody, that is,  for all normal people. There are a proven way to prepare: to ask the advice of the most important experts. And the best is not just to ask for advice, but go together in the mountains, to gain experience and learn from an experienced comrade necessary knowledge. Next summer we invite you to take part in a unique event - an expedition to Lenin Peak led by the most experienced climber on Everest in Russia, head of the 13 expeditions to the highest peak of the world,  master of sports Alexander Abramov.

The 7 Summits Club president seven times was up at the highest point of Mount Everest. Expedition to Lenin Peak under his guidance specifically planned as a stage of preparation for the ascent to Everest. Do not miss this rare opportunity!

Lenin Peak (Avicenna) - majestic mountain and valuable in itself. It cannot be underestimated, which, however, applies to any mountain. So prepare seriously: Train your body and mind, pick equipment, read literature etc…

Expedition to Lenin Peak under the leadership of Alexander Abramov

PROGRAM (in Russian)

We will also continue the implementation of our standard of climbing to Lenin Peak program under the guidance of our friends, the best guides of the Central Asian republics

PROGRAM (in Russian)

 Nadejda Usovich participated in the expedition to the Lenin peak in early August. The expedition did not achieve its main goal. Due to bad weather conditions the climbers returned home without the summit. Instead, they got a lot of impressions and experience of high-altitude climbing…

 From her diary…

Day 14.

All night the wind was blowing and it was snowing. Since the hour of the night,  groups woke up one by one, exchanging a few words, and, obviously, delayed outing, the weather was bad. By 5 am a group of St. Petersburg climbers ventured to go to the assault, but they have not succeeded to reach the top in this day. There was a strong wind swept up the entire trail all the way and they had to make snow trails knee that takes a lot of strength. Other groups have postponed exit at night. By 7 am established fine weather, the sun was shining and it was even more or less heat. I slept most of the day, compensating for a sleepless night. By 7 pm the weather began to deteriorate again.

Day 15.

All night the wind blew a hellish and snowing. At times it seemed that the tent will take, as the house of Elli. Again, starting with the one in the morning, here and there flashing lights, there were heard a short dialogues and all subsided. I rearranged the alarm for an hour before 5am. Two my halves fought, one wished that the wind abated, and with peace of mind to go down. Another eagerly prayed to the wind ceased, and we finally came to the assault.

 We came out of the tent at 5 am, still a strong wind blew, but the snow had stopped, the view of Peak Lenin was excellent. The clouds were under our feet, and on the horizon, a thin strip of scarlet doing amazing beauty of the sunrise. I noted that some of the tents for the night drifted almost completely. At an altitude somewhere in 6300 could be seen three flashlight, nevertheless there were brave souls who dared to go out today to the assault. As it turned out later, they returned to the camp as early as 10 am, much frostbited.

 The forecast for the next 2 days were given the deterioration, sit next to an altitude of 6100 does not make any sense, and it was decided to begin the descent at 8am. The entire inside of the tent was covered with frost and any awkward movement, with its walls, attacked snowfall. All things were damp, at the feet of piled up a snowdrift. Several tents of our group had to dig out from the outside. It was bitterly cold, while a fixing crampons in fleece gloves, I froze all the.

All members of the group to the question «how are you?» - answered “never again”.

Down we ran almost happily. In camp 2 it was very warm and we stayed there for almost an hour, basking in the sun. This camp offers a great view on the top, I looked up to see around the ridge huge flags - the wind raged there until now, it was clear that to come in that day to the summit would be impossible, would there blew us away like dry leaves from the tin roof. By 3 pm we were down to camp 1, the descent took place without incident, though it was slow and tiring. By 5 pm again it threw the snow, but here, in a huge tent, its knock on the tent even gave some sense of comfort…

This year, climbers of the  7 Summits Club took part in four expeditions to Lenin Peak. Two have already been completed and two are underway. We wish the participants a successful ascent and safe descent! Congratulations to Natalia Kurgapkina - the first our climber in this season that reached the summit!

July 9^th  the first group of the 7 Summits Club fly in the Pamirs. A total of this season it  will be four groups  - a record number for our company. Lenin Peak - this is a great opportunity to really feel the altitude of the first step to the expeditionary mountaineering. Route at all its stages and components of the long hours worked by our hosting partners, in terms of logistics - everything clearly and without problems. But the decisive factor is still personal involvement of each person. The victory, if the Mountain let, will be a personal victory for everyone.

To credited ascent of Mount Abu Ibn Sina and get a certificate, you need to provide photos with a bust of Vladimir Lenin, which is on top of this mountain. This picture has been successfully done by a team of the Seven Summits Club on July 27 at 14:00 local time. At the top were: Valera, Dima, Maxim and I, Sergei. High altitude has made with our team very tough selection. Lena was waiting in the camp at 4400. Liana took a wise decision not to continue climbing in the camp of 6100, due to the worsening of bronchitis. Michail decided to stop climbing after a strong cold wind and snow hurt his eyes.

12-hour climb from Camp 6100 to the summit has required a lot of energy. And the return was very tense. But now everything is behind us, the entire team is at the base camp, at 3660, on the grass. All is well. Summiters are happy. Not summiters are happy that managed to maintain health. Best regards! Sergei Larin.

Hello, Seven Summits!

News from Pamir. Our group spent three nights in the camp on 5300. We waited for weather. Now there was a probability of a weather window and we move to the camp on 6100, at top of Razdelnaya Peak. Everything is normal …. At us everything is normal. All members feel well. Only one - Lena remained in camp on 4400. It is necessary to pay her tribute. Her speed movement is a little bit more slowly than ours. And she offered the interests, for the sake of interests of group.

I will contact where it will possible.

Sergey Larin

Sergei Larin:

Hi, Seven Summits! Take the information from the expedition to the peak of Avicenna. Quickly flew two days of rest in the base camp at an altitude of 3600. And now we are advancing upward, already for climbing  assault. The weather is constantly changing, the weather is unstable, so we had to wait a  “window”  in the upper camps.

The 7 Summits Club guide Sergey Larin reports: .... Now we have 6:53 a.m.. We go down from the camp on Razdelnaya Peak, from an altitude of 6100 meters. There we held a successful acclimatization overnight. Our whole team feels good. The only thing - Elena has not participated in the outing, she is now in the camp at 4400. She is still normal, having no signs of altitude sickness. Just her body needs more time to acclimatize.

Up 6000 meters, the weather turned bad, now there was a strong wind - even blew off some tents. But we are in good health and went down, to rest. After a rest, we'll have to make way to the summit. Today we will try to go down as low as possible. Best regards!

Pictures by Andrey Almazov

Dmitry Tomilin after climbing Elbrus went on an expedition to Lenin Peak, led by Sergei Larin. In the group - six members, who all met in the city of Osh. July 13th they had their first acclimatization. Everything OK. Notes read in Russian.