Asia - Page 9

Hi, Seven Summits! It Sergei Larin says. Today, the expedition to the peak of Abu Ibn Sina, or Lenin Peak began. Six members of the 7 Summits Club arrived at the base camp Achik-Tash, which is located at an altitude of 3600 meters. All are doing well, all is well. The only thing - in Kyrgyzstan is expected to heat waves. In the coming days we will have acclimatization and 2-3 nights stay at the base camp Achik-Tash. By!

 A group of the 7 Summits Club continues to acclimatize, everything goes according to plan, it's okay. However, Andrey Podolyan is on his way home, as he went already to the summit and came down. This is normal, since Andrey arrived at the Tien Shan from Lenin Peak, that is, with a good acclimatization. 7 Summits Club congratulates him with the SUMMIT!

Sergey Bogomolov after climbig Lenin Peak is going to conquer Peak Pobeda (7439 m) in the Tien Shan  Mountains. From Osh he flew to Bishkek and then went by car to Karkara, a base camp of the Central Tien-Shan mountaineering camps. The weather is very bad and Sergey is waiting for helicopter in Karkara.

It was only one chance, only one day with good weather.

The weather forecast was very bad, but in the night it became clear that conditions may be mild and more convenient for climb. About 30 climbers started early in the morning and most of them reached the summit of Lenin Peak. Among then members of the 7 Summits Club expedition led by Sergey Bogomolov.

A long period of bad weather changed plans of a group of climbers of the 7 Summits Club led by our guide, a famous Russian high altitude climber Sergey Bogomolov. Two from three climbers cancelled the program due health and weather problems. Now Sergey with a client stay at the third camp at 6100, waiting for good weather.

A group of the 7 Summits Club led by Sergey Bogomolov finished the first part of the pgrogram. It was acclimatization period, they reached an altitude 6100 meters and went down to the base camp. See some pictures from Sergey...

The group from the 7 Summits Club led by Sergey Bogomolov went down to the base camp. They finished their aclimatization period. Everything is OK, after some rest the team lpan to climb Lenin Peak.

The group led by Victor Bobok successfully reached the summit of Lenin Peak. Here are some photos from this expedition. Summiters: Andrew Filkov, Alexander Morozov, Lilia Boguchara and Victor Bobok.

Our guide Victor Bobok reports from the slopes of Lenin Peak. Today at 2:00 p.m. the full group reached the summit of Lenin Peak. Now they go down. Everything is OK!

After breakfast we went out on the slopes of the peak Petrovsky, past the cemetery of climbers and paragliders, and paying tribute to thos brave and selfless people. Ahead was a steep grassy slopes and talus. We were able to gain a height of 400 meters in 2 hours, in a good pace without shortness of breath and other signs of lack of acclimatization. We went up into several smaller peaks in a scree ridge. Above 4000m the weather turned bad. The descent took place without incident under the falling snow, but at an acceptable visibility. Everything goes according to plans and with absolutely right acclimatization.

With regards to our family and friends!

Igor Pohvalin, Andrew Filkov, Alexander Morozov, Lilia Boguchara and Victor Bobok.(guide of the 7 Summits Club)

Now Denis Urubko went to Italy to climb rocks, to pedal mpuntainbike along the Albino valleys and training for upcoming summer season. After the first winter ascent to the summit above 8000 meters in Karakoram - on Gasherbrum-2, Denis and his wife had visited his parents, who live on Sakhalin Island.

Upcoming summer Denis and his friend Boris Dedeshko plan to climb Pobeda Peak (7439 m) along a new route. In 1982, a team of army mountaineers from Kazakhstan led by Vlad Smirnov climbed the North Face along a winding route, which is shaped like the letter S. They named it  “Dollar. " Urubko and Dedeshko will try to climb by a new, direct route on this part of the face. A group of young climbers from Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, who train under the guidance of Urubko will climb at this time the classic route on Pobeda Peak from the West. Italian climber Tamara Lunger plans to join this team.

Denis wants to start at the beginning of July climbing new routes on Przewalski Peak (6400 m) and Grudzinski Peak (6350 m). Then climb Khan-Tengri from the North and attempt a new route on Pobeda. “In the meantime, I'm in Italy, and here I was greeted as a hero. Sometimes it even becomes uncomfortable. Well, who am I for these guys from the valleys of Lombardy? Here, I am always known, invited, embraced, interviewing people with great respect for climbs that I did, congratulated on our victory in winter on Gasherbrum ... just brought to tears. "

Our friend Gleb Sokolov have similar plans. This famous Russian climber from Novosibirsk goes now to Kanchenjunga He also intends to open new route on Pobeda via "Dollar". Two his friends Vitaly Gorelik and Alexander Kirikov will be in his team. It should also be a direct route.

Let's see who are lucky, we hope - both teams.

Yesterday, on Sunday, a group of the 7 Summits Club arrived in Alma-Ata. On the same day we climbed to the top of Kok-Tobe (1130m), which is located directly on the edge of town. The expedition began - its goal is an ascent of Mount Khan Tengri. A Guide of group - Ludmila Korobeshko, members - Alexander Viktorov Sergey Schekoldin, Andrey Julin. Near the top of the Kok-Tube we photographed with the Beatles, which is there in the form of sculpture. Then we had lunch at a local restaurant.

We had breakfast on Monday already in the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek. A dinner was on the shore of beautiful lake Issyk-Kul. In the evening we hope to be in Karkara, the starting point from which shall be airlifted to the base camp on the glacier Northern Inylchek.

Maps: click to enlarge

Members of the 7 Summits Club are also on the way to other seventhousanders of the Central Asia. Also at the beginning of the route. Victor Sedov, arrived at the foot of Lenin Peak, successfully overcoming an obstacle, called the town of Osh. In his post, he inform hat now the situation is calm. Valery Miasoedov went to Tajikistan, to climb Korjenevskaya Peak. He is in Jirgital Village now, already the fourth day, in anticipation of a helicopter into a base camp at The Glade of Moskvina. Approximately 100 people from different countries are also waiting for a helicopter. The bad news is that all are in complete ignorance, and when that happens.