Everest(8848) - Page 6

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

 The little holidays have passed. Several trekking groups passed through our Base Camp. 50 people exactly. Not counting numerous friends and members of the 7 Summits Club. All this time the team was resting down the valley. The wind was at the summit of 50-85 km per hour all the days. Clouds raced across the sky like torn "Crabs".  And now our prolonged rest is coming to an end. The wind has weakened.

From 6 to 12^th of May we warmed up in loggias and ate from the belly. Everyone was able to recover and overcome the cough. The whole team is healthy and ready to go. Now that's it: the last stage of the expedition begins. Climbing the summit of Everest. The plan was approved.

On the 12th we fly to BC.

13th and 14th preparation.

On the 15th, Camp 2. 6400m.

On the 16th, Camp 3. 7100m.

on the 17th, Camp 4 - The South Col 7900.

On the 18th, the Assault on the summit of Mount Everest 8848.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team is resting at the Rivendell Hotel, which is located at an altitude of 3800. We met the Makalu team. They celebrated Igor Smirnov's birthday and the Victory Day May 9. Fry The Potatoes. And we celebrate the release of the book by Luda Korobeshko "The High Altitude Gene 2. A woman's look".

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

  Greetings to all from the team "We are just  tourists" of the 8000 Club! Our second rotation has finally ended and today after lunch we returned to the base camp! This time we overcame the Khumbu icefall 2 hours faster — in just 5 hours, which we consider a very good indicator of successful acclimatization. When we arrived at Camp 1 on 6100, the weather was beautiful and sunny. We managed to dry things and arranged a nap at this height in one thermal underwear — how much the tents warmed up.

 The next morning we had to postpone our exit a little because of the increased wind. But we reached 6400 in three hours. Our Sherpas greeted us with hot chicken soup, delicious baked potatoes and pizza.

   Yesterday was the most difficult psychologically and physically day for this rotation — the climb to 7,100. All night long, the wind ruffled our tents, preventing us from having a full rest. In the morning, gusts reached 45 km/h, then the wind subsided a little and we were able to get out of the second camp higher.

We walked under the wall for about two hours, all the time driven by the wind, which did not abate for a second. At the same time, the sun was shining all day, but it was very, very cold.

 It's nice that there were few people who wanted to spend Monday morning as actively — there were no queues on fixed ropes. We spent a lot of effort fighting the wind, but in the end we reached the desired level of 7100. It wasn't easy.

 At night, the tents were shaking again, making it difficult to sleep. In the morning we waited until the gusts subsided a little, and ran down to the Base Camp.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Yesterday, our team, having completed the 2nd acclimatization rotetion, flew to Namche Bazaar for a rest.  Here, at an altitude of 3600 meters, we have planned to spend 4 nights. Everything that was and will be in Namche will remain in Namche. In the meantime, watch photos and videos from acclimatization and with helicopter flights.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

All namaste from the 8000 Club team "We are just tourists!" The rest days in Namche Bazaar have come to an end. Today the weather finally got better and we took the first flight to Base Camp at 6 am.   Now the weather in the camp is clear and sunny. Tomorrow morning we go to the second rotation: according to the plan, we spend the night in camp 1 at 6100, then go to camp 2 at 6400, the next day we go up to camp 3 at 7100, go down to 6400, spend the night and then descend to the base. We will be out of touch for 4 days.

The rest in Namche and the altitude drop definitely benefited all participants: we are rested and got full of energy for new feats.  Last night we held an informal meeting of the 7 Summits Club in a pub. It so happened that about 35 participants of our Nepali programs turned out to be in Namche Bazaar at the same time!  In the evening we gathered in a pub, hung our flag in front of the entrance, turned on Russian music and connected a projector with the broadcast of the film "The Height Altitude Gene".

The evening was attended by members of a huge trekking group going to the Everest BC under the leadership of Sergey Avtomonov, members of Nikita Slotin's VIP group, future Everest climbers of the 7 Summits Club and 8000 Club teams. As well as the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov and our legendary Sergey Bogomolov!

The evening turned out to be very emotional! We got acquainted, talked, sang songs to the guitar, danced and played billiards!

Today everyone went on the route, we hope that we will still have time to cross paths with the guys on May 9 in BC.

The members of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club are on the second, final acclimatization rotation. At this time, the head of the expedition, Alexander Abramov, is at the base camp and supervises the preparatory work for the upcoming assault on the summit of Mount Everest.

Alex Abramov:  Today is the day of preparation for the ascent in the BC of Everest. Food for high-altitude camps. For each day, for each participant, a package with food. The same was considered and planned to supply  oxygen. Tents and everything you need. Tomorrow our team will fly to Namche, where they will spend 4 nights to recover.  On May 10th, return to BC and on the 12th, the start of the ascent.

While we relax.

Team "Masala Tim"

Guide Alex Abramov

Doctor Andrey Selivanov

BC manager Elena Abramova.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The team of climbers of the Everest of the 7 Summits Club reached the Second Camp at an altitude of 6400m today as part of the second acclimatization rotation. Plans to spend the night here. Tomorrow the team is expected to go to Camp-3 7100m to complete the acclimatization program. It's snowing now, but good weather is expected tomorrow.

Then the team is scheduled to descend to Namche Bazaar for a rest and prepare for the final climb to the top of the world, Mount Everest. The ascent is planned for the period from May 17 to May 25.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the 8000 Club team "We are just tourists"!  After the first rotation, we decided to recover for a couple of days and go down to Namche Bazaar for a rest. The weather did not allow us to leave for two days, but yesterday a helicopter still took us to the capital of the Sherpas! How nice it is to go down 2000 m below! So many smells and sounds! Delicious food, hot water and heated sheets — everything you need for a good rest!  Today we met in Namche our big trekking group going to the BC of Everest.

We plan to fly back to the base the day after tomorrow, gaining strength before the second rotation.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Today, on May 2, the team is quietly preparing for a new exit. Tomorrow at 3 am we will start for camp-1 6100m. The plan is to climb to Camp 3 at 7100m in 3 days and then descend to Base Camp on May 6th.  On May 7th, the team will fly to Namche Bazaar for a vacation.  And the ascent is scheduled for May 12-13.  Today, the Cats team, led by Artem Rostovtsev, came to visit. Cats turned out to be models, so we temporarily postponed our men's classes. A game of chess and cards. It's a pity, but at 2 a.m. we leave the Base Camp. The weather is good.

Today our friends, Everest climbers Igor Demyanenko and Jamila Murtayzina also came. It was a good meeting. Our Base Camp is turning into a Noah's Ark. Not a day without new guests.  Another good news. Sergey Bogomolov was discharged from the Hospital. And he's flying to Lukla tomorrow.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the team "We are just tourists" of the 8000 Club!  Our team successfully completed the first rotation and today returned to our warm and cozy base camp! We spent one night at 6100 and one at 6400.

The climb to the first camp (6100) took 9.5 hours. This year, the Khumbu icefall does not look as intimidating as in the past, there are much fewer difficult ice walls and unpleasant areas, everything is passable. On the way to the camp, we met the team of Alex Abramov.  In the afternoon after the climb, happy and contented, went to bed and slept almost until evening.

The climb from 6100 to 6400 (Camp 2) takes about 5 hours. Camp-2 is already more comfortable. We were fed a three-course lunch, we were accommodated in tents for one person.

The minimum plan is fulfilled — we made two high-altitude overnight stays. We woke up early today and ran downstairs.

Now we are sitting happily at dinner and discussing all our adventures!

Vitaly Lazo:  And again, greetings from the Base Camp at 5300! Yesterday Anton and I came down from Camp 3, from the acclimatization rotation. We also met blue ice, and stones were flying — but everything is fine with us, and we even went skiing.

This downhill skiing was the most exciting in our output: fresh snow, good skiing. Tomorrow we are preparing to descend 1 km below, to rest in Pangboche.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Hello everyone!  Our team moved from Camp 1 (6100m) to Camp 2 (6400m). Everyone feels good. The camp is comfortable. Everest looms right over us. The weather is brilliant today. Tomorrow we will descend to the base camp. And one participant of our team goes through the program "Touching Everest". This is Elina Lazarevskaya.  Tomorrow she goes out with a sherpa and with extra oxygen to Camp 3 (7100 m), touches it and happily flies by helicopter to Kathmandu and home. And on May 2, the "Cats" team comes to us with a guide Artem Rostovtsev.

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

The Masala Team is already in the First Camp. At 6100. With heroic efforts, for 11 honest hours of work, we stumbled into a snow-covered camp. We experienced a lot of stress on the way. When such people climb vertical ropes.  It seems, they have never seen climbing equipment. It's funny when 10 Sherpas pull a woman along the wall on a rope. And she doesn't even help. Moreover, I am sure that in 30 days she will be standing at the summit with the flags of her beloved country and sponsors.  And our camp is great. Even at 6100 we have internet.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the team "We are just tourists!"! Today, after breakfast, a puja ceremony took place, at which the lama and monks recited mantras, burned incense and blessed the ascenders.  Surprisingly, literally immediately after the ceremony, a rainbow appeared over the top of Lhotse! And then a second one appeared over our heads!

After lunch, we held a briefing, where we discussed and approved further plans: tomorrow morning we go to the first camp at 6100, we planned to leave at 4 am. If everything goes according to plan, then the day after tomorrow we will move to the second camp at 6400. We'll be out of touch for a few days.

Wish us good luck!!!

The head of the expedition on Makalu Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from Nepal from the Everest BC (altitude 5300) from the Makalu Minions team! We spent the first night at an altitude of 5,300 in the Everest BC. Slightly swollen. To disperse the blood, we went for a walk around the camp. We went to lunch at the camp of our partners - 14 Peaks. Here we met a lot of friends - including Volodya Kotlyar.  We met the legendary Kami Rita Sherpa - 26 times on Everest. After a delicious lunch, we went to visit our group with Vitya Volodin and Sveta Kotlyar. In their camp, we were given delicious coffee. According to the plan, Victor and his team will go up for a few days for acclimatization tomorrow.

And we're going down to Periche tomorrow. And the day after tomorrow we have to fly into the camp near Makalu.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, the head of the expedition on Makalu, and Israfil Ashurli, the head of the minions, were in touch.

P.S. Alex also conducted a theoretical oxygen lesson.

Hello everyone Massala Team!  The Internet has dropped. But we have a backup channel- pigeons. We write through space pigeons. Yesterday, Lyudmila Korobeshko's Makalu team came to our camp. We made everyone welcome and gave them the Bar for temporary use. There are 11 people in Makalu's Team! In jackets of colors Club 8000. Yellow-black-gray. They entered the camp with a flag, scaring the Yaks. We also visited the camp of the 8000 Club team going to Everest under the leadership of Vitya Volodin. Everyone is very active and positive.

Tomorrow our team goes to the first rotation. Camp 1 - 6100m and camp 2 - 6400m. Everyone is cheerful. Today, according to the plan, there is a lecture on oxygen and a gala dinner. We live like kings in the best camp! The food is varied. There was trout the day before yesterday. King prawns yesterday. It is impossible not to ascend. We have big tents, beds, a bar with a projector. And the best chef there can be.

On April 25, our team held ice classes. All participants showed good readiness.

Greetings from Everest, Alexander Abramov. Lena Abramova. Andrey Selivanov.

The head of the Everest expedition of the 8000 Club Viktor Volodin reports from Nepal:

Today is April 25th.  News from Volodin's group. We spent today in a training style, went out on the glacier and had a good workout on moving the steep ice. We walked along the U-shaped railings and staircases through cracks, after which we carried out analysis and work on errors. The condition of the participants is good, the weather is favorable.

Vitaly Lazo: "Today, on April 24, a Puja ceremony (a ritual of receiving the blessing of the gods) took place at the Base Camp — a monk read prayers for more than an hour. Once upon a time I treated this with a laugh, but when ice discharges occurred near South Annapurna 15 years ago, in which several Koreans died, I began to throw rice towards the future path together with the Sherpas and say: "Om mane padme hum!".

Puja was held, sanctified, we can go to the mountain! Our group will go upstairs tonight. Plan: we go straight to Camp 2 at 6400. Overnight — and climb to Camp 3 at 7100, overnight. On April 27, maybe Anton Pugovkin and I will go higher — from Camp 3 to Camp 4, just one touch — and immediately descend to Base Camp.

Vanya Rodin and Anton Skripachenko will climb up to 6000 meters and immediately go down without spending the night. And Farit will be walking in the lower regions, in the BC area."

President of the 7 Summits Club, head of the Everest expedition Alexander Abramov reports from Nepal:

Masala Team news from Everest. In the morning it was snowing impenetrably. Nevertheless, the puja (opening, consecration of the camp) took place in any weather. They say it's good luck if it's snowing. In the end, everyone smeared themselves with flour and were very happy.  A lot of trekkers come to us. Lena invites everyone to the Bar where we spend most of our time. It's warm and there are board games. And a guitar. And music. And drinks to brighten up a snowy day. We have ice classes tomorrow. And we also wait for Makalu group of the 8000 Club.

Svetlana Kotlyar, manager of the 7 Summits Club and a member of the expedition, reports from Nepal:

Greetings to all from the team "We are just tourists!" of the 8000 Club! We continue to acclimatize at the Everest base camp. Today, the weather did not allow us to hold snow and ice classes, so we were checking and fitting equipment. We remembered the main nodes in mountaineering, conducted an instruction with a demonstration of the use of climbing equipment using jumars for climbing a rope and a descent device.  We discussed the specifics of traveling along the route.