Manaslu(8156) - Page 4

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Sergey Larin reports from Nepal:  A new project “8000. Guide”. It begins with the expedition on Manaslu (8156m) and continues along the list, which, as you know, includes 14 items. The first participants have already arrived in Kathmandu. There are 5 people in the climbing group with me and one person with a permit to the base camp. The climbing permit has just been received. I signed the papers on 10 sheets. It seems that the monsoon has not completely left Nepal yet. Such weather is common for September. But the ascent on Manaslu is carried out at the end of September, Because, despite the abundance of precipitation, it is still warm at altitude and not such strong winds.

Rustam Nabiyev only by the power of their hands yesterday, October 2, climbed one of the highest peaks in the world - the eight-thousand-meter Manaslu! The 7 Summits Club took helped the expedition and received thanks from its leader.

Lyudmila Korobeshko:  Joann Chechnev, the leader of this expedition, sent these photos and information about the ascent today. Our 7 Summits Club helped the team with oxygen and  with some advises  before the trip. To be honest, when Joann in our office asked about Manaslu, I thought it was a very adventurous idea. In addition to the fact that Rustam does not have both legs, the guys did not have the experience of eight-thousanders. But they did the impossible! I am proud and admire! Well done!

 Joann Chechnev sent us (to Alex Abramov) greetings and thanks from the slopes of Manaslu:

Alexander, good evening! Yesterday we climbed on the top of Manaslu. The whole team, in full force. Everything went well. Thank you for your support! Rustam did an incredible thing!

Reportage on television:

Five years ago, Rustam Nabiyev was a paratrooper and served in the city of Omsk. The roof of his barracks collapsed, more than twenty people died on the spot. Rustam lay under the rubble for seven hours, miraculously survived, but lost both legs.

Today, at 7:20, Roman Sudorgin, a member of the 7 Summits Club, climbed the eight-thousandth peak of Manaslu! Roman took part in an expedition organized by our Nepalese partners - the Seven Summits Trek company. As part of the team, he climbed on the top together with two Romanian climbers and four accompanying Sherpa guides. The group is now on the descent. We are waiting for news from the base camp, where there will be good communication.

On September 23, the trail to the top was trampled by the Sherpas of the Seven Summits Trek team. On the 25th, the first group of clients reached the highest point. Roman Sudorgin works as part of the second group of clients. There are now about 200 climbers on the slopes of Manaslu. Among them is a Russian disabled person, Rustam Nabiyev, who has passed acclimatization and now has to go out to storm the summit.

In fact, the Nepalese leadership has different opinions about quarantine measures, and it is possible that we will receive encouraging news from Kathmandu in the near future. There are already exceptions to the rules (the Qatari expedition on Manaslu) and we hope that our authority earned over the years will allow us to claim for the same as well. Now the 7 Summits Club is actively negotiating with the Embassy of Nepal in Russia to get permission to organize an expedition on Manaslu. We are also waiting for the borders to open in October and still recruiting groups for trekking programs. Stay with us and stay optimistic!

From the point of view of science, from the point of view of practice and common sense, before attempting to climb the highest peak of the World, Everest, you need to get some experience of working at extreme heights. That is, simply put, to test yourself by taking part in an expedition to a lower and simpler eight-thousander. This is not only a test of physical capabilities, but also gaining experience  working in the expedition team, just the practice of staying in conditions "close to combat". If you want to participate in the ascent of Mount Everest in 2021, the 7 Summits Club strongly recommends that you take part in our autumn expedition to the eighth highest peak in the World, Mount Manaslu (8156 m). In it, you will get to know the participants of the future expedition to Everest, guides and our irreplaceable partners Sherpas.

Program of ascent on Manaslu in the fall of 2020

The 7 Summits Club decided to support its regular Sherpa workers in difficult times. Due to the lack of work in the spring season, many of them found themselves in a difficult financial situation. And our help came very, very timely. The guys are grateful "from the heart".

 According to information from the head of the 7 Summits Club in Nepal, our good friend Mingma Gelu, the country will be fully open to tourists from August 1. The epidemiological situation in Nepal has long been considered quite favorable for this. It remains only to agree on the air transportation system, rules and procedure for returning to normal life.

 The 7 Summits Club is optimistic about the prospects for the autumn season in Nepal. We have already prepared expeditions to the eight-thousandth Manaslu  and Makalu, which you can still join. And all our traditional programs will be held, including Ama Dablam, Mera peak, Island peak, trekking to Everest Base camp, etc…

 The first public performance of the Nepalese climber Nirmal Purji (easier, Nims) after the completion of his epic project Project Possible (14 eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days) took place in Moscow. The hero of this season came to Russia at the invitation of the 7 Summits Club. About 250 people came to listen to Nims's performance in the lecture hall of the Sport Marathon Travelers Club. The performance of the Nepalese was not long and detailed, he has no right to show part of his materials, because of obligations to sponsors. However, our audience remained completely satisfied. In particular, the fact that Nims devoted a lot of time to joint photographs and signing autographs. He withstood the whole rather big queue and this procedure took about an hour.

   The 7 Summits Club in the person of its President Alexander Abramov handed Nims "Golden Ice ax", so we evaluate his achievement ...

What was Nims talking about?

Nothing is impossible! The main thing in the project was precisely this idea! Show that it is possible. Nims sacrificed his pension,  laid his own house. And normal sponsorship appeared only after the completion of the first, most difficult part of the project.

 But at the same time, he wanted to show that Nepalese can be considered  as leaders in high altitude mountaineering. They consider themselves underrated.

Nims paid special attention to the fact that during the project, his team held four rescue actions. Critically, this could affect success. Especially at the very beginning, when the schedule was broken due to the rescue action at Annapurna.

The most difficult was, of course, Kanchenjunga. It was only the fourth day after the descent from Dhaulagiri. Fatigue was incredible. However, when on the descent, Nims's group found three climbers who were unable to move independently, they were assisted. And of the 40 climbers who were in the nearest camp, no one took part in the action.

Nims also climbed with  supplemental oxygen because there can be different situations on the ascent and often other climbers have to be helped. What would be impossible without additional oxygen.

Before K2 he was worried more than usual. After all, no one was able to get to the top before them. Even very strong teams. Under the mountain there were about a hundred climbers. When they arrived at the base camp, everyone turned to Nims with a question about their plans. He answered - today we drink (alcohol) and no plans. And in the morning his team took the storm of the most formidable mountain.

By the way, during the 16-year service in the elite unit of the English army (the Gurkhas are considered by many to be “the best warriors in the world”) Nims did not drink alcohol at all. But now he believes that it can even be useful in the mountains.

On Pakistan's eight-thousanders, the Nims team had difficulties associated with the work of local porters. Nepalis simply did not like the pace of their movement. Therefore, they carried goods under Broad Peak and Gasherbrum independently.

Nims plans to issue book,  ti finish a film, work in his company Elite Himalayan Adventures, make a new route to Cho Oyu, perhaps for new records ...

And! Collaborate with  the 7 Summits Club and work with our groups. And not only in Nepal!

From an interview with Forbes magazine:

I am not really afraid of anything. But there is an old saying: If someone says, “I’m not afraid of dying,” they must either be a Ghurka or they must be lying. I am a Ghurka (laughs)!

Reinhold Messner, the man of the era who first climbed the eight-thousanders: “Nims, I can see in your eyes - it comes from your soul, from your heart - I think you can do this project.”

 Now we made sure that Messner was right. Nims is a very honest, decent, pure in his goals, strong person in every way, and at the same time he is adequately thinking. We are friends now!

Ludmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and expedition guide:

Hello from Kathmandu! Manaslu expedition the 7 Summits Club completed successfully. Everyone climbed to the top. Yesterday we solemnly handed over certificates for the ascent to the members. Everyone's flying home tonight.

 Several records during the expedition : 1) Irina Zisman – record of Russia  3x8000 for one year. Cho-Oyu, Everest and Manaslu. 2) Ludmila Tolstokorova - the oldest climber on Manaslu from Russia.

Come hear about our Manaslu expedition this Thursday at 19.30 at Malyy karetnyy pereulok, 10!

Hi! Here is Ludmila Korobeshko of Manaslu expedition... Today, September 26, we climbed to the top, all persons - 5 members, 2 guides, 8 Sherpas.  We left the camp at one-thirty and about seven in the morning last part was on the top. We are coming down now. We really want to go down to the Base camp, and a little stretched. The first part is somewhere on the approach to Base camp, and the closing  part is near the third camp. And just now it somehow clouded, the sky clouded and the snow began. But we go well we all have to reach down to the base camp. Details later...

Hello! It is Ludmila Korobeshko from the Manaslu expedition of the 7 Summits Club. So we came to Camp 4. In principle, we are doing well. We walked for a long time, because a lot of snow …

Now we are here -  4 hours 30 minutes local time. The sun came out…

…

We will leave at midnight or 1 am, because a lot of other expeditions, some of them are slow. We will try not to be in the tail, to be somewhere in the middle or somewhere in the beginning.

Everyone feels good. A small intrigue – one of members tries to ascend without oxygen.

The rest of us go with oxygen. The weather is great! Tomorrow morning there will be an assault, keep your fists for us…

 Bye, everyone!

Information from Ludmila Korobeshko. The team climbed into camp 3 at an altitude of 6800 m. There are now 5 members, two guides and 9 Sherpas. Tomorrow we plan to reach the high camp 4 at 7400. And on the night of the 25th to the 26th there should be an ascent to the top of Manaslu. Today, the Sherpa team completed fixing ropes and opened the route to the summit. There is a lot of snow, but the trail is already there.

We wish good luck to our team and look forward to new messages!

23/09/2019

Hi ! This is Ludmila Korobeshko from the 7 Summits Club expedition Manaslu-2019. Today all our team left the Manaslu base camp in the morning.  We went up to the first camp, at 5700. It was a little hard, but in principle, we reached it normally. We were a little tired, but now we are recovering.  We had some soup, and in half an hour we would have supper. So early, because we want to go to bed early. Tomorrow we plan to leave the camp at 8 am in order to go to the third camp. That is, tomorrow we have quite a long climb. First in the second camp and forth - immediately in the third.   We already plan to spend the night in the third camp, that is, at an altitude of about 6700. That is, tomorrow we have about a kilometer to gain again…

Listen to the audio message (in Russian):

Natasha Kartashova, head of Crimean programs of the 7 Summits Club:

 In Crimea, we continue training for high-altitude climbing.  We have three groups at the same time. Mikhail Turovsky, Alex Abramov and Natasha Kartashova try the via ferrata on the Ilyas-Kaya. The route of extraordinary beauty, a series of quite flat sections turns into an overhanging walls. We have to sweat, strong wind knocks down, but we fight!

September 22. Day 20 of the Manaslu expedition of the 7 Summits Club. In the morning we hardly dug up - the whole night it was snowing and by morning the whole camp was covered by 20-30 centimeters.

At breakfast we congratulated Luda Isakova -  Happy birthday!  And then we decided to wait with the start - hoping the snow stops. However, the snow kept falling. Moreover, it turned out that the fixed ropes were not fixed even to the Camp 4. The Sherpas team left in the morning, but turned around before reaching Camp 4.

Taking into account the absence of a prepared route and avalanche danger after snowfall, we decided to postpone the exit for climb for another day.

Greetings from Sergio and Lucy from Manaslu!

 September 21st. 19-day Manaslu expedition of the team of  the 7 Summits Club. This is the last day of rest. In the morning there was a meeting of the leaders of the expeditions.  The company 7 Summits Trek is engaged in fixing ropes. They reported that a team of Sherpas was making their way to Camp 4 today. And tomorrow to the top. However, by the evening it turned out that the team was able to fix only half the way to Camp 4 due to the large amount of snow. Will try tomorrow to fix to L-4.

However, we decided not to delay the exit. We're going to go to camp 1 tomorrow. On 25.09  the same day as previously, planned assault.

In the evening there was a pleasant meeting with our old friends - Lynn and Noel Hannah. They're planning an assault on the 28th.

Our team (now seven to eight) feels good! All our members have regained their strength in Samagaon and are ready for feats.

  Luda Korobeshko, Director of 7 Summits Club and expedition guide from Nepal:

 September 20.  Day 18 of the  Manaslu expedition. This morning the weather has finally pleased us: we saw the blue sky and white Manaslu, waking up in Samagaon.

   We wanted to leave early in the morning, but it turned out that one of the members, Tom, will not be able to continue the expedition. He is still on the descent from the second camp complained about the pain in hand. Looks like it's a sprain. We were hoping he'd get better down the valley. But  the pain only increased.  He had to take painkillers every 3-4 hours, but at night Tom could hardly sleep. In the end, he decided to finish the expedition. We sent him by helicopter to Kathmandu.

  Having overcome 1300 m of a drop in 6 hours, we came to the Base camp which became native already. It is half-buried by snow. Tomorrow our plan is rest. The day after tomorrow, most likely, we go to storm of Manaslu. Plan is the next: 22 September - Camp 1. September 23 - Camp 3. September 24 - Camp 4. September 25 - Summit and descent as low as possible, ideally to BC.

Luda Korobeshko, director of the 7 Summits Club and a guide of the expedition from Nepal:

Hello from Manaslu from Lucy and Sergio! More precisely, greetings from Samagaon, where the day before yesterday we came to rest in the rain and mud, sheltered from showers and snowfalls…

September 18th. We're in Samagaon. Yesterday we sat until the last minute at the Base camp at 4800 in in hope of waiting for the end of rain. Instead, the rain increased, and the snow began to fall again. We could not stand it and after dinner, wearing all the Gore-Tex and polyethylene, rushed downstairs. We almost had to swim across the rivers - at least, wade through almost knee-deep in water. And we had to knead a lot of dirt. Before sunset, hungry, cold, but happy, we reached Samagaon. And here we rest!

In Samagaon we met one of our best Sherpas, an old friend - Pemba. Incidentally, he is the man who took  video of the last jump of Valery Rozov on Amadablam...

Ludmila Korobashko, expedition guide and director of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:

 The days of 12-13-14. 14-15-16 Sep. The second acclimatization rotation.

 On Friday the 13th we decided not to go up, and started for second rotation  on Saturday the 14th. In the morning it rained a little. We reached the First Camp in about 5 hours. Now the Camp 1 is changed. Then dozen of new expeditions came with their tents. It snowed after dinner. But we were already in our big, cozy Red Fox dinner tent, where members of other expeditions tried to sneak in from time to time.

  The next morning we tried to get out early to cross dangerous areas before the slopes melted. We put on avalanche sensors, helmets, quickly gathered, but were not the first.  We had to pass some  group on the road. But on steep sections it was necessary to wait long - a rope upwards was only one. This section from  Camp 1 to  Camp 2 is the most dangerous on the route. There are  a lot of the overhanging cornices and seracs here. It was scary, so we hardly rested. We tried to quickly run through the dangerous areas. So we passed several ladders thrown over crevasses, in some places it was very impressive...

   By lunchtime we reached the Second Camp.  There we had discussed long time, how safely is chosen place for our camp. After all, just in this place a few years ago a big avalanche killed dozens of people.  We went to sleep with avalanche sensors on.

  We woke up at 5am, it was snowing. We quickly gathered to be first on descent. But  after 20 minutes on a steep section we again ran into the Chinese. But in the end, we still quickly descended to the First Camp. There we had breakfast and ran on through rain and snow. By 11 am wet, but happy we rushed to the base camp – to dry off, relax and watch the forecasts...

Lyudmila Korobashko, expedition guide and director of the 7 Summits Club from Nepal:

 Day 11. September 13. Day of next Puja and continuation of global flood.

 The sun finally came out in the morning. And we went to Puja at thr Nims camp. After the Puja, Nims invited us to his camp. He said he was rescheduling his flight to Cho-Oyu for one day. We met his team. Very funny and cool guys. His command operator is very similar to Edmund Hillary in his youth.

 At lunchtime we returned to our camp.

Then the rains came again. But we do not intend to change our plans and postpone the rotation exit. Tomorrow morning we go to the Camp 1, the day after tomorrow to the Camp 2.

Day 9. September 11th. Today in the base camp of  Manaslu  there was a day of amazing meetings.

In the morning Israfil, the most famous Azerbaijani climber, came to visit us. We reminisce our joint expedition to the North Pole, on Denali, Everest. Then came Don Wargowsky, with whom we were together on Denali (now he leads the expedition the Summit Climb). Then we met Arnold Costner, who was a frequent visitor to our EVEREST BC from the North.

 But the main meeting, of course,  was with the hero of this year - Nims (Nirmal Purja), who completes his INCREDIBLE project of 14 eight-thousanders in 7 months. He has 3 peaks left - Manaslu, Cho-Oyu and Shishapangma. And the biggest problem now is Shisha, as Chinese authorities have closed the mountain for climbing this season. Nims hopes for a positive solution to the issue with the Chinese authorities. If not, for Cho-Oyu he is ready to go from Nepal on a more difficult route. But how to deal with Shisha?

 Nims told so many interesting things about himself and his project. For an hour we sat with Israfil in his tent and listened with open mouths. As a result, we invited him to Moscow and Baku. And Nims even agreed....

 And then he came to visit our camp of the 7 Summits Club, where he again told a lot of interesting things and took pictures with the whole group. He also invited us to visit his camp for Puja.