Manaslu(8156) - Page 5

Manaslu. Days 7-8. September 9-10. The first acclimatization rotation outing at 5700 (to camp 1).

The morning of 9 September began with the Puja - blessing of the camp. At 6 a.m. Lama came from a neighboring expedition and began to read prayers. Our Sherpas built a stupa for the Puja. By 8 a.m. all members of the expedition gathered near the stupa. They brought equipment for the consecration and donations.

We lit a fire, the smoke went towards the mountain, which is considered a good sign. Drank the sacred drink and at the end of the ceremony castув tsamps toward the stupa.

About 10 am we left the Base camp. To 12 hours we reached the Crampons Point. Then we put on our crampons and went out on the glacier. There are many crevasses, but all are well marked. Bridges are reliable. The last 200 meters we were given a little hard: three consecutive steps. By the way, this year we put the first camp 150 meters higher than usual. But this place is more beautiful  and secure. And part of the route to the second camp is clearly visible - a somewhat frightening icefall with some overhanging.

 We went from basу camp to first in 6 hours. The vertical drop is about 1000 m. in the evening we measured oxygen (from 65 to 85) - on average, normal. We ate soup with chicken and rice. The first camp we have quite comfortable - there is a dining tent, sleep two in sleeping tents, and even with mattresses. And we allocated to the doctor a separate tent - for his kilograms of medicines. He had already "saved" two members - bandaged sprained wrist and plastered cracked nail.

We didn't sleep so badly. Although almost all had pain in the head, was saved by diacarb and analgesic (with Pentalgin). There were avalanches in the night, but we were almost used to this sound.

In the morning after breakfast we worked with avalanche sensors. Members quickly found everything that Dr. Larin had hidden. And then we all ran down the valley together. We reached the base camp in less than two hours - we really wanted to go to the bath.

Now we wash, rest, gain strength before the second more difficult rotation.

Lyudmila Korobeshko a guide of the expedition:

Day 5. September 7. Manaslu expedition 7 summits Club.

Today we had a day of rest. We spent it at a new altitude - at the Manaslu Base camp at 4700. The bravest part of the expedition - womens - staged bath day. The sun came out before lunch for a moment. And we had time to admire the slopes of Manaslu. But after 12 it started raining, which did not stop until evening. All day long there were avalanches converging to the left and right of our camp.

Tomorrow we are planning an ice training sessions. Day after tomorrow – rotation  in Camp 1 on 5700.

So far, all members feel good.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

 On 4 September the expedition team of the 7 Summits Club on Manaslu arrived in the village of Samagaon and started to acclimatization. The flight from Kathmandu to Samagaon was not easy. The pilots bravely found their way through the fog and low clouds.

After lunch, the team went for a walk to lake Birendra, where the Manaslu glaciers flow. Beautiful place. On the way we visited a Buddhist monastery, where we asked a local monk to play us on a shell, which he did with pleasure.

At the lake we took some pictures with the symbolism of the 7 Summits Club on the background of waterfalls.

Guides: Sergey Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko:

 September 5. This morning we woke up in Samagaon to the shouts of the muleteers. About 100 drivers and mules came to the yard of our loggia. It is a neighboring expedition started supply base camps…

After breakfast we came to the acclimatization rotation to the monastery in the neighboring side gorge. We gained about 500 m on the most beautiful deserted gorge. By 4 PM we went down to the loggia, cooking potatoes, dreaming of…

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club and guide of the expedition, from Kathmandu:

Hello from Kathmandu!  All day today the members of our expedition arrived in Kathmandu. At last we are all assembled. Tomorrow the team flies to Samagaon, on the 3800. There will stay for 3 nights with radial outing in the next valley and then move towards the base camp Manaslu.

Lyudmila Korobeshko, Director of the 7 Summits Club:

Hello from Kathmandu!  From guides of the Manaslu expedition - Sergey Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko. Yesterday we arrived in the capital of Nepal. We met with the Director of our office in Kathmandu Mingma and the staff. Today we have already received a permit. So our expedition is officially approved. Tomorrow 6 climbers  arrive.   And 4th of September, we hope to fly to Samagaon at 3800, where we begin to start our acclimatization. Wish us luck!

The 7 Summits Club is a growing and creative company. We are always open to new ideas and always ready to open new projects. Today we are announcing our project of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders. Our groups will try to deploy the club's flags on all the highest mountains of the world. In the near future we plan expeditions to Manaslu, Everest from the South and North, Lhotse, Makalu, in the summer of 2020 to Gasherbrum-2 and even K2.

Plans of climbing the eight-thousanders by expeditions the 7 summits Club. 2019 -2020

September 2019

 Manaslu (8156), Nepal. The tour-leaders Sergei Larin and Lyudmila Korobeshko.

April – May 2020

Lhotse (8516m) + Everest (8848m) from the South - leader Vladimir Kotlyar.

Makalu (8462m, Nepal) – leader Artem Rostovtsev.

Everest (8848m, Tibet) from the North - leader Alexander Abramov.

July 2020

Gasherbrum II (8035m, Pakistan)

K2 (8611m, Pakistan)

September 2020

Cho-Oyu – leader Sergey Larin.

Our expeditions are served by our well-trained team of Sherpas, proven high-altitude guides and well-trained in the provision of camping services. With the ideal organization of expeditions, members have a great chance to achieve success, to reach the summit. Climb all 14 eight-thousand - no longer a fantastic dream, but it can be quite a real goal.

RD Studio presented yesterday the second part of the documentary from 4 parts "The Man who always wanted more".

 This is the story of a man who on the eve of his 60th birthday decided to climb Everest. But before climbing the highest mountain of the planet, he will climb three peaks in different parts of the world: Kazbek, Manaslu and Ohos del Salado. 

1 hero.

4 mountains.

4 films.

Film 2. "A man who has always wanted more. Manaslu"

Vasily Shakhnovsky was able to climb Kazbek. There will be a jump to 3 kilometers up. Mount Manaslu - the eight-thousand meter peaks of Nepal, one of the 14 eight-thousanders of the world. Unusually beautiful and avalanche dangerous.  The way to the top is blocked by numerous cracks and snow cornices. But the main danger is height. Never before Vasily was not above 8000.

Part 1. Kazbek

Other films RD Studio

 RD Studio will make the continuation of the film " The High-Altitude Gene»...

 The 7 Summits and RD Studio continue their fruitful cooperation. According to the results of expeditions on Everest in 2015 and 2016 RD Studio released the film "The High-Altitude Gene Or How To Get To Everest", which was shown on the main channel of Russian television.

 Our cooperation continues. This fall in the Himalayas we will be shooting the film "The High-Altitude Gene - 2", about oxygen free climbing expedition on Manaslu (8156 m).  The head of the expedition Alexander Abramov. Only Everest climbers will be able to take part in the expedition and filming.  The composition of the climbing group: 7 men and 3 women.

At the same time there will be a group of the 7 Summits Club under the leadership of Sergey Larin.  It will be held according to the standard program of the 7 Summits Club

And about the far-reaching plans: in 2 years we plan to shoot " The High-Altitude Gene -3" at this time on the "Mountain of mountains", the legendary K-2.

Congratulations to coach and guide of our Club Alexey Lonchinsky with a victory in the championship of Russia on mountaineering and a great climb! We also congratulate his teammate Yuri Koshelenko with the same! Yuri also worked as a guide for our programs. We are proud of our friendship and cooperation with outstanding world-class climbers!

October 20, Friday, the 7 Summits Club celebrated its 10th anniversary in the restaurant "Korchma Taras Bulba", at our friend Yuri Beloyvan. The evening passed very quickly and we can't believe we had so much to hear and see. Thank you friends who came to congratulate us! Thanks to those who sent greetings to other types of communication! Thanks to the staff of the restaurant!

Among other things, highlight the following presentations:

1. Opening remarks of Yuri Beloyvan (owner of Korchma Taras Bulba) with a story about his Seven summits and friendship with our Club.

2. The performance of Natalia Smirnova (our permanent participant in the most difficult and interesting, including "pioneering" expeditions) with the story of the campaign under Manaslu.

3. Video clip of our guide Vladimir Kotlyar about climbing Manaslu.

4. Congratulations from our partners and friends from around the world..

5. The performance of our guide and high-altitude doctor all Everest expeditions Sergey Larin with a story about our new project - 14 eight-thousanders. Next summer we organize an expedition to Gasherbrum-II

6. The story of Lyudmila Korobeshko with the announcement of our fall HELICOPTER expedition to the Karstensz.

Video:

And pictures:

From October 14, a large group of 7 summits Club (15 people) goes on a trek around  Manaslu in Nepal. It is noteworthy that our great friend, the legendary Nicholas Cherny person takes part in this expedition. He is Honored master of sports and Senior trainer of the most prominent Russian Himalayan expeditions. And he is the world record holder as the oldest guide, climbed with clients on Everest. In 2009 he was 71 years old.

During the expedition "Around Manaslu" the film-makers will continue shooting the film, tentatively titled "360".

Alexander Tishkov and Andrey Berezin will be expedition guides.

After this expedition, about  a week, two programs  will start:

Trekking to base camp of Everest. The Guide - Andrey Berezin.

Climbing Island Peak with Vladimir Kotlyar.

And then immediately - Climbing Mera Peak with Vladimir Kotlyar.

Alexander Abramov from Nepal: I want to sum up the results of the expedition Manaslu -2017.

It was held in preparation for the expedition Everest 2018. All participants, all 9 people and all the Sherpas in the amount of 8 people (in total 17 people) under the leadership of Alexander Abramov has climbed to the top of Manaslu. The weather was great. For Alexander Abramov  it is the 12th ascent on eightthousander peaks: Manaslu -1 times, Cho Oyu 3 times, Everest 8 times.

Already there are participants in the fall for Manaslu 2018. Also from 1 July 2018, we planned an expedition to Gasherbrum-2 in Pakistan. And in an expedition to Everest 2018, 19 people have already written. Life goes on! As always, the 7 Summits Club is a leader in the organization of expeditions to the mountains 8000+ meters

Expedition Manaslu successfully completed.

View three videos about how it was all...

The second group headed by Alexander Abramov safely descended to the base camp. All the expedition on Manaslu came to an end, with 100 percent success. Congratulations to all participants! Congratulations to the leader and guides! Congratulations to our associate team of Sherpas! Tomorrow the group will descend into Samagaon and then by helicopter to Kathmandu. Waiting in Moscow!

Alexander Abramov from Manaslu slopes: Hello! This is Abramov Alexander. We have already gone down from the top! About six o'clock in the morning, Nepal time, today our second team (Abramov, Igor Smirnov and Zigmunt Berdychovsky) have climbed on the top of Manaslu. Also with us there were two Sherpas - Dorji and Muntuk. Astounding  summit! It all is very beautiful. We have risen directly at the moment when there was the sunrise.

Now seven o'clock in the morning, we have already gone down to the fourth camp, assault camp. Very quickly we gather and we go down. We hope to be in the base camp today. Thus … yet I will tell nothing … congratulate only below. So far we are working at route. So far all participants of our expedition, eight Sherpas and eleven climbers have visited top. Good result? How do you consider? All, so long!

Manaslu peak is a snow cornice, so the total photo can not  be done. On 27 September, the group of the 7 Summits Club was there ...

Alexander Abramov  from Manaslu slopes: Hello! Today at 7-30 in the morning on the Nepalese time, the first group of  the 7 Summits Club, all 12 people, has climbed on Manaslu's top. These are six Sherpas plus Sergey Larin (Head), Volodya Kotlyar, Artem Rostovtsev, Karina Mezova, Alexey Safonov and Vasily Shakhnovsky. All together!  Now they begin descent. Let's not congratulate yet, we will congratulate in the base camp. The second team is climbing up under the leadership of Abramov Alexander. They are Igor Smirnov, Zigmunt Berdychovsky and two Sherpas - now they leave the third camp for  the fourth camp, they go towards to the first team and at night they will make a summit bid. So far the weather (fie, fie, fie) is ideal. All, bye!

Alexander Abramov, head of the expedition to Manaslu, from the base camp:

News of the expedition "Manaslu 2017 – 7 Summits Club".

The secret plan of the ascent is made up. Yesterday Andrei Volkov, Andrey Mareyev and Roman Bryk joined us. They plan to climb Manaslu without oxygen. So, now we have 3 teams. Today the first team of 6 members and 6 Sherpas went to the ascent. Plan: today - camp 1. Tomorrow - Camp 3. The day after tomorrow - Camp 4 and at night – a summit bid. Everyone climbs with oxygen. The group is headed by Sergey Larin.  With guides Volodya Kotlyar and Artem Rostovtsev. The second group goes the same way with one day of displacement. 2 members, one guide (Abramov) and 2 Sherpa.

Today the first group was seeing off.

The weather is damp at the bottom. The first group is already in camp 1. They say there is a sun. Tomorrow we will go to the sun!

Alexander Abramov, the head of expedition to Manaslu, from the base camp: 

Expedition news  of "Manaslu 2017 – 7 Summits Club".

We have endured 2 days of continuous rain in comfortable conditions of the base camp,  with pleasure. We have given training classes in the oxygen equipment. And also we played guitar, dried things.

Today there is a starlit night.

We hope for good weather tomorrow. We will dry up everything and the day after tomorrow we leave on a summit assault…

Our team under the leadership of Alex Abramov has gone down to the base camp after acclimatization exit to the camp 2 on 6300. Here they should wait the bad weather period, and then to decide what to do next. For now you watch video of two previous days …